NightMares 01 Sport Build

Definitely keep us up to date on this project, I'm very curious on the hybrid axle swap your talking about.


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Here's a link. If you contact them (my work is direct with them) they can fix and build any axle to any application.

clicky

Here's tomorrow's fun projects.





Doing the swing case just because I have a few things I like to keep with me, but I'm limited for space. I plan on doing the Fab Fours headache rack and modifier here soon in the future, and with the modifier you can't run a tool box with it. We've modified them in the past to work with chests, but with a short bed truck, I don't want to sacrifice too much more room. I really only have straps, my receiver, cargo tie down straps and a cargo net that I have stored under the back seat, but car seats make getting under the seat a pain so I think this will solve my cargo management for the time being.

These JKS quick disconnects are similar in dimensions to the stock ones, as these are designed for XJ's, ZJ's, and TJ's with 0-3" lifts. Should be an easy bolt in process (so I hope). I'll update tomorrow with photo's of everything.

Never got the parts installed. Long time buddy was back in town from north Dakota, so we took off for a day in the hills with the Rams.

Damn thats quite a bit of flex going on. I need to get a pic like that with my new lift kit on my truck. Looks good!

If I would have had time to install the JKS sway bar disconnects, there would have been a lot more to go. Hard to see, but the rear tire was about 3" off the ground. Had the sway bar been disconnected, all 4 tires would have been firmly planted on the ground.

I'll also go ahead and update with my next weekend project coming up in 2 weeks (would do it this weekend, but I've got an event my work is sponsoring I'll be at).

I've fought with my Jeep for months trying to get it to sit level front and rear, and apparently this Dodge is giving me the same troubles. I started with the 3" in the front, then 2" in the rear. After doing the rear, it went nose down, so I installed the spring retainers in hopes the 3/4" would bring the front level, to which it helped, but it's still nose down.

So, I went ahead and ordered the front components for the 5" from BDS which includes the upper and lower control arms, track bar bracket, 5" coils and pitman arm. I installed some Fabtech Stealth shocks the same time I installed the spring retainers, and according to Fabtech vs BDS dimensions, the BDS 3" shocks measure 1.5" shorter than my 3" Stealth shocks, and the 5" BDS shocks only measure 3/4" longer. So I'll install the kit with the current shocks I have, and if I do max out courtesy of the shock, I'll go ahead and make some limit straps until I can afford to do the long arm and coilovers in the front (don't want to buy 3 different sets of shocks for the front).

Plus, with the sway bars connected in the picture above, I think with disconnects I might end up rubbing the tires on the fender liner, so the extra 2" should take care of that.

Some pics of what i did this weekend.

First, truck got its first professional detail last Wednesday.





Unfortunately it's filthy now so i didn't get to enjoy it very long haha. But I got to haul this beauty 120 mile round trips Friday, Saturday, and today. Truck did good, only problem i had was a rising trans temp warning from my tuner. Apparently it didn't like a constant 60mph for 15 minutes straight on a steep grade when it's 86 degrees out. Creeped up to 220, so I'll probably look into options for keeping the trans cooler here shortly.









Finally home to rest.

Alright, got a huge stack of parts piling up along with more on order.

My next saturday off from work is October 10th, so hopefully everything I ordered yesterday is here before then so I can get it all installed in a day.

Currently I have:

JKS Quick Disconnects
BDS 5" Coil Springs
BDS drop pitman arm
BDS track bar bracket
BDS upper/lower control arms
Undercover Swing Case
Cobra 29LX CB Radio
Dual 4' Red Flexi Fiberglass CB Antenna's & mounts
VixionX Tantrum rock lights

Currently on order:

Soundstream SDR-342B touchscreen single din stereo & Metra stereo install kit
Soundstream Picasso amp with remote gain & Soundstream 4G install kit
ASC under seat box with Kicker C10 subs
Rolling Big Power black fuel door cover
Synergy steering box brace

I bounced back and forth on what stereo to buy, I finally decided to get a cheap deck until I can find the time to properly install a double din with navigation. Currently, I have an autometer gauge pod that has an open pod, so I'm planning on retro fitting my Garmin GPS right above my EDGE CTS2 Evolution. I've become a sad sap that needs navigation for deliveries and running errands in a pinch, so I planned for a long time on what stereo to use. I was going to use the Soundstream SNX731, but again a single din and I couldn't justify spending that much money on something I only plan to use temporarily.

