Yes, you can mark the nut to the pinion and count the treads before you take it off then just return it to that position when you finish the seal replacement.
I have a small fleet of 2500 and 3500 loaded with weight. I had a myriad of front brake sticking problems. The last pad change the mechanic put a NAPA ceramic pad on where we always ran OEM semi-metallic or Wagner HD semi-mets. After changeing hoses, calipers and rotors, I handed the mechanic...
If I check my oil first thing in the morning after sitting all night, my dipstick shows overfilled. If I run it a bit and bring it up to temp and go get gas, if I wait five minutes and check the oil like the owners manual states, I am at the high end of the dipstick. My daughters 2022 Wrangler...
Sometimes when you buy something off of E-bay, the manufacturer of the item you purchase will not warranty the item. Most manufactures only warranty their item when it is sold through their distribution network. You are taking a chance not only on a counterfeit item, but also any warranty...
When my crappy OEM Bosch failed in my GMC, I went with a Delphi. It clearly looked "beefier" and came with a few hang tags, one of which pointed out the use of gold plated connectors as an upgrade. With Delphi being an OEM supplier, I had no reservations putting it in. I have run about 60K...
I have a small fleet of 2500 and 3500 work trucks fully loaded. I had a local shop put Napa ceramics on the first pad change at 30K. I usually insist on OEM or Wagner severe duty semi-metallic for the weight I haul. I chased sticking brakes for the longest time. Replaced calipers, hoses...
I'm with you. i don't grease mine but I do hit it with a shot of WD-40 when I remove to coat the bare metal that the hitch may have left behind and certainly hit it with a shot before I put it in for ease. The ball gets a little dab of whatever grease/heavy oil is around and spread with my...
How much should the labor have been? It sounds like the dealer was trying to be sympathetic to the situation. You could always pay by credit card and dispute the charges. You may get some/all relief that way.
Look at the replacement in your hand and compare where the holes on that starter are and how many and that should lead you to what you are looking for on the started hanging on the truck.
I second that idea. Seal that patina with clear coat and make sure to put a stick shift in it an you can guarantee nobody would look twice to steal, and if they did, they probably couldn't with the stick.
If I won the lottery, the first thing I would do is NOTHING at work but just sit and smile until they fired me. Then I would buy my TRX and take it out west and go big p*i*m*p*'n w/Jay-Z and the boys to see the other side.
It sounds like the dealer did the diagnostics that a good dealer should have done. They ruled out failing plugs and coils and must have checked the valve assembly. The valve assembly not moving enough on a particular cylinder led them to the conclusion that there was a failure with the lifter...
I often pondered that myself. I have never heard of anyone swapping heads and/or motors ever tapping the heads for a beefier bolt. If for nothing else, only the two rear-most that bolt to the y-pipe flange. You can certainly put an equivalent bolt in there of similar grade that shouldn’t pull...
I would change the oil, and only the oil. If it is just the oil, the valve train will stop singing. Its a cheap way of narrowing things down. Remember, the singing is because of metal on metal and you want to prevent this before it becomes a permanent "tic".
Its most likely the oil. Drain the oil keeping the old filter on. Fill with six quarts of fresh oil. If the sound goes away for another 4 kms, then you will know that it was the oil. I can't get more than 2000 mikes out of any PUP before the valve train starts singing.
They are usually an aluminum center with plastic side tanks. The heat cycles kill the plastic and/or gasket that joins the two parts. Not a hard job to replace, but I have always used OEM. Fits right, every time.
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