6.4L Oil and MS-12633

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Andrew09HEMI

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Id agree that most would be fine, but Im almost certain this MS-12633 has something to do with the oil and its state under heavy load/temp.
 

SyN

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One thing I want to say: After viewing 2 VOA of the SRT 0W-40 as well as more then a handful of UOA it shows to be one of weakest 0W-40 oils. It's additive package is some what weak compared to RL/M1/Castrol. It only has a excess of Tri-Nuclear Moly! Which is a plus! It has shown to shear down to a 30wt really quick!

It's nothing special! Shell really needs to spend some more time with the additive package.
Within the Hellcat/SRT forums: Many of the owners have jumped ship and have started running M1/Castrol 0W-40. Some have began running T6 5W-40.

For the normal 6.4L driver the SRT 0W-40 will serve/protect the motor well. If I was working that motor most of the time? I believe there are better options out there @ a lower cost!

Looking at both VOA 7 months ago the PUP 5W-30 actually has a more robust additive package then the SRT 0W-40 . The SRT only has more Moly!

This is only my thoughts/opinions through my own research. The SRT 0W-40 is a decent oil for your 6.4L. I just believe there are more robust oils out there.
 
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RAM_Designs

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One thing I want to say: After viewing 2 VOA of the SRT 0W-40 as well as more then a handful of UOA it shows to be one of weakest 0W-40 oils.
I noticed this when I was running it and draining it.

Some have began running T6 5W-40.
I did this before my most recent M1 fill. I had some leftover Redline 10w-40 so I did a 4/3 combo with the T6/Redline. I liked that much better than the 5/2 I did the the M1/Redline.
 
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HS-LD

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One thing I want to say: After viewing 2 VOA of the SRT 0W-40 as well as more then a handful of UOA it shows to be one of weakest 0W-40 oils. It's additive package is some what weak compared to RL/M1/Castrol. It only has a excess of Tri-Nuclear Moly! Which is a plus! It has shown to shear down to a 30wt really quick!

It's nothing special! Shell really needs to spend some more time with the additive package.
Within the Hellcat/SRT forums: Many of the owners have jumped ship and have started running M1/Castrol 0W-40. Some have began running T6 5W-40.

For the normal 6.4L driver the SRT 0W-40 will serve/protect the motor well. If I was working that motor most of the time? I believe there are better options out there @ a lower cost!

Looking at both VOA 7 months ago the PUP 5W-30 actually has a more robust additive package then the SRT 0W-40 . The SRT only has more Moly!

This is only my thoughts/opinions through my own research. The SRT 0W-40 is a decent oil for your 6.4L. I just believe there are more robust oils out there.

I know what your saying here is somewhat anecdotal, but I have to admit my gut feelings with a few hours of internet surfing kinda made me think along the same lines, hence why I started the thread in the first place.

My hunch is that the Castrol 0w40 made in Belgium and a true group 4 synthetic is a better bang for the buck, and easier to obtain than the PUP. I'll let you all know if I was right 10 years from and 120,000 miles later... :)
 

Hootbro

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One thing I want to say: After viewing 2 VOA of the SRT 0W-40 as well as more then a handful of UOA it shows to be one of weakest 0W-40 oils. It's additive package is some what weak compared to RL/M1/Castrol. It only has a excess of Tri-Nuclear Moly! Which is a plus! It has shown to shear down to a 30wt really quick!

It's nothing special! Shell really needs to spend some more time with the additive package.
Within the Hellcat/SRT forums: Many of the owners have jumped ship and have started running M1/Castrol 0W-40. Some have began running T6 5W-40.

For the normal 6.4L driver the SRT 0W-40 will serve/protect the motor well. If I was working that motor most of the time? I believe there are better options out there @ a lower cost!

Looking at both VOA 7 months ago the PUP 5W-30 actually has a more robust additive package then the SRT 0W-40 . The SRT only has more Moly!

This is only my thoughts/opinions through my own research. The SRT 0W-40 is a decent oil for your 6.4L. I just believe there are more robust oils out there.

Trying to get educated here but what in your opinion makes PUP 0W-40 a weak additive pack?

Also as you stated on the SRT forums, what exactly is making some go to another oil? Is there increased wear for them and if so, is there examples of this?
 

