Hitch Recommendations

DannyMK2 · Apr 22, 2016

Im looking for input on buying an adjustable hitch. ive been browsing etrailer and theres a few choices, curious if anybody on here has any of them and can provide me feedback. some of them are a bit pricey so i would hate to waste money on something i wont like. it needs to fit into a 2.5" receiver...i dont want to run the sleeve. also needs to have 8"-10" of drop. i dont have a preference of steel or aluminum. this husky one happened to catch my eye...

Husky Liners Adjustable 2-Ball Mount for 2-1/2" Hitches - 10" Drop - 10K - Black Husky Liners Ball Mounts HL17205

MADDOG · Apr 22, 2016

When I looked, I found this one for $259.95 at eTrailer:

Self-Locking, Adjustable, Aluminum Ball Mount - 2 Chrome Balls - 10" Drop, 11" Rise - 10K Fastway Ball Mounts DTALBM7025

Looks like the price went up.

I picked it because of the locking and relocating pin systems on it vs. the Husky.

I've used it quite a bit since I got it last Spring and it works well.

DannyMK2 · Apr 22, 2016

MADDOG said:
When I looked, I found this one for $259.95 at eTrailer:

Self-Locking, Adjustable, Aluminum Ball Mount - 2 Chrome Balls - 10" Drop, 11" Rise - 10K Fastway Ball Mounts DTALBM7025

Looks like the price went up.

I picked it because of the locking and relocating pin systems on it vs. the Husky.

I've used it quite a bit since I got it last Spring and it works well.

one thing that had concerned me about that one was the locking mechanism seizing and making it useless. no issues there?

BossHogg · Apr 23, 2016

I went with the Weight Safe solution, 2 1/2 shaft by 10" drop.
https://www.weigh-safe.com/product/weigh-safe-10-inch-drop-hitch/

It is a bit more expensive but some Googling around I found it for almost $100 less after applying the reseller's coupon. I like the built in scale, no more guessing if the tongue is properly loaded.

The only weakness is the round lock that secures the ball mount. They do not provide a dust cover for the lock and it can fill with road crap, especially true for me living on dirt roads. Weight Safe told me they will have a solution this spring (nothing so far), until then I use a piece of tape to keep dirt out of the round lock.

The quality is over the top machined out of a block, with 2 5/16 and 2" stainless steel balls. This is one of those items you only have to buy once.

DannyMK2 · Apr 23, 2016

BossHogg said:
I went with the Weight Safe solution, 2 1/2 shaft by 10" drop.
https://www.weigh-safe.com/product/weigh-safe-10-inch-drop-hitch/

It is a bit more expensive but some Googling around I found it for almost $100 less after applying the reseller's coupon. I like the built in scale, no more guessing if the tongue is properly loaded.

The only weakness is the round lock that secures the ball mount. They do not provide a dust cover for the lock and it can fill with road crap, especially true for me living on dirt roads. Weight Safe told me they will have a solution this spring (nothing so far), until then I use a piece of tape to keep dirt out of the round lock.

The quality is over the top machined out of a block, with 2 5/16 and 2" stainless steel balls. This is one of those items you only have to buy once.

have you had any issues with the stainless steel balls getting stuck to the aluminum. ?

MADDOG · Apr 23, 2016

DannyMK2 said:
one thing that had concerned me about that one was the locking mechanism seizing and making it useless. no issues there?

Nope, no issues at all. They recommend a shot of silicone based lube once a year in the sockets and locks and that's all ya need.

Let us know what you think about the one you got. Sounds like a good one.

BossHogg · Apr 24, 2016

DannyMK2 said:
have you had any issues with the stainless steel balls getting stuck to the aluminum. ?

In all the reviews I read before selecting this solution that topic never appeared. I have not had that issue but this is the first year I'm using it so I don't have any time logged with it yet. I'll have to pay attention to this since I only pull one bumper pull, my flatbed and likely would never change the ball.

