NightMares 01 Sport Build

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NightMares

NightMares

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Alright, bumper will be here today! Checked the tracking yesterday to see if maybe UPS had even picked it up yet, found out they had actually picked it up last Thursday.

So, later this week I'm planning on picking up the Upol Raptor and paint, then hopefully this weekend I'll start the build on it. Plan on getting the bumper welded, painted, lights and winch installed before I start tearing the truck apart. Hoping to have it assembled and ready by Sunday of this weekend, so in turn I can put the bumper and 5" lift on next weekend, along with wiring in the lights and winch.

Also, my lights showed up yesterday. I'll definitely be buying some window tint for the floods. Way to bright to be driven on the highway. Winch also showed up, but I don't have it anymore. Customer walked in and wanted a winch that same day, so to make the sale, I sold mine to him instead. I have a couple days before I need it, so I just ordered 2 more last night. One for stock, one for me (again).

Also, my wife just got switched to night shift at her work. Once I can get my girls asleep, I might try to sneak out to the garage and start the painting process of the BDS springs and control arms this week.
 
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NightMares

NightMares

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I'm slammed at work, but while checking in freight I couldn't help but snap a pic.

It is here!

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I'll open her up after I lock the doors at work tonight and see what I'm getting myself into.
 
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NightMares

NightMares

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Haven't had the time to get into the bumper yet. I'm planning to take it back to work with me tomorrow and start tearing into it to see what is what.

I did also go ahead and order in new headlights and tail lights from Spyder for the truck. Headlights are the factory Sport style headlights with a black housing, tail lights are the new G2's from them.

Also, might finish my wrap up after work tonight. Sticker shop called and my decals are finished, so they'll be dropped off today and I'll update tonight with the final outcome.
 
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NightMares

NightMares

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Couple updates and thoughts.

1) Headlights and tail lights showed up today. Gonna hold off on doing the headlight install until I install the lift and bumper so I'm not adjusting them twice. But, excited for the fact that they are indeed OEM style as I can finally use the xenon low beam bulbs I ordered in with my current headlights that I couldn't get to fit properly. Main reason for this swap is I don't have high beams, I know there's a conversion harness but I like using the fog lights and never thought I'd need high beams. Well, my current lights are pencil beamed too much and I can't see going down the road to well.

Tail lights will be installed tonight before I leave work and I'll update with a photo of those when that happens.

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2) Wrap is incomplete. There was a misunderstanding between me and my sticker guy, colors wound up inverted where my red decals were black and black decals were red. Luckily he's cool about it considering it's one of his regular sticker packs for our local club, so he'll just hang onto them and sell them to someone else. Should have the correct decals by the end of this week, as long as it doesn't rain this weekend I should be able to get them on and "wrap" up my graphics.

3) I've been toying with the idea of custom paint. I think it's probably about a year out or so, and I don't want to repaint the truck until I have all of the parts I plan on installing on the truck, which would be the hood, grille, flares, and the rear bumper from MOVE to match the front. I am going to raptor line the bumper PR4 to match the truck at the moment, but I'm thinking once I have all my parts I want to change it up a little bit.

My truck has been nicknamed "Ruby" by my family, reason being is my oldest daughter picked the name. Ford has a tri stage red by the name of "Ruby Red Metallic" and before I picked up the Dodge I was actually planning on buying a newer Ford truck in that color. I fell in love the first time I saw it a few years ago on a dealer lot, so if I ever chose to go different than what my truck is now it would be that. Plus, the name of it matches the truck. I'm playing with the idea of either the red with black, or red and charcoal gray. Either way, it's going to be the red on the upper portion of the truck, and black/charcoal for the bumpers, flares, and lower portion of the rockers. The black/charcoal will be done in Raptor liner, and I think I'll probably do everything to match with it as well (TireGate Pre-Runner, FabFours headache rack & modifier, sliders, etc). If I do repaint the truck, I think I'll leave it debadged and no graphics, just clean. The colors I think should attract enough attention. My main fear of spending that much time and money on paint and body work was the fact that my truck someday WILL run the Rubicon, Moab, and tons of other trails where body damage is highly likely. But, fact of the matter is, I'm building a trail rig, not a show truck. It does see it's share of shows, but the shows I'm attending aren't typical car shows. We're setup in booths at rock crawling events, mud bogs, hill climbs and etc, so body damage will show the truck is used, not a street queen. So, if I do decide to pursue a color change, it will probably be babied the first couple times out on our trails until I get it's first dent, and from there I'll probably just start easing up on being careful and using the truck to its full potential, even if it winds up with a heavy amount of battle scars. Hell, it is a truck first, right?

