Dodge Gauge Information

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stodg73

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Cummins
When you are looking for gauges for your Dodge Cummins truck, you need to decide what type that you want. Do you want mechanical or electronic, digital or analog/dial. Both have their good and bad points. You are the one who needs to decide as to what type of gauges that you want. You can ask for opinions as to who likes theirs the best, yet you are the one purchasing the gauge set.

At the minimum, the gauges needed for a stock truck are: Fuel Pressure, EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature), Boost, and for Automatic Transmission owners, Trans. Temp.

For fuel pressure, a gauge that goes from 0 – 30 psi will do fine. If using an electronic gauge, you need either a snubber hose and/or a needle valve. The snubber hose is just a grease gun extension to move the sender away from the vibrations of the engine, make sure that there is a 90* bend in the hose to help alleviate the `water hammer’ effect of the IP. A needle valve from NAPA, part number WH6820, will do, also with the needle valve you can shut off the diesel from coming into the cab, if using a mechanical gauge. You will also need a tapped banjo bolt to attach to the post fuel filter for fuel pressure. You will also need a 1/8” – 27 pipe union, depending on your gauge set. With an electronic gauge there is no diesel fuel in the cab. With a mechanical gauge, there is the possibility of fuel being introduced into the cab. Also, with the mechanical gauges, there are isolators that are filled with antifreeze to keep diesel away from the cab.

snubberhose.jpg
Typical Snubber Hose

NeedleValves7.jpg
Typical Needle Valves

Parts list:
Fuel pressure gauge, mechanical or electronic, complete kit
Snubber hose, grease gun hose.
1/8” – 27 pipe union, preferably brass, steel will work.
Teflon tape
Tapped banjo bolt
Needle valve, NAPA part number WH6820
Multiple cable/zip ties


For EGT, a digital gauge will give you an almost instantaneous readout of the temperature, and a mechanical gauge will be a little slower. To put the probe into the exhaust manifold, mark the manifold into quarters, drill in the back 1/4 of the manifold. This will put the probe in the back cylinders, as these are the ones that generally run hotter. When tapping the exhaust manifold, go into the manifold about 4 threads on the tap, then take the tap out and check to see if you get a good seat for the probe. The reason that you do this is to prevent a blowout of the probe as the NPT threads are slightly angled to get a seal. When drilling and tapping, you can use multiple methods of cleaning out the shavings, you can use a shop vacuum while drilling and tapping, or use grease on the bit and tap to catch the shavings, changing the grease multiple times. When done drilling and tapping, use a magnet to get as much of the filings out of the manifold as possible, then you can start up the truck and blow the rest out the exhaust through the turbo. Another method is taking the exhaust manifold off the truck and drilling/tapping on a bench.

drillingexhaustmanifold1.jpg
EGT Probe Site, with magnet cleanout of shavings

EGTPlacementPreandPostTurbo.jpg
EGT Probe Placement, you can see a plug in the downpipe, where the temperature difference is 300* +.

Parts List:
EGT gauge, mechanical or electronic, complete kit
Appropriate drills and taps, per kit
Multiple cable/zip ties


For the boost gauge, you can either tap the intake horn, or use a boost bolt. For tapping the intake horn, you need to take the horn off so that no shavings get into to engine. Using a boost bolt, you just replace one of the bolts holding on the intake manifold cover. The boost bolt is tapped inside so that you can easily place the sender. Be careful about over tightening the boost bolt as it is very thin metal, torque to 18 ft lbs.

Parts List:
Electronic or Mechanical gauge, complete kit
Boost Bolt or drill and tapping supplies
Teflon Tape
Multiple cable/zip ties
Possibly need a 2” 1/8” – 27 nipple and union to raise the sensor up to tighten


For the transmission temperature gauge, depending you your transmission, and if you have put a different/larger pan on, is where you will be able to put the sensor. When doing this, it would be appropriate to change you ATF and filter, and also possibly putting in a better valve body, and/or torque converter. The location of the gauge will affect the temperature reading, i.e. if put into the return line from the cooler, put in the hot line before the cooler, installed in the bottom of the pan, installed in the side of the pan, etc. These readings can be significantly different.