BTW, I needed the full 10 inch drop on a 3500 even with the air suspension set to alt ride height. The tongue weight is 750 pounds with a total trailer weight of around 7,200 pounds. It trailers very nicely with this tongue weight.

http://www.ramforum.com/images/styles/ram/attach/jpg.gif

Danno · Apr 24, 2016

The longer the drop the less the capacity. Personally I use reese farm and ranch class v drawbars from tractor supply. They are solid steel and rated for anywhere from 12k-16k GTW. I wouldn't trust the aluminum hitch, they look too fragile and the balls look like they will be a pain to find replacements.

Then there's the class iv drawbars at walmart which will do the just of 75% of what everyone wants and needs.

Bigdaddy · Apr 25, 2016

MADDOG said:
When I looked, I found this one for $259.95 at eTrailer:

Self-Locking, Adjustable, Aluminum Ball Mount - 2 Chrome Balls - 10" Drop, 11" Rise - 10K Fastway Ball Mounts DTALBM7025

Looks like the price went up.

I picked it because of the locking and relocating pin systems on it vs. the Husky.

I've used it quite a bit since I got it last Spring and it works well.

This is what I have but just the 6" one.

BossHogg · Apr 25, 2016

Danno said:
I wouldn't trust the aluminum hitch, they look too fragile and the balls look like they will be a pain to find replacements.

I don't think "fragile" is appropriate for a hitch milled from a block of aluminum that is rated at 14,500 LBS max GTW (2-5/16” ball) and 2200 LBS max Tongue weight and carries SAE's J864 certification.

The balls are readily available from the manufacture but really, I doubt a lifetime would wear out a stainless steel ball.

Danno · Apr 25, 2016

BossHogg said:
I don't think "fragile" is appropriate for a hitch milled from a block of aluminum that is rated at 14,500 LBS max GTW (2-5/16” ball) and 2200 LBS max Tongue weight and carries SAE's J864 certification.

The balls are readily available from the manufacture but really, I doubt a lifetime would wear out a stainless steel ball.

The weigh safe looks to be the most fragile of all aluminum hitches. A build in scale, how is that recalibrated after towing a trailer and having the scale maxed out over bumps. Would you use a torque wrench as a breaker bar?

You can do the same thing with a $15 bathroom scale, loading trailers isn't rock science.

BossHogg · Apr 25, 2016

Danno said:
The weigh safe looks to be the most fragile of all aluminum hitches. A build in scale, how is that recalibrated after towing a trailer and having the scale maxed out over bumps. Would you use a torque wrench as a breaker bar?

You can do the same thing with a $15 bathroom scale, loading trailers isn't rock science.

You just want to argue.

madpuma13 · Apr 25, 2016

I have and use the weigh safe. I have been very impressed by it. I don't tow heavy loads but the scale is definitely helpful on making sure the trailer is loaded correctly.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Danno · Apr 27, 2016

BossHogg said:
You just want to argue.

What's the max capacity of a class V hitch without weight distrubution?

"You can use a bathroom scale and a box to measure tongue weight of smaller trailers. Place the coupler of the loaded trailer on the scale at normal towing height (Figure A). For heavier tongue weights, use the second method (Figure B). Be sure to perform these measurements on a level surface and with a leveled trailer.

To use the method in Figure B, follow these guidelines:

Always place the trailer tongue 1 foot from the pipe on the support brick
Multiply the reading on the scale by the total distance between the 2 support pipes
Use a brick that is the same thickness as the scale so that the 2 x 4 is level when you weigh your trailer

For example, if the distance between the trailer tongue and the pipe on the scale is 2 feet and the distance between the trailer tongue and the pipe on the support brick is 1 foot, then you would multiply the reading on the scale by 3 to get the tongue weight. If the distance between the trailer tongue and the pipe on the scale is 3 feet and the distance between the trailer tongue and the pipe on the support brick is 1 foot, then you would multiply the reading on the scale by 4 to get the tongue weight."

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-determine-trailer-tongue-weight.aspx

DannyMK2 · Apr 27, 2016

Danno said:
What's the max capacity of a class V hitch without weight distrubution?

