Charonblk07's build thread

I'm officially going with the battery relocation, hopefully in 2 weeks if the weathers good. The plan is to use welding cable from the local supply shop as it tends to have a higher strand count and remain flexible in stupid cold temps out here. I will crimp and solder every connector and just ordered a 10 ton hydraulic crimping tool for $45, as long as it survives this job it's money well spent.

Dual Optima Yellow Tops relocated to the tool box in the bed, wired in parallel w/ 1/0Ga, no solenoid
1/0Ga cable from the alt to batteries w/ 300A fuse (I've blown 250A fuses here before)
1/0Ga cable from batteries to Amp distribution block
1/0Ga cable from batteries to Moroso 74102 power shut off switch in the roll pan
1/0Ga cable from shut off switch to (1) 1/0Ga to (2) 1/0Ga distribution block
1/0Ga cable from distribution block to starter
1/0Ga cable from distribution block to (1) 1/0Ga IN to (3) 8Ga OUT distribution block
8Ga cables to fuse box, auxillary fuse box breaker, and spare

Grounds:
1/0Ga engine-frame
(2) 1/0Ga battery-frame

Here's the battery bracket that I'll be using. I plan to paint it black before install and use stainless hardware.

I debated using one Red Top and one Yellow Top but I've decided I really don't want to have a solenoid in between the two like I had originally planned. This will give me a much longer off-key run time and shouldn't cause issues with the charging system. I do forsee requiring an high amp output alternator upgrade in the future, but we'll see what happens with the JL HD 900/5s and (2) 12W6-V3s. I don't like capacitors, so I won't be using any in this build.

Also dropping the truck off to a shop for them to scope out the potential of installing proper upper air bag mounts for the rear air set up, the Hellwig system doesn't sit well with the 6" rear drop and is stiff as hell right now, I really want the additional 4" of bag travel that the kit's upper mount takes up.

I'm talking with Michigan Metal Works about a set of custom lower control arms that will accept a ring eye mount and run a set of Shockwave air shocks from RideTech, this would allow me to set ride and static heights at all 4 corners. Gotta love the idea of a bagged 4wd, lol. I'm never going to lay frame, but I want to tuck a little when I'm at shows then air up and head out to the strip and lay down 12s, I'm not asking for much.

Infriggincredible!!!! Totally awesome man!!!

Power247 said:

Infriggincredible!!!! Totally awesome man!!!

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Thanks!

charonblk07 said:

but I want to tuck a little when I'm at shows then air up and head out to the strip and lay down 12s, I'm not asking for much.

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Haha not asking much! Haha I just want to run 12s and I feel I'm asking too much with that!

Gecko said:

Haha not asking much! Haha I just want to run 12s and I feel I'm asking too much with that!

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What, is a lowered QC 4wd in the 12s out of the question? lol

At this point I'm hoping to break into the 12s this year if I ever get the tuning completed. I want the supercharger WOT tune dialed in within the next 2 months then we'll work on the nitrous tune on the dyno. I just need to schedule some dyno time up here and make sure Josh is available for the time as well.

charonblk07 said:

What, is a lowered QC 4wd in the 12s out of the question? lol

At this point I'm hoping to break into the 12s this year if I ever get the tuning completed. I want the supercharger WOT tune dialed in within the next 2 months then we'll work on the nitrous tune on the dyno. I just need to schedule some dyno time up here and make sure Josh is available for the time as well.

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What is your final goal for your times? You say 12s for this year without nitrous but how big a shot of nitrous are you going to run and what is your overall goal?

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My goal is low 12s. To even get to the 12s I'll need the nitrous, I have no doubt about that and I may have to look into running a water **** kit in the future, but I think the nitrous should provide enough cooling and fuel enrichment on its own. I've got a Zex/Nitrous Outlet plate combo that can push a 250 shot, but I figure a 150 shot should get me to my goal this year if I'm pushing 12psi with no belt slip.

