Squids 88 thread

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crazzywolfie

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ok. just making sure. i yanked that crap off my 89 also but my pump was seized so it was no good anyways. it also allows you to ground the engine better. the stock ground usually bolts to the pump bracket somewhere and eventually makes a crappy ground. i ended up moving the end of the ground wire to the front of the engine block just like it was on my 81. i think i ended up having to grab a short bolt to do that but i had tons sitting around from previous trucks.
 

Sniper X

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Awesome you got it running? Nice work!
 
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3Squids

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Thanks. I'd be along a lot further if I had a shop and/or it wasn't so chilly out. I put some antifreeze in it and it appears to be leaking out of a couple rusted out freeze plugs. So at this point now that I know it runs, doesn't have any knocks, doesn't smoke and trans seems to be pretty responsive I think my plan is going to be pull the motor/trans. Clean everything up. Reseal the motor. Paint up the engine bay/frame and put the motor back in. Do a little body work and paint her up. Weather here probably won't cooperate at least until march so I been on the lookout for a little shop to rent. I used to rent one for $300/mo. when I raced but he's got someone else in it right now. He said if it frees up I'd be the first he'd call since when I had it I basically remodeled the place free of charge.


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crazzywolfie

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ya that looks like the type of tank i was talking about. they are a bit tall and don't have a return line but they are easier to get parts for. i think it would be pretty easy to mod compared to fixing the 88-90 setups. i am just not 100% sure how the fuel sending unit with it would work with the stock setup. i haven't got to test that yet. i think the jeep tank has is 24ohms resistance at full and 270ohms resistance empty.
 
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3Squids

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I guess it would be a good start and for $20 why not. Gonna go pick it up tomorrow. Today a buddy came by and helped me get the bed completely off. I got the trim pulled of and sanded a bit on the rust to get a good view of how far it goes. Doesn't seem to be too bad.

Drivers side.
86413EC2-599E-47E5-A374-9F229428EB42_zpsmekzkhqb.jpg

Passenger side
C7BA40D8-8846-4F7B-A01D-DC64F7E06838_zps4r5biyun.jpg


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crazzywolfie

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ya for $20 i don't think you could go too wrong. currently i am using my for storing fuel. never let them sit completely empty. if you do the pumps tend to seize up.

that don't look too bad. even the frame looks to be in pretty good shape unless the previous owner painted it and even then it looks smooth.
 
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3Squids

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Got the tank today. Definitely think I can make it work.

The frame is exceptionally clean and I have a suspicion its factory as there are stencil painted numbers all along it that have never been painted over. Every one who has seen this truck in person is blown away by how solid it is.


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crazzywolfie

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it wouldn't surprise me if it was factory paint. the frame looks clean enough and it not pitted with rust. kind of makes me think of the parts truck that my buddy and i bought a couple years ago. i regret tearing the thing apart since it was such a clean truck. could have easily saved it.
 
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3Squids

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Ok so here's what I think I have figured out. Correct me if I'm wrong. My truck has a supply, return and vent line. The jeep tank has a supply and vent. So the jeeps psi is controlled with the in tank pump and requires no return line. My truck psi is controlled by the FPR at the TB and leftover fuel is sent back. Now I assume the in tank pump in the jeep is regulated by many more components in the system and not the pump itself so if I hook it up to the constant 12v supply that my dodge has would it essentially become a 100% duty cycle pump?

Or should I use the pump itself from the dodge in the jeep sending unit housing pending I could mount it in the housing.

Then drill and mount a barb fitting for a return line into the tank??


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crazzywolfie

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my idea with this was just to add a return line to the jeep tank and just use the jeep pump. both the jeep and dodge pump are likely rated to move about the same amount of fuel.
 
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3Squids

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Ordered B-van lower control arms and spring perches to flip the rear today. Why???.. Couldn't think of a reason why not.


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3Squids

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Fits like a glove.
308B8EBA-6E67-4AB1-A798-91EBA39919C9_zps5pmexu3j.jpg

14322B59-9E3F-4C52-BF44-83139D9F8EED_zpsmrzgwdop.jpg

Obviously this is just setting the temporarily as you can tell by the string holding it up. Going to get some 1x2 steel tubing and fab up upper brackets to hold it in place then strap it underneath just like a factory setup. Filler neck is going to take some creative thinking but I will come up with something.

Wired it up temporarily today and fuel pump comes on correctly. Wired up the gauge and it appears the jeep unit uses different ohms then the dodge unit. If I lift the float all the way up the gauge reads 9/16 of a tank. With the float right around 1/2 way down the needle sits on the mark at the E. anyone know of any way I can change this?

I bought an 4-AN bulkhead fitting and a couple push on hose fittings to make a return. Drilled the tank and installed the bulkhead with neoprene washers to seal it up. I assume gas won't hurt the neoprene.


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crazzywolfie

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looks good. definitely fits the space nicely. you could possibly bent the arm down to change where E sits but i am not sure if you would be able to change were full is. the resistance for the gauge to read full would need to be 0.
 
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3Squids

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Good point about getting it to read E. that's really all that matters.

Also if you look in the pic I had to grind some rivets off and slide the rear crossmember back. Once I get it all mounted up I'll either bolt or weld it back in.


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crazzywolfie

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i didn't catch the cross member at first but i did notice the grinder lol. probably better to bolt it back on
 
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3Squids

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I've been following a YouTube video build of a truck and the owner does renditions of vehicles so I figured what the heck. Gave him the basic gist of what I wanted and turned him loose. Turned out pretty good I think. Way better than I could of ever done.
007D6143-321C-4694-AA74-8E5AB17C166E_zpsagnybv0p.jpg


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3Squids

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Been a while. Not much has changed. Finally starting to warm up here. Recently I went ahead and did an axle flip and can LCAs. Definitely needs a couple more inches. Thinking about front hanger flip and Dakota spindles, soon as I find some solid info on how to do the spindle swap.

Also I though It got the deal of a lifetime on some wheels. They are 22x10 SRT chrome wheels and had brand new tires. But the tires are way too big. Also being 10" wide I'll have to mini tub the bed which I really don't mind doing. However there's no way they will work up front. In the pics the tire is actually holding the truck up. I know taking out the inner fenders is probably going to happen anyways but there's no way it'll turn. So I guess it's back to the drawing board, at least for the fronts anyway. I'm thinking about just getting some 20x9's for the front and keeping what I got in the back and mini tubbing it. I kinda did the big, fat tire in the rear.
B210347C-FB3F-4A99-96F7-7F2733E5D319_zpsyuhdtjkj.jpg

9BA892D6-9336-443B-9801-196B7A4EE4FD_zpsubcppxxo.jpg


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crazzywolfie

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looks pretty good but them rims definitely seem a bit big for these truck. also don't necessarily need to go for superwide front tires. could go with narrower tires up front and wide tires out back. also if you are going to tub the rear end you may possibly want to decide how wide of tires you want/can run back there. could maybe even get use a dually box or cut your box to run dually fender flares. either way i think it would look pretty sweat with some racing slicks under it
 
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