Here's the idea of the color with Ruby Red and charcoal. I don't believe it's a charcoal in the picture, I think it's the Ford Caribou which is a little more brown, but eh it looks gray in this picture from the interwebz.

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The flares I might also change to Bushwacker's street flares. Main reason is if you don't have a super high offset wheel, the flares stick out further than the tires and I feel like it looks like the challenger space shuttle running down the interstate.

4) The goal is someday to be on 37's with 7" lift via coilovers, but I'm thinking of building a rack system in the bed of the truck to hold 5 tires (3 in the front portion of the bed, 2 between the wheel wells). By doing this, I think I can tuck the 5 37's into the bed of the truck, and I'm thinking I might go 18's or possibly 20's on 35" all terrain tires. Reason being, as much as I want to do non stop off road, at this current time the truck is my main form of transportation. A 4th gen Rebel has become a topic with the wife, but I don't foresee one in the near future, so putting the truck on some nice wheels and all terrains will keep it DD appropriate, but having the 37's on beadlocks in the bed will allow for heavy wheeling when the time comes. The TireGate will hold the 5th 35" spare and when swapped on 37's, the 5 35's can then be mounted in the bed and spare 37 on the TireGate. By doing this as well, the truck can then be used to commute to larger trails such as Moab or the Rubicon, also been wanting to go further out and explore Arizona, Colorado, etc. I'll probably go with the BFG KO2's for the all terrains considering the mileage people are getting out of them, and when I find the cash for the beadlocks and 37's I'll do the Trail Grapplers.

My biggest setback right now for the wheels is the choice of color for paint, black or charcoal. If I go black, then I want black wheels. If I go charcoal, there's been some anthracite wheels catching my attention that I think would flow really well with the color choices.

We will see. I might do some editing with photochop on the colors and see what myself and you guys think.

/End novel.
 
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NightMares

NightMares

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Tails are in. Will update tonight with more pictures when it's dark out.

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NightMares

NightMares

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Just my luck for the night. Went to grab some night pics of the tail lights and found a backup bulb out. Pitstop at ohreally and picked up these sweethearts.

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Passenger side in.

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And the darker night shots

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Park lights

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Brake/signal

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NightMares

NightMares

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Took her out this morning for some much needed stress relief. Nothing like a 3 hour loop through the mountains to get to work. Kiddo's got dropped off with grandparents last night for some Halloween event they're taking them too. Forgot to turn my alarm off last night, couldn't fall back asleep this morning. After laying in bed for about 15 minutes I got the brilliant idea to take the "long way" to work.

Only got a few pics of the truck as majority of my trip was done in the dark.

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NightMares

NightMares

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Alright, got started on the bumper Saturday night. Got the wings fit and welded on. It went together easy, didn't fit 100 percent and required some slight modification to properly fit together, but all it all was very straight forward. There is hardly any instructions, some parts were labeled and some weren't, but nothing to cry about.

I got the wings tacked and ready to be welded by my co-worker, but after playing with it decided to just go for it. There's a few things that I'll have him finish up that I'll need a true welder for, such as the frame brackets, winch tray and shackle mounts. I don't trust my flux welder for safety purposes on items like that. But tonight I'll finish everything else up. All that's left now for me to do is weld the end caps on, mock and tack the light tabs, weld those in. Then mock and fit the winch tray, then tack it into place. From there this weekend I'll get the truck on a hoist and pull the factory bumper, then fit and tack the frame mounts on. Hopefully my co-worker will be free Saturday night to finish up the welding so I can get it sprayed. From there on Saturday night before heading home I'll run all my wiring for the lights, then come Sunday install the winch and lights into the bumper, then throw the bumper on the truck.

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Now I'm contemplating whether or not I want to order in the Amerihood for the truck to officially finish off the front of the truck, or start on the rear and order in the rear Move bumper to match the front.

If the decision is made to do the hood, I'm going to grab buy some universal shackle mounts and weld them into the stock rear bumper to start the "off road" look in the rear. While painting the hood, I'll also paint the rear bumper.

