1211 vs 1223V

billyw said:

The spacer only got me to about 1/2" above stock over all. With the load, I'm right at stock height on the right, and 1/2" below on the left. Dunno why they're different, but the left has been a little lower than the right since the "upgrade". Are OEM springs calibrated for the fuel tank on the left side?

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Yes they are.


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Not to stir the pot, but I went with the Icons and they are great.

HowBoutDemPhillies said:

Not to stir the pot, but I went with the Icons and they are great.

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2009 - Current Dodge Ram 1500 Rear Coil-Springs - 1.5" lift - ICON Vehicle Dynamics

those?

Not going for lift also have some junk in the truck thats going to suck up the softer than stock first rate of the coil.

I'm sure they are just dandy for your application.

Fronts look pretty great.


Seriously has nobody got 1211 besides that one guy?

goodguy11 said:

Anyone think I could run the 1211s with a rough country lift?


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Dodge Suspension Lift Kits | Rough Country Suspension Systems®

which did you have in mind? With that in mind Rough country doesn't make anything that interests me. I don't add spacers to my shoes i'm not going to start on the truck.

full length coil lift or bust.

Cardhu said:

Dodge Suspension Lift Kits | Rough Country Suspension Systems[emoji768]



which did you have in mind?

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I currently have the 4inch installed on my truck


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goodguy11 said:

I currently have the 4inch installed on my truck


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Are you intending to add the 1211 spring with the rear spring spacer installed.

Is it currently nose high? Got an instruction link? Is that a 2 inch spacer? website isn't very specific.

Cardhu said:

Are you intending to add the 1211 spring with the rear spring spacer installed.

Is it currently nose high? Got an instruction link?

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Yes I would leave the rear spacer in. The truck currently sits dead level with the lift kit


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goodguy11 said:

Yes I would leave the rear spacer in. The truck currently sits dead level with the lift kit


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while i'm still waiting on final post sag heights for 1211;

If they 6 inch guys don't have vibs or pinion angle issues then the 2 inches max you would expect shouldn't be an issue. shock length might be a concern.

1223V's will definately fit but you might be nose high.

Your other option that you didn't ask for would be to remove the spacer and put in 1223's. It will be stiffer.
The aforementioned icons also seem possible.

Got a PM from Cableguy HD as in the OP in this thread on 1211's
http://www.ramforum.com/f119/new_shocks_springs_ordered_more_info_come-60009/index2.html

based on his measurements and what was recorded in his thread and his new tire size; ride height is up about 0.25 of inch after breakin.

seems like a reasonable amount of settlement fresh (+0.375) vs broken in (+0.25). He is running Airlift 1000's but were empty.

Thanks for playing. Thought i'd close the loop on this.

Cardhu

Good to hear you found the answers on those 1211s, 1/4" lift is really nothing.
Iam going with the 1223s the 1" to 1.5" lift after I do the fron 2.5" lift should keep me with a small amount of rake.

I have been looking at these 1223s and now have seen two different sites stating they offer 2" to 4" of lift , I had not seen this stated on web sites before.
going to order the 1211s tomorrow and have a 1" spacer on the way so after I lift the front 2.8 I will still have a rake on it. My truck sets at 36" front and 39" rear.
2" to 4" is too much of a spread 4" would be to much for me.
I like the level look but once a trailer is on you lose that and go nose up which I dont like.

Finished install on TTC 1211's yesterday... and bilstein 5100

This mornings measurements are (stock-> 1211= net)
LR fender 38 1/4 -> 38 3/8 = +1/8"
LR wheel center to fender 22 7/8" -> 23 1/4" = +3/4"

RR fender 38 1/2 -> 38 7/8 = +3/8"
RR wheel center to fender 23 1/4 -> 23 5/8 = +3/8"

2 inch receiver upper inside lip 20 1/4 -> 20 5/8 = +3/8"

Springs are new and have ~15 KM on them, will drop after break in. They are stiffer...like a truck. I assume the disparity from each side is fuel.

NB: taking out the wheel liner to change shock bolts is stupid, almost as stupid as putting a nut on the inside upper bolt that should be welded in there. Apparently I need more tools and this is my trucks way to tell me.