New to trailering

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Phlash_riot

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Hello all!
Just bought a 13 quad cab 4x4 HDMI express about a week ago. Just before I bought it I noticed that it had the hitch delete. No biggy, I had them add one of them to the purchase for mopar parts. I installed it myself in About 10 minutes. According to the dealer is I allowed somewhere around 12000 lbs towing with the hitch limited to 10000 or so with my vehicles setup (3.9x rear gears).
So all seems well but I have been doing some research and it appears that unless I have other equipment I still can't surpass the original bumper towing rating.(5000 lbs)
I am going to be hauling a 1969 AMC AMX from TX to WA with a uhaul car trailer. after that I will be purchasing a tandem axle trailer and hauling it to various places for show.
So.. Am I safe? Should I weld the hitch to the frame? I haven't bought a ball and the receiver yet, should I get some sort of special ball setup or adjustable one?
The AMX curb weight is about 3250 and uhaul says their trailer is about 2200
Thanks for any info. My wife and two kids are going with me on the trip and I want to ensure safety But not go overboard for no real reason. Thanks again
 

65Bowtie

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Welding will weaken the frame due to heat and molicule displacement without tempuring. That should be fine to do a simple tow. Personally, and in reference to the equipment required I would get a weight distribution hitch. This will allow you to get to the max hitch tow rating, make the trailer easier to handle in cross winds and other sorted encounters. A good hitch will also allow you to adjust for proper ride height to keep the trailer level, and ball angle.

I have towed all over the country due to my military mandatory change of stationing and still prefer this method. Without a WD hitch load bias is much more important, sway is more exadurated and proper hitch drop selection can get pricy.
 
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Phlash_riot

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Thanks for the info!!!
I am looking at wight distribution hitches right now. anyone have recommendations on a good quality on that i can use for up to 10k lbs?
or anything else i should consider to get before i do this trip.
 

Ocelot

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I use the Equalizer brand weight dist hitch and love it. Super simple with no chans and built in sway control.

Also on the truck hitch...I'm not sure about the 2013, but on my 2011, one bolt is on the bumper, but the receiver isn't actually supported by the bumper alone. It's also bolted to the cross bar which is the actual hitch support and part of the frame. I think the 5000, is when you just put a ball on the hole in the bumper.

Ray
 

audio1der

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What class rating is the hitch assembly they sold you? If its a claa IV it should be rated for 10,000lbs when properly installed.
 

wermbang

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I use a Quality S hitch, its a heavy SOB.
 
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Phlash_riot

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Its a class IV hitch. its the factory bolt on. same as the stock but not welded like the stock but its connected to the same subframe cross member.

Anyone heard anything about the Timbren SES. a buddy of mine uses them on his 2500 towing a 33' camper and said that his ride sits flat now with them. he advised them to me after saying that the uhaul car carrier trailer may not accept a load distribution hitch based on the way they are built with a long neck or something...


Ohh yea the numbers for the 5000 loading with the bolted on hitch are from the ram website towing pdf saying that max towing with either setup is 5000 unless you have weight distro then you can do more the the hitch than you can with the bumper. that statement is what sparked my attention that i might need to find out and get more equipment...

I am not towing anything until August so i have time to research before i go at it.
 
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Phlash_riot

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i just came across the detailsof the hitch:

Hitch Receiver
Part # 82213205Category: Carriers & Cargo Hauling Accessories
MSRP $130.00 Price may vary by dealer

Designed as a one-piece welded assembly for added strength over multiple piece designs, Mopar Hitch Receivers match your vehicle`s towing capacity/uses. Covered with two-layered, E-coated paint finish to resist rust. All Mopar hitches pass Chrysler`s extensive road testing for durability and strength.
Additional Details: 12,000-lb tow rating, 1,200-lb tongue weight rating with weight distributing equipment; otherwise 5,000-lb. tow rating, 500-lb tongue weight rating, includes receiver plug, 2.0" opening, Hitch Ball and Ball mount sold separately. Hitch Harness not needed as all trucks are already wired.
Disclosure(s) :Check Owner`s Manual for hitch type, load capacity and heavy-duty equipment required. Do not exceed rated tow capacity of vehicle stated in Owner`s Manual. May require other items not supplied by Mopar.
 

