5.7 Swap into D150 Completed

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crazzywolfie

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heater hoses never usually clog. i would personally just pull the hose and check the heater core to see if it is clogged and run some water through it.
 

Rustycowl69

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The heat occasionally kicks in, sometimes for a minute and sometimes for 5 minutes, but then goes away again, while I'm driving. This intermittent behavior sort of rules out a water pump doesn't it?

I removed the thermostat plug and tapped the thermostat itself with a screwdriver handle to see if it's stuck but still no change. Both heater hoses are not clogged also.

the only way I know to positively check the thermostat is to remove it. put in a pan of water on the stove top, and slowly heat the water up to near boiling. You monitor the temp with a good thermometer and check to make sure it is opening at the temp stamped on the tstat.
When you reinstall the tstat, make SURE. you install it with the engine side of tstat into engine side of tstat housing.
 

crazzywolfie

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or he can probably hook up scan tool to the computer to see what temp the engine is running at according the the computer but even then the thermostat would be having to practically stick open to for no heat at all to come out. i know of my 93 heat starts coming out at about 140 and just starts getting better the higher it gets.
 
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Yoox_II

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After spending some time looking around, I noticed I was wrong before when I said both heater hoses are cold. The one returning to the water pump is cold but the one leading from the pump to the firewall is warm.
-there is a faint smell of coolant when I'm at a red light with the blower on
-i hear a new rattling sound behind the glove box that was never there before

I'm pretty much convinced it's either a broken heater core or maybe just a broken connector which disconnected the heater core from the wiring. Now here's my question...
My truck doesn't have any of the dashboard vents, it must have been a lower trim line. It's an 84. Will I be able to remove only the glovebox to access the heater core or do I have to remove the entire dashboard? It's way below freezing here now and I don't have a garage to work inside so I'm hoping to be able to get away with just removing the glove box for a semi-quick fix of this issue
 

crazzywolfie

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with dodge trucks there is only 2 setups. the trucks with a/c which got the fancy dash vents and the trucks without a/c which didn't get the vents. to replace the heater core you don't need to completely remove the dash but it is a pain. you need to take the whole heater box out to replace it. you can loosen the bottom of the dash and take the whole heater box out. i think they thing you will likely fight with most is the clips that hole the control cables to the top of the heater box. once you get it disconnected and unbolted the rest is not too bad to get out and back in.
 
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Yoox_II

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That's a good help, thank you. I was looking on some forums trying to find a step by step guide to removing the heater box but can't really find one. is coolant going to flood behind my dash once I remove the hoses from the heater box?
 

crazzywolfie

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well if you disconnect the heater core and blow some air through the heater core then the amount of coolant that you may spill in the cab would be minimal
 
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Yoox_II

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Hey guys, took me a while but I found the very unfortunate cause of my coolant issue. Looks like my 2012 hemi has a cracked head... I'm getting this confirmed on this coming Tuesday at a rad shop, they're going to test to see if I have exhaust gases present in the coolant. But all signs are pointing to this unfortunately. I have been getting white smoke so I've grounded the truck until they check it Tuesday. :(
 
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Yoox_II

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I'm looking for a second opinion with this tragedy of a cracked head. Let's assume it will be confirmed it's a cracked head (I put brand new head gaskets in during the engine swap) so it's not the gaskets. Is it worth getting the cracked head repaired, or should I replace? Money IS definitely a factor for me unfortunately.
 

crazzywolfie

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your best to talk with a machine shop or maybe the 3rd or 4th gen section to get there opinion on what it would cost to repair vs what it would cost to just replace. i don't know if the heads on those engines were prone to cracking like the magnum heads or not.
 

usaf2006

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I haven't heard of any head cracking in the third gens, or fourth gens.
 
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Yoox_II

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Confirmed: cracked cylinder head, passenger side. Unfortunately I do not have the money for a new one, or a different hemi.
 

usaf2006

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Ugh that sucks man... hopefully you get it fixed soon.
 
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Yoox_II

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Gonna look for a pair of refurbished heads and hope for the best. I am really hoping the bottom end of the engine isn't too soft from the overheating it experienced. If anyone finds a set of 2009+ heads for a good price, let me know! I live in Canada, by the way
 

crazzywolfie

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i don't know for sure but i think the bottom ends are usually not effected by overheating. if anything the heads are what are mainly effected. i also have not heard of those heads cracking but i have heard of people overheating the engines and having a valve seat drop and destroy a piston and head.
 
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Yoox_II

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I can get remanufactured heads from a 2011 for $375.00 a piece. Really really hoping this solves the problem and that more deeper damage was not done. I will also be investing in an engine temperature gauge...
 

crazzywolfie

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i don't know if the intake has a spot for another temp sensor. did you hook up the stock temp gauge when you installed the hemi? only reason i ask is the stock sending unit would likely work with most aftermarket gauges. i know i hooked a aftermarket temp gauge in my 93 and just took the wire from the stock gauge and hooked it to the aftermarket one and it has worked perfectly so far.

and since you got everything apart you may want to consider checking the heater core to see if it is clogged.
 
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Yoox_II

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Removed both cylinder heads and turns out that one was severely warped, and the other was slightly warped. No cracks. So I got them machined at an engine shop and they're being reinstalled now. Crisis averted!? Still somewhat expensive though.
 
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Yoox_II

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I took the truck on its first long drive over the weekend, it was 449km and I used 99 liters of fuel. That converts to 22L/100km or 11MPG. Not great compared to a modern truck, but that's because I only have 3 gears, so it's actually better than I was guessing, more like 7-8mpg. I averaged 120-130 kph so it was revving fairly high compared to if I had another gear or two. All in all was very satisfied with it!
 

TylerB

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Awesome build! Considering you've only got three gears then your gas mileage is not bad at all.

My one suggestion is to avoid the 545 trans like the freaking plague, especially if durability and longevity are your goal. Definitely go with a 518/46RH if a trans swap is your future.
 
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