Got awesome news today. All my stuff has shipped and should be here early to mid next week. Excited to finally get some real sound from this truck, although I will miss my steering wheel controls ha.

Soundstream SDR-342B



Soundstream P1.1500D



Soundstream WK-4G



ASC downfire under seat box w/ Kicker C10's



RBP Fuel Door

Just got the final update from Premier Performance. My Synergy steering box brace will be here Monday as well. So that will go into my suspension parts to install. I've already gone through everything on the suspension about a year ago (ball joints, tie rod ends, hub assemblies, all from Spicer). After doing the lift, I've noticed it seems like there's play in the steering. The truck drives straight, and even at higher speeds I feel confident letting go of the wheel, but the play is driving me nuts. I've already checked my steering box, and there's very little play anywhere, so I'm going to start with the steering box brace and cross my fingers that I can get rid of at least 90% of the play. If I hardly notice a difference, then it looks like the steering box and shaft combo from DOR is in the near errr future for me.

Update for today. Amp and stereo install kits both came in Friday. Subs, amp, steering box brace and Rolling Big Power fuel door all showed up today. Stereo head unit will be here wednesday, and that will complete my list for stuff already ordered I've put in this thread.

I also ordered some more parts over the weekend. A center console extension for the flip down seat, and two six switch pods to start a console build. I also ordered in a new Garmin GPS unit, as my current GPS is a little out dated (by almost 7 years). I also ordered in an EDGE gauge pod to hold a CTS that I will modify and adapt to my GPS unit, making the GPS and my CTS2 both mounted on the A-Pillar pod I have. Also ordered in the Edge license plate backup camera for my CTS2, because...well, why the hell not.











I'm going to build a console that will replace the drop down cup holders in the dash. It will run from the jumper seat up into the dash, stopping just below the stereo itself.

I suck for designing stuff on computers, so I'll just roll with explaining what's in my head in writing and drawing pictures in paint ha. Items going into the console are the following: 2 six switch pods, bass control knob for subs, 2 12v plugs, CB radio, speaker for CB, a safe for my gun, and a wireless charging cubby for my cell phone.

The console will have 3 faces. One slightly angled vertical from the stereo down, one angled, and one horizontal, like so. This picture is viewed as if you looked in from the driver's door.



On the vertical face, I'll have the two switch pods. One pod for the lights, the other for other accessories which I will get into in a second. Below the 2nd switch pod, I'll be mounting to the left the bass knob for the subs, then to the right will be two 12v plugs.



In the angled face, I plan to mount the CB Radio.



On the horizontal face to the right will be my cell phone charging cubby which I will have recessed down, the wireless charging pad mounted on the bottom, and the phone will just sit inside the cubby. Then on the bottom left corner will be the speaker for the CB Radio, and above that will be the CB handle mount.



On the passenger side of the box at the bottom, I plan to run a DeeZee portable safe bolted to the bottom. Basically it’s a sleeve designed to bolt to the floor under a seat, then a tray comes out via a key. I’ll be mounting it face flushed with the side of the console.



As for the switches, here's the plans.

On the upper switch panel, I'll have it for lights. One switch will be for the DRL's in my headlights that will be wired to an ignition fuse. I plan on running a Move front bumper with 2 sets of Rigid Dually's and a 20" light bar. One set of the Dually's will be the SAE approved fog lights, which will be wired to my normal fog light switch. I also plan on the FabFours headache rack, and a Move rear bumper, where 2 more pairs of Dually lights will be. Then cutting out some square holes in the sides of the headache rack pointing out the sides.

As for the second panel, it'll be for accessories. Eventually I plan on having ARB lockers, starting in the front and someday rear, so that will tie up 3 of the switches. The front locker will transfer into the Dynatrac Hybrid axle I want to get someday, so I can purchase the front locker and compressor sooner than later. Unfortunately, as many of you know, no ARB for the 9.25 in the back, so a rear locker will have to wait until I can afford to buy the axles for my truck. Back to the switches, the wife is not a huge fan of subs, so I plan on running the blue remote wire into one of the switches so I can shut the subs completely off for when she rides with me. The other 2 will be used for something someday. I dunno what that will be for yet. I'll just freak people out when they get in and tell them to hold on before I flip both switches.

