How to negotiate for a Chrysler vehicle and how to pay under invoice before rebates.

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Totesmygoats

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First, a pet peeve. Stop telling people you "paid 10% under invoice" while including rebates in that and leaving out important details. This means nothing and is zero indication of how good of a deal you got. Someone who got "5% under invoice" also including rebates might have gotten a much better deal. (more on that later)


Lets define terms:

Negotiated sales price; This is the price of the vehicle you negotiated, before everything else. Before rebates, registration, dealer fees ETC.

MSRP; Retail price, duh.

Invoice; Price of the car and options on the “invoice” this is NOT dealer cost.

Holdback; Profit for the dealer under invoice price, typically it is 3% of MSRP. STILL not what the dealer actually pays.

Rebates; All Chrysler incentives.

CARP; Chrysler affiliate rewards program. Basically it's a code that lets you walk into any dealer and get 1% under invoice without negotiating and limits the dealer fees that can be charged. Note; negotiating does not stop here. Most salespeople will tell you there's no negotiating with CARP, that's 100% ********. CARP works by giving the dealership 2% of the invoice price, it's basically a coupon. So if you just stick with the 1% off, you are buying a car for 1% over invoice. That makes you a chump. No one with any skill at negotiating pays invoice let alone 1% over it. I've taken the entire 2% from dealers by bringing up I have a code after negotiating a sales price under invoice. Where can I get a CARP number? Either be an employee of a company that gets them, or join a charity called tread lightly at their higher levels, they give one out. It's $100 and you can save $800+ with it. No brainer.



Here is a standard invoice sheet, you and see the invoice price, holdback, and CARP (listed as FFP). If you didn't get one of these you can find invoice pricing various places, or on costcos website https://www.costcoauto.com/ and calculate holdback as 3% of MSRP

PShaKxu.png



What should I be aiming for a negotiated sales price?

Well, we already figured out from the above that a dealers base “cost” is a bit over 3% under invoice, this is before they get their sales volume rebates (which is how high volume dealers make their money). We also know that if you have a CARP number, the dealers gets another 2% of the invoice price back as cash. So you should start by aiming for 3% under, and later on drop the CARP bomb to reach 5% BEFORE any rebates. High volume dealers often choose to sell a vehicle for what they purchased it for, choosing to make all their profit of manufacture sales volume incentives.

The trick is to be knowledgeable, KNOW these numbers, KNOW high volume dealers will sell cars for no upfront profit. If the salesman says “I'm losing money” say no, go through the numbers, and watch his eyes gloss over. At this point, you know more than the salesman. If you're at a high volume dealer and the salesman is not budging, tell him you want to talk to the sales manager and explain to him directly, the managers typically fold when they know you know everything. They want that sale to reach their volume incentives. Usually the salesman gets sidelined because he can;t make these decisions and just sits there with his mouth open as the manager agrees to a price he's never seen anyone come close to.

Don't forget about fees. Make sure you know what are legitimate state fees and what are pure dealer profit. My state has battery tire fees and registration, EVERYTHING else is pure profit. My state also happens to make it illegal to overcharge for registration, but check up on them anyway.

When a dealer says “I HAVE to charge this dealer fee” sometimes he's NOT actually lying. Some states if they charge it, they have to charge it to everyone. Make sure you get the full list of fees (on paper) BEFORE you start negotiating. If you want to be a real hard ass, just tell them they can charge the pure profit fees, but you will subtract it from whatever sales price you negotiate, otherwise just work it into what you ask for.

If you have a trade.

If the car is one the dealer will likely sell on the lot, don't take under KBB. If not, expect auction prices (Carmax quotes close to auction prices) My standard tactic is to go to carmax and get an appraisal, bring it with me. They might dare to offer you under that, if they do, walk. If you are ordering a car for later delivery and they wont lock in your trade value, get them to agree in writing that they will match a reappraisal at the time of delivery. If you take a camry to a dodge dealer, expect auction price.



How to share your negotiating achievements. A standardized way to brag.

Simple, tell us what you paid under invoice, BUT, in this way;

-Do not include rebates in your discount.
-Include how much in dealer fees or other profit fees you paid.
-If you had a trade, tell us what you were paid for it and the KBB on it as many are underpaid on their trade, and then they take that amount of the sales price of the car.

So we will use my last purchase as an example.