If I instead do the rear bumper, I'm also going to order in a second Engo 12k synthetic winch and fabricate a winch mount where the spare tire currently is. From there I'll mount the fairlead and a second prolink out the rear bumper so I have front and rear winches.

Either way I got they're both going to happen. I just need to decide where to start.
 
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NightMares

NightMares

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Small update. Finally brought the winch and 20" light bar home last night. Changed my mind on going Rigid (apparently dropped Rigid everything for my truck ha). I instead took a 20" Engo multi-function light bar. Wireless remote, white, amber, and strobe features.

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I also picked up my Factor 55 Prolink in red today on my lunch break. Decided last minute today that I wanted the 1" fairlead from them as well, so I called them back and will pick that up tonight after I'm off work. Kind of cool that they're based here in Boise with me, no ordering required, just local pickup. Fairlead is a dark charcoal, Prolink is red. Should go well with the truck I think. I'll update with pictures of the fairlead later tonight after I grab it.

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So to clarify, here's the following final build of this bumper:

-MOVE front base bumper with winch, dual 4x3" openings, 20" opening
-Upol Raptor tintable w/ PR4 base to match
-Engo 12k winch with synthetic rope
-Engo wireless winch controller
-Factor 55 Prolink in red
-Factor 55 1" hawse fairlead
-CSI 4x3" LED flood lights
-CSI 4x3" LED spot lights
-Engo 20" LED multi function light bar
 

Johnn123

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Nothing new to add at the moment as to what I have done. This week sometime after work I plan on sanding and painting the coil springs and control arms red. When I install the lift, I'll clean, sand, and paint the tie rods and track bar as well. I thought about having them powder coated, but I'll save that for later as I hope to have at least the DOR long arm kit, track bar, and steering installed within the next year or so, at that time I'll spend the coins to get those parts powder coated along with the coil springs.

But, in the meantime, I've finally completed my build list for the truck. I'm sure some things some will be questionable for some people, but I'll clarify why I'm doing all this.

Suspension:
DOR Extreme bent long arm upgrade
DOR Extreme track bar
DOR Extreme steering with fox stabilizer
DOR rear 4 link conversion
SAW coilovers set to 7" front and 5" rear

Tires/Wheels:
Nitto Trail Grapplers 37x12.50x17
Ultra Xtreme 103 Satin Black beadlocks

Gears & Axles:
Factory Dana 44
Custom full truss
ARB locker
ARB breather
ARB diff cover
Yukon inner shafts
Yukon front hub conversion
Yukon 4.56 gears
Yukon master overhaul w/ Timken bearings
Factory Chrysler 9.25
Custom full truss
Yukon axle shafts
Yukon positraction
Yukon 4.56 gears
Yukon master overhaul w/ Timken bearings
Yukon steel diff cover

Exterior:
MOVE DIY front base bumper
Engo 12k synthetic winch
MOVE DIY rear bumper
Tiregate PreRunner series
FabFours headache rack w/ Modifier
Amerihood SSK fiberglass hood
RBP black grille insert
Bushwacker pocket flares
Custom build sliders

Lighting:
Rigid 20" combo recessed in front bumper
Rigid Dually SAE fog lights recessed in front bumper
Rigid D2 hyperspots recessed in front bumper
Rigid Dually diffused recessed in rear bumper
Rigid Dually flood recessed in headache rack rear facing
Rigid Dually flood recessed in headache rack side facing

And that's my build. The bumpers and fender flares, along with bottom sides of the doors/rockers/bed will be sprayed in red Upol Raptor liner tinted red to match the truck. The hood will be sprayed and blended into the front fenders, and the grille shell will also be resprayed as well due to clear fading. The headache rack is available in raw, so I'll order it in that way and have it powder coated to match the TireGate. I'll also probably have the fuel door cover powder semi gloss, and the sliders coated to match as well.

I've decided to keep the factory axles for two reasons:

1) Keep costs low. I can't forsee a time in the nearish future to fork out close to 5k an axle

2) Keep size down. 3/4 ton gear might direct swap in, but then I'm looking at larger tires to compensate for clearance. My truck is being built as a heavy wheeler and display truck for my work. Appearance needs to be appeasing, thus the hood and grille and etc, but also functional, thus the lockers, sliders, winch, etc. My work has done the math, and a Jeep on 35's with Dana 44's clearance wise is equivalent to a Jeep on 40's with Dana 60's. So initially to run the 60's and achieve the same ground clearance I'll have with 37's, something along the lines of 42" tires will have to go on. A full size truck on 42's is not a practical wheeler.