RAM_Designs

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Trying to get educated here but what in your opinion makes PUP 0W-40 a weak additive pack?

I'm not sure about the details of the add pack myself, but I do remember that the oil shears down to a 30wt pretty easily, since it is already a very thin 40wt oil.

I don't like thin oil.
 

Hootbro

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I'm not sure about the details of the add pack myself, but I do remember that the oil shears down to a 30wt pretty easily, since it is already a very thin 40wt oil.

I don't like thin oil.

Yeah, I got three oil analysis and aware of the shearing. That does not bother me. Nothing shows elevated wear because of it for me. If anything, it reinforces to me use of a good 5W-30 is not a issue.

Just wonder why the some of the SRT guys are moving away from it but I am sure they run their engines a bit harder especially if they track it.
 

HvyDuty

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I've been running Castrol 0w-40 since my first oil change. Immediately noticed more quiet cold start up. Tow a 30 ft 8k travel trailer regularly. No CEL, no issues.

Like has been said on here, my Hemi really woke up at around 10k miles.

I get my Castrol 0w-40 from Amazon shipped to my door for about the price of any other synthetic oil. IMO it is a steal.
 

SHOOT2KILL

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Looking for opinions on mixing 0w30 with 0w40 PUP...I read in this thread that the 0w40 breaks down to a 0w30 very quickly in it's life...Or is anyone using straight 0w30 full syn, and what have been the results. Reason I ask...Found CLEARANCE PRICED 0w30 full syn @ Autozone for $2.00 a qt...I don't mind experimenting with my next oil change...5 qts 0w40...2 qts 0w30...What do you think.........
 

Hootbro

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Looking for opinions on mixing 0w30 with 0w40 PUP...I read in this thread that the 0w40 breaks down to a 0w30 very quickly in it's life...Or is anyone using straight 0w30 full syn, and what have been the results. Reason I ask...Found CLEARANCE PRICED 0w30 full syn @ Autozone for $2.00 a qt...I don't mind experimenting with my next oil change...5 qts 0w40...2 qts 0w30...What do you think.........

I would say either run with a full 0W-30 or 0W-40 fill than mix. While all API rated oils are mix compatible, you might not get the best benefit if of either depending on chemistry make up between the two weights.

Those that mix with any seriousness, do so staying with the same brand of oil between the two weights and not different brands.

Having run 5W-30 in my 6.4L, I would have no problem running a full 0W-30 if needed.
 
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HS-LD

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Yeah, I got three oil analysis and aware of the shearing. That does not bother me. Nothing shows elevated wear because of it for me. If anything, it reinforces to me use of a good 5W-30 is not a issue.

Just wonder why the some of the SRT guys are moving away from it but I am sure they run their engines a bit harder especially if they track it.

Kinda makes you wonder if the Chrysler engineers knew that the 0w40 PUP shears and could have spec'ed the 5w30 instead... The 0 is for the MDS maybe? But didn't the original 5.7's with MDS spec 5w30?

I fully believe that the new MDS and oil system in the 6.4 requires synthetic and API SN. After that, I don't the rules are that hard and fast.

I'm happy with the Castrol. My 6.4 is happy and quiet. I have no idea what the MPG's are as I've been in 4x4 about 90% of the time since I picked it up 3 weeks ago! :crazy: I do know that I get about 10.5 MPG's at 20 mph in 4x4. :)

Trucks a beast. Neighbor got stuck in his AWD Escape at the corner last night, I backed up into the drift to turn around that he was stuck on the edge of and then pulled him out through the drift...about 2 1/2 feet deep. I was even impressed and I've been wheelin' for 25 years.

I actually had to go easy and gentle I was afraid I was gonna rip his Escape apart.
 

MN-Ram

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My 2011 1500 with the Hemi had Mobil1 5W-20 its whole life.
 

Skrap

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So, I ask to use an oil that doesn't meet spec per FCA because it will save me $3/quart over the recommended brand. With three oil changes per year that is a savings of around $63. If I can't afford an additional $63/year then I have no business buying a $35K-$50K truck. The **** people come up with (excuses) and their reasoning boggles my mind sometimes.
 