"You can use a bathroom scale and a box to measure tongue weight of smaller trailers. Place the coupler of the loaded trailer on the scale at normal towing height (Figure A). For heavier tongue weights, use the second method (Figure B). Be sure to perform these measurements on a level surface and with a leveled trailer.

To use the method in Figure B, follow these guidelines:

Always place the trailer tongue 1 foot from the pipe on the support brick
Multiply the reading on the scale by the total distance between the 2 support pipes
Use a brick that is the same thickness as the scale so that the 2 x 4 is level when you weigh your trailer

For example, if the distance between the trailer tongue and the pipe on the scale is 2 feet and the distance between the trailer tongue and the pipe on the support brick is 1 foot, then you would multiply the reading on the scale by 3 to get the tongue weight. If the distance between the trailer tongue and the pipe on the scale is 3 feet and the distance between the trailer tongue and the pipe on the support brick is 1 foot, then you would multiply the reading on the scale by 4 to get the tongue weight."

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-determine-trailer-tongue-weight.aspx

1) ive never seen a bathroom scale that can go up to 1500lbs
2) the scale on the weight safe hitch would be more of a bonus for me then anything. i would rather have the option for no scale and save a few bucks but that option doesnt exist. if its not the most accurate thing, i dont care.
3) your argument of aluminum being too fragile....well, the aluminum hitches im finding are rated higher then the steel ones, and in the case of the weigh safe, its SAE certified. id actually love to find a 10 or 12 hole steel pintle mount that fits into a 2.5" receiver, since that would eliminate me having to carry two hitches, but i cant find one.

Danno · Apr 27, 2016

DannyMK2 said:
1) ive never seen a bathroom scale that can go up to 1500lbs
2) the scale on the weight safe hitch would be more of a bonus for me then anything. i would rather have the option for no scale and save a few bucks but that option doesnt exist. if its not the most accurate thing, i dont care.
3) your argument of aluminum being too fragile....well, the aluminum hitches im finding are rated higher then the steel ones, and in the case of the weigh safe, its SAE certified. id actually love to find a 10 or 12 hole steel pintle mount that fits into a 2.5" receiver, since that would eliminate me having to carry two hitches, but i cant find one.

You weigh any thing with a simple bathroom scale, it's just a little math.

Just because a they are rated higher doesn't mean they are better.

Check out GENY drawbars.

Good luck with aluminum hitch the one below was rated to for 10k and 1500 tongue, broke with a 24' boat.

GoldDot · Apr 27, 2016

Go to an RV shop they should have displays and be able to set you up.

BossHogg · Apr 28, 2016

Danno said:
Good luck with aluminum hitch the one below was rated to for 10k and 1500 tongue, broke with a 24' boat.

You can google for pictures of failed ball mounts, there is no shortage of images but they all have the same theme, cheap hitches being overloaded. The picture of the Anderson aluminum hitch is the only picture you can find of a failed aluminum hitch.

You should have told the rest of the story, why did the Anderson fail. The Anderson was used on the back of a motor home and repeatedly dragged the ground stressing the hitch.

Danno · Apr 28, 2016

BossHogg said:
You can google for pictures of failed ball mounts, there is no shortage of images but they all have the same theme, cheap hitches being overloaded. The picture of the Anderson aluminum hitch is the only picture you can find of a failed aluminum hitch.

You should have told the rest of the story, why did the Anderson fail. The Anderson was used on the back of a motor home and repeatedly dragged the ground stressing the hitch.

You just want to argue. Also were you there as there are multipule story's as to the failure?

BossHogg · Apr 28, 2016

Danno said:
You just want to argue. Also were you there as there are multipule story's as to the failure?

No, but you can find the entire story on the Mastercraft forum (boating), there isn't anything to argue about.

Look, I get it, your are a GENY or more proper, a Gen-Y fan boy. Nothing wrong with that or with Gen-Y's products. You push way to hard not realizing Gen-Y's solution isn't for everyone. Making wild ass unsupported claims about other solutions is ridiculous, makes you look foolish, a troll, a big mouth, etc.

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