I'm playing with the idea of a rear winch installed where the factory spare tire is and fairlead built into the rear bumper, but we'll see where that goes. I might have to cut a panel out of the bottom of the bed to access the winch for repairs, free spool, etc. We'll see what happens.

But yeah, that's it. Thoughts from anyone?

Just an FYI, you are going to EAT through front end parts being a heavy off roader and on 37's. I would highly suggest Dana 60s for your build. This is not a jeep, this is a full size Ram. You should be able to snag a set for a couple hundred an axle used. Direct bolt in, many people who offroad these Rams do this swap because the D44 is not strong enough for the application, nor is the Chrysler 9.25. These axles were never meant to have 37" tires on them on a full size Ram.

Just my 2c for your build since you're putting so much in to it! Can't wait to see more progress!
 

Merc225hp

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^^^ Now if he took all those fancy diff parts and put them in 60's that would be a diff story.
 
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NightMares

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Just an FYI, you are going to EAT through front end parts being a heavy off roader and on 37's. I would highly suggest Dana 60s for your build. This is not a jeep, this is a full size Ram. You should be able to snag a set for a couple hundred an axle used. Direct bolt in, many people who offroad these Rams do this swap because the D44 is not strong enough for the application, nor is the Chrysler 9.25. These axles were never meant to have 37" tires on them on a full size Ram.

Just my 2c for your build since you're putting so much in to it! Can't wait to see more progress!

^^^ Now if he took all those fancy diff parts and put them in 60's that would be a diff story.


I'll leave this here below.


I've decided to keep the factory axles for two reasons:

1) Keep costs low. I can't forsee a time in the nearish future to fork out close to 5k an axle

2) Keep size down. 3/4 ton gear might direct swap in, but then I'm looking at larger tires to compensate for clearance. My truck is being built as a heavy wheeler and display truck for my work. Appearance needs to be appeasing, thus the hood and grille and etc, but also functional, thus the lockers, sliders, winch, etc. My work has done the math, and a Jeep on 35's with Dana 44's clearance wise is equivalent to a Jeep on 40's with Dana 60's. So initially to run the 60's and achieve the same ground clearance I'll have with 37's, something along the lines of 42" tires will have to go on. A full size truck on 42's is not a practical wheeler.

I've stated my justification on it. I've also stated before that I'm well aware of the fact that Dana 60's bolt in. I'm not saying you guys are wrong, and I'm not saying I'm right. What I am saying is, Dana 60's are too big. I know this truck is not a jeep, I've never once compared it to, nor said it was. Facts are Facts. Dana 60's are stronger, but I, that's me, cannot justify the loss of clearance by swapping them in. Building up my axles is the best route in my case. It's my opinion, my truck. If i do break something, you're more than welcome to point fingers and laugh at my expense. Until then, this is the route I will plan on.

Not to mention I'm at least a year out before I'm ready for 37's. I plan on finishing up cosmetics, recovery, and trail armor before tackling the long arm, rear 4 link, and coilovers.

Now, onto current status, I picked up the fairlead after work. Looks awesome, I'm getting stoked to finish this bumper build.

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Merc225hp

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So any motor work planed on this rig?
Mind explaining how I lost clearance going to 60's
 
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NightMares

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Nothing aside from small stuff motor wise. Intake, throttle body, maybe some internals.

Clearance is from the center pumpkin and tubes. The 60's are massive compared to the 44 and 9.25 axles. The lowest point on a 60 is almost 3" lower than a 44. May not sound like much, but every inch counts. Same idea behind a 5" lift and a 7" lift, or 35" tires and 37" tires.

I'm not going to argue with you or try to prove me right or you wrong. This is my decision, please respect my opinion. If you choose to prove me wrong, by all means go for it. I refuse to argue over a forum about something that has yet to, or might not even happen.

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Johnn123

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I'll leave this here below.




I've stated my justification on it. I've also stated before that I'm well aware of the fact that Dana 60's bolt in. I'm not saying you guys are wrong, and I'm not saying I'm right. What I am saying is, Dana 60's are too big. I know this truck is not a jeep, I've never once compared it to, nor said it was. Facts are Facts. Dana 60's are stronger, but I, that's me, cannot justify the loss of clearance by swapping them in. Building up my axles is the best route in my case. It's my opinion, my truck. If i do break something, you're more than welcome to point fingers and laugh at my expense. Until then, this is the route I will plan on.