Invoice = $43,934
Sales price $41,785, +$199 dealer fee = $41,984

That's 4.4% under invoice. (wasn't the best deal but I was in a hurry)

I had a trade, KBB was 20k, I got 20k.

Lets say I only got 19k for my trade. My adjusted discount would be 2% under invoice. Because we would add 1k to the sales price. You don't have to do this, but at least include your trade information so others get the full picture.

This does not include the rebates I got or the free financing. As I said, rebates have nothing to do with how well you negotiated, everyone gets them, and it doesn't effect the dealers thought process one bit. But if you want to brag about the crazy 10k rebate you got for your big horn, feel free. Just include it separate from how much you paid under invoice.

Some final comments.

A lot of dealers will be very resistant to some of these things. Salespeople have no idea that CARP is a flat 2% rebate to the dealer, the sales manager might not even know! Tell them to look up and print out the program redemption instructions, that's where the info is. Be ready to buy and ready to leave. Salespeople don't like the idea of giving you what you want just to have you walk and bounce it off another dealer. Get *everything* in writing, clearly. Some dealers are shady as hell and ARE planning to cheat you. The one thing you didn't get in writing can ruin your entire deal. Use silence to your advantage. Saleman says something that's clearly BS, just stare at him with a arrogant look. Trying to push you into something? Just stare un-amused.

Too much for you?

Don't think you can negotiate a banging deal? Don't mind shipping a car? I know a dealership in Virginia that sells chrysler umbrella vehicles for 6% under invoice (used to be 7%) +$599, period. No stress, no haggle. I shipped a car (not the purchase I mention here) from there to me in Florida, cost me $500. That ate the 7% down to about 6%. Try getting that locally.
 
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Cmsharp

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Lots of good info. I have a neighbor that ran a couple dealerships once tell me to try to get the price as close to nada trade in value as you can, new or used. I bought a leftover 2016 bighorn cc 4x4 hemi for $31,800. It listed for $46k. Best price I could find online at the time.
 

BossHogg

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You are making it too complicated for most folks simply because all the details you point out are not always available or obvious to the buyer during the negotiation process. Many use online dealers like Dennis Dillon to figure a purchase price from MSRP plus whatever factory incentives they are qualified for.

When I negotiate a purchase I have zero interest in all the numbers between MSRP and purchase price, it is all there to obscure and confuse the purchaser.

I agree local taxes, registration fees, transfer fees and dealership fees plus other charges should not be included in the purchase price posted, these fees vary between dealerships and states.

Since factory incentives are regional, folks should include the area they live, the percentage from MSRP, plus all of the incentives they qualified for, and if they leased, the money factor of their lease.
 
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ColdCase

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Yeah, complicated for most, but some of us are just **** about money and appreciate the detail :) One probably needs to figure in how many hours spent finding all the numbers and shopping. Spend 40 hours at $50 an hour, thats $2000 eating into your deal, and time that one could be sitting in a boat fishing. Shop around, look for month or quarter end deals. Buying a new truck once a decade at most can also save some big bucks, if the goal here is to save cash.

But then it is fun looking at the details......

BTW, when I walked into dealers the last time I was shopping a year ago, the first offer was 2% below so called invoice (not including any rebates).
 
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Patrick_O

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First, a pet peeve. Stop telling people you "paid 10% under invoice" while including rebates in that and leaving out important details. This means nothing and is zero indication of how good of a deal you got. Someone who got "5% under invoice" also including rebates might have gotten a much better deal. (more on that later)


Lets define terms:

Negotiated sales price; This is the price of the vehicle you negotiated, before everything else. Before rebates, registration, dealer fees ETC.

MSRP; Retail price, duh.

Invoice; Price of the car and options on the “invoice” this is NOT dealer cost.

Holdback; Profit for the dealer under invoice price, typically it is 3% of MSRP. STILL not what the dealer actually pays.

Rebates; All Chrysler incentives.

CARP; Chrysler affiliate rewards program. Basically it's a code that lets you walk into any dealer and get 1% under invoice without negotiating and limits the dealer fees that can be charged. Note; negotiating does not stop here. Most salespeople will tell you there's no negotiating with CARP, that's 100% ********. CARP works by giving the dealership 2% of the invoice price, it's basically a coupon. So if you just stick with the 1% off, you are buying a car for 1% over invoice. That makes you a chump. No one with any skill at negotiating pays invoice let alone 1% over it. I've taken the entire 2% from dealers by bringing up I have a code after negotiating a sales price under invoice. Where can I get a CARP number? Either be an employee of a company that gets them, or join a charity called tread lightly at their higher levels, they give one out. It's $100 and you can save $800+ with it. No brainer.



