4WD Slips out under load

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sg11

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It sounds like you burned the clutches as previously stated. I have had a few of these cases come in with burnt clutches and always get the same story. "Was just driving along" or "was just slightly stuck and couldn't get out"
So I am not sure if these cases are junk or the failed ones are from incompetence or abuse, you get kinda cynical after being lied to on a daily basis by customers.
To the OP. just to satisfy my curiosity, were you being real stupid with this thing or just rocking to get out of being slightly stuck?
No judgement just trying to get insight on these case failures. I will be the first to admit I've done some stupid ****

I was rocking to get out. I'm not going to lie and say I was being super easy on it but also I wasn't being an idiot. It's a vehicle I'm paying for for 5 years so I would prefer not to drive the snot out of it.
I checked the fluid today in the transfer case and it's pure black and smells burnt. As simple as it is I'm disappointed the dealership would not check this.
 

yoda

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Sounds like your dealer may not be familiar to how these cases work, I wasn't until I had the first one come in failed.
In the old days when a new product came out there would be a class on how it works, disassemble, put back together in class. Now, not so much, really hard to keep up.
Especially for smaller dealers with full line of products. Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram.
 

yoda

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I was rocking to get out. I'm not going to lie and say I was being super easy on it but also I wasn't being an idiot. It's a vehicle I'm paying for for 5 years so I would prefer not to drive the snot out of it.
I checked the fluid today in the transfer case and it's pure black and smells burnt. As simple as it is I'm disappointed the dealership would not check this.

How long did you continue to rock it after the over temp warning came on? Just curious, You would think the electronics would be smart enough to disable the front axle completely if it sensed it was getting to much slippage and heat.
Under normal driving they are nice, but it is beyond me why they put a 4 lock position and don't actually lock the front and rear shafts. Just for the type of situation you were in.
 

SilverStreak88

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I'm guessing tires were no good in this, tires make all the difference, no need to overwork something that doesn't need to be.
 
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sg11

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How long did you continue to rock it after the over temp warning came on? Just curious, You would think the electronics would be smart enough to disable the front axle completely if it sensed it was getting to much slippage and heat.
Under normal driving they are nice, but it is beyond me why they put a 4 lock position and don't actually lock the front and rear shafts. Just for the type of situation you were in.

The over temp warning came on and that was all she wrote. At that point I gave in aND called for a tow. Coincidentally my friend came and pulled me out with my previous truck I sold him lol. The truck sat for over an hour while waiting for him and still threw the code up once I was pulled out.
I agree it does suck especially when you have no clue the transfer case is ran off a clutch lol. Next time I'd just say screw it and wait to be pulled out (hopefully there is no next time but who knows what predicament you may end up in in the snow belt). It makes it all the more painful bring pulled out by the truck I sold to buy this one lol
 

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It's essentially an AWD system (BW 44-44) vs 4WD (BW 44-45). Ram should've programmed it to lock when in lock. But they wanted to idiot proof the auto part of it so people wouldn't break the system on dry roads, so it is programmed to unlock. And since it's unlocking every time the wheels stop spinning (shifting to rock it) and then having to lock again once the wheels spin, it's going to overheat just like a transmission will from incorrect or too much shifting. They failed to educate the dealers and the customers, so now they have people breaking it because they think "yep, it says 4x4 on the back, I can go anywhere on any type of terrain..."

Tires are a huge factor too. Try rolling in the snow or mud on most stock P tires that come with the 20 inch wheels and it's no wonder people are getting stuck and burning up T cases.
 

Murphy Slaw

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I gotta wonder if those Transfer Cases are going to kill the resale value of the Bighorns and Laramie's.

As I've been researching MY next truck, I've pretty much decided there is no way in hell I'd want a used one that I don't know anything about.

I mean it seems like simply using them will start the "wearing out" process.

While a new Bighorn isn't out of the question, I would be a nervous wreck buying one with 30,000 miles and a few WINTERS under it's belt by another owner.........
 

huntergreen

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not worried about my transfer case at all.
 

clh1220

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I gotta wonder if those Transfer Cases are going to kill the resale value of the Bighorns and Laramie's.

As I've been researching MY next truck, I've pretty much decided there is no way in hell I'd want a used one that I don't know anything about.

I mean it seems like simply using them will start the "wearing out" process.

While a new Bighorn isn't out of the question, I would be a nervous wreck buying one with 30,000 miles and a few WINTERS under it's belt by another owner.........

Buy a 15 and have the 100k miles warranty. Or add chrysler warranty to any truck you get. There is not near as many problems with this case. There is a few that have problems. And more that are worried about problems. I had a big horn and now a laramie, and for sure wouldn't go down to a express.
 

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Before anyone decides to switch brands over this,Ram doesn't build T-cases.Most manufacturers use the same BW cases and have for years.Saying all that though having fixed my share of cases I've never been a fan of "Auto 4wd".In fact for dependability I'd prefer the old manual shift t-case.
 
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00R/T

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I gotta wonder if those Transfer Cases are going to kill the resale value of the Bighorns and Laramie's.



As I've been researching MY next truck, I've pretty much decided there is no way in hell I'd want a used one that I don't know anything about.



I mean it seems like simply using them will start the "wearing out" process.



While a new Bighorn isn't out of the question, I would be a nervous wreck buying one with 30,000 miles and a few WINTERS under it's belt by another owner.........


I doubt it, primarily because most people don't know enough about them for that to even enter their mind when shopping.

It was a factor for me, but it wasn't as much about being concerned about previous wear. Rather, I just wanted a more simplistic "old school" t-case.
 