I will be replacing the P1SC with a D1SC sometime this year as the P1SC has an oil leak somewhere so I may as well upgrade. That should get me to the 15psi I originally planned on with the 3.05" pulley and why I stayed with a 349cuin and didn't get a 370cuin. I really wanted to try higher boost with a smaller displacement compared to many people that go right to the stroker.

charonblk07 said:

My goal is low 12s. To even get to the 12s I'll need the nitrous, I have no doubt about that and I may have to look into running a water **** kit in the future, but I think the nitrous should provide enough cooling and fuel enrichment on its own. I've got a Zex/Nitrous Outlet plate combo that can push a 250 shot, but I figure a 150 shot should get me to my goal this year if I'm pushing 12psi with no belt slip.

I will be replacing the P1SC with a D1SC sometime this year as the P1SC has an oil leak somewhere so I may as well upgrade. That should get me to the 15psi I originally planned on with the 3.05" pulley and why I stayed with a 349cuin and didn't get a 370cuin. I really wanted to try higher boost with a smaller displacement compared to many people that go right to the stroker.

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I just want a ride in it when it's done then!

Got started on the battery relocation yesterday, pretty straightforward so far. I just need to cut the floor of my tool box and bed to pass the cables through now and run them the length of the truck, everything else is installed.

I like the bracket, but it's obvious that the manufacturer didn't have a bolt in the nut when they welded it together as the nuts were warped slightly and snapped one of the grade 3 bolts they supply with just moderate pressure. So I had to tap out the holes again and I used stainless hardware instead.

Here's the battery bracket painted and with the dual yellow tops installed.


Then I started the wiring using 1/0ga welding cable. Everything is techflexed with corresponding heat shrink.


A look at the power distribution blocks. The audio system is running off a 140A breaker and the main power distribution will run one cable directly to the starter and the other will run to the Master shut-off switch then to the fuse box.


This is how I left it last night. Just need to run grounds to the frame, and the long power cables and I'll be finished. I plan to upgrade the engine-frame ground as well.

Nice, looks clean.

I just came across this thread. What an amazing job bro! I wish I could afford to hire you for a year to do some awesome stuff to my little truck!!!

I'm am relocating my battery and adding a second battery to the bed of the truck. I need to replace my aging Yellow Top because I'm now getting a red lightening bolt every so often and I know it's not an issue with the throttle body.

The plan is to use welding cable from the local supply shop as it tends to have a higher strand count and remain flexible in the stupid cold temps out here. I hydraulically crimped every connector and ordered a 10 ton hydraulic crimping tool for $45, it survived this job so it's money well spent.

The setup will be:

Dual Optima Yellow Tops relocated to the tool box in the bed, wired in parallel w/ 1/0Ga, no solenoid
1/0Ga cable from the alt to batteries w/ 300A fuse (I've blown 250A fuses here before)
1/0Ga cable from batteries to Amp distribution block
1/0Ga cable from batteries to Moroso 74102 power shut off switch in the roll pan
1/0Ga cable from shut off switch to (1) 1/0Ga to (2) 1/0Ga distribution block
1/0Ga cable from distribution block to starter
1/0Ga cable from distribution block to (1) 1/0Ga IN to (3) 8Ga OUT distribution block
8Ga cables to fuse box, auxillary fuse box breaker, and spare

Grounds:
1/0Ga engine-frame
(2) 1/0Ga battery-frame

I debated using one Red Top and one Yellow Top but I've decided I really don't want to have a solenoid in between the two like I had originally planned. This will give me a much longer off-key run time and shouldn't cause issues with the charging system. I do forsee requiring an high amp output alternator upgrade in the future, but we'll see what happens with the JL HD 900/5s and (2) 12W6-V3s. I don't like capacitors, so I won't be using any in this build.

Got started on the install yesterday. Pretty straightforward so far. I just need to cut the floor of my tool box and bed to pass the cables through now and run them the length of the truck, everything else is installed.

I like the bracket, but it's obvious that the manufacturer didn't have a bolt in the nut when they welded it together as the nuts were warped slightly and snapped one of the grade 3 bolts they supply with just moderate pressure. So I had to tap out the holes again and I used stainless hardware instead.

Here's the battery bracket painted and with the dual yellow tops installed.


Then I started the wiring using 1/0ga welding cable. Everything is techflexed with corresponding heat shrink.


A look at the power distribution blocks. The audio system is running off a 140A breaker and the main power distribution will run one cable directly to the starter and the other will run to the Master shut-off switch then to the fuse box.


