Couple questions regarding Emissions and AC

Rusted1984 · Mar 10, 2014

I was wondering if any one knew if a walk through or guide on removing emissions equipment from a 1st gen ram with a 318. I live in an area that does not require emissions and this will mainly be an off road vehicle only.

I'm not quite sure what hoses/parts etc can removed safely without any major complications.

Also, does any one make a AC delete kit for 1st gen rams? I have googled these topics but I can't seem find anything.

Thanks in Advance

Adam

rustydagger · Mar 10, 2014

What year do you have? The emissions systems changed a few times over the years. 89-93 had Throttle body injection instead of an carburetor, anything older than 89 should be easier to remove the emissions stuff.

A/c delete kits are hit and miss. I haven't been able to find one for my '73.

Some others should chime in soon with more opinions. Good luck to you!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

crazzywolfie · Mar 10, 2014

does the a/c work? no one really makes a a/c delete kit because most people want a/c. if it don't work and the lines are no longer under pressure you could just remove the lines and unplug the wires to the pump. is the truck 2wd or 4x4? if it is 2wd you only need like 2 or 3 vacuum lines and the rest could be removed.

Rusted1984 · Mar 10, 2014

This is exactly what I would like to do, I was a little afraid the 1st gen sub forum was dead!

It is a 2wd and then engine bay is a mess with vacuum lines, I would like to eliminate as much clutter as possible without risking any reliability issues.

Also..are you familiar with the old farmer style of ignition..? Where you pull a rod to start the truck...I hate and wondering how either to fix it or a suggestion for a push button start kit that works well and is relatively easy to install.

crazzywolfie · Mar 10, 2014

the first gen section aint dead but i do forget about it since it is so split up.

since your truck is 2wd with a/c there is only 4 vacuum line that i can think of that your truck needs to operate properly. 1 from carb to vacuum advance on distributor, 1 from intake to vacuum booster, 1 from intake to fire wall near heater hose and one from the firewall to the heater control valve on the heater hose.

does the truck had tilt steering wheel? installing a push button starter would actually be easy but i would try fixing what is wrong.

Rusted1984 · Mar 10, 2014

Well I think it would a giant pain in the rear to fix. What I think is the ignition box or controller: the rod I pull on the left side of the column to start the truck runs into this box approx the size a pack of cigarettes, with 6-8 wires coming out of it going to somewhere important I'm sure. I think it was a post you put up of a super clean interior/gauge cluster that I would semi replicate; As you can see I'm going for a very clean interior.

The key cylinder ( I think its called this? Where the key would go) is gone, its just a hole now. So i think it would be more cost/time effective (plus kinda cool to boot) to find an alternative to the traditional key setup.

As far as the vacuum lines/AC lines I know I need a Haynes manual like a son of a gun.... I think I can strip the AC and the rest of the EGR garbage out, I really wish there was some type of guide for this generation of trucks about cleaning up the engine bay...I'm a have a small case of OCD when it comes to clutter in the engine bay.. I have worked on many of my own FI cars but ironically these carbed vehicles escape my logic at times, I digress..

Thanks for all the info and taking the time to answer my questions, this is a project I started with my 7 year old son. I appreciate the patients and wisdom and hopefully you reading all of my reply.

crazzywolfie · Mar 10, 2014

ok. the only big issue i see with doing what you want is it would possibly make your truck easy to steal. plus you would need a couple high amperage switches because a couple of the circuits that the ignition switch controls are fairly high amperage.

Rusted1984 · Mar 10, 2014

Electrical is my weak area... Would you know the correct amperage? I'm not worried about it getting stolen, I live 20 miles away from any other form of human life and I plan to shave the handles and use door poppers but I do appreciate your concern.

I would also like to find 302 head but they are harder to find in my area apparently.. Do you know if these heads are merely a bolt if left modified. I have searched for this answer but cant seem to find a straight forward yes.

crazzywolfie · Mar 11, 2014

i don't know exact amperages but i think the blower motor pulls at least 10 amps and i think it is fused for 20. you could possibly use relays to power things.

depending on how much money your willing to spend on heads effects your options. you can get magnum heads for your engine but you have to get other parts to make them work which costs more money. in a truck the difference in heads would not likely be very noticeable. it is not a race car running 8000rpm at the track.

Rusted1984 · Mar 11, 2014

Well I was thinking something in this range

Push Button Start Kit Ignition Engine Starter Igniter : Amazon.com : Automotive

It's 30 amps..

As far as performance goes, I would like to end at the 300 hp mark eventually.. I'm thinking it will need to be rebuilt but 302 heads seem to be able to hold those numbers with a good cam and intake.

crazzywolfie · Mar 11, 2014

you won't need one of those for the starter. you could use a normal switch to operate the starter because it is already on a relay. i was more so thinking of the other things that the ignition switch normally controls.

300hp might be a bit of a high goal unless you want to spend a lot of money. there are people running turbo's on their 318's just barely putting out 300hp. almost sounds like you might just want to swap in a 318 magnum. the magnum heads flow better than LA heads. otherwise la and magnum engines are about the same other than small stuff like cam, lifters, push rods, head and intake

Rusted1984 · Mar 11, 2014

I did some research and see what you mean now, I don't know what the formula a person would need to figure out how big the relay will need to be.

I'm currently searching for a 360 to swap for some easier power gains... I decided it will just be flat easier.

How hard was pulling out your dash?

crazzywolfie · Mar 11, 2014

most relays are usually good for at least 30/40 amps which should be more than enough but i think you will need 3. 1 for each of the ignition circuits.

the only thing with a 360 is that you will need to get a weighted flex plate since 360's are externally balanced where 318's are internally balanced. it is cheaper than buying a new torque converter.

removing the dash usually requires removing the windshield.

Rusted1984 · Mar 11, 2014

Great info!

Could I just grab a flex plate off of the donor vehicle that had a 360 in it?

or am I forced to buy an aftermarket one?

crazzywolfie · Mar 11, 2014

i think it depends on the donor vehicle. i think the 99 and newer 360's used a balanced flexplate. you will be able to tell when you look at it. there will be weights on it. otherwise you would have to buy a b&m flex plate. i think it would be cheaper than buying a new 360 torque converter.
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/bmm-10242/overview/make/dodge

Rusted1984 · Mar 15, 2014

How much can I expect to pay for a junk yard 360?

crazzywolfie · Mar 15, 2014

i don't know. i usually see engines going for about $400. some people ask more some ask less. it really varies depending on where you live.

Couple questions regarding Emissions and AC

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