New Camper! Long trip planned, thoughts?

Mitag3 · Aug 16, 2017

So the wife an I got a new camper. Trail Bay 27FK(I think). Can't remember real world numbers off the top of my head but we established an estimated around 7300lbs loaded with gear for an extended trip. Super slide is completely in front of the axles so i'm guessing close to 800lbs tongue weight with WDH.

My truck is a 2014 Ram 1500 express 6 speed with with less than 30,000 miles and bilsteins up front set at 2.1 and a 3/4 spacer in the rear. As I stated we have a weight distribution hitch with friction sway control, I installed Air Lift 1000 helper bags, aftermarket trailer brake controller, and plan on getting some load range E tires for the back.

Initial drives have been great even without the range E tires (I believe they are higher rated than stock but still about 300#'s/tire less than I plan on getting) and without the trailer brake control. Helper bags and WDH are awesome and have everything set where I want it. Trailer is almost dead level, leaning just a smidge towards the hitch. Truck only squats 3/4" in the rear and sits very level.

So what I'm looking for is any kind of insight on what could make a 2 month trip around the country more enjoyable with this thing (other than getting a 3/4 ton truck lol). I plan on hitting east and west coast, including plenty of mountainous trecking. I'll be in no rush so I'll be keeping the speeds down (I feel like I read somewhere 62 is a magic number for the Hemi for MPG?). Was thinking about looking into some heavy duty (?) transmission fluid to swap in before the trip to handle increased temps in the mountains. Anyone else take a big camper across the country with a half ton?

reek · Aug 16, 2017

not specific to your 1/2 ton with large trailer question but in general, if this is your first travel trailer:

- bring a jack and tools and check your spares
- get yourself all the various electric plug adapters on Amazon
- fresh water hose rubber washer spares and pressure regulator
- put your pooper hose in rubber maid box.
- get several sets of those stabilizer jack 'lego' blocks.
- 1 gallon jug of distilled water for any coolant issues.
- enjoy!

if you have trailer experience, disregard the above. except the enjoy part.

GsRAM · Aug 16, 2017

Nice rig. Congrats. But I'd double check your weights. What is your payload limit? What gear are you bringing? How many people in your truck?

Unless that side shot is deceptive by camera angle, double check your wdh set-up, as that rig looks nose high to me which you don't want pulling something that long and heavy with a half ton truck.

If i read your post right, your towing that around with no brake controller, no trailer brakes? If so, please stop now until you get a good controller installed like a prodigy P3 . Good luck.

Rampant · Aug 16, 2017

Nice rig. I'd try to get the trailer nosed-down just a bit. About as much below center as it appears to be above center currently.

Also, you mentioned replacing tranny fluid. Excellent idea. I wouldn't stop there. Since it is 3 yrs old and if you don't know for sure, along with the obvious fresh oil & filter change Id flush and change all fluids systems, including the differentials, x-fer case, cooling, brakes, and power steering. Always carry spares of each fluid as well.

Don't forget to check your brake pads and emergency brake operation. If you have to park on any incline at all, its essential to use your e-brake, as its very hard on the parking pawls in the tranny if you dont. And remember to apply the e-brake before putting it in park and shift into gear before releasing it. It keeps the tension off those pawls.

All the above is cheap insurance on a trip that long and gruelling, in my opinion. The worst thing to have happen would be a breakdown while traveling!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

muzupan · Aug 16, 2017

Run your truck through the scales and then run your truck and trailer through the scales to find out your actual loaded weight of truck gvw and truck and trailer combined gcvw and you can also figure tongue weight by those figures. From the picture it looks like the front End of the trailer needs to drop, put a level on the underside of the frame or on the trailer floor to see if you are level. As far as driving pulling that long of a trailer with a half ton you may want to drop your speed below 60 mph just take your time and enjoy it.

mowin · Aug 16, 2017

GsRAM said:
Nice rig. Congrats. But I'd double check your weights. What is your payload limit? What gear are you bringing? How many people in your truck?

Unless that side shot is deceptive by camera angle, double check your wdh set-up, as that rig looks nose high to me which you don't want pulling something that long and heavy with a half ton truck.

If i read your post right, your towing that around with no brake controller, no trailer brakes? If so, please stop now until you get a good controller installed like a prodigy P3 . Good luck.

