4th Gen 32 Gal Fuel Tank Swap Questions

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****** me off because I love the remote start. If my truck is sitting in the sun in July it's awful inside here in Houston. If it would just not start I'd be more ok with it. Starting and shutting down right away is not good for the engine.

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My Ram and actually my Yukon XL both had/have factory remote start and then added aftermarket remote start and both still work. The factory ones check for that the aftermarket ones don’t care.
 

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I guess I'll be bring this post back once again. I just picked up a 2016 Ram 1500 Rebel, and have been doing research on this topic. I wanted to see if you also need to replace the sending unit aswell. If so do you happen to have the part number for that. The part number the tank I found was 68242021AC. Lastly, did you have to take your truck it to get the computer reprogrammed for the new gear?

Post pics and make a DIY!
 

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Gero, I found this pretty good video on how to remove the tank. It seems very detailed.
 

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Hey! Sorry to resurrecting this thread again but I have some questions I can't figure out. Its regarding the evap canister and the fuel like from the evap canister to the truck.

My 32g did not come with an evap can. I think I can reuse the 26g evap can but the problem is the fuel line. The line from the evap can to the line that going along the frame rail...can someone confirm if its the same?

I watched boostedmotorsport's video while crawling under my truck and that line I mentioned above seems quite different. I called the dealer and they're clueless. Might have to drop by the dealer and look at the diagram on their screen.

Here's the two lines...#1 from evap and #2 from the quick connect that goes along the frame rail

Tha ks!

20200916_211154.jpg
 
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Hey! Sorry to resurrecting this thread again but I have some questions I can't figure out. Its regarding the evap canister and the fuel like from the evap canister to the truck.

My 32g did not come with an evap can. I think I can reuse the 26g evap can but the problem is the fuel line. The line from the evap can to the line that going along the frame rail...can someone confirm if its the same?

I watched boostedmotorsport's video while crawling under my truck and that line I mentioned above seems quite different. I called the dealer and they're clueless. Might have to drop by the dealer and look at the diagram on their screen.

Here's the two lines...#1 from evap and #2 from the quick connect that goes along the frame rail

Tha ks!

View attachment 221678
The line is slightly different yes but it isn’t enough to make it not work. The angle is a little odd but it does work. I just used the fuel line that came on the 32 to hook into where the 26 was. Clips are the same as well.
 

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The line is slightly different yes but it isn’t enough to make it not work. The angle is a little odd but it does work. I just used the fuel line that came on the 32 to hook into where the 26 was. Clips are the same as well.
Thanks for the quick response. Do you remember if the evap canister is the same too?

Evap line on the 32g seems to be cut? Can see it in the picture below.

20200916_213400.jpg
 
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Yup I left the one that came on it. I did end up replacing the little leak detection pump because the one that was on salvage unit failed. So I put the one on from the 26 and it was all good.
 
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It looks like they cut the one that is quick connect on so you can probably use your old one or worse case buy that piece as though it came with a 32. Back by that red connector.
 

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Thanks for the info. Will be tackling this in a few weeks. Did you ever reprogrammed your obd? Whether at the dealer or with alfa?
 

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I am also trying to swap out my 26 gallon tank for a 32 gallon one. Picked it up and it appears to be a 26 gal. Gero, just to verify the pictures above are of the 32 gal tank right? Does any one have a picture of the 2 tanks side by side? I search online and was surprised to not find one. Thanks!
 

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Anyone know how to reprogram the cluster to recognize the 32 gallon tank besides the dealer? Mine came from the factory with a 32 gallon tank but the cluster is set for 26, I verified that with a Scantool. Thanks
 

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I am also trying to swap out my 26 gallon tank for a 32 gallon one. Picked it up and it appears to be a 26 gal. Gero, just to verify the pictures above are of the 32 gal tank right? Does any one have a picture of the 2 tanks side by side? I search online and was surprised to not find one. Thanks!

Yes with 100% certainty that my picture is from a 32g. I attached another picture at a different angle. Everything seems exactly the same except its about 12" longer at the front. I'm trying to figure out 100% if both evap canister for a 26g is the same for 32g. Im quite sure it is but ram uses different part numbers. Have a look at the diagram attached.

Evap for 26g (5147067AH)
Evap for 32g (5147075AH)

I'm debating whether to source the 32g evap can or just risk starting the install without it.

Also the hose from the evap canister to the frame rail fuel line is 68159739aa. This is the hose that you'll need from the 32g tank.

Screenshot_20200917-224214_Chrome.jpg

20200916_211004.jpg
 

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I just completed this swap. It isnt too bad but definitely handy to have a friend.

I can confirm the parts needed. You don't need to use the evap vapor hose from the 32g tank, you use the one from the 26g. The evap from the 26 and 32g look identical. I ended up using the 32g evap can.

20201012_211505.jpg

20201012_211511.jpg

20201012_211528.jpg
 

Fire4Effect

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Anyone know how to reprogram the cluster to recognize the 32 gallon tank besides the dealer? Mine came from the factory with a 32 gallon tank but the cluster is set for 26, I verified that with a Scantool. Thanks
Appcar DiagFCA

It’s $50, but then you can program other features as well. You need a legit ELM327 cable though. The cheap ones won’t work.
 

Fire4Effect

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I just completed this swap. It isnt too bad but definitely handy to have a friend.

I can confirm the parts needed. You don't need to use the evap vapor hose from the 32g tank, you use the one from the 26g. The evap from the 26 and 32g look identical. I ended up using the 32g evap can.

View attachment 224484

View attachment 224485

View attachment 224486

I don’t see where the second line goes at the front of the tank. I have a line, but nothing to connect it to. The service manual is worthless and all of the diagrams I found were for older models. Mine is a 2009.
 

Fire4Effect

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I don’t see where the second line goes at the front of the tank. I have a line, but nothing to connect it to. The service manual is worthless and all of the diagrams I found were for older models. Mine is a 2009.

Disregard. I’m an idiot. That line is up against the frame rail. I couldn’t see it because of crappy lighting.
 

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Appcar DiagFCA

It’s $50, but then you can program other features as well. You need a legit ELM327 cable though. The cheap ones won’t work.

Thanks!

And this is different that Alfaobd?
 

Fire4Effect

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Just a couple of tips for others who may take on this tank swap adventure:

The connections are pretty straightforward, but you can mark them with tape to make it easier.

Make sure there is no damage to the rollover valve on the new tank. Once that is done, make sure you don’t damage the rollover valve yourself. From everything I’ve read, they are not meant to be removed and the part is not available by itself. I say this because I broke off one of the connections and it took me days to figure out the best way to fix it. (My solution was to use a roll pin just slightly larger than the holes to connect the two broken pieces. You’ll most likely have to ream it with a drill bit. I gently tapped the pin into the valve, then tapped the broken piece onto the pin. You can use JB Weld or similar on the pin to secure it further. I didn’t and it seems fine.)

If you’re using a lift, for God’s sake use the mechanical advantage of raising and lowering the vehicle from the tank. I had a solid platform to lower the old tank onto and then stage the new one. For some stupid reason I decided to manhandle the new tank into position instead of leaving it on the platform, which I how I broke the rollover valve.

Make sure everything is connected when you are done. I thought I double and triple checked, but I missed one connection, resulting in a month of the gas cap light P0457 and evap leak P0456 codes. The connection was at the front of the tank and had to be viewed with a mirror. Once it was connected, it still took a couple of days for the gas cap and service engine lights to go out.

Double check the fuel line connector at the engine before you fire things up. It may seem locked in place when it is not.
 
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