6.4 Hemi 5th wheel weights

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Bigdaddy

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I'm only looking at most being at 10.5K lbs completely loaded up for a week long trip. I'd never attempt more than that with my ratings. It's odd that the pull behind towed better for you. As i mentioned everyone has told me 5'ers are a much better tow since the weight is in the bed, but "grain of salt" right.

I know a CTD would be preferred, but not in the cards anytime soon. I appreciate the feedback from all of you. I might just deal with the slow towing for a bit then see what diesels are about.


This is what I'm planning on getting, I know that I can do it with no problem but I do have the 4.10 gears so I might be a little better than you, I check and you should do this with no problem. You what tow as good as a CTD but it will get you there.
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U&A

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Hard to say since I've only driven the 3.73s. I really can't imagine the difference to the 4.10s is that drastic. Sure, it's better but how much? If I were to do a gear swap it would for sure be to the 4.56. As a side note my dealer recently told me this wasn't possible but I'm thinking he didn't know what he was talking about since I've read of others with the same truck doing the swap with no problem.

Anyway, as you can see from reading the posts, right around 10K is the time to start considering the diesel. The whole 5th wheel thing is a quirk though. The diesel of course adds pulling power but reduces payload by 750# or so due to the added weight of the engine.

I fully agree with many that the 10,000# GVWR rating on a 2500 is largely a numbers game to keep these trucks in a certain class. I generally have no problem getting a set of airbags or helper springs and assume I have a 3500 truck. It's just a big disheartening to spend +/- 50K on a truck knowing I'm going the technically overload it. The other option is to get a 3500 and live with super bumpy leaf springs. After driving the 2500 I can tell you the coils are plenty stiff for daily driving and I don't imagine the leafs are any softer.

I'm currently in the process of getting airbags installed to help my coils and will run with my setup through the summer and likely beyond. A Cummins well may be in my future but I've just got too much other stuff going on right now to deal with swapping trucks (and 5th hitches, etc.). Overall, I'm towing at the max of the truck and it does fine 95% of the time. The other 5% is decent and doesn't justify and immediate need to change.

On Edit - one last thought OP, you keep mentioning 9500#. Keep in mind that's the dry weight. You're going to be at least 1000# over that with barely anything in the trailer. Likely closer to 2000#. I have just basic blankets and camping stuff and I gained 1500#. I never weighed my trailer empty so I have to trust the yellow sticker. It sure doesn't seem like I put 1500# in it.

honestly its not that bad at all. its like anything else, you get used to it. air down when not towing and it is a little softer. IMO ( a may catch hell for this) a 3/4 ton is kinda a "tweener" truck.....IMO. if you plan on towing anything around 10,000 lbs get a 1 ton. it make life easier. not trying to be an ass. just stating my opinion.
 

mtofell

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honestly its not that bad at all. its like anything else, you get used to it. air down when not towing and it is a little softer. IMO ( a may catch hell for this) a 3/4 ton is kinda a "tweener" truck.....IMO. if you plan on towing anything around 10,000 lbs get a 1 ton. it make life easier. not trying to be an ass. just stating my opinion.

I agree with the 2500 being a "tweener." The thing I just can't get past is how much I loved the coils in my Ram when I went from the leafs in my old Chevy. More than just softer it just handles better - with or without towing. The best descriptors I could use is that the leafs are choppy and slam back into place while the coils are smooth and consistent.

The end all would seem to be a full air rear suspension but for some reason I am having trouble finding that - but haven't looked super hard yet.
 

U&A

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I agree with the 2500 being a "tweener." The thing I just can't get past is how much I loved the coils in my Ram when I went from the leafs in my old Chevy. More than just softer it just handles better - with or without towing. The best descriptors I could use is that the leafs are choppy and slam back into place while the coils are smooth and consistent.

The end all would seem to be a full air rear suspension but for some reason I am having trouble finding that - but haven't looked super hard yet.

makes sense
 
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RoadDog66

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The Tow/Haul will change the shift points of the trans, it also changes the cooling strategy for the trans and enables the Trailer Sway Control.

The Tow/Haul seems to keep me in 4th gear and won't go to 5th even on the flats. This is pulling my 6K empty travel trailer. Confirmed that today on the way to the dealer to drop it off. Gas mileage is better towing without tow/haul mode.

Do you think not using it is detrimental to the truck?
 
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RoadDog66

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On Edit - one last thought OP, you keep mentioning 9500#. Keep in mind that's the dry weight. You're going to be at least 1000# over that with barely anything in the trailer. Likely closer to 2000#. I have just basic blankets and camping stuff and I gained 1500#. I never weighed my trailer empty so I have to trust the yellow sticker. It sure doesn't seem like I put 1500# in it.

I hear you for sure on that. I just unloaded our TT for the trade-in and holy crap there was a lot of stuff. Likely 1000 lbs and at least 50% was completely unecessary. We plan to only travel with necessities at first to see how it goes.

It does add up quick. Trying to stay under the 19,800 CGVWR and 3000 payload with a gasser 2500 sure is a pain. I have no idea how my neighbor even does it with his 2500 CTD, 14K+ loaded 5'er, and only 2300 lb payload.
 

