8HP70 Transmission Cooler

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SyN

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I am up for any suggestions or advice. This fix would almost be too easy just to splice into one of these rubber hoses with a block valve to cut flow to the exchanger surely it might cause a code or something to pop up I don't know.
 
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AFMoulton

AFMoulton

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From what I've read, that 3 way valve is programmed by the pcm, so I'm sure if you bypass it somehow the truck would throw a code.

If we could trick the truck to thinking the heater ran all the time, it would cut off the flow to the heat exchanger.
 

SyN

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The plug circled is there from the casting process, and is just a plug. That cooler on the side of the trans is used to get the trans up to operating temp fast so as to reduce its internal friction as soon as possible - this is all done to gain fuel economy on the certification cycles.

There is a directional coolant valve controlled by the engine controller, located on the passenger side of the engine compartment on the frame rail next to the alternator. This controls the amount of coolant flow either to the heater core or to the trans cooler. If you're not demanding heat in the cabin, then it directs coolant to the trans oil heat exchanger, else it sends coolant flow to the heater core. During trailer tow it also demands coolant flow to the trans in order to actually absorb heat from the engine since the trans has excess cooling capacity and operates at a low temp during heavy operation.

Most transmissions we've seen both on the Ram and Jeep EcoDiesels operate at 90-100C (195-212F). If you're operating at over 110C (230F) all the time, likely there is a clutch slippage issue in the trans. At 140C the trans depowers and goes into hydraulic default mode (6th gear, converter unlocked). Trying to run the trans cooler will just result in degraded fuel economy. If you want it to do so, just disconnect the coolant lines from the heat exchanger and connect them to one another to bypass it - now it behaves just like the Grand Cherokee.

This from GDE! Thank you Hemi for the link.

Just like CAFE it all boils down to Fuel Economy! We don't care as long as it lasts up until your warranty is up.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$&$&&&&&&&&&&&&&&

GDE: We don't see a clear advantage or disadvantage to the trans running at 160F or 190F. At colder temps it will have more internal friction, so it might take more effort from the engine to turn it. You also might notice more harsh shifts since, ultimately, they're calibrated at standard operating temps of the trans.

It could be said that the "keep it simple" philosophy applies well. The directional valve already installed is useful for its purpose and in our tuning we've already made further changes to optimize it's function in the name of getting the engine up to temp faster.
If you don't want the benefit of the heater, I would just disconnect the coolant lines from it and connect them together. In this way it behaves like the Grand Cherokee without the heater which operates at the same standard temp as the Ram, just takes longer to get there.

If you want the trans to run permanently at a colder temp you'd have to remove it's thermostatic assembly and let fluid flow to the trans cooler all the time.

If you have the heat on in the cabin, the HVAC module tells the engine controller how much coolant flow to direct to the heater core in order to provide sufficient heat.
With our tune, below 80C of coolant temp you're always sending heat to the heater core regardless if it needs it or not. Afterwards, the balancing of heating requirements kicks in.

The stock tune does the switch-over much sooner, we wanted to prioritize warming up the engine first and everything else afterwards.
 

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SyN

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Coolant not required for cabin heat is directed to the transmission heater. Coolant flow is directed by a pulse width modulated ball valve located upstream of the cabin heater coolant supply. Coolant first goes to the 3-way valve inlet port. The 3-way coolant valve receives a signal from the engine controller directing to turn the ball valve in accordance with the cabin compartment heat demand. The transmission heater is an assembly containing an oil-to-water heat exchanger and a Thermal Bypass Valve (TBV). The coolant from the 3-way valve not being used to warm the cabin compartment is used to warm the transmission oil in order to get it up to the ideal operating temperature. The transmission oil flows through the cooler manifold where heat exchange from the transmission heater occurs, and then back into the transmission. The transmission oil cooler is bypassed until the transmission oil reaches approximately 82°C (180°F).

So, for whoever wants to have the transmission running at a maximum of 160 (for example), I believe that the existing warmer has to be deleted and a custom heat exchanger should be installed, without a TBV. Or just deleted without replacement, depending on the decision, I one would keep a warmer for mileage considerations. (This part was a quote from another member!)
 
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AFMoulton

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I figured you would enjoy that link SyN! I'm glad I'm not the only one who got excited reading it.
 

SyN

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Now! I am more dam confused as ever... I might not even worry about the transmission temps anymore. Just do a pan drain and refill every 40K miles & replace my spin-on filter Wix 51516XP every 20K miles.

My best option (maybe not everyone else's) will be a tuner to adjust the fan to actually drop the coolant temps which in turn will drop the transmission temps to the temp of the coolant--->(175-185). As well as either a 170*F or 180*F Thermostat.

8HP70 owners now have another choice for fluid replacement besides Red Line D6. Motul ATF VI.

https://www.motul.com/system/produc...ets/48940/original/ATF_VI_(GB).pdf?1435932694
 

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SyN

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From a company who is highly respected and I trust their products and technology.
Here is my new Bible when it comes to transmission fluid temperature.
Notice the normal operating range temperature has jumped up from previous years. Maybe this is due to the advanced Technology and research that has been put into ATF.

I am not really going to concern myself with my transmission temperatures that much any longer. If I can still drop it to 185 I would be thrilled but 185 to 192 I'm not going to lose sleep over any longer.

I am though going to keep looking into a 170-180° thermostat along with a programmer to benefit that new thermostat so my coolant temps will drop as well as my transmission temperature.
 

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tsielski

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Very interesting thread.

On another forum, it was asked if one bypassed the Thermal Bypass Valve thereby directing the transmission oil always through the front-mounted trans cooler, would a code be generated. The answer was no, given by a member who goes by the name of "TransEngineer". I've seen his posts for quite some time on the TurboDiesel Register Forum and he seems to be exceptionally knowledgeable.
Obviously some oil line fabrication would be needed to do this, but I suspect that doing this would lengthen the transmission warm up time, but because the transmission oil was still being heated by engine coolant, the oil would still climb to pre-modification levels.
An investigative project, for me at least, will be to see if I can insert a manual ball valve into the coolant line going from the 3-way coolant valve to the transmission heat exchanger. That way I can shut the coolant flow to it off and see if any codes are thrown. If a code is thrown, the ball valve can be opened returning the flow to "stock".
Something to look at once the weather decides to warm up and stay that way.
 
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