Not to mention I'm at least a year out before I'm ready for 37's. I plan on finishing up cosmetics, recovery, and trail armor before tackling the long arm, rear 4 link, and coilovers.

Now, onto current status, I picked up the fairlead after work. Looks awesome, I'm getting stoked to finish this bumper build.

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No worries man, just wanted to make sure you knew how these axles react to bigger tires on these trucks! You're putting a lot of work into her, didn't want to see you disappointed with the stock axles performance. :favorites13:
I had a very bad experience with my 01's D44, which is why I'm not a fan of them lol.

Another interesting route you could go is a hybrid axle. IIRC you weld the "C"'s from a 60 onto the 44, and that allows you to use the the 60s front end parts on a 44. That shouldn't affect clearance either. Just a thought anyways!

Really interested to see your 4-link rear build, any plans on how to accomplish that yet?
 
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NightMares

NightMares

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No worries man, just wanted to make sure you knew how these axles react to bigger tires on these trucks! You're putting a lot of work into her, didn't want to see you disappointed with the stock axles performance. :favorites13:
I had a very bad experience with my 01's D44, which is why I'm not a fan of them lol.

Another interesting route you could go is a hybrid axle. IIRC you weld the "C"'s from a 60 onto the 44, and that allows you to use the the 60s front end parts on a 44. That shouldn't affect clearance either. Just a thought anyways!

I've actually thought about something like that. My main concern with a 60 is the pumpkin. They hang down lower and they also are taller than the 44's, which requires longer bump stops to prevent the pumpkin from hitting the crossmember or oil pan. They're also thicker forward facing which we've experience clearance issues with track bars when they start to flex, and when I go long arm in the front I hope to stretch the wheelbase forward as much as possible. The 44 is dimension wise what I want to stick with, and using Yukon alloy shafts, ARB locker an a number of other upgrades along with building a full truss for the axle tubes to prevent flexing should solve the front axle problems.

Rear axle wise, I've already talked to Yukon about the c-clips and the install kit I'm ordering eliminates the c-clips so that problem will be solved. Trussing the axle and using upgraded shafts back there should make it stronger with 37's then it's current setup on 35's. Could I have problems still? Yes, I could.

The deal right now is, yes, my truck will be wheeled fairly hard. But, at the same time, it's my daily driver as well right now. Even if I go out off road every weekend with it, I still travel close to 100 miles a day during the work week. It will be street driven more than off road.

Really interested to see your 4-link rear build, any plans on how to accomplish that yet?

Dodge Off Road builds the 4 link kit I plan to use. I'm still working on a price from them for the kit, as they only advertise it with coilovers and to save some coin until I can afford to flip the bill for front and rear coilovers I'd rather just cut some coil buckets off another axle and use coil springs at 5" of lift.

Here's the link

DOR Extreme Rear 4 Link Kit - 2nd Gen 94-02
 

Johnn123

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I've actually thought about something like that. My main concern with a 60 is the pumpkin. They hang down lower and they also are taller than the 44's, which requires longer bump stops to prevent the pumpkin from hitting the crossmember or oil pan. They're also thicker forward facing which we've experience clearance issues with track bars when they start to flex, and when I go long arm in the front I hope to stretch the wheelbase forward as much as possible. The 44 is dimension wise what I want to stick with, and using Yukon alloy shafts, ARB locker an a number of other upgrades along with building a full truss for the axle tubes to prevent flexing should solve the front axle problems.

To be quite honest, and I've seen quite a few of these builds, I've never heard of that small dimension difference turning into a clearance issue. The track bar will hit the diff with wrong length control arms yes, but not if you have the correct lengths, even if its flexed right out. Not saying that's always the case, every vehicle is always different! The hybrid axle maybe something you could look into, possibly turn into a package you could sell at your shop. It definitely eliminates a lot of the problems of the D44. I had a lifted 2g for a couple years, running various tire sizes, 33's and 35's on 4.10s. I went through 12 ball joints, 2 wheel bearings, track bar, 2 tie rod ends, 2 u joints and multiple wheel alignments over 2 and a half years. Mild wheeling. This is why I'm against the D44, don't want people to have to deal with what I did aha.

Rear axle wise, I've already talked to Yukon about the c-clips and the install kit I'm ordering eliminates the c-clips so that problem will be solved. Trussing the axle and using upgraded shafts back there should make it stronger with 37's then it's current setup on 35's. Could I have problems still? Yes, I could.

