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Marshmallow Brakes


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I step on the pedal and it feels like marshmallows. The truck stops but not well. My uncle who owns ...


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Old 11-03-2014, 12:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Marshmallow Brakes
I step on the pedal and it feels like marshmallows. The truck stops but not well.
My uncle who owns a repair shop suggested I bleed the brakes. I have done this on my motorcycles with success...but never a 4 line system.

suggestions or is this one of those deals where I'm just better off paying for it?

I need to replace a damaged rotor on the front, I could have it done then too I guess.


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Old 11-07-2014, 08:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Bleeding the brakes is pretty straight forward. Have someone on the cab pumping the pedal, I usually have the engine off. Then with someone standing on the pedal open the bleeder screw to let some fluid out. Be sure to close the bleeder screw before the pedal goes all the way to the floor. Start with the wheel furthest from the brake cylinder and male sure the cylinder is always full so you're not sucking air back into the lines. I usually bleed each line 3 or 4 times.

I just did the front brake rotors on my W350 and although it was more difficult than doing them on my 1/2 ton trucks it wasn't too bad. Just more time consuming. If you know what axle you have I could post up some pics.


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Old 11-07-2014, 08:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
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I have Dana 60s. I have 1983 W350


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Old 11-07-2014, 10:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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I have a Dana 44 on the front but it looks like it goes together the same. The spindle nut socket (left) cost around $20 and I had to grind down two of the prongs to get it to fit.



I also bought a snap ring removal tool for $12 to take the hub apart.



When I got the hubs off I pounded out the studs using a 3/8" socket extension and was able to reuse all of the studs.

When putting everything back together I packed the wheel bearings and tightened the spindle nut enough so that the wheel still spun freely but there was little to no play in the hub. It took some effort to get them snug again, I ended up having to tighten the lug nuts in a criss cross pattern several times to pull the rotor snug with the hub. It would have been much easier with an impact wrench.

I watched this video before doing my brakes and thought it was very helpful.

Dana 60 Axle: Hub and Brake Disc Removal How-To - YouTube


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Old 11-08-2014, 01:17 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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When I bled my brakes after replacing a rubber brake line, I picked up a pistol grip hand vacuum pump and was able do do it perfectly without a helper. It was much easier than the way I used to do it with a helper pumping the brakes and when I was done, the brakes were great. Nice and solid.

This is the one I used:
OEM/Vacuum pump 25136 at AutoZone.com - 7 reviews

Ray


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Old 11-08-2014, 07:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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bleeding the brakes probably won't do much. the rear brakes are most likely out of adjustment and the adjuster is most likely locked up and no longer doing its job. also if you have not replaced the brake lines on the truck you may want to inspect them and possibly replace them. may also end up replacing wheel cylinders and calipers just because the bleeder screws are most likely rusted shut.


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Old 11-27-2014, 11:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Ok so checked everything out. Rear adjusters worked great. Front and rear bled fine...and then the brakes got worse. So I ordered a new MC based on my uncle's professional opinion...he owns several repair shops and his best guy helped me do the work. I will have it installed next week.


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