X2 if both of us read your opening post correctly. If you don't have a brake controller installed, your asking for disaster. 8k pushing you down a hill and someone stops in front of you... know way will you stop in time. Plus the added wear to your TV's brake system and brake fade when they get hot.

Mitag3 · Aug 16, 2017

reek said:
not specific to your 1/2 ton with large trailer question but in general, if this is your first travel trailer:

- bring a jack and tools and check your spares
- get yourself all the various electric plug adapters on Amazon
- fresh water hose rubber washer spares and pressure regulator
- put your pooper hose in rubber maid box.
- get several sets of those stabilizer jack 'lego' blocks.
- 1 gallon jug of distilled water for any coolant issues.
- enjoy!

if you have trailer experience, disregard the above. except the enjoy part.

I believe I have hit all of these points except the backup distilled water, good tip thanks!

GsRAM said:
Nice rig. Congrats. But I'd double check your weights. What is your payload limit? What gear are you bringing? How many people in your truck?

Unless that side shot is deceptive by camera angle, double check your wdh set-up, as that rig looks nose high to me which you don't want pulling something that long and heavy with a half ton truck.

If i read your post right, your towing that around with no brake controller, no trailer brakes? If so, please stop now until you get a good controller installed like a prodigy P3 . Good luck.

Payload limit is a smidge under 1400lbs according to the door sticker. Just me and the wife at about 360#'s. With any random stuff in the vehicle and possibly dropping the nose of the trailer down a smidge I'm sure we will be right near the stock payload limit. Upgraded tires, weight distribution hitch, and air bags will make the truck more than able to handle that load though (yes I understand everyone's various stances on legalities etc etc). According to the level on the side of the camper I'm supposed to be a little nose down, but I did see someone mention putting a level on the frame itself to double check so i'll probably be doing that this weekend.

Rampant said:
Nice rig. I'd try to get the trailer nosed-down just a bit. About as much below center as it appears to be above center currently.

Also, you mentioned replacing tranny fluid. Excellent idea. I wouldn't stop there. Since it is 3 yrs old and if you don't know for sure, along with the obvious fresh oil & filter change Id flush and change all fluids systems, including the differentials, x-fer case, cooling, brakes, and power steering. Always carry spares of each fluid as well.

Don't forget to check your brake pads and emergency brake operation. If you have to park on any incline at all, its essential to use your e-brake, as its very hard on the parking pawls in the tranny if you dont. And remember to apply the e-brake before putting it in park and shift into gear before releasing it. It keeps the tension off those pawls.

All the above is cheap insurance on a trip that long and gruelling, in my opinion. The worst thing to have happen would be a breakdown while traveling!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Yeah I do see what youre saying the picture does make it look nose up. The level on the side of the rig shows it being nose down but maybe thats not a particularly accurate model? It did seem to pull pretty well but i'll probably put a level on the frame to double check.

Thats a good call on the parking brake stuff too, I have usually done that anyway on any sort of incline but I didn't think about that reasoning behind it, thanks for that!

I'll likely do a full "tune up" of all the fluids and brake pads before the trip for some "cheap insurance" as you put it.

Skrap · Aug 16, 2017

I'm jealous and trailer looks great, especially the interior for the year. Couple of things i would recommend but maybe this is just how i would roll if going for extended trips.

Find the most comfortable outside chairs you can along with a good outdoor table to put drinks and appetizers/horderves as well as a quality smallish ice chest.

I would get two spares for the TT. If you get a flat tire in the middle of nowhere and still have many miles to go to a city/town you are risking being stranded with out a spare tire and causing a lot of headache.

You said you are getting two new rear tires. Go and get all of them replaced since you are doing it. Personally i would be getting a more AT tire with an E rating. I have the Cooper ST Maxx and they are great. Aggressive for an AT tire, more load rating than you will require, not much additional road noice for the type of tire and less expensive than most other tires in their class. It made my stock truck in my sig line look so much better. You never know when the advantage of having an AT tread will come in handy.

Are you going to be doing much boondocking? If so, do you have all the supplies and items necessary to make it a comfortable experience? Are you going to need any sort of inverter generator and do you have one?

mowin · Aug 17, 2017

No mention of a brake controller?? I can't stress enough how important this is. Your NOT going to stop that thing going down a long hill. Your truck brakes will heat up while trying to keep your speed down and fade fast making them useless.

jkhcurry · Aug 17, 2017

It does say in original post that he has an aftermarket trailer brake controller.