C-clips almost always turn into a problem on 9.25s, good thing to upgrade. Interested to see how you truss it.

The deal right now is, yes, my truck will be wheeled fairly hard. But, at the same time, it's my daily driver as well right now. Even if I go out off road every weekend with it, I still travel close to 100 miles a day during the work week. It will be street driven more than off road.



Dodge Off Road builds the 4 link kit I plan to use. I'm still working on a price from them for the kit, as they only advertise it with coilovers and to save some coin until I can afford to flip the bill for front and rear coilovers I'd rather just cut some coil buckets off another axle and use coil springs at 5" of lift.

Here's the link

DOR Extreme Rear 4 Link Kit - 2nd Gen 94-02

Ahh cool, good kit. Really expensive however! My 4g has a coil spring 4 link rear, can grab some pics if ya like if itll help and give ya some ideas. Have to go under to oil spray anyways :crazy:

Answers in red, was easier haha.
 
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NightMares

NightMares

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Answers in red, was easier haha.

You are correct on a lot of the clearance issues, but I've seen the differences among a lot of vehicles. This is my 3rd 2nd gen, not including the other trucks I've helped work on that my buddies have owned, or even the few that we've built since I've worked at my job. Like I said, the difference is size doesn't necessarily seem like much, but inches make a large difference in the off road world. As I said, same idea behind a 5" lift and a 7" or 35" tires and 37" tires.

I will look further into the hybrid option for the front, and depending on how the 4 link goes together I have toyed with the idea of a 60 or 70 in the rear of the truck as I don't need as much articulation back there, but didn't want to intertwine 8 lug rear 5 lug front.

My original plan was to get the Dynatrac Hybrid 44/60 axles, but again, I don't forsee myself being able to fork out almost 10 grand for axles alone. For that cost, I'd throw 60's on it, run 42's, and trim the snot out of the front fenders and bed sides to be able to keep the stance of the truck low.

On that subject, I'm thinking I might pick up a set of front fenders for the truck. Found a pair on craigslist for $100 for both. Thinking I might try to cut them and fabricate up some tube style flares that open up the wheel well more. If that's possible for me to do, I might consider going 60 axles as I can get more articulation out of it with more tire clearance.


Different subject:

As far as paint goes, I've decided to stay PR4. My idea was to change it up to red and gray instead of red and black, but there's too many random parts on the truck that would need repainted from black to gray that I think looks tacky when done (mirrors, door handles, grille inserts, etc).

So, Flame Red and black accents it will stay. Decided wheel wise I'm going to go with some 20" Fuel Savage gloss black with milled windows on some 35" Terra Grapplers, then when I have the suspension and axles ready for 37's I'll do some 17" Ultra Xtreme 103 beadlocks with Trail Grapplers. Still designing the rack system in the rear to house the five 37's (or 35's when the 37's are mounted on the truck). Will probably secure them using some kind of cargo netting secured over the top. Tires will not be kept in truck permanently, just on long distance trips. That's where I'm trying to figure out how to keep the rack system removable. I'll update with some designs once I find one that works.
 

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You are correct on a lot of the clearance issues, but I've seen the differences among a lot of vehicles. This is my 3rd 2nd gen, not including the other trucks I've helped work on that my buddies have owned, or even the few that we've built since I've worked at my job. Like I said, the difference is size doesn't necessarily seem like much, but inches make a large difference in the off road world. As I said, same idea behind a 5" lift and a 7" or 35" tires and 37" tires.

I will look further into the hybrid option for the front, and depending on how the 4 link goes together I have toyed with the idea of a 60 or 70 in the rear of the truck as I don't need as much articulation back there, but didn't want to intertwine 8 lug rear 5 lug front.

Well if you go with the hybrid axle you'll be using D60 wheel bearings, so wouldn't have to worry about mix matched lug patterns :D

My original plan was to get the Dynatrac Hybrid 44/60 axles, but again, I don't forsee myself being able to fork out almost 10 grand for axles alone. For that cost, I'd throw 60's on it, run 42's, and trim the snot out of the front fenders and bed sides to be able to keep the stance of the truck low.

Ya true that, that's waaaaay to much cash for axles.