Parts List:
Electronic or Mechanical gauge, complete kit
Appropriate drill/tapping supplies
Teflon tape
Multiple cable/zip ties


Now, for the fuel pressure gauge on VP-44 trucks, you need to keep your lift pump pressure above 10 psi, most try to keep it above 14 psi at idle. By doing so, you are attempting to lengthen the life of the VP-44 injection pump, you can also add a lubricant to your fuel, i.e. TCW-3 2 stroke oil, Howe’s Diesel Lubricant, etc., yet you need to do the research and decide for yourself what you want to use or not use. If you see a pressure of 10 psi or less, you need to replace the lift pump. There are many manufacturers of lift pumps available to choose from; i.e. Raptor, AirDog, FASS, etc. Be careful about purchasing any lift pump that mounts to the block, as the vibrations from the engine are harmful.

The EGT gauge lets you see how hard you are working the engine. The higher the temperature, the more fuel you are using. When you are working the engine, you need to keep in mind that aluminum melts at about 1250*. This means that you can have an EGT of 1250* for short periods of time, less than 30 seconds, before damage may begin. When you get up to these temperatures, it is better to downshift and bring the RPMs of the engine up in order to dissipate the heat from the engine before any damage occurs.

For the Boost gauge, a stock truck may produce up to 20 lbs of boost. When you start getting higher than this, you need to have some type of fooler/chip on the vehicle in order to not throw any DTC error codes.

For the transmission temperature gauge, cooler is better. What I mean by this is that a transmission that runs at 150* will last longer than one run at 220*, because heat reduces the longevity of the internal components.

When hooking up the power inside the truck, use a test light to see if you can find an ignition controlled fuse, either in the inside fuse panel or under the hood, same with constant power, try not to come straight from the battery. For the gauge illumination lights controlled by the headlight switch, this may be tough for the test light may be dim in direct sunlight and you may not be able to see it illuminate, and look in the interior fuse panel for this. If you use the interior fuse panel, get some add-a-fuses to make the job easier. For some vehicles, you may have to tap into the headlight wiring harness under the dash. When I mounted my gauges, I used a separate fuse block to run constant power, ignition, and headlight power to. This way I only had to run one wire from each to the new block, and fused them accordingly. When finding a ground for everything, find a likely spot and use a self tapping screw to hold the ground wires down.

Depending on where you mount the gauges, be it on the A pillar, a gauge cluster on the dash, or elsewhere, please take into consideration that you may need to lengthen the wiring accordingly. Be ready to use either solderless connectors or soldered connectors for the ends of the wires. Also, you can also use heat shrink tubing to control the wires and make them easier to run/place.

To purchase certain parts, please use the vendors that are supporting the Forum.

Parts to be purchase from vendors:
Gauge packages/kits
Boost bolt
Tapped banjo bolt, this one is self tapped. The gauge is off centered.
BanjoBoltSelfTapped1.jpg
Snubber Hose
snubberhose.jpg
From NAPA needle valve part number WH6820
NeedleValves7.jpg
Add-A-Fuse
Add-A-FuseMini1.jpg


All other parts can be purchase from your local hardware store or local parts store.


For a list of suggested upgrades, read here: Suggested Upgrades

This is mainly for the VP 44 trucks, however you can use almost all this information for any truck to install gauges.
 

wermbang

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2001 Off Road
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5.9L V8 Sport
From the link
Suggested Order of Upgrades for your Diesel.

In order to upgrade your diesel from stock, you should have a baseline of readings in order to know what has changed. Also, if you do multiple upgrades at one time and something goes wrong, you will not know which upgrade caused the problem or error code.

In order to know what is happening to the engine, you should have at the minimum compliment of aftermarket gauges. At the minimum for Dodges, you need a fuel pressure gauge, boost gauge, and EGT gauge. Those with automatic transmissions should also have a transmission temperature gauge. With these gauges and a stock engine you will proceed to gather information as to how well the engine is running. Starting with a baseline of readings, you will be able to determine what is happening to the engine and transmission as you add more upgrades.


The suggested order for upgrades should be as follows:
1. Gauges
2. Better intake, i.e. CAI, ram air, BHAF, etc.
3. Bigger exhaust, 4” is for about 500 HP, 5” for 500+ HP and deeper sound
4. Transmission, i.e. better clutch for manuals or stronger bands, billet input shaft, torque converter, valve body, etc. for auto’s
5. Fuel system
6. Larger injectors
7. Fueling box or chip, timing
8. Larger turbo/Compound turbos

By doing these upgrades in this suggested order, you will be able to know what is happening to your engine as they are being added.

