you can check all that but i am pretty sure if there is no o2 sensor you are not going to get it running too much better. you can pull codes to verify.
The 1980s-1990s Chrysler vehicals .
Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. (On is *not* start!)
The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (loong pause)
It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!
55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes are not repeated.)
33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
John McGuire wrote: "The older Vipers will blink out diag codes with four off/on key turns. They removed the capability starting in... I think 2000, at any rate I know my 2001 requires a computer to check the codes."
On some models (such as a 1995 Neon), when the check engine light goes on, you may be able to get the codes simply by putting in the key and moving it to the RUN position; the light will blink out the codes by itself.
Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this is not a complete listing, but it IS very close to complete. It stemps from a list posted on the Mopar Mailing List, but many modifications have been made.
* Activates Power Limited/Check Engine light on some models.
IMPORTANT. Codes may be different for newer vehicles starting in the late 1990s. See the earlier section.
11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop working entirely with no limp-home mode.
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
13* MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
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21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
22* Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
23* Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V (SEE NOTE #3)
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors) (SEE NOTE #4 BELOW)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections
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31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections
36 (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching)
36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
OR
part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
OR
solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV)
OR
Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on; see NOTE 2)
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41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (SEE NOTE #6)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
OR
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
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51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (Bob Lincoln wrote: may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition, and the O2 sensor trying to compensate. The O2 sensor may still be good. The MAP assembly consists of two pieces, the valve and the vacuum transducer (round plastic unit with cylinder on top and both electrical and vacuum connections) - If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor. [Webmaster note: MAP sensors seem to die regularly.]
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position (SEE NOTE #5!)
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing (7)
55 End of codes