On that subject, I'm thinking I might pick up a set of front fenders for the truck. Found a pair on craigslist for $100 for both. Thinking I might try to cut them and fabricate up some tube style flares that open up the wheel well more. If that's possible for me to do, I might consider going 60 axles as I can get more articulation out of it with more tire clearance.

Any reference pics for what you were thinking?

Different subject:

As far as paint goes, I've decided to stay PR4. My idea was to change it up to red and gray instead of red and black, but there's too many random parts on the truck that would need repainted from black to gray that I think looks tacky when done (mirrors, door handles, grille inserts, etc).

Red and black I think will pop much more than red and gray.

So, Flame Red and black accents it will stay. Decided wheel wise I'm going to go with some 20" Fuel Savage gloss black with milled windows on some 35" Terra Grapplers, then when I have the suspension and axles ready for 37's I'll do some 17" Ultra Xtreme 103 beadlocks with Trail Grapplers. Still designing the rack system in the rear to house the five 37's (or 35's when the 37's are mounted on the truck). Will probably secure them using some kind of cargo netting secured over the top. Tires will not be kept in truck permanently, just on long distance trips. That's where I'm trying to figure out how to keep the rack system removable. I'll update with some designs once I find one that works.

Interested to see how this turns out!

Answers in red again :D
 
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NightMares

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Answers in red again :D

I'm OCD so I'll break yours up haha

Well if you go with the hybrid axle you'll be using D60 wheel bearings, so wouldn't have to worry about mix matched lug patterns

That's why I said I'll consider the hybrid idea. Keeps my clearance up on the 44 but matches the lug pattern for the rear if I swap to an HD axle.

As I said, I'm still a ways out before I get around to drive train stuff. Who knows, maybe I'll come across a steal on some 60's and I'll spend the time to make them work.


Ya true that, that's waaaaay to much cash for axles.

A lot of money, but well worth it. Maybe some day when I'm rich.

Any reference pics for what you were thinking?

I can envision it, but I'm no artist so I can't really draw it out. Easiest just to post a picture for a jeep that explains it.

Basically where you see the fender will be the stock ram fender. I'll cut it almost flush at the rear end of it, bring the cut almost all the way to the top of the fender, then bring it down almost flush behind the headlight.

It'll appear like this.

JK100F.png


And something like this when done

LucianoVerdura09X-1440w-L.jpg

If I am successful in building the front fenders, plan is to try to find a second short bed to do the same with in the rear. I want to try to keep the factory body parts just in case anything ever happens and I have to sell the truck, or I decide to do something different with it such as bushwackers or something like that, I can always revert back to stock.

Red and black I think will pop much more than red and gray.

The red was going to be a dark red with a charcoal gray, but I agree red and black pop a lot more, particularly if it's flame red.

Interested to see how this turns out!

I'm thinking of making it simple but functional. Be able to have the rack and tires secured into the bed of the truck within say 20 minutes? I'll have them in the truck for both long travel runs (run the 35's on the highway to places like the Rubicon, Moab, etc, then swap the 37's onto the truck at the trailhead), but also have them in the truck for our shows and events I'll attend.




New subject again: I gave up on the DOR front long arm for a while. I went to start painting the suspension parts last night and discovered my control arms that were sitting on the shelf have had bushings and hardware robbed out of them. I called BDS to order the new bushings since apparently stock bushings and the BDS bushings I have here on my shelf don't fit, and my rep made me a deal too good to pass up on the BDS long arm upgrade. So, it's on its way.

This is going to put off the bumper install until probably next weekend due to me wanting to do the bumper, lift and headlights all at the same time. Which I'm running out of time to get the bumper done by this weekend anyways since my wife says I have to go to this trunk or treat deal tonight for our daughters, then Saturday is Halloween so after I'm off work we'll be getting ready to travel the valley for the best neighborhoods to get the full size candy bars, blah blah blah. Then Sunday is "family day" so I probably won't get the chance to do anything to the bumper aside from tomorrow night.

Monday I'll be going hard on the bumper to get it finished, grinded, cleaned up and painted by the weekend. Same once the long arm gets here I want to get it all scuffed and sprayed red, along with the coils.

I still plan on getting the DOR in the future, but I figure for less than $200 more than what I paid for the set of 4 control arms I can have a better ride and more articulation in the mean time until I'm ready for the rear 4 link kit. When I do the rear 4 link, I'll also do the DOR front long arm kit to incorporate in the belly pan build.

But hey, should like ******* for now at least.
 
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