Campers and Towing

I am looking at getting a camper. I have a 2017 Ram Crew Cab 1500 2-wheel drive with the 5.7 liter Hemi and the 3.21 axle. I am looking into getting a Keystone Outback 301BQ which has a unloading weight of 7,030 lbs and cargo carrying capacity of 1,170 lbs for a GVWR of approximately 8,200 lbs. I do not ever see myself maxing out the camper to the 8,200 lbs but wanted to see if this was too much camper as my truck is only rated to pull up to 8,100 lbs which seems low. Any info would be appreciated.

Also, anyone have any experience with the Keystone Outback campers
or Keystone campers in general? Any issues I should be aware of or look for specifically as this is a used unit?

The numbers you should keep under are your Payload (on the Tire and Loading Sticker on the door jamb), GVWR, GAWRs and GCWR. Ram 1500s don't have the best payloads especially when loaded with options.

I had a 2015 5.7L Crew Cab 4x2 3.21 Lone Star (same as Big Horn). I bought it before we started looking for an RV. Its sticker payload was just under 1500 lbs.

That trailers loaded tongue weight will likely be 900+ lbs, leaving you approximately 500 lbs for passengers and cargo. Take MFG trailer dry weights with a grain of salt. The actual sticker on it will be higher and tongue weights don't include the two propane tanks and deep cycle battery.

I pulled a 29 ft travel trailer with 7815 GVWR and 890 lbs dry tongue with the 2015 1500. Actual tongue was 950 lbs, loaded mostly towards the rear of the trailer. Loaded weight was 6300 lbs.

Power was never a problem, the transmission was always in the right gear. I was just under GVWR and slightly over payload per CAT scale weights.

Even with my e2 Fastway WD Hitch correctly dialed in, it just wasn't solid feeling enough for me out on the highway. My TT is a full height model with 6'6" interior height, with spring over axle configuration, so full wind sail in effect. I did not like the wobble/shimmy effect of passing traffic.

All this said, if you can stay under your numbers and plan to go local only you might be ok. Full-time or cross country, I don't recommend for that trailer and your truck.

IMO, either pick a smaller trailer or buy a 2500 and don't sweat pulling any TT of anysize, including some Park Models.

Pull a 33ft 8000+ lbs camper with a 19ft 6800 lbs truck - what can go wrong ?

Can it be done - yes. Should, no. The camper is probably going to have 1200ish lbs of tongue weight, that doesn't leave much for passengers etc. in the truck.

The tow rating is merely stating the weight the truck can pull and accelerate uphill under specific conditions. Manufacturers don't determine the tow rating with huge travel trailers but specific test rigs that are short and low to the ground.

I agree with the above post, I'd be looking at a smaller trailer or a 2500. I just got a Cherokee Wolf Pup over the summer that has a dry weight of 3100lbs with a carrying capacity of 1000lbs, so I figure about 4100lbs fully loaded. My truck is a 1500 Hemi CC 4x4 6speed 3.55s and it works a lot more than I thought it would pulling such a small trailer.

Now in your case, you have the 8 speed and 3.21s which is still a better final drive ratio than my truck but IMO thats a lot of weight to tow with a 1500. Plus you have to consider wind resistance with a travel trailer. I've towed about 4000lbs of stone in a dump trailer(not sure of the weight of the trailer) before and my truck handled that better than my 4100lb TT.

BPStymiest said:

I am looking at getting a camper. I have a 2017 Ram Crew Cab 1500 2-wheel drive with the 5.7 liter Hemi and the 3.21 axle. I am looking into getting a Keystone Outback 301BQ which has a unloading weight of 7,030 lbs and cargo carrying capacity of 1,170 lbs for a GVWR of approximately 8,200 lbs. I do not ever see myself maxing out the camper to the 8,200 lbs but wanted to see if this was too much camper as my truck is only rated to pull up to 8,100 lbs which seems low. Any info would be appreciated.

