Shocker Hitch - Anyone ever used one?

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Hemi450hp

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Receiver Air Hitch

This is a hitch with a built in airbag to absorb any bumps from the truck or the trailer. When puling my regular cab, the ride is pretty bouncy, so I am looking to not only step up to a better set of bags on the truck itself, but am considering adding this hitch as well. Has anyone here used one before?
 

Glowrdr

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Interesting idea - I've seen a few styles like this before (maybe they were this one, just going off that I've seen a hitch with bags before) I know in my CC - the ride smoothes right out with a load. Not sure if this would help or hurt that aspect of it.

The price is right though if this isn't just a gimmick
 
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Dubstep Shep

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Not a fan of this... The tongue of the trailer should be suspended by the truck suspension and nothing else. If it's too bouncy, then you need a better setup on the truck IMO.
 
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Hemi450hp

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Unloaded, my truck rides fine. With an empty trailer, its bouncing all over the road, but gets better when I put air in the airlift 1000 bags. With the trailer loaded, it does ride smoother than empty, but still rougher than when I am not hooked up to the trailer.

My first plan of attack was to go with a stronger airbag setup for the truck, but was just curious to see if anyone has used this as a plan B. It says it will handle 12,000lbs which is about 4000lbs more than I will ever pull with this truck.
 

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More gimmick than anything, like Dubstep stated, the truck's suspension should handle the trailer, if it's too bouncy, change the set up on the truck.
If you tow trailers with surge brakes(usable for any trailer), a cushioned ball mount does help with the back and forth "bumping" of the trailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Convert-A-Ball/AMSC2.html
 

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One of the OG's on here had one and swore by it. The physics make sense if you don't need weight distribution.
 

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One of the OG's on here had one and swore by it. The physics make sense if you don't need weight distribution.
If you tow 8k, like the OP stated he would, weight distribution is a must.

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I don't see how that would work with a WDH. Another over 5000# trailer weight should be using a WDH.
 

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Also never been a fan of weight distributing hitches either. Some people swear by them, but I've used them and it just feels like a band-aid to me. I'd rather have a truck that's properly set up to handle the tongue load.
 

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Also never been a fan of weight distributing hitches either. Some people swear by them, but I've used them and it just feels like a band-aid to me. I'd rather have a truck that's properly set up to handle the tongue load.

I couldn't agree more.
 

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If I were you I'd jump to the airlift 5000 bags. I had the airlift 1000 on my 2014 and it was bouncy. They simply weren't strong enough, but for $80 you can't expect them to be. If the airlift 5000 had been out when I was looking I would have bought them in a heartbeat. Unfortunately for me the 1000 was the only thing available at the time.

Fast forward to my 2016 with the 4 corner air suspension. Tows a whole lot better than my 2014. The truck is smooth as butter, actually smoother than when unloaded, plus no bounce at all. It's fantastic! I'd imagine the airlift 5000 will be similar.

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Where I'm running into a problem is that I dont want to give up my lowering kit. I have a call in to Airlift already to see if we can put a kit together using their 5000 system but with shorter bags to work with my 3" rear drop.
 

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Also never been a fan of weight distributing hitches either. Some people swear by them, but I've used them and it just feels like a band-aid to me. I'd rather have a truck that's properly set up to handle the tongue load.
How do you set up a truck to "handle the tongue load"?
There is more to hitching up a trailer than whether or not the back of the truck squats.
Even towing a 7K trailer with 2500 CTD, a WDH makes a difference and is needed.
 

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I pulled a 8000# trailer with my 1/2 ton Toyota Tundra. The truck did suffer some bouncing over uneven areas on the road like bridge crossing. I added a heavy duty weight distribution hitch and not only did it solve the bouncing but brought my truck back to normal driving position (slightly low in the front). When in doubt take it to your local RV dealer and tell them your problem and they'll make a recommendation. Undoubtedly it'll be a weight distribution hitch with the appropriate rating for your truck and application. Have them set it up initially and take note of the exact link position of the chain or you'll just be farting in a windstorm like the ^.
 

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Where I'm running into a problem is that I dont want to give up my lowering kit. I have a call in to Airlift already to see if we can put a kit together using their 5000 system but with shorter bags to work with my 3" rear drop.
Ahh, yes I didn't remember the lowering kit you've got. Hopefully they'll work with you on something for it!

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RV . Net may have more people with direct Experience with this type product. A good site for towing experience .

Cheers
 

Dubstep Shep

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How do you set up a truck to "handle the tongue load"?
There is more to hitching up a trailer than whether or not the back of the truck squats.
Even towing a 7K trailer with 2500 CTD, a WDH makes a difference and is needed.

Ever driven up or down a somewhat steep change in incline with a WDH? I have. The back wheels come off the ground and it's SUPER sketchy. Luckily that was just a drive way and I was headed downhill anyways.

The proper way to set something up is to load directly above the rear axle and put the full tongue weight on that axle, like how a gooseneck does. Loading a trailer at the rear hitch actually takes weight OFF the front end of the truck, though if you have it leveled correctly with support bags, the change is minimal, even for maximum tongue weights.

I've put 1,500 lbs of tongue weight and stuff in the bed of my truck before and it town like a dream because I have the trailer and airbags set up correctly. I'm not limited with my mobility like with a WDH, not do I have the overly complex loading system it causes. I have an increased spring rate to go along with the increased load, so my suspension handles the load and pulls it like a dream.
 

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Ever driven up or down a somewhat steep change in incline with a WDH? I have. The back wheels come off the ground and it's SUPER sketchy. Luckily that was just a drive way and I was headed downhill anyways.

The proper way to set something up is to load directly above the rear axle and put the full tongue weight on that axle, like how a gooseneck does. Loading a trailer at the rear hitch actually takes weight OFF the front end of the truck, though if you have it leveled correctly with support bags, the change is minimal, even for maximum tongue weights.

Weight applied over the rear axle is considered payload, it is not tongue weight anymore.
In bed hitches(gooseneck, fifth-wheels) when installed properly are forward of the rear axle which changes the physics of how the weight of the trailer affects your truck.
Bumper towed trailers apply tongue weight which is behind the rear axle. WDH "move" the tongue weight forward to load weight on the front wheels. They not only help with the sag but if any hard breaking is required keep the trailer from using the rear axle as a fulcrum. When you brake hard with any vehicle, the front of the vehicle dives as the inertia loads the front wheels, a trailer will do the same thing only it is pushing down on the back of the vehicle. Given the hitch point is about 3 feet behind the rear wheels, it will act like a giant lever without a WDH. With those physics applied, the front end goes light.
The correct way to set up a WDH is to run the truck and trailer over scales to see where the weight is.
Odds are if a WDH lifted your back wheels off the ground, it was probably set way too nose heavy or the trailer suffer damage from bottoming due to the massive indifference in the elevation. A situation like you described would not happen on the roads while your traveling. If tight maneuvering is required, it takes all of two minutes to release the WDH.
 

Dubstep Shep

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Actually, the reason that vehicles dive is because the center of gravity is above the braking force. With a trailer, this braking force is the hitch to a great extent, even on trailers with brakes. What that means is trailers don't dive quite like trucks and vehicles do.

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rblakes1

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I have used one for the past few years hauling a 6x12 enclosed trailer for work - filled with tools and supplies. What it really does is helps alleviate the transmittance of vibrations and bumps from the trailer to the truck. There is a noticeable difference going from a dtandard receiver to the shocker hitch.

Can you still tell you have a trailer? Yes, but it makes it much more tolerable, especially when you tow almost daily.

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