"As I stated we have a weight distribution hitch with friction sway control, I installed Air Lift 1000 helper bags, aftermarket trailer brake controller, and plan on getting some load range E tires for the back."

mowin · Aug 17, 2017

jkhcurry said:
It does say in original post that he has an aftermarket trailer brake controller.

"As I stated we have a weight distribution hitch with friction sway control, I installed Air Lift 1000 helper bags, aftermarket trailer brake controller, and plan on getting some load range E tires for the back."

I guess I missed that part.... I only seen the "without a break controller " in the next paragraph.

Ok, I can sleep better now... :roflsquared:

Mitag3 · Aug 17, 2017

Skrap said:
I'm jealous and trailer looks great, especially the interior for the year. Couple of things i would recommend but maybe this is just how i would roll if going for extended trips.

Find the most comfortable outside chairs you can along with a good outdoor table to put drinks and appetizers/horderves as well as a quality smallish ice chest.

I would get two spares for the TT. If you get a flat tire in the middle of nowhere and still have many miles to go to a city/town you are risking being stranded with out a spare tire and causing a lot of headache.

You said you are getting two new rear tires. Go and get all of them replaced since you are doing it. Personally i would be getting a more AT tire with an E rating. I have the Cooper ST Maxx and they are great. Aggressive for an AT tire, more load rating than you will require, not much additional road noice for the type of tire and less expensive than most other tires in their class. It made my stock truck in my sig line look so much better. You never know when the advantage of having an AT tread will come in handy.

Are you going to be doing much boondocking? If so, do you have all the supplies and items necessary to make it a comfortable experience? Are you going to need any sort of inverter generator and do you have one?

Thank you, I was quite surprised at the condition of this thing for the year as well. Only thing needing looked at really is the awning. We have a good table for this but could probably use a little higher quality set of chairs, good call.

Another spare for the camper is probably a pretty good idea, could keep it in the back with the tools and stuff so it wouldn't be much of an issue.

I had an issue with 1 back tire maybe a couple thousand miles ago so I replaced both of the back ones at the time so for cost reasons I will likely just replace the back ones, although I do understand the benefit to just doing all 4. I do like those tires, I think the added capability (and looks) would be awesome and the price was lower than expected.. I will probably be adding those to the list of options.

Unsure on how much boondocking we will do, although I do want to. I would really like a good generator to ensure we can have a comfortable experience, just have to lobby the wife for the funding lol a good inverter will likely be in the works though!

muzupan · Aug 17, 2017

Mitag3 said:
Thank you, I was quite surprised at the condition of this thing for the year as well. Only thing needing looked at really is the awning. We have a good table for this but could probably use a little higher quality set of chairs, good call.

Another spare for the camper is probably a pretty good idea, could keep it in the back with the tools and stuff so it wouldn't be much of an issue.

I had an issue with 1 back tire maybe a couple thousand miles ago so I replaced both of the back ones at the time so for cost reasons I will likely just replace the back ones, although I do understand the benefit to just doing all 4. I do like those tires, I think the added capability (and looks) would be awesome and the price was lower than expected.. I will probably be adding those to the list of options.

Unsure on how much boondocking we will do, although I do want to. I would really like a good generator to ensure we can have a comfortable experience, just have to lobby the wife for the funding lol a good inverter will likely be in the works though!

I purchased a 30 amp rv ready Champion generator in case I ever need it. It runs about 9 hours on a tank of gas. I paid less than 300 for it. Caught it on sale at Cabelas. It coame with a 3 yr warranty.

Mitag3 · Aug 17, 2017

muzupan said:
I purchased a 30 amp rv ready Champion generator in case I ever need it. It runs about 9 hours on a tank of gas. I paid less than 300 for it. Caught it on sale at Cabelas. It coame with a 3 yr warranty.

Yeah that's probably about what I'd be looking for. Catching a good deal at somewhere like that or craigslist is probably where I'll end up getting one. I'm pretty uneducated in terms of camper power draws, is a 30amp RV ready generator sufficient for running air conditioning without burning anything up over night?

Skrap · Aug 18, 2017

On the generator. Champion has come a long way. On the RV forums the Inverter line of Champion generators are very popular. Do not get the open cage contractor type of generator. They are very loud. Even if you are by your self in the middle of nowhere do you want to listen to a loud generator? I bought the 3400 watt Dual Fuel Champion that is RV ready for $1050 Shipped. It is a hair louder than the Honda EU3000 but it is also almost 1/3 the cost and i get Dual FUel and more watts.

