Slow brake pedal return

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991500quad

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5.2 318
I am new to this but need some help. I have a 99 1500 quad cab with a 318 and a manual transmission I have recently been experiencing slow brake pedal return (anywhere from 2-8 seconds). After a little research and $250, I still have the same problem.

What I have done;
-I replaced;
Power booster
Master cylinder
Vac. hose from intake to booster
-I bled the brakes )furthest from the MC to the closest
-lubed the pivot the brake arm is attached to
-scratched my head.

Some reading was telling me the booster was bad so that is why I replaced that. a little more reading and locals said it sounded like a bad MC so I replaced that. What clued me onto this was braking at a stop sign, letting off and seeing my trailer brake controller was on (normally is when brakes are applied). Thinking this was odd, I lifted the brake pedal with my foot to see if the light would go off and it did. I remembered my parents had the same issue on their 99 durango but don't remember what fixed it.

Never the less, over the last few weeks, I have dealt with the pedal slowly returning but enough is enough, I want it fixed. Camping season is coming, as soon as the snow melts.

A few people have said to adjust the light switch but that wont speed the pedal return up and others have said a spring but again, something must be wrong for the pedal to act like this.

I have recently read something about the the rear brake pistons????? is this a sign of worn brake shoes in the rear??

Like I said this was a sudden issue. One day all was well and the very next the problem started.

Please help me out folks. I know there is a lot of great info out there and surely someone has experienced this before me. Funny thing is all the Dodge dealerships, Les Schwab and other brake repair shops have all said either they have never seen or heard of this or it is common for the Dodge brake pedal to return slow. They don't understand when I tell them this is just no occurring which is why I was calling.

I am not afraid of getting a little dirty to replace something if need be, just not excited about dumping more money into something that might not fix the issue.

Thanks all!!!
 

dodge dude94

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Never had that issue but I have had pretty much my entire braking system replaced.

I had a bad MC, went to the shop, and ended up going through 2 more MCs before a new one was purchased and installed. So a reman MC being bad isn't out of the running.

My truck failed the brake test during inspection one year, so I had a new booster installed, passed inspection and brakes felt better. However, when I got the plenum replaced later that same year, my pedal feel was even more better after that. You should also pull your drums and make sure the linings aren't worn and your wheel cylinders aren't leaking. The rear brakes contribute hugely to pedal feel.


Hope you get it figured out and welcome to RF.
 
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991500quad

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I will check the rear brakes this weekend. That is the last part to check that I haven't touched besides when I bled them. Thanks for the info. I'll let you know if it works.
 
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991500quad

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I checked the rear brakes, they are still in good shape and the wheel cylinders and great with no leaks. Any more ideas?
 

leadrofthepak

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Even though the rear brake cylinders can appear to be leak free and fully functional, once removed you may find that they have no recoil to them at all. Both rear brake cylinders on my truck were like that when I bought it, dry as a bone and looked fine but once I took them out they were sloppy and dead, maybe blocked up or something. Word of caution: use a generous amount of penetrating oil on the line fitting if you are going to replace them. Replacing the lines is less than fun... at least from my perspective. I would also opt to replace the drum hardware as well, while you're in there and all.
 
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991500quad

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Yes everything was adjusted great. I have read about the nightmares replacing the cylinders. I am going to do a little "tweeting" on the push rod on the booster first. Seems like the easier of the two. If all else fails, I will spend the few bucks on the cylinders. Will keep you all updated as I go.
 
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991500quad

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Well guys and gals I have put new wheel cylinders in, re bled the brakes and every thing is alittle better by not fixed. If I use full brake the pedal is somewhat normal but not snappy. If I apply very little brake the pedal takes about 3-4 seconds to return about 1" of travel. I am at a loss with no more stuff to replace. I need more ideas and help please!!!
 

leadrofthepak

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I have never had to dive into the brake system of my Ram this deep. Do we have a proportioning valve and if so could that be a potential culprit for this problem? Sorry bro, I am trying to think of possible solutions.
 

Merc225hp

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^^^ Yes we do have a proportioning valve on these trucks, we also have a **** poor ABS system as well. I would start by replacing all the soft lines and go from there.
 

Jamarctatum

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Did you ever figure it out? I'm having the same problem. New Mc, new hydro boost, 2 calipers, new brake lines front, new pads and rotors front, adjusted brake light switch and bled the entire system.
 

peboiteau

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I'm also interested... have the same problem.
Question: When you replaced the hydroboost, have you also replaced the spring between the hydroboost and the MC?
 

KianaReed

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Wow, no final answer on the problem?

Unfortunately my GF's truck is going throgh the same problem...

So her brother who is going to school to be a mechanic and graduated replaced her front disc pads. (01 1/2 ton extended 5.2)

However she starts having braking problems. I find the reservoir empty, top it off and one of he bleed valve was either cross threaded or just completely coroded to the point that I couldn't loosen the valve.

So I will buy a new caliper and go from there, because she lives so far away I can't easily work on it especially being the winter in Alaska. Have to find a garage/shop. Anyone in Anchorage, Alaska able to help a guy & girl out? I would provide the tools, just need a shop.
 
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