smiley87

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I second the equalizer brand. It's an awesome setup. I tow a 22 foot travel trailer that's 5500 pounds loaded and love the weight distributing hitch. Another option is the Reese dual cam setup
 

audio1der

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There you go; buy a WD setup and you're golden.
As for the Timbren SES, I tried it last year. The rear end sag of the truck (with full Reese WD hitch properly set up) made the Timbren springs sit on the axle THE WHOLE TIME the trailer was hooked up. They transmitted every bump, crack and dip and the road through the cabin of the truck and made the ride unbearable (it did make the wife's goodies jiggle nicely when she was trying to sleep but that was just distracting). I took them off after towing once. I bought a set of Arilift 1000 bags to replace the Timbrens but have not installed them yet (next week). I can't help but think the bags will be better.
The Timbrens would be fine if they allowed for more sag before engaging, and were more progressive. If you really want to try them I have a set for sale for $100 :wave:
 
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Phlash_riot

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Thanks all for the info. I just came across some new information. the bolt on hitch that I have is a classa 3 hitch with a max of 500lbs TW and 5000 GTW. so i am going to take that off since i am a military guy i am all about going overboard on safety and I will be purchasing a CURT Class V hitch #15572 then i wont have the worry in the back of my head. I am going get the trailer on the truck and loaded the trailer see how much sag i get and if it is alot then going to get a set of air bags for the rear to compensate for sagging.
Anyone that has towed ~5500lbs know if the rear sag is a worry let me know and also i need to know what size drop hitch i need tro puchase or should i just go with a nice adjustable one. any reccommendations on eigther would be appreciated. Thanks again all!!!!
 

Ocelot

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I have the bolt on also, but the rating is higher:
6000/600
10,000/1000 with weight distribution.
It's This one: Curt Trailer Hitch for Ram 1500 2011 - 13333

The drop will depend on whether your using weight distribution, what kind and the actual trailer tongue height itself.

For example, When I went from my Chevy to the Ram, I had to but a new shank with a bigger drop for my Equalizer brand hitch. I needed a Equalizer Wt Dist Shank - 12 L - 10 Rise/6 Drop

If you do go with the weight distribution, and I HIGHLY recommend it, You won't be buying a regular ball mount anyway. Well, except for a spare to use with random trailers without weight distribution.

This is the Shank I use (Solid and heavy)
Equal-i-zer Weight Dist Shank - 12" Long - 10" Rise, 6" Drop - 600 to 1,400 lbs TW Equal-i-zer Accessories and Parts EQ90-02-4300

This is the Equalizer brand hitch:
Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution System w/ 4-Point Sway Control - 10,000 lbs GTW, 1,000 lbs TW Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution EQ90-00-1000
But note that it comes with the standard shank which I used with my old truck. I then bought the drop shank. If you went with something like that, you could probably order it with the size shank you need.

Ray
 

TRCM

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5500 lbs has some bad rear end sag if you dont have a weight distributing hitch.

And you better check your owners manual for max weights.....I think the 12k the dealer said the truck wpould pull is a little high

Also make sure you follow the break in requirements....you may find you have to have a lot of miles on it before you can tow
 
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65Bowtie

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It would be impossible for anyone of us to tell you what drop you will need. Though the stock trucks are all similar heights all trailers vary a bit. My suggestion would be for you to hook to your trailer with what you have, measure, then get the appropriate raise or drop depending on what hitch you used for the measurement.

Ocelot, that is a great drop you have, very sturdy. Like I have said before I prefer a W/D hitch on any trailer that will take them. Hell, I even had a nice V-nose for my last 2 Military moves and though the skirts came down to where I couldnt get at the frame for the cam's on the trailer frame I went old style. Mount plates on each side of the frames with little J hooks for the chains. The way those work is to hook to the truck, jack the trailer/truck all the way up, hook the chains up to the J hooks and lower it back down. Sounds easy unless you consider my rolling weight was 25,000 lbs and once I finally got to Moody AFB GA from AK it was about a 90 degrees and a billion percent humidity.

What I am getting at, is I believe in W/D hitches so much that I will go to any measure to use them on most any trailer I can and I can relate to the OP with how us military troops push things to the limit and beyond.
 

Red 2012 Crew

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The Equalizer is the best hitch you can buy. I've been towing since I started driving and there is no better hitch than it. It comes with an adjustable shank so you can adjust the ride height you need. I tow my 8500lb toy hauler with 1000lbs of hitch weight with my 1500 and the hitch makes it easy.
 

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