You may find yourself happy that you bought a generator for your trip and IMO every many should have some kind of Generator at home for emergencies. Here is where i bought mind from but were having a $100 off sale at the time.

https://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Champion-100263-Portable-Generator/p67309.html

muzupan · Aug 18, 2017

Mitag3 said:
Yeah that's probably about what I'd be looking for. Catching a good deal at somewhere like that or craigslist is probably where I'll end up getting one. I'm pretty uneducated in terms of camper power draws, is a 30amp RV ready generator sufficient for running air conditioning without burning anything up over night?

30 Amps will run one air conditioner in your trailer just fine. My last trailer was a 30 amp trailer and it was a little bit bigger than your trailer.

silver surfer · Aug 18, 2017

3000 watts and 30 amps will run air conditioner, but not any other high draw appliances at the same time, such as microwave or toaster or coffee maker.

Mitag3 · Aug 19, 2017

Update!

So my day started...awesome (not). Went to hook up the trailer to go get it weighed. Noticed a weird little black clip on a wire attached to the safety chain and a black box on the frame was unplugged so I put that back in and taped it in place temporarily, got all the stabilizers up, blocks put away, hooked it up and went to move and the thing didn't even budge... weird. Just installed the trailer brake controller so I'm thinking maybe I did something wrong. Checked the voltages all over, everything A-ok.. hmm. Unplug, plug back in, still nothing. Unplug and try, still no.. f*ck. So I go home, grab a bunch of tools, jacks, stands, etc and head back. Put all the blocks back out, stabilize the unit, jack up one side, get all the nuts loose and lubricate a few things. "Hmm I have some zip ties in here maybe I should zip tie that plug in real quick since the tape looks ghetto." Snug up the plug and I hear a click come from the unit and the monitor inside beeps at me... odd. Walk back over and go to remove a wheel to get at the brakes and its freaking spinning freely now. 45 minutes of my life in 90 degree weather could have been avoided by (2) 6" zip ties, awesome.

So my brake controller is a Draw-Tite 5535 Trailer Brake Control (I-Command Electronic - Proportional) and an adapter for my truck.. kinda. Basically there are 4 wires I had to find and tap into, install would be very easy if you know what you're looking for, and the cost was less than $70. If anyone has any questions about going this route let me know. I am satisfied with this controller and have the gain set at 6 with boost set at 1 (initial braking is 1.2/6 gain). I feel this is a solid compromise between not locking the tires up at low speed quick stops (25mph ish) and strong controlled braking at highway speeds.

Here are the weights I got today and the numbers I was going off of.
I found my GCVWR from a PDF put out by RAM, here's an example of what I found as a regular website but for a 2015 which was actually a couple hundred pounds higher: https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/towing_guide/pdf/2015_ram_1500_towing_charts.pdf. So judging from the PDF my trucks GCVWR is either 14,150 or 15,650 depending on my rear axle gear ratio of either 3.55 or 3.92. I scoured the axle looking for this info to no avail, anyone know where to get this??

Judging from these numbers, if I'm reading them correctly, I have about 1,430#'s left for my GCVWR if its the lower 14,150 number. I have about 600#'s left for both of the GAWR. The tire ratings I'm not too worried about since my aftermarket tires are rated higher but if I compare rear axle weights I have about 500lbs of payload left.

So of the 1430#'s of GCVWR left the only stuff missing from these weights is ~160's of wife, any liquid in the campers' tanks (which will probably remain empty for traveling anyway), and clothes/camping gear. The camper already has a bunch of pots, pans, blankets, etc from the previous owners so the heavy stuff is already there. If my wife finds a way to pack about 1,200#'s of clothes i'll probably stay home anyway lol

Anyone have any insights on this? Something I'm missing or reading wrong? Rear axle gear ratio insight? I'm pretty pumped about these results so far, I honestly thought I'd be a little closer to overweight than this so I'm thrilled.

mtofell · Aug 19, 2017

Your weights are looking pretty good and it sounds like you've done all the right things to tow near the upper limits (airbags, tires, etc.).

From the weights on the scale tag you should be fine with either axle ratio - but better to have the 3.92s for sure.

Keep in mind though the GCWR and axle thing is a separate thing entirely from the payload. The GCWR is how much the truck can pull. The payload is how much it can carry.