Also, anyone have any experience with the Keystone Outback campers
or Keystone campers in general? Any issues I should be aware of or look for specifically as this is a used unit?

Click to expand...

I purchased a Keystone cougar in July. Put 5000 miles on it and camped continuous for a month. This is my 7th or 8th travel trailer and they all have one thing in common. Expect to have to do minor maintenance from day one. Little things like panels, cabinets and such. Expect as time goes by you start noticing the poor workmanship from the factory. The selling dealer makes a big difference as far as service. I am currently waiting on Keystone for reimbursement of a covered warranty issue that the dealer charged me for and should not have. We will see how that works out.

Get a lighter trailer, save some pennies and pick up a ProPride 3P WDH. Yes, it's $2500 for a WDH, but you'll never worry about sway, ever, again.

Keep your weights in check and that 1500 will surprise you.

Another point - you say you don't see yourself ever maxing out the trailer load, but it's surprising how fast it adds up. Especially in a big trailer like that where it never seems to pile up in one place.

BPStymiest said:

Also, anyone have any experience with the Keystone Outback campers
or Keystone campers in general? Any issues I should be aware of or look for specifically as this is a used unit?

Click to expand...

Keystone campers are basically cheaply/quickly made units. That being said, pretty much any RV at that price point fall into the same category. Of course, there is one sitting in my driveway and I enjoy it regularly Just don't expect it to hold up like a stick built house and you'll undoubtedly have moments (or days or weeks) of being disappointed about things that go wrong. That's just the RV game.

And I second what Wahrsuul says about weight. 1000# is nothing when it comes to things you put in the trailer. Water is definitely not figured into that "dry" weight. Propane tanks and batteries may not be. That's a lot of trailer for the truck you have. Especially with that 3.21 rear end.

Propane, battery(s), pots, pans, plateware, cups, silverware, toiletries, bedding, food, ice, clothes, trailer supplies (chocks, jacks, sewer, chemicals, leveling parts, tools, mats, carpets), cleaning supplies, vacuum, games/entertainment, beer/drinks.

You'd be surprised just how much weight you think you don't have in that trailer when it's fully loaded for a trip. It adds up, quick. And just when you think you don't need anything else you're buying something else to throw in there. Spare parts, new kitchen/bathroom faucet fixtures (ones that come with RV are junk), towel racks, closet organizers, coffee maker, extension cords, lighting, second TV, game console, bike rack with bikes. Underbelly accessories for sewer hose management, fishing tackle storage, storage bins, grill for outside.....


the list goes on and on. 1000# worth or stuff is very easy to hit and exceed.

I think pulling at the max would make some uncomfortable road trips. My camper is 800lbs dry but we plan on upgrading eventually. I have pretty much made my mind that it will be 4,000lbs full loaded or less. White knuckling over 10k' mountain passes doesn't sound like the desired effect I'm going for.

One of the vids for newbies recommends taking your max towing capacity and multiplying by .75 and using that as your max. Keeps you from over stressing your tow vehicle.

I transport new TTs from the Mfgs to dealerships for a living with my 1500 Ram ED. 48 states 350k miles. Anyway google showed that TT as 33' & it will be 8,000 wet.

That is a lot of TT for the 1500 platform and a lot of weight for the 3.21 rear when towing a grade. A HD would be a better tool for the job. But it is safely do-able if your wet TT weight is below your trucks rated max tow. And if the combined vehicle weight is below your trucks CVWR. This also assumes your not over the max axle rating of 3,900 which is going to require a proper sized WDH & good weight distribution per scaled axle weights.

1/2 or 3/4 ton the right & still cost effective way to set that up is with a Husky Centerline/ Blue Ox Sway Pro or Equalizer WDH with 1,000 pound or greater rated bars set up on a CAT scale that weights your steer, drive, & wet TT axles separately at the same time. First & foremost job one would be to replace your unloaded steer weight.

