ball joints

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dartsun

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I have a 1981 Dodge 1/2 ton 2wd..I was wondering what tools ill need to change put my lower and upper ball joints..thanks dustin
 

Redtruck-VA

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My local Advance Auto has ball joint tool kit they loan out. Basically you buy the kit and can bring it back within 30 days and get your money back. Good luck.

Edit: A special socket is needed to unscrew the top ball joint and install the new one. Becareful as it is easy to strip the threads out of the UCA. I had to replace the UCA because the previous owner welded the ball joint in place. If you need specific information send me a PM.
 
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Matteo

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My local Advance Auto has ball joint tool kit they loan out. Basically you buy the kit and can bring it back within 30 days and get your money back. Good luck.

Edit: A special socket is needed to unscrew the top ball joint and install the new one. Becareful as it is easy to strip the threads out of the UCA. I had to replace the UCA because the previous owner welded the ball joint in place. If you need specific information send me a PM.

How are you able to go about telling if you have a threaded ball joint? is it only the top that would be threaded?

I'm betting the ball joints on my '89 D150 (spring suspension) have never been done.
 

Redtruck-VA

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How are you able to go about telling if you have a threaded ball joint? is it only the top that would be threaded?

I'm betting the ball joints on my '89 D150 (spring suspension) have never been done.

I don't know what years have screwed in ball joints, but the 89 does have screw in upper ball joints. The bottom was pressed in. You are probably lucky no one has messed up the threads by beating on them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Ball-...s&fits=Make:Dodge&hash=item2333afdc4f&vxp=mtr
 
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crazzywolfie

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i think you can tell if they are threaded in or pressed in by the shape of the head on them.
 

Redtruck-VA

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How are you able to go about telling if you have a threaded ball joint? is it only the top that would be threaded?

I'm betting the ball joints on my '89 D150 (spring suspension) have never been done.

i think you can tell if they are threaded in or pressed in by the shape of the head on them.

I agree.
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BlindJax

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89 D-150 upper ball joints do screw in or cut threads as you screw them in. Takes a 2-9/64 ball joint socket 20 bucks from auto zone. Looks like a bolt head. I learned the hard way, dodge dealer told me they pressed in.

I have question. I have a 89 D-150 I pressed the threaded uppers out, yep did it twice. so I need to replace the upper control arms and ball joints maybe the bushings if I feel lucky.

I am being told my axle weight is the 4000 lbs so that confused me but have searched and have found so far that the 3000 up and 4000 lbs upper control arms are the same thru 1984 and up to 90 something. The only difference is ball joints and maybe bushings.

Does this sound correct? If so my question is ball joints. I ordered the 3000 lbs ball joints will they work? What determines the rate of a ball joint?

The truck is just a driver, I don't haul much in it. Any help on this would be appreciated.
 

Redtruck-VA

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I'm new at working on my 1st gen, and didn't compare #3000 with #4000 pieces. But when I took my front apart I found the upper ball joint welded to the UCA and the ball joint stud was loose in the upper hole of the spindle. My conclusion was the PO screwed up and used 3000# ball joint and welded it in the UCA then when he assembled the spindle and UCA he found the BJ stud was smaller then the hole and just tightened it all up and call it good. Of course it was all ruined and I had to replace everything.
 

BlindJax

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Doesn't the ball joint stud seat in the spindle hole when you torque it to spec? I'm new at this as well and finding most garages don't know as much as they claim on these older trucks. Sounds more like the cat pressed the ball joint out and didn't want to own up to his mistake because if he did it surely ruined the upper control arm. If I understand ball joints correctly it's all about tensile strength of the ball joint when working with something so close to each other. I bought the 3000 lbs ball joints not knowing gvw difference but learned for this vehicle and manufacture of ball joint it didn't matter they were the same.

I replaced all of my steering linkage and ball joints and cam and caster parts and upper control arms and had the garage align it and now it binds on the pavement like a 4x4 and they can't figure out why on top of them calling it good to go and I can't drive it now. Their fall back is I supplied the parts. so anytime I make a hard turn it binds.

I'm thinking when I put the adjusting sleeves on and tie rod ends in I screwed them in to far. so maybe if I take the right side apart re-thread the sleeve on and then the tie rod end maybe I can back it off.
 

