WD Hitch Solution?

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zflat

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Couldn't use that one with an Equalizer WDH, but would work fine for standard trailer hitch..

Care to elaborate? I have a EAZ-lift and if the answer to the two questions above are yes, then I don't see why my WDH wouldn't bolt right up unless you know something I don't know...
 

BlkZrx

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Care to elaborate? I have a EAZ-lift and if the answer to the two questions above are yes, then I don't see why my WDH wouldn't bolt right up unless you know something I don't know...

Equalizer uses a forcing bolt and shim to angle the ball, their shank is square stock, steel. The shank posted by 2016HD isn't flat faced. The bolt and shim wouldn't fit properly..
 

2015HD

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Sorry man, mine narrows to 2" where hitch head connects to shank. The slamming FWD and back happened to me last year when I borrowed my buddy's WD hitch. Turns out the unit was an older style that used washers to fill the tilt space. There were not enough washers and the snug (proper term?) bolt was loose. I invested about $350 in my new WD setup.

I'll post the hitch I got to match my shank tomorrow (if you are interested).
 

2015HD

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I guess I spent a little more than $350 all together.. Don't tell my wife ;)
 
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zflat

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I guess I spent a little more than $350 all together.. Don't tell my wife ;)

Thanks for all the info. I'm going to ride what I've got on a longer trip, as I've only pulled it from the storage unit to my house and back thus far (about 25 miles total) before I make a decision.

I REALLY don't want to invest anymore than $100-$200 dollars as I bought the trailer 2 months ago, then upgraded to a 2500 (from a 2016 1500 no less) and I got hosed at the TT dealership with $600+ in "hitch work" which only involved me getting the cheapest WDH they sell and a half assed set up job. $350 would get the wife a murder charge right now if she found out after upgrading the truck ;)

I'm going to keep researching and also look into getting the sleeve welded to a larger drop. I encourage anyone who has a better setup to pitch in, otherwise I'll let you guys know when/if I find a better solution.
 

BoldAdventure

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EZ suck or cheapo WD setups are a joke. I am using a Reese Dual Cam WD/Anti-Sway setup with 800lb trunnion style bars. I do feel it is a better setup, and you will need to invest in a better setup if you want better performance.

attachment.jpg

I've got some numbers to show how easy it is to dial in properly your WD setup and distribute. The scales tell the truth. Stop posting and go get some numbers. Your nose being height probably means to much load on the trailer and you need to tilt the hitch head towards the tow vehicle.


First pass, just the truck loaded with all of us and some gear.
Steer: 4620 .lbs
Drive: 3740 .lbs
Gross: 8360 .lbs

Second pass, truck and Airstream but no weight distribution applied.
Steer: 4180 .lbs
Drive: 5140 .lbs
Trailer: 6780 .lbs
Gross: 16100 .lbs

So tongue weight is 960 lbs. Not bad.

Third pass, truck + Airstream with weight distribution applied
Steer: 4580 lbs.
Drive: 4620 lbs.
Trailer: 6900 lbs.
Gross: 16100 lbs.

Damn near perfect FALR. (Forward Axle Load Return) You'll notice that with the WD not applied the front weighs less than the trail unhitched. And with the WD applied, it's almost what it was unhitched. And the weight on the back axle is reduced, with some load spread between and some sent back to the Airstream.

Everything is within the axle and tire ratings along with Gross Combined ratings for the truck.

As for hitch height, you need to make sure that is dialed in correctly too. Guys add Airbags and stuff before ever setting up their hitch properly. I'm using a 5 3/4 inch drop and I am not nose high: http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Reese/RP54977.html

So you need to dial in as close as possible first, with proper weights to tell you what's going on. If it's still high, then you can consider a new shank. Don't rush out and buy a 8 inch drop when your load might still be unbalanced.

On Level Surface:

Unhitch and take measurements at the front and rear wheel wells. Measured the hitch height to the inside top of the ball receiver of the trailer, then measured the height to the top of the ball of the truck. You then add 1/8" per 100 lbs of tongue weight to the ball height needed on the truck.

Hitch should be an inch higher than the trailer, but it might be higher.

12724709_788326101297649_73697482_n.jpg
 
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audio1der

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^ Great post.
Although I have one, I am not biased towards the Reese DCSC becasue of that. Short of the Propride hitch, the physics behind what the Reese setup does it solid, and has zero smoke or mirrors.

A salesman tried to "up-sell" me into a Blue Ox setup a couple years ago. It's a fine hitch, but in no way better than the Reese DCSC. I like the Equalizer design but have not seen it in person.
 

Stampederfan

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^ Great post.
Although I have one, I am not biased towards the Reese DCSC becasue of that. Short of the Propride hitch, the physics behind what the Reese setup does it solid, and has zero smoke or mirrors.

A salesman tried to "up-sell" me into a Blue Ox setup a couple years ago. It's a fine hitch, but in no way better than the Reese DCSC. I like the Equalizer design but have not seen it in person.

The Equalizer works really well. Had one for my 2013 F150 Ecoboost pulling a 34'9" TT. Hitch was the 10,000 lb unit with 1000 lb spring bars. Was set up great by the TT dealership, everything level and no sway at all. TT is 7000 lb loaded. I'm using the same hitch with the sleeve and a drop shank my trailer service guy picked out. He reset the hitch up for my 2500. Haven't hauled with it yet but will be headed down to Waterton Lakes National Park this weekend. I'll know if it's level they took the time to do it right and if the bars are properly tensioned when I hook up. Fingers crossed on the new set-up......
 
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