U&A

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The Tow/Haul seems to keep me in 4th gear and won't go to 5th even on the flats. This is pulling my 6K empty travel trailer. Confirmed that today on the way to the dealer to drop it off. Gas mileage is better towing without it.

Do you think not using it is detrimental to the truck?

with 6,000 lbs i dont think so....but its all about monitoring temps to tell you what is going on.
 

crash68

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The Tow/Haul seems to keep me in 4th gear and won't go to 5th even on the flats. This is pulling my 6K empty travel trailer. Confirmed that today on the way to the dealer to drop it off. Gas mileage is better towing without tow/haul mode.

Do you think not using it is detrimental to the truck?
If your towing 6K along with your truck your at about 13K, your already 2/3s loaded for your trucks GCWR. 4th gear is 1:1, fifth and sixth are technically overdrive. Transmissions are shifted by torque demand/ engine load. Try going faster then slowing down, the trans may upshift. Even with 3K behind my EcoD, Tow/Haul would delay upshifting into 8th until I was on flats for a while.
I wouldn't say that not using it is detrimental but keep an eye on your temps.
 

avolnek

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I hear you for sure on that. I just unloaded our TT for the trade-in and holy crap there was a lot of stuff. Likely 1000 lbs and at least 50% was completely unecessary. We plan to only travel with necessities at first to see how it goes.

It does add up quick. Trying to stay under the 19,800 CGVWR and 3000 payload with a gasser 2500 sure is a pain. I have no idea how my neighbor even does it with his 2500 CTD, 14K+ loaded 5'er, and only 2300 lb payload.

Simple to get it done, just forget to pay attention to the weights...

I have my truck (a 2500) tagged for 6 ton even though it is rated for 5 ton. I am comfortable with this as each of the tires on the truck are rated at 3,000+ pounds each. Also knowing that the 2500 as mentioned earlier is a "tweener" truck playing the number games with weights.

Now i'm not saying to completely disregard ratings by any means but I am saying that i am nearly 1,000 pounds over loaded per the door sticker on the truck but under each axle rating and under the tire ratings....
 

rleeh11

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So I tow a fifth wheel ( Durango gold) with 2900 pin weight and dry weight of 12500. A recent weigh shows it to gross around 15k with my fresh tank full and Stocked full of goodies. The rated gross is near 16 so I have a little room. With that much pin weight I should have a dually... I’d feel better about less load on the rear tires. I run the 4.10 gears tows pretty good, I dislike the 2nd gear ratio, just seems like the Aisin ratios would be a lot better.
 
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JoeNation

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Performance update: Just picked up my Cougar 336BHS 5W and the the Ram handled it without an issue. I have the 3:73 package, cruise set at 65 and it pulled great. The RV weighs 10.6K unloaded and the Pin is 1980lbs. I had zero issues pulling it and never felt as though i was being pushed while slowing down. i do live in WPA so no real mountains but alot of rolling terrain. I could not be happier with the truck. I do have a long box and use a standard Pullrite hitch. Comparing it to my TT i traded is night and day. I was super stressing over the trucks performance but I cant be happier. I am at 19.2K loaded which is just under combined GVWR. First trip was only 100 miles but MPG computer 8.2 hand 8.1.
 

dexter

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. First trip was only 100 miles but MPG computer 8.2 hand 8.1.

I full time in a TT and around 8 mpg is the general area you will get.

When you go from east to west you will get bad mpg because of the wind - west to east better mpg.

Once I saw 19mpg on the truck gauge with a tail wind.
 

mtofell

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Performance update: Just picked up my Cougar 336BHS 5W and the the Ram handled it without an issue. I have the 3:73 package, cruise set at 65 and it pulled great. The RV weighs 10.6K unloaded and the Pin is 1980lbs. I had zero issues pulling it and never felt as though i was being pushed while slowing down. i do live in WPA so no real mountains but alot of rolling terrain. I could not be happier with the truck. I do have a long box and use a standard Pullrite hitch. Comparing it to my TT i traded is night and day. I was super stressing over the trucks performance but I cant be happier. I am at 19.2K loaded which is just under combined GVWR. First trip was only 100 miles but MPG computer 8.2 hand 8.1.

If you ever want to get more breathing room on the GCWR you could re-gear. The same truck with the 4.10s gets you 3000# more. Although, if you are going to do it, most recommend going to 4.56 or something like that. The 4.10 is just a good example that you get 3000# more hauling ability. Although, I doubt it's a linear scale. Meaning 4.56 can't tow 7000# more. There is likely some other limiting factor in the drive train that you'd run up against.

I haul an 11K 5th wheel with 3.73 gears and have strongly considered re-gearing but just never have. Now, I'm at 85K miles on a 5 year old truck and just can't see putting the money in (especially with that 8spd coming out in the 2019 HD Hemi :))
 

JoeNation

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Thanks both mtofell & dexter. I am considering regearing but i not until next year after my full bumper to bumper warranty expires. I am lucky to have a wonderful driveline shop right by the house. i will most likely go with the 4:44's as this is a Mopar set and being placed in their trucks now.

Dexter i only drive north and south so i will be headwind neutral lol.
 

tjfdesmo

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The 4.44s are in the C&C trucks, and I thing they run a bigger diff???
 
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