Additionally you would want a factory trailer brake controller and I would also suggest axle to frame bags on a 1500 for for greater suspension dampening control & support. To be used as needed after weight distribution has been optimized as can be. At tire replacement time some E loads would also provide some additional stability.

It won't be the weight of the Outback that's a problem, it's the tongue weight. Unless you go alone, you will be over on your payload capacity. I have an Outback 298RE and love it. I had a 1500 when I bought it. It handled the weight well enough. Got on the CAT scales and was 300 pounds over the rear axle rating. You can only shift weight around so much.

I'd look for a smaller camper or a bigger truck.

RLM that is where I would expect to start. Do you remember the steer drive & TT axle weights? What hitch & bar weight rating? Just curious as it's an interest of mine. Thanks

When I said it's a lot weight that is what I was referencing ie as to making sure it's spread between the axles.

Smaller trailer. We all know the Hemi in your 1500 will pull it. But will the 1500 stop it. Will it do a sufficient job during an emergency stop/braking maneuver from say 40mph to a dead stop? Sure it will tow it up mountain passes in the West but will you have adequate truck to feel comfortable and safe going down the backside of said mountain pass? MY guess is you will be white-knuckle driving most of the time on all road conditions.

Stoping a new trailer with new trailer brakes shouldn't be a problem. The trailer will have proper sized brakes. Factory trailer brake controller makes stoping sway or descending a mountain grade safer & easier. Just test & adjust your gain before setting out.

Proper tire inflation TV & TT along with good scale verified weight distribution / no sway WDH will provide the stability for the emergency accident avoidance. As well as eliminate white knuckle bad setup handling. This is where most people drop the ball. Instruction for this should be a sticky.

Well the 1500 has less weight so theres less weight to stop.
It has better brakes for the weight compared to a 2500.
As said the trailer will have brakes as well..

Husky Centerline, Blue Ox Sway Pro, Equal-I-Zer are all great WDH's.

If you haven't heard of or checked out the ProPride 3P WDH you're doing yourself a disservice. Simply the best WDH on the market. Having owned a cheap Eaz-Lift and upgrading to an Anderson and then a Blue Ox none of them provided a perfectly stable towing platform, even after being dialed in on CAT scales. With the ProPride I can be doing 60 and get passed by an 18 wheeler doing 80+ and barely feel it, if at all. I can drive my rig at highway speeds in bad cross winds with 1 finger.

It's that's stable. But, that kind of stability will cost you just north of $2500. To me, that's a low cost to pay for safety and peace of mind when I have $100k worth of truck and trailer under my control.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyIjc1T3BdQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkyPoVpTRvM

BPStymiest said:

I am looking at getting a camper. I have a 2017 Ram Crew Cab 1500 2-wheel drive with the 5.7 liter Hemi and the 3.21 axle. I am looking into getting a Keystone Outback 301BQ which has a unloading weight of 7,030 lbs and cargo carrying capacity of 1,170 lbs for a GVWR of approximately 8,200 lbs. I do not ever see myself maxing out the camper to the 8,200 lbs but wanted to see if this was too much camper as my truck is only rated to pull up to 8,100 lbs which seems low. Any info would be appreciated.

Also, anyone have any experience with the Keystone Outback campers
or Keystone campers in general? Any issues I should be aware of or look for specifically as this is a used unit?

Click to expand...

Be careful. I spent 5 years trying to beef up my 1500 so it would pull my 8000# trailer better. Truck was rated to easily handle this much trailer. Installed the TLC system first. I could never get the system to ride decent, loaded or empty, and even aired the pressures down to 5 PSI where it still rattled the dash on slight bumps in the road. After 3 years I removed the system and installed the tuff truck variable rate springs. I could tell no difference in ride height and how it handled the trailer. I finally broke down and bought a 2500 and solved all my handling problems. I realized you cant make a 2500 out of a 1500. In my opinion if you are even close to rated tow capacities it is money well spent to go with the 2500.