So, here's the breakdown for the switches

Switch Panel 1:

S1: Headlight DRL's
S2: Dually Floods in front bumper
S3: 20" LED light bar in front bumper
S4: Dually Floods rear facing in headache rack
S5: Dually Diffused in rear bumper
S6: Dually Floods side facing in headache rack

Switch Panel 2:

S1: Subs
S2: ARB compressor (future install)
S3: ARB locker front (future install)
S4: ARB locker rear (future install)
S5: Unknown
S6: Unknown

RBP fuel door is installed. Very simple. Just used the existing holes for the factory door and the bump stops. Bolted right in, now i can replace the locking cap with a normal one....I've got too many keys haha.

Got the head unit and gps installed

Nothing new to add at the moment as to what I have done. This week sometime after work I plan on sanding and painting the coil springs and control arms red. When I install the lift, I'll clean, sand, and paint the tie rods and track bar as well. I thought about having them powder coated, but I'll save that for later as I hope to have at least the DOR long arm kit, track bar, and steering installed within the next year or so, at that time I'll spend the coins to get those parts powder coated along with the coil springs.

But, in the meantime, I've finally completed my build list for the truck. I'm sure some things some will be questionable for some people, but I'll clarify why I'm doing all this.

Suspension:
DOR Extreme bent long arm upgrade
DOR Extreme track bar
DOR Extreme steering with fox stabilizer
DOR rear 4 link conversion
SAW coilovers set to 7" front and 5" rear

Tires/Wheels:
Nitto Trail Grapplers 37x12.50x17
Ultra Xtreme 103 Satin Black beadlocks

Gears & Axles:
Factory Dana 44
Custom full truss
ARB locker
ARB breather
ARB diff cover
Yukon inner shafts
Yukon front hub conversion
Yukon 4.56 gears
Yukon master overhaul w/ Timken bearings
Factory Chrysler 9.25
Custom full truss
Yukon axle shafts
Yukon positraction
Yukon 4.56 gears
Yukon master overhaul w/ Timken bearings
Yukon steel diff cover

Exterior:
MOVE DIY front base bumper
Engo 12k synthetic winch
MOVE DIY rear bumper
Tiregate PreRunner series
FabFours headache rack w/ Modifier
Amerihood SSK fiberglass hood
RBP black grille insert
Bushwacker pocket flares
Custom build sliders

Lighting:
Rigid 20" combo recessed in front bumper
Rigid Dually SAE fog lights recessed in front bumper
Rigid D2 hyperspots recessed in front bumper
Rigid Dually diffused recessed in rear bumper
Rigid Dually flood recessed in headache rack rear facing
Rigid Dually flood recessed in headache rack side facing

And that's my build. The bumpers and fender flares, along with bottom sides of the doors/rockers/bed will be sprayed in red Upol Raptor liner tinted red to match the truck. The hood will be sprayed and blended into the front fenders, and the grille shell will also be resprayed as well due to clear fading. The headache rack is available in raw, so I'll order it in that way and have it powder coated to match the TireGate. I'll also probably have the fuel door cover powder semi gloss, and the sliders coated to match as well.

I've decided to keep the factory axles for two reasons:

1) Keep costs low. I can't forsee a time in the nearish future to fork out close to 5k an axle

2) Keep size down. 3/4 ton gear might direct swap in, but then I'm looking at larger tires to compensate for clearance. My truck is being built as a heavy wheeler and display truck for my work. Appearance needs to be appeasing, thus the hood and grille and etc, but also functional, thus the lockers, sliders, winch, etc. My work has done the math, and a Jeep on 35's with Dana 44's clearance wise is equivalent to a Jeep on 40's with Dana 60's. So initially to run the 60's and achieve the same ground clearance I'll have with 37's, something along the lines of 42" tires will have to go on. A full size truck on 42's is not a practical wheeler.

I'm playing with the idea of a rear winch installed where the factory spare tire is and fairlead built into the rear bumper, but we'll see where that goes. I might have to cut a panel out of the bottom of the bed to access the winch for repairs, free spool, etc. We'll see what happens.

