6.4 Hemi Gear Swap

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LDBagger17

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So the shop just called me they told me they need to change out the front carrier, what i was told is that there is two different carriers used in the front axle one is for the 3.52 to the 3.73 gear ratio's not sure on the 3.52, the other carrier is for the 4.44 and 4.88 that come in the cab and chassis models, they have one coming and should be done by the end of the week. im out of town so i told them take there time and do it right the first time. I'm unsure about exactly what this mean in ref. to the carrier swap, it just an open spider gear inside must have something to do with how the ring gear seats in the carrier. this is a 2016 ram 3500 6.4 hemi with the snow chief package, they told me over the phone that it was there fault for not enough research and the carrier will only be 250$ more, i instructed them to please keep all of my old parts and when completed give me a complete break down of parts and labor, so i can be more informed about the swap., i will keep updating as i get them.
Got any updates on this?
 

Ratket

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He’s having to much fun to post back lol
 

tuffy

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I think he went to **** and the hogs ate him
 

[email protected]

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I'm geting 4.56's tomorrow. My shop also told me for the front needs a new carrier. 2016 ram 2500. Taking out 3.73
 
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mtofell

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Well, since I started this thread I guess I should just resurrect it rather than staring a new one. I think I'm finally getting around to doing the re-gear and was hoping to get some up to date reports from those that have done it.

This is for the 6.4 Hemi - I'm running totally stock with 18" wheels. Absolutely zero chance of changing tires or lifting due to my 5th wheel. I talked to the shop today and they aren't sure what options they'll have until they see the truck but I'm trying to plan ahead.

I think the 4.56 would be the absolute highest # I'd want to go with. A 4.30 or 4.44 would seem to pretty ideal. I live in a big metro area and do mostly city or slow-ish highway driving. I'm rarely out going 75+ for any length of time.

So, any reports from those who have done the re-gear? What did you go to and are you happy? Knowing what you know now would you still do the same? Or, opt for higher # or lower #?
 

NewBlackDak

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Well, since I started this thread I guess I should just resurrect it rather than staring a new one. I think I'm finally getting around to doing the re-gear and was hoping to get some up to date reports from those that have done it.

This is for the 6.4 Hemi - I'm running totally stock with 18" wheels. Absolutely zero chance of changing tires or lifting due to my 5th wheel. I talked to the shop today and they aren't sure what options they'll have until they see the truck but I'm trying to plan ahead.

I think the 4.56 would be the absolute highest # I'd want to go with. A 4.30 or 4.44 would seem to pretty ideal. I live in a big metro area and do mostly city or slow-ish highway driving. I'm rarely out going 75+ for any length of time.

So, any reports from those who have done the re-gear? What did you go to and are you happy? Knowing what you know now would you still do the same? Or, opt for higher # or lower #?

Just do the 4.56s. The taller gears will help you in city driving. I’m 4.10s on stock tires and want higher.


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Ratket

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At stock height with stock wheels.. you won’t regret 4:56. It will rev faster and hold gears longer especially when towing. Your mpg will improve in the city due to “effortless acceleration” and on the hey due to the mds since the motor doesn’t have to work as hard. No real world experience as I never got around to doing my 6.4... but on past vehicles I re geared it was amazing.
 

GsRAM

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If I ever regear I think I'm going with the 4.44 mopar gears the cab/chassis come with. I would not personally go from my 3.73s to 4.10s as there is not enough of a difference there. Had I had one close available otherwise identical to my truck, yes I'd have gotten the 4.10s. However I've heard from folks who have driven both 73 and 10 trucks back to back and they couldn't feel any seat of the pants difference between the two. That does not surprise me. Going to a 4.44 or especially 4.56s I'm confident it'd be a noticeable difference
 

theviking

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If the 4.44 gears work would seem like a good choice since it's OEM and fitment should be spot on. It's very confusing to verify ring and pinion sets between the coil spring and leaf spring axles.

http://www.demandaam.com/pressrelease/aam-announces-ram-115-gear-set-update?page=1

I know Yukon AAM makes 4.56 gears for the 11.5" (AAM11.5-456-YG) but was never clear to me if they were a direct fit for the AAM Coil Spring 1150 axle. Or what other parts would be required for these to work.
 

SuperBeeMike

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Hello everyone, this is my first reply here, I just signed up. I have been stalking this Forum for quite some time, and mainly the posts regarding gear changes.

When I bought my truck new, I looked all over for a 4:10 geared truck, but had no luck. I found the perfect truck, but with 3:73's, so I figured I'd give it a shot. It drove fine and pulled ok on flat ground, but it needed more. I was mostly convinced I needed gears after months of reading forums, but ultimately decided after a camping trip to the Ichthyosaurs State Park, in Nevada. My toy hauler is a 33' bumper pull, weighs in around 10k when loaded, and my truck is detailed below. On that trip, I was pulling a grade up out of Gabbs Nevada, had a decent run at it, and was letting the Hemi eat. Halfway up I was down into 1st gear, it was miserable. I tried to push it to second but once it shifted, it bogged and I was right back into 1st. I ended up slowing down so the engine was at 4k RPM's for the remainder of the grade. My wife had that disappointed look on her face, and I'm sure I did too. My mighty Ram was not so mighty. Worse was it ate through my gas which did not give me enough to pull the trailer back to civilization. I had to unhook the next day and take a day trip to Austin for fuel. That worked out, because we took back roads, which led us to a sweet little creek to fish.