Here is a standard invoice sheet, you and see the invoice price, holdback, and CARP (listed as FFP). If you didn't get one of these you can find invoice pricing various places, or on costcos website https://www.costcoauto.com/ and calculate holdback as 3% of MSRP

PShaKxu.png



What should I be aiming for a negotiated sales price?

Well, we already figured out from the above that a dealers base “cost” is a bit over 3% under invoice, this is before they get their sales volume rebates (which is how high volume dealers make their money). We also know that if you have a CARP number, the dealers gets another 2% of the invoice price back as cash. So you should start by aiming for 3% under, and later on drop the CARP bomb to reach 5% BEFORE any rebates. High volume dealers often choose to sell a vehicle for what they purchased it for, choosing to make all their profit of manufacture sales volume incentives.

The trick is to be knowledgeable, KNOW these numbers, KNOW high volume dealers will sell cars for no upfront profit. If the salesman says “I'm losing money” say no, go through the numbers, and watch his eyes gloss over. At this point, you know more than the salesman. If you're at a high volume dealer and the salesman is not budging, tell him you want to talk to the sales manager and explain to him directly, the managers typically fold when they know you know everything. They want that sale to reach their volume incentives. Usually the salesman gets sidelined because he can;t make these decisions and just sits there with his mouth open as the manager agrees to a price he's never seen anyone come close to.

Don't forget about fees. Make sure you know what are legitimate state fees and what are pure dealer profit. My state has battery tire fees and registration, EVERYTHING else is pure profit. My state also happens to make it illegal to overcharge for registration, but check up on them anyway.

When a dealer says “I HAVE to charge this dealer fee” sometimes he's NOT actually lying. Some states if they charge it, they have to charge it to everyone. Make sure you get the full list of fees (on paper) BEFORE you start negotiating. If you want to be a real hard ass, just tell them they can charge the pure profit fees, but you will subtract it from whatever sales price you negotiate, otherwise just work it into what you ask for.

If you have a trade.

If the car is one the dealer will likely sell on the lot, don't take under KBB. If not, expect auction prices (Carmax quotes close to auction prices) My standard tactic is to go to carmax and get an appraisal, bring it with me. They might dare to offer you under that, if they do, walk. If you are ordering a car for later delivery and they wont lock in your trade value, get them to agree in writing that they will match a reappraisal at the time of delivery. If you take a camry to a dodge dealer, expect auction price.



How to share your negotiating achievements. A standardized way to brag.

Simple, tell us what you paid under invoice, BUT, in this way;

-Do not include rebates in your discount.
-Include how much in dealer fees or other profit fees you paid.
-If you had a trade, tell us what you were paid for it and the KBB on it as many are underpaid on their trade, and then they take that amount of the sales price of the car.

So we will use my last purchase as an example.


Invoice = $43,934
Sales price $41,785, +$199 dealer fee = $41,984

That's 4.4% under invoice. (wasn't the best deal but I was in a hurry)

I had a trade, KBB was 20k, I got 20k.

Lets say I only got 19k for my trade. My adjusted discount would be 2% under invoice. Because we would add 1k to the sales price. You don't have to do this, but at least include your trade information so others get the full picture.

This does not include the rebates I got or the free financing. As I said, rebates have nothing to do with how well you negotiated, everyone gets them, and it doesn't effect the dealers thought process one bit. But if you want to brag about the crazy 10k rebate you got for your big horn, feel free. Just include it separate from how much you paid under invoice.

Some final comments.

A lot of dealers will be very resistant to some of these things. Salespeople have no idea that CARP is a flat 2% rebate to the dealer, the sales manager might not even know! Tell them to look up and print out the program redemption instructions, that's where the info is. Be ready to buy and ready to leave. Salespeople don't like the idea of giving you what you want just to have you walk and bounce it off another dealer. Get *everything* in writing, clearly. Some dealers are shady as hell and ARE planning to cheat you. The one thing you didn't get in writing can ruin your entire deal. Use silence to your advantage. Saleman says something that's clearly BS, just stare at him with a arrogant look. Trying to push you into