Just need to run grounds to the frame, and the long power cables. I plan to upgrade the engine-frame ground as well.


Batteries are fully installed. I couldn't get the firewall bushings to work, not enough room on the ribs of the bed floor so I resorted to good old grommets.






Grounds are right under the box. I drilled and taped the frame and cleaned off the paint. Bolted right into the frame, I can't get a better ground without welding directly to the frame.


Installed the Moroso shut off in the roll pan.




Battery is now out of the engine bay, the space was then used to install the new wiring. I also installed a ground distribution block to simplify any future underhood mods. The bolt you see is connecting the alternator to the distribution block, and it's sticking up far enough that I can get a jumper cable on it if ever required.




Wired right up to the alternator and runs all the way back to the batteries in the box.


Here's the mostly cleaned up wiring with my auxiliary fuse block.

Broke down and ordered a new Procharger D1SC headunit to replace my leaking and slightly anemic P1SC unit. Apparently you can order them in black now, which is awesome BTW, for a $350 upgrade, so I am all over that coupled with helical gears instead of the straight cut in my P1SC. Should look much better and be much quieter as well.

Soon I'll have to pull the supercharger boost tubing and bracket to get that all powdercoated to really clean up the engine.

I'm also ordering a set of QA1s to replace the too-soft Belltech Street Performance shocks I have right now. Hopefully that will cure a lot of the ride quality issues I'm having with the air bag setup. If that doesn't help then I'm either going to redesign the airbags or just go back to springs and say screw it to air suspension.

Next days off will be dedicated to dyno tuning and getting my audio system started. Going to deaden the entire cab with Second Skin Damplifier Pro and a layer of Luxury Liner Pro.

charonblk07 said:

Broke down and ordered a new Procharger D1SC headunit to replace my leaking and slightly anemic P1SC unit. Apparently you can order them in black now, which is awesome BTW, for a $350 upgrade, so I am all over that coupled with helical gears instead of the straight cut in my P1SC. Should look much better and be much quieter as well.

Soon I'll have to pull the supercharger boost tubing and bracket to get that all powdercoated to really clean up the engine.

I'm also ordering a set of QA1s to replace the too-soft Belltech Street Performance shocks I have right now. Hopefully that will cure a lot of the ride quality issues I'm having with the air bag setup. If that doesn't help then I'm either going to redesign the airbags or just go back to springs and say screw it to air suspension.

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First off - phenomenal job you've done so far with the truck.

Do you have a little more info on those QA1s? Part #s or what needs to be done to run them?

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Thanks!

I'm going with their RS902 shocks because I have a 18.5" ride height shock length in the rear. That will give me ~4" of compression and 4-5" of extension in the shock at my current ride height. You do have to remember, I'm a 4/6 lowered 4wd and have been using stock height 2wd shocks. A 2wd will have a different shock length compared to mine.

Truck looks great! I got some questions concerning lowering:


I see you're using two kits in tandem. I am looking to do a 2/4 drop. Which of the two do you think would be better? Also, your CV issues in the front, do you think they would be an issue with only the 2 inch drop?

My truck is a complete bastardization of parts from different kits and manufacturers, there's more than 2 different kits holding my truck up, lol. I've got GF and McG's in the front, Hellwig bags and Belltech shocks in the rear.

If yours is a 4wd and if you only want to do a 2/4 or 2/3 then either the GF or McG's Deluxe kits will work for you. A 2/4 kit won't have issues with the front CVs, mine does because it's down 4/6 and that's where you start getting some really large angles on the CVs.

Finished up the cosmetic work on the front end of the truck now. The headlights are now finished, the grille mesh has been powder coated gloss black and reinstalled onto the new grille shell.

I'm now the only Ram with a white LED DRL conversion and they remain on for all ignition-on but the turn signal is powerful enough to drown out the white so they work just fine.



Functional video of the turn signal. The Photobucket video was absolutely horrendous quality, here's a youtube version that's much better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqyDpmn5qp4&feature=youtu.be


And some work on the front end







Oh, and a new toy arrived today. I'm replacing the satin finish straight cut P1SC head unit with a black powder coated helical geared D1SC head unit. More power, better looking, and doesn't leak oil into the engine bay.