So enough with the story, I pulled the trigger two weeks ago and had my truck re-geared. I went with AAM 4:56's for my stock tire, stock height truck to replace my 3:73. I had Driveline and Gear Service, in Sparks, Nevada, do the work for me. They use factory AAM parts and did have to replace the front carrier assembly to accept the 4:56's. It took them 2 days to complete the job and it cost just over $2700. No whine, no funny noises, and a 12 month warranty. I recommend them if you are close. http://www.drivelineandgear.com/

My thoughts are Ram should be building these trucks with 4:56 axle ratios. They might have their reasons on why not too, but it drives like I think it should. I know I have a large displacement Hemi with a good amount of torque now. Its quick, well mannered, and a blast to drive. My gas mileage went up on my daily commute which is mostly city driving. I am currently just under 14mpgs in the city, based on the dash readout, when before I barely broke 13. When on the highway, I notice the MPG reading to be high teens, but I haven't driven far enough on the highway to give you decent data. Running 70 mph on the highway, in 6th gear, my RPM is at 2000. One thing I expected to see more was ECO mode but it still isn't on as much as I'd like. Pulling the trailer now is far less stressful. I don't have to ring the Hemi's neck in 1st to make up for the ridiculous gap between 2nd gear. That extra leverage the 4:56's give really get things motivated now. I have yet to pull a big grade at speed but should be heading out later today for a trip.

I want to stress this to those that are thinking about re-gearing, or are planning to purchase a Hemi truck. It will never be a Cummins powered truck, no matter what we do to them. I have had 3 Cummins trucks over the years and my Hemi will never pull like them. With that being said, I am glad I made the switch to a Hemi and don't think I will ever go back. Daily life with my 15' Ram 3500 with the Cummins was terrible. It had horrible drivability and too many issues that came with the complex emission systems. Another thing to consider is the price of gears and are they worth it to you. I pull my trailer a lot, in Nevada which has the most mountain ranges in the US, 150 of them I think, and I swear I'm always pulling into a head wind (Utah sucks and California blows). For me, they are absolutely worth it, I would have paid more. I also love the new driving characteristics. It is more responsive and quite fun to drive. I hope this helps you in your decision and good luck....Mopar or No Car!!!
 
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Ratket

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That’s awesome!! Reno was the closest civilization to me before I moved to Az, and I actually had gears quoted by them as well, they are a very reputable shop. You should be much happier towing now. Thanks for sharring the story.
 

14RAM4X4

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Dang! I was all set on 4.56s, but now that I've seen some posts with 4.56s on stock tires, it has me thinking I might want to go 5.13s or at least 4.88s.....
 

reloaderguy

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Dang! I was all set on 4.56s, but now that I've seen some posts with 4.56s on stock tires, it has me thinking I might want to go 5.13s or at least 4.88s.....

I'm running 5.13s with 37's. If you plan on sticking with 37's then 5.13s feel good. 5.38 would be better for 40's.
 

GsRAM

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I wonder if the 4.44 mopar oem gears require changing the front carrier? I'v seen in these posts That the 4.56s require changing the front carrier. I'm keeping the stock tire size (which is nearly 34"!) so I think the 4.44s would be enough gear for me. A bonus would be if I could keep the stock front carrer and just change the ring and pinion. That would also reduce cost.

Is there any difference in the rear ends with leaf springs that the c/c has versus my 2500 with coils?
 

reloaderguy

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4.10 and up require a carrier or a ring gear spacer.

ETA: I don't think this is correct. Contact Randy's, Just Differentials, or East Coast Gear. AAM lists the 9.25 and 11.5 as having no carrier breaks. However, I have heard several installers mention changing carriers on Diesel 3.42 trucks. My truck came factory with 4.10 gears and I used AAM GM pattern front gears so my application will be different than most in this thread.
 
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theviking

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Is there any difference in the rear ends with leaf springs that the c/c has versus my 2500 with coils?

Well according to AAM there is a difference and the two rears do not use compatible pinion gears. But damned if I can get anyone to provide a straight up answer as to why.
 

reloaderguy

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Well according to AAM there is a difference and the two rears do not use compatible pinion gears. But damned if I can get anyone to provide a straight up answer as to why.

Yes, there is a difference. The C&C 11.5 is a "small bearing" pinion. Technically it does not fit a 2500 "big bearing" 11.5 but there are conversion bearings available from multiple sources. I used AAM Chrysler 5.13 C&C gears and had to use conversion bearings. The crush sleeve, and presumably the aftermarket solid sleeves, require machining to shorten them up a little due to the difference in bearing size.
 

theviking

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This is the best explanation I have seen by far! Thanks:)
 

reloaderguy

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I should have also mentioned, not all 2014 and up 2500 have large bearing 11.5 rears. From memory I think it started in 2015. If you call Just Differentials with your Vin they can tell you what kind of differential you have. I can't speak for for all C&C R&P's but the AAM Chrysler 11.5 5.13 gears are for small bearing 11.5 housings.
 

GsRAM

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Yes, there is a difference. The C&C 11.5 is a "small bearing" pinion. Technically it does not fit a 2500 "big bearing" 11.5 but there are conversion bearings available from multiple sources. I used AAM Chrysler 5.13 C&C gears and had to use conversion bearings. The crush sleeve, and presumably the aftermarket solid sleeves, require machining to shorten them up a little due to the difference in bearing size.


That's excellent info. Thanks much. I'd like to use the 4.44 gears but I guess ill have to see what all is involved to make those work. I plan on keeping my truck for another 9 yrs so it's worth the investment. I may install them myself so it needs to be spot on right or they will make noise or burn up the bearings. Thanks again
 

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