So....If I want to save 500 for payload for 2 kids quads in the bed of the truck, using the slider tool on the Ram Trucks towing website, I need to slide the slider to at least 1000 lbs of payload? 500 for quads, 500 @ for tongue weight?
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yes, essentially. You need to use the slider to estimate how much additional payload you will be using beyond the passenger selection. Be warned though- this is absolutely where I got burned. Ignore your maximum tow capacity. it's only a guideline- your payload (cargo carrying capacity) of the Ram will dictate how heavy your trailer can be. Historically- I used to use the equation 75% (plus or minus) of max towing was a safe bet given the average payload of a half ton. I also used the formula "wheelbaseinches/5=maximum trailer length in feet". This is an old school shade tree estimating formula, but it's actually pretty accurate. If you look at the attached screensnap when I did these calculations before I ok'd them to get me the Laramie I have- the site SAYS 1260lbs payload. And, truth be told- when I did a VIN lookup (the dealership that we brought the truck in from was nice enough to provide that for me to actually do this research) it listed it as 1280lbs! Then, if you notice, I added 5 passengers at 150lbs each (not accurate, but good enough for me since I use these numbers more for mechanical handling than legality where I am). Now- look at the remaining payload available. 666lbs. Enough for my tongue with change, or so I figured at least, and that is perfectly acceptable. The designed ratings are in place to tell you the truck is designed to run at those ratings all day every day for it's lifetime. Then, afterwards- I did the math. 750lbs passenger weight and 666lbs remaining does not equal 1260lbs. It equals 1416. So that tells me the 155 lbs is already included for the driver. Cool
But... when the Laramie arrived, I QUICKLY realized that the slider is completely full of ****! I then looked at a spreadsheet available online. The payload then states 1150lbs. I understood- I lost a bit for the Ram box, but still something I would consider acceptable- a small overage doesn't bug me. I ran my F150 over many, many times at 400lbs or more when I was towing and I never even noticed nor cared. But it was a SOLID truck with a massive frame and an additional leaf in the pack and rotors the size of a small dinner table. Not saying the Ram isn't, but I haven't towed with it yet, nor loaded the crap out of it, so I am just not sure how it will handle compared to the much heavier Ford. But my available payload according to my door sticker is still less than the 1150lbs! WTF?
So, basically- the ONLY way to calculate what payload you have available without actually hitting a scale is this:
Look at your door sticker with the tire load info. It will give you a figure stating what the maximum weight cargo and occupants should not exceed. This is the available payload you have as it left the factory with the options you have including a tank of fuel and all fluids and a 150lbs driver (although I have gotten different answers on that too). This is the number you need. Now, from that number, subtract the weight of your passengers, tongue and anything else you will carry in or on the truck. This is the number you have to work with. As an example:
550lbs passenger load (150lbs driver included just for figures)
700lbs tongue weight
500lbs quad
200lbs misc crap in the bed
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1950lbs payload. Meaning your curb weight of your truck should not be more than 4850lbs or you are technically "over" your tow vehicle (Ram) GVWR.
Is that less than your sticker? If so, awesome! I suspect not though. I for one am running well over my payload rating. This slider is going to haunt me, and pissed me right off since the only option I added was the rambox which accounts for 110lbs. All the other "goodies" are included in the Laramie package. So, as far as I am concerned, I am going to run it because I have no accurate numbers to go on because it seems that ram can't get it's **** together on anything relating to this. I know my scale weight, but with what I have seen, how the hell can I even trust the GVWR since almost every half ton is AT LEAST a 7200lbs GVWR? Awesome truck, horrible documentation and resources for buyers. Really burned me. All I can hope is that Ram designed a truck to be a truck, not a Charger with a box. So far, seems like it- so I am crossing my fingers.
Be advised- depending on where you are, or where you intend to travel, this number can very well be a legal limit that can be enforced. British Columbia comes to mind right away. They actively weight RV'ers and their rigs because of the tourist traffic and mountains, and if you're over weight, expect a hefty fine and having to leave your trailer behind until you can arrange a pickup with a larger tow vehicle- all on your dime of course. Here is Sask, it's not so strict. They pretty much don't even look at us unless they see an obvious infraction like a tacoma with a 5th wheel, and even then- they only care about the GCWR. I am not trying to sound like the "weight police" or scare you, but it's a reality that all of us towing with half tons usually have to face at some point with decently sized travel trailers. We will, often, be over on something. We just have to choose what and by how much, and if we are comfortable with it.
There are other ratings to consider too- and to me, the following are the more important of the ratings. That is Gross Combination Weight Rating and Axle Weight Rating. Both of which I am under. The GCWR is designed to tell you what the truck is designed to withstand on the drive line and braking. So, if you have a GCWR of 15650 like mine, you can be assured that your entire load with trailer can weigh up to that and you will be fine with your drive line and braking ability PROVIDED the trailer has a braking system of its own over a certain weight. You should not expect any overheating or faults (outside of the unexpected) at or under this combined weight. But that is assuming a trailer with almost no tongue weight- think along the lines of a hay wagon or a cotton wagon. Wheels on all for corners so there is no leverage on the hitch.
The axle weight rating takes into account the axles, bearings, wheels, springs, shocks, mounts, tires, and basically anything that would be considered "running gear" and to me, this is one I won't toy with. You never know what the weak link really is. If you are unlucky enough that it is a bearing, wheel or an axle shaft, you could be in for a real nightmare if one fails being overstressed. I have sheared the lugs off a wheel. It's not a fun experience, but I was being an idiot and doing some NASTY dirt racing, so it was my own damn fault, and not a fault of the equipment. I drove commercially for a few years, and these were the most important numbers. Axles and combination.
Good luck in your searches my friend, I am certain you will find the right toy hauler! You have the advantage of knowing what you're working with before buying the trailer. I was dumb enough to do it like I did.