For a little contrast, I was out with a buddy this weekend with a 1500 Ram he just got. Great truck - Limited with all the bells and whistles. Problem is those are some heavy bells and whistles. I grabbed a peek at his door tag and his payload was 1089#. Full bed of firewood and supplies, 28' loaded up TT - he was probably close to double the payload. All he could tell me is the truck, "can tow 10,000#" and his trailer weighs 8000# :whymewhyme:

muzupan · Aug 19, 2017

Mitag3 said:
So my day started...awesome (not). Went to hook up the trailer to go get it weighed. Noticed a weird little black clip on a wire attached to the safety chain and a black box on the frame was unplugged so I put that back in and taped it in place temporarily, got all the stabilizers up, blocks put away, hooked it up and went to move and the thing didn't even budge... weird. Just installed the trailer brake controller so I'm thinking maybe I did something wrong. Checked the voltages all over, everything A-ok.. hmm. Unplug, plug back in, still nothing. Unplug and try, still no.. f*ck. So I go home, grab a bunch of tools, jacks, stands, etc and head back. Put all the blocks back out, stabilize the unit, jack up one side, get all the nuts loose and lubricate a few things. "Hmm I have some zip ties in here maybe I should zip tie that plug in real quick since the tape looks ghetto." Snug up the plug and I hear a click come from the unit and the monitor inside beeps at me... odd. Walk back over and go to remove a wheel to get at the brakes and its freaking spinning freely now. 45 minutes of my life in 90 degree weather could have been avoided by (2) 6" zip ties, awesome.

So my brake controller is a Draw-Tite 5535 Trailer Brake Control (I-Command Electronic - Proportional) and an adapter for my truck.. kinda. Basically there are 4 wires I had to find and tap into, install would be very easy if you know what you're looking for, and the cost was less than $70. If anyone has any questions about going this route let me know. I am satisfied with this controller and have the gain set at 6 with boost set at 1 (initial braking is 1.2/6 gain). I feel this is a solid compromise between not locking the tires up at low speed quick stops (25mph ish) and strong controlled braking at highway speeds.

Here are the weights I got today and the numbers I was going off of.
I found my GCVWR from a PDF put out by RAM, here's an example of what I found as a regular website but for a 2015 which was actually a couple hundred pounds higher: https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/towing_guide/pdf/2015_ram_1500_towing_charts.pdf. So judging from the PDF my trucks GCVWR is either 14,150 or 15,650 depending on my rear axle gear ratio of either 3.55 or 3.92. I scoured the axle looking for this info to no avail, anyone know where to get this??

Judging from these numbers, if I'm reading them correctly, I have about 1,430#'s left for my GCVWR if its the lower 14,150 number. I have about 600#'s left for both of the GAWR. The tire ratings I'm not too worried about since my aftermarket tires are rated higher but if I compare rear axle weights I have about 500lbs of payload left.

So of the 1430#'s of GCVWR left the only stuff missing from these weights is ~160's of wife, any liquid in the campers' tanks (which will probably remain empty for traveling anyway), and clothes/camping gear. The camper already has a bunch of pots, pans, blankets, etc from the previous owners so the heavy stuff is already there. If my wife finds a way to pack about 1,200#'s of clothes i'll probably stay home anyway lol

Anyone have any insights on this? Something I'm missing or reading wrong? Rear axle gear ratio insight? I'm pretty pumped about these results so far, I honestly thought I'd be a little closer to overweight than this so I'm thrilled.

According to the weight of your truck with the Tongue weight of the trailer you almost are at your GVWR of 6800lbs and almost out of payload. Your weight on the front axle rear axle and rear axle weight with the tounge weight with the trailer attached your at 6620 pounds which is 180 pounds less than your GVRW of 6800 pounds. Your truck weight without the trailer attached according to the scale was 5860 pounds can you subtract that from GVWR of 6800 pounds your payload is only 940 pounds even though the sticker says 1389 pounds of payload. Yes, you are below axle weight and GCVWR That is one of the shortcomings of the 1500. You can definitely pull your trailer with the truck but if you’re worried about all the numbers you’re at the Max right now with payload an GVWR..I had to fight this with my trailer and my 1500 until I bumped it up to a three-quarter ton truck. That little box that had the silver cord pulled out that was the emergency brake box to lock activate the brakes on the trailer in case the trailer ever breaks from the truck.

New Camper! Long trip planned, thoughts?

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