Anybody upgraded Rotors and pads for towing?

440hsp · Jun 24, 2017

Trying to find people and thoughts on brake upgrades for my 2014 Laramie CC 4x4 CTD before i start towing a 5th wheel fulltime. Nowhere near as many choices as a half ton truck. I've been looking at Centric parts rotors and pads because they supply the heavy duty rotors and pads to ambulances and vehicles that require extreme duty tolerances. I dont know how I feel about cross drilled rotors because I know they crack under extreme circumstances suck as ( driving up and down mountains with a 5th wheel ). Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated. Even thought about changing fluid and going to SS lines.

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zflat · Jun 24, 2017

I'm interested to hear what people more educated than I have to say on the subject. How heavy is the 5er? I would think with good trailer brakes and the exhaust brake on the CTD upgraded brakes wouldn't be necessary, but like I said, I'm not extremely educated on the matter.

AFMoulton · Jun 24, 2017

http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/c-2246-2010-17-67l-dodge-cummins-performance-brakes.aspx

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AFMoulton · Jun 24, 2017

Try those guys, I am going with EVC stuff on my truck when it's time.

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440hsp · Jun 24, 2017

Only reason I'm thinking about it is because i don't like how squishy my brakes are and how much pressure i have to apply before i stop. Then add in a 12k 5er and I really would like to be safer than sorry.

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SouthTexan · Jun 24, 2017

The truck in tow/haul mode and the exhaust brake in auto mode(green) would probably do more for you than these upgraded rotors and brakes will. You will be amazed on how well that exhaust brake will help slow you down or keep you at speed going down hill. Sometimes it works a little too well and I actually have to hit the accelerator because it slowed me down too much.

If I recall correctly, the brakes and rotors you have on your truck are the same as the 3500 DRW. If they can handle what that think is rated to tow then I do not see why they won't be able to handle your load.

440hsp · Jun 24, 2017

@SouthTexan What do you have your brake controller set at?

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SouthTexan · Jun 24, 2017

Mine is currently set at 6, but there is so many variables that can slightly change that number even with two identical trailers. Make sure you have the type of trailer you are towing on "Heavy Electric" in the trailer settings. I think "Light Electric" is default.

mtofell · Jun 24, 2017

I've been overall very happy with the brakes on my 2014 2500 while towing the 11K beast. The exhaust brake on your Cummins should be much better than my gasser too. Once out on the highway I rarely even use my brakes. With enough distance around me I can control the speed very well by manually shifting.

Heading down a 10 mile curvy 6% grade a few weeks back I only needed my brakes a handful of times when the weight started to overrun 2nd gear. Otherwise, the truck just purrs along nicely.

I usually have my gain set between 4.5-6. Also, be sure to get into your EVIC and choose "heavy electric" if not already done.

440hsp · Jun 24, 2017

Thanks for that guys. Just changed mine to heavy electric.

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SouthTexan · Jun 24, 2017

BTW, here is how the exhaust brake does towing 30k lbs down a 7 mile grade 7 road. I know it is a DRW 3500 towing it, but the exhaust brake works the same in your truck.

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Trust me, it can hold your 14k trailer without needing to touch the brakes if needed. Just remember to put it in "Auto mode" (green) if you want the truck to do all the downshifting for you.

440hsp · Jun 24, 2017

I follow these guys religiously. Coming out of the Eisenhower tunnel on that downhill grade on I-70 is exactly where i think of when comparing what I'll need my truck to do. Lol

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440hsp · Jun 24, 2017

So putting my truck in tow/haul mode and putting the exhaust brake in auto helps with downshifting??

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SouthTexan · Jun 24, 2017

440hsp said:
So putting my truck in tow/haul mode and putting the exhaust brake in auto helps with downshifting??

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Yes, I would recommend you go out and try it unloaded first to get used to how much downshifts and increases the exhaust brake as you come to a stop. Notice how the amount of engine braking is applied depends on how hard you press the brake pedal. This is why I recommend for people to get used to it unloaded first.

The other feature of the exhaust brake in auto mode is that it will remember what speed you were at when you let off the accelerator pedal and truck to keep you there. So say you were cresting a hill and were about to come down so you let off the accelerator at 60 mph to coast. The computer remembers that you let off at 60 mph and the auto mode will kick in and out to keep you at 60 mph as you go down the hill. Full mode will not do this.

SouthTexan · Jun 24, 2017

Oh, and just in case you ever get hassled by the police for using your exhaust brake in an area where "engine brakes" are not allowed. Tell them that you have an exhaust brake, not an engine brake. There is a difference between the two. Engine brakes utilized the valves within the engine to force the vehicle to slow down while exhaust brakes uses valves or veins in the exhaust or turbo.

440hsp · Jun 24, 2017

@SouthTexan thanks buddy

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loveracing1988 · Jun 24, 2017

SouthTexan said:
The truck in tow/haul mode and the exhaust brake in auto mode(green) would probably do more for you than these upgraded rotors and brakes will. You will be amazed on how well that exhaust brake will help slow you down or keep you at speed going down hill. Sometimes it works a little too well and I actually have to hit the accelerator because it slowed me down too much.

If I recall correctly, the brakes and rotors you have on your truck are the same as the 3500 DRW. If they can handle what that think is rated to tow then I do not see why they won't be able to handle your load.

If we get a 11.8 in to test I'll compare them but I believe you are right on the size of the pads and rotors, the only difference being where the rotors attach to the hubs.

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SouthTexan · Jun 25, 2017

loveracing1988 said:
If we get a 11.8 in to test I'll compare them but I believe you are right on the size of the pads and rotors, the only difference being where the rotors attach to the hubs.

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I was just going by the vehicle specs section on the Ram Bodybuilders guide for his truck. According to that, the brakes are the same for both DRW and SRW diesel trucks.

2500 trucks on the lest and 3500 on the right.

Anybody upgraded Rotors and pads for towing?

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