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sg11

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I brought the truck back in today and got the call this afternoon that they ordered a new transfer case. Hopefully this one lasts longer and if not hopefully it goes before warranty is up lol jk. Now that I know how it operates I'll definitely be a little more cautious about abuse on it :(
 

BigDogg795

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What ever happened with the kit that was being developed to replace the clutch pack with a gear set to get rid of the clutches? :hmm:
 

CostaRam

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Skerj:
So you are saying that Auto 4x4 and 4x4 is the same thing and that even being in 4x4 lock the axles get disconnected if no slip is detected?

If this is the truth then there is no need to make the 4x4 lock position, except to mislead the owners and potential buyers ....

Chris
 

Hemi395

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If you have the BW44-44 I would highly recommend changing the fluid often. Being its based on a wet clutch, keeping that fluid fresh and clean is critical.
 

clh1220

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If you have the BW44-44 I would highly recommend changing the fluid often. Being its based on a wet clutch, keeping that fluid fresh and clean is critical.

I'll change mine at 120k miles. Just like the manual says
 

yillbs

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Skerj:
So you are saying that Auto 4x4 and 4x4 is the same thing and that even being in 4x4 lock the axles get disconnected if no slip is detected?

If this is the truth then there is no need to make the 4x4 lock position, except to mislead the owners and potential buyers ....

Chris

So you're saying you don't know how it works, but you felt the need to chime in and give your opinion ,but you have no idea how it works ?

The 4x4 auto switches between 2x4, and 4x4 when slippage is detected.
4WD low, provides lower gearing, and will enable when slippage happens, you'll constantly be in the low range regardless of which wheels spin.

4x4 lock merely means once slippage happens, the 4x4 ( front and back ) will remain spinning. There is a longer elapsed time from when you stop spinning the rear and the front disengaging then when in 4x4 auto.

i'm not saying it's perfect, but you don't understand it, so why hate?
The premises is that you only NEED the front wheels to spin when the rear wheels break loose. the amount of time it takes to engage is something you can't even count, it's that fast. You can give stories about how you were in 50 feet of mud, and needed lockers to get you out, and you almost died because you didn't eat for 10 days, it's moot. When you go into mud, or snow, or ice, you put the truck into 4x4 lock. then you drive out the other side. how, and when the truck locks the axles honestly shouldn't matter. This isn't a rock crawler, it's not a mud bogger.. it's a street truck. The truck will get you out, the case has proven itself time and time again.

with THAT said, their are issues with overheating, their are issues with it not working, because people don't know how to use it. It's not as capable as lockers, but it's JUST as capable as the bw44-45, their are so many people that merely think they push a button and go, that it gets a much worse name than it deserves.

Here is an excellent video showing what the 4x4 system does. Notice how the truck makes it through in 4x4, doesn't matter HOW it makes it through, but when used properly, it makes it through the snow, and ice just fine, no over heating, no endless spinning of tires.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiVFBAb5iCk
 
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CostaRam

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I bought my first 4x4 car in 1988 and had several brands and types of offroad cars and i think i know very well how 4x4 works.

I answered on the statement Skery made:
Ram should've programmed it to lock when in lock. But they wanted to idiot proof the auto part of it so people wouldn't break the system on dry roads, so it is programmed to unlock. And since it's unlocking every time the wheels stop spinning (shifting to rock it) and then having to lock again once the wheels spin, it's going to overheat just like a transmission will from incorrect or too much shifting.
If i interpret the above statement right it means that even in 4x4 lock the clutch is disengaging the front axle if no slip is detected and this is basically what Auto 4x4 is doing.

It is my belief and experience with other cars that 4x4 lock will engage the clutch in the same manner as a manual transfer case moving the lever to 4x4 high would do: connect rear and front axles to have all 4 wheels turning until the selector or the shift stick is disengaged.

Chris
 
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yillbs

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I bought my first 4x4 car in 1988 and had several brands and types of offroad cars and i think i know very well how 4x4 works.

I answered on the statement Skery made:

If i interpret the above statement right it means that even in 4x4 lock the clutch is disengaging the front axle if no slip is detected and this is basically what Auto 4x4 is doing.

It is my belief and experience with other cars that 4x4 lock will engage the clutch in the same manner as a manual transfer case moving the lever to 4x4 high would do: connect rear and front axles to have all 4 wheels turning until the selector or the shift stick is disengaged.

Chris

That's incorrect, in lock it will stay engaged longer after wheel spin has stopped than if it were in auto. Additionally, with it disengaged , less than a quarter of a rotation of the rear tire needs to slip to enable the clutch pack, its extremely efficient and unnoticeable in 99% of situations.

Its over heating because believe t or not , people are often times just not educated on how to use any 4x4 system, that coupled with this one causes issues. People will sit and spin tires literally for 5-10 minutes trying to inch forward. That moronic, you don't need to constantly let off the gas , then give it more gas to rock it out. This is user error in most cases :)
 

cbsmith

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That's incorrect, in lock it will stay engaged longer after wheel spin has stopped than if it were in auto. Additionally, with it disengaged , less than a quarter of a rotation of the rear tire needs to slip to enable the clutch pack, its extremely efficient and unnoticeable in 99% of situations.

Its over heating because believe t or not , people are often times just not educated on how to use any 4x4 system, that coupled with this one causes issues. People will sit and spin tires literally for 5-10 minutes trying to inch forward. That moronic, you don't need to constantly let off the gas , then give it more gas to rock it out. This is user error in most cases :)

It still unlocks way too much for something thst should be locked 100% of the time in 4Lock. It may stay locked longer than 4Auto but it will unlock instantly if you let off the gas. Try backing up a trailer on grass or sand. The back end will kick out every time you let off the gas and press it again.

I had my truck in the shop ad had a rental Big Horn with 4Auto and even when I had it in 4Lo it would unlock when the gas was released and then relook when it spun. It was a royal pain to back the boat down the dirt path and into the water.
 
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