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HS-LD

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So, I ask to use an oil that doesn't meet spec per FCA because it will save me $3/quart over the recommended brand. With three oil changes per year that is a savings of around $63. If I can't afford an additional $63/year then I have no business buying a $35K-$50K truck. The **** people come up with (excuses) and their reasoning boggles my mind sometimes.

I think it's pretty clear that this aint about the price, at least for me. I think it's also been shown that the spec PUP is probably not as good as some of the other non-spec'ed options through analysis.

Now if you know exactly what MS-12633 says...
 

coobie

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So, I ask to use an oil that doesn't meet spec per FCA because it will save me $3/quart over the recommended brand. With three oil changes per year that is a savings of around $63. If I can't afford an additional $63/year then I have no business buying a $35K-$50K truck. The **** people come up with (excuses) and their reasoning boggles my mind sometimes.
Not everybody pockets are DEEP..Me I use 0w-40 redline syn.with 10-48 royal purple filters.My pockets are DEEP.laffin:roflsquared:
 

SHOOT2KILL

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So, I ask to use an oil that doesn't meet spec per FCA because it will save me $3/quart over the recommended brand. With three oil changes per year that is a savings of around $63. If I can't afford an additional $63/year then I have no business buying a $35K-$50K truck. The **** people come up with (excuses) and their reasoning boggles my mind sometimes.

Your forgetting about the additional $10,000.00 worth of snowplowing/salting equipment on the truck...Waaay more than the $50k you assumed...0w40 PUP around here is $10.00 per qt...Castrol Edge & Mobil 1 are almost the same $...So every dollar I save is more I can slip into your wifes garter belt when I go see her at the **********...:love51:
 

HvyDuty

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So, I ask to use an oil that doesn't meet spec per FCA because it will save me $3/quart over the recommended brand. With three oil changes per year that is a savings of around $63. If I can't afford an additional $63/year then I have no business buying a $35K-$50K truck. The **** people come up with (excuses) and their reasoning boggles my mind sometimes.

LOL, well I just don't like being ripped off... German Castrol 0w-40 is better for less $ and easier for me to get. But hey, it's your money to waste :favorites13:
 

Skrap

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Hey, all you fellas can use what you want to use and whatever make your dyck hard. I will use what if recommended by the factory so I have no issues if something goes south on the engine. It is also why the local Ram dealer does all my oil changes. All you you probably read the thread this week about the guy with condensation in his headlight. Ram said it was normal/within spec and did nothing for him. You really think if your engine has a problem that could have been caused but using a "non spec" oil they will just ignore that little nugget of info? probably not and you will be on here ******** about how FCA doesn't back their **** up.
 
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HS-LD

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Hey, all you fellas can use what you want to use and whatever make your dyck hard. I will use what if recommended by the factory so I have no issues if something goes south on the engine. It is also why the local Ram dealer does all my oil changes. All you you probably read the thread this week about the guy with condensation in his headlight. Ram said it was normal/within spec and did nothing for him. You really think if your engine has a problem that could have been caused but using a "non spec" oil they will just ignore that little nugget of info? probably not and you will be on here ******** about how FCA doesn't back their **** up.

Everybody has their issues... Me personally I would NEVER EVER let a dealer (or anyone else) change the oil in my truck. I do it myself, I know it's done to my satisfaction. (I would say properly, but I'm using Castrol Edge 0w40 and you would think that's crazy.) We all pay are money and take our chances and we all are comfortable taking different chances.


The dealer replaced my headlight under warranty on my 2012 Cummins because the back tab broke off. The replacement was slightly different cosmetically so they ordered the other one for me under warranty too. If I were that guy I'd find another dealer.
 

Hootbro

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Hey, all you fellas can use what you want to use and whatever make your dyck hard. I will use what if recommended by the factory so I have no issues if something goes south on the engine. It is also why the local Ram dealer does all my oil changes. All you you probably read the thread this week about the guy with condensation in his headlight. Ram said it was normal/within spec and did nothing for him. You really think if your engine has a problem that could have been caused but using a "non spec" oil they will just ignore that little nugget of info? probably not and you will be on here ******** about how FCA doesn't back their **** up.

Thanks for sharing but I do not think anybody was trying to talk you out of not using a spec'd oil nor was anybody not understanding the risks of not using a spec'd oil.
 

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