But yeah, that's it. Thoughts from anyone?

Just made the happiest phone call I've ever made. Called MOVE bumpers regarding some questions about the bumper going onto a sport model (seeing as many companies advertise fitment issues with the grille). First question was if it would even fit, to which I was told the answer I feared...No. However, the designer I guess was looking for a test fit model, meaning if I were to purchase the bumper anyways, they would give me $75 off the total price as long as I update to them what I modify to allow fitment.

My second question was regarding winch mounting. With my truck going to events for show, I want flash, but not cluttered. No 50 inch light bar across the windshield, just clean. MOVE offers the bumpers with a recessed 20" light bar mount, but side noted was not available if the $75 winch package was ordered with it. I guess I called at the right time, seeing as they just redesigned them and now allow fitment with both the winch and the recessed light bar mount, along with the dual recessed square holes for Dually style lights.

So of course. I ordered it. Basically got the winch mount for free. Should ship by next Thursday, then it's time to build it and raptor line it red to match. Then Engo 12k synthetic winch, and Factor 55 prolink to finish it off.

This is it.



Edit:

Also went ahead and ordered in the lights as well.

Rigid SAE
Rigid hyperspots
Rigid 20" combo

Once I get them paid off with my work, then I'll go ahead and order in the winch and prolink. Kinda sad when you spend more money on lighting than you do a 12k synthetic rope winch.

I love your truck. It makes me miss my first ram so much! One of the cleanest second gens I've seen in quite a while.

Thanks bud. My goal is to make it clean. Nothing tacky, nothing cluttered.

Well, I cancelled my order for the Rigid dually lights. After looking through the photo's on Move's website, the lights look too small. The openings are 4" wide by 3" tall, and after further research they're not recessed at all. Just square openings for the dually and light bar with tabs welded for single post lights.

So, I'm keeping the Rigid 20" light bar, but have decided to go another route for the square openings.

Another company of lights we sell are CSI. They have a 4.3x3.6" light in both flood and spot patterns. I went ahead and ordered those instead, flood in place of my fog lights and spot wired to a switch. As for street legal, I might get some light window tint and take the floods apart and wrap the poly lens with them to darken them a bit, otherwise I'm going to just see if pointing them down will A) work, and B) look alright. Might look funny with one set pointed straight ahead and the other two angled down. They're a lot brighter than the dually lights. Dually's put out 1760 lumens per light, vs these are 3485 per light.

Here's what the lights look like. Different, but not ugly.



Also, by saving myself some money by switching to CSI, I went ahead and ordered in my winch. Be here probably monday. Engo 12k with synthetic rope and a wireless controller. Also talking to Factor 55 to see if I can get a Pro-link powder coated in bright red rather than the anodized dark red. If not, then I might just go black with it instead. We'll see, I got a few weeks to make my decision before the winch is even ready for install on the truck.

Got the subs and amp wired up and installed last night. Sound great, with the bass controller down to a minimum you can barely hear the subs, which works perfect for when my wife and kids ride in the truck. With the bass cranked, it'll bump pretty decent. I discovered my truck has rattles I never knew about.

Got my bass controller mounted up while we were slow at the store this morning, which is the final part of the process. Just going to cut a slit in the carper under the subs, cut a slit under the jump seat, then feed the wire underneath and route it up the jumper into the console, then underneath the console extension and plug into the remote.

I found myself playing with the remote a lot while driving this moring depending on the music, so mounting it here will work out a lot better I think so I'm not reaching down constantly.







Also just saved these this morning. Whenever we get tires that are either blown or low on tread (as in too low to really try to resell) we leave them outside for the public to take. Usually with an ad on criagslist in the free section we can clear out about 30 tires within a couple hours. My coworker was about to post the ad when I noticed these were outside in the pile. I asked him and he said the boss said they're not worth it to store, so just throw them out for free. I put them back in the garage to keep them safe, I'll take them home today when I'm off and store them in my garage.





Toyo MT's 35x12.50x17 with about equal tread to what my Nitto's currently have. I'm hoping to squeeze another 6 months out of my Trail Grapplers, then do the same with the Toyo's. By the time the Toyo's are fried hopefully I'll have my gear and axle parts and can bump up to the 37's.