Redtruck-VA

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Doesn't the ball joint stud seat in the spindle hole when you torque it to spec? I'm new at this as well and finding most garages don't know as much as they claim on these older trucks. Sounds more like the cat pressed the ball joint out and didn't want to own up to his mistake because if he did it surely ruined the upper control arm. If I understand ball joints correctly it's all about tensile strength of the ball joint when working with something so close to each other. I bought the 3000 lbs ball joints not knowing gvw difference but learned for this vehicle and manufacture of ball joint it didn't matter they were the same.

I replaced all of my steering linkage and ball joints and cam and caster parts and upper control arms and had the garage align it and now it binds on the pavement like a 4x4 and they can't figure out why on top of them calling it good to go and I can't drive it now. Their fall back is I supplied the parts. so anytime I make a hard turn it binds.

I'm thinking when I put the adjusting sleeves on and tie rod ends in I screwed them in to far. so maybe if I take the right side apart re-thread the sleeve on and then the tie rod end maybe I can back it off.

The ball joint is threaded into the upper control arm and if he pressed out the old one, I'd say he ruined the upper control arm. The ball joint stud as I understand has two sizes, #3000 (smaller) #4000 (larger) diameter stud. If you used the smaller it will easy go in the hole being smaller and no matter how tight you make it, it will still be loose and shortly ruin the taper in the upper hole of the knuckle. Look at some of the pictures I posted earlier. I think if you are not careful you'll end up with the same mess I had.
 

BlindJax

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I'll have to look at the size of the stud. You are right about being threaded or self tapping not sure which as the dodge dealer/Mech told me they were pressed in so I went to bone yard for new ones. That OTC press works wonderfully,lol. Man I hope the guy that advised me on these ball joints was right I hate to add anymore problems. never even dawned on me about the stud diameter seemed tight will look for sure thanks for pointing that out.
 

Redtruck-VA

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I bought a new upper control arm from the dealer and I can definitely say the ball joints are self tap[ng/threading. And I had to also purchase a new knuckle because the top ball joint hole was egg shaped from having the wrong ball joint installed. So good luck getting her right. I too was told by a dealer mechanic that they are pressed in. Goes to show the limits of their knowledge....
 

Redtruck-VA

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It was actually on the alignment rack when we did this work and sitting at ride height when the final tightening was done.
 

BlindJax

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It was actually on the alignment rack when we did this work and sitting at ride height when the final tightening was done.

Thanks, I'm not sure what the shop did but it isn't right and after paying all that money I still can't safely drive it, in fact it went from shop to jack stands and been sitting there till I can grasp the whole alignment and cam and caster. I did go ahead and order the right ball joints, should be here Friday.

I don't understand why the toe is so out and why the tire binds on the pavement like 4x4 on sharp turns. Could I have the adjusting sleeves in backwards? pretty sure caster is set wrong, Caster bolts won't move once you set them? so you can tighten them later on?
 

Bear79

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The upper ball joint is screwed in, not pressed. No other choices. For the lower there is a press in and a screw in. Moog press in is k7025 and screw in is ki727. Easy to identify. The screw in will have 4 flats on it. If somebody tack welded them then they must have been loose. The ball joint stud not being tight is caused by the castle nut not being tightened or the tapered hole was deformed from a loose tapered stud. This website will help for you to see the options are concerning the ball joints: http://http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/products/dodge_d150_1989
 

Rustycowl69

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as to putting the wrong size ball stud ball joint, it should never get so far. When you first open the ball joint package, the FIRST thing you do is trial fit the stud in the knuckle/spindle hole. Not just to make sure it is the right ball joint, but to make sure the female tapered hole it fits into is not damaged or enlarged. Not only is it supposed to fit tight taper to taper, but there is supposed to be a couple of threads below the nut surface (in the hole) to allow for stretch and drawing the tapers together.If you don't the tapers will not lock together properly, you'll probably have trouble achieving proper torque on the nut. If you suspect the female taper isn't correct, you can check the fit with Prussian Blue. I hesitate to advise you can overcome the thread length issue by using a GR8 STUD washer (sometimes supplied with the ball joint) under the nut. This strategy is not a cure all for damaged taper holes, it's only used when the taper is true, but just slightly oversize.
 

crazzywolfie

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people really need to looks at date on the post. the original post is over 2 years old and the last post in this thread before today is still about 8 months ago.
 

Rustycowl69

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date doesn't make it any less true. it''s still a thread that can be searched and recalled. it's too late for OP, but it can still help someone now or in the future. Isn't that the point of this forum. "Am I wrong", as Walter Sobchak would say.
 
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