With the addition of gauges, the next step is to get the air into and out of the engine, as diesels are large air pumps. The easier in, the easier out, the cooler the engine will run, i.e. lower EGT temps, and less of a chance of damaging the engine. Here is some more information about gauges: Gauge Information This is quite a read but well worth it.

Most transmissions are sometimes just barely able to hold the stock power that is produced. When you start upgrading the engine, the transmission will start to suffer. So upgrading the transmission before it is destroyed/slipping is easier than buying a new or replacement.

When upgrading the fuel system, you need to get a larger lift pump to supply more fuel to the injection pump. When doing this you should also upgrade the fuel delivery lines to a larger size. This is to allow or more fuel to be moved from the tank to the IP, and the excess fuel is returned to the tank along with cooling the injector pump.

The next upgrade should be injectors. Depending on your application is what type of injector that you will need. For Dodges with the VP-44 injection pump, the most common are RV275’s which give about 45 hp.

The fueling box/chip and timing promoter can be any number of manufacturers. Depending on your application, is what type of electronic device that you will want. With certain electronics, you can stack them with others. Therefore, whichever chip/programmer that you choose, be sure that you do your research.

Now, in considering a larger turbo, you need to think about the application. Also, think about twins, triples, or quads, these are also known as compound turbos. When going to a larger turbo, there comes into play the turbo lag. The spool up of the turbo may become a problem , as to making excess smoke when just applying light amounts of throttle. When using compound turbos, the smaller turbo fills in for the turbo lag of the larger one, making the smoke problem easier to control. Headstuds come into play here, as you get into higher boost numbers the stock headbolts may break, the head may be lifted off the block, or you might blow a head gasket. O-ringing or Fire ringing the head and block are also other considerations here. Heavier valve springs are also needed at some point.

Now, for those of you that are wanting to “smoke” people/other trucks out, doing these upgrades will make your truck smoke more and sometimes it will make the truck smoke longer, i.e. long trails of smoke. The caveat to all this is that you will be making more power and torque while doing this.

More information to be added.
 

ramhunter9

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Great write up !
 

MarbleCrusher

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Excellent info guys, this is a very commonly asked question. Only thing I would change in my book would be moving fuel system up to the #2 spot on the list for suggested upgrades that wermberg posted.

-Jordan-
 

Mopar1973Man

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The suggested order for upgrades should be as follows:
1. Gauges
2. Better intake, i.e. CAI, ram air, BHAF, etc.
3. Bigger exhaust, 4” is for about 500 HP, 5” for 500+ HP and deeper sound
4. Transmission, i.e. better clutch for manuals or stronger bands, billet input shaft, torque converter, valve body, etc. for auto’s
5. Fuel system
6. Larger injectors
7. Fueling box or chip, timing
8. Larger turbo/Compound turbos


I typically fix all the weak links before adding any power or fueling mods...

My typical order...

1. Gauges
2. Fuel system (100 GPH pump at least with 1/2" lines)
3. Transmission, i.e. better clutch for manuals or stronger bands, billet input shaft, torque converter, valve body, etc. for auto’s (Better clutch for manuals)

4. Fueling box or chip, timing

5. Better intake, i.e. CAI, ram air, BHAF, etc. (More so the BHAF)
6. Larger injectors

7. Bigger exhaust, 4” is for about 500 HP, 5” for 500+ HP and deeper sound
8. Larger turbo/Compound turbos
 

MarbleCrusher

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Thats about the order Ive done everthing, minus the fact I havent gotten injectors or even thought about upgrading the turbo

-Jordan-
 

ramhunter9

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I have gotten everything but 6 and 8
 

dripley

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2002 2500 ho 6 speed 4X4
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5.9 24v cummins
i am 6 and 8 poor my self. 8 maybe for christmas.
 

dripley

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Well I was enjoying RV275 injectors till the misfire problem got bad... (Cry)

is ther something wrong with them or is it something with the design of them that is causing the misfires?
 

Mopar1973Man

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is ther something wrong with them or is it something with the design of them that is causing the misfires?

400K plus miles they are just wore out... I got them from CajFlynn... When I had them poptested they showed a little sign of it... Now at full temp it dropping a cylinder almost constantly at idle but running down the road no issues.
 

dripley

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i thought you had got them from mr flynn. i figured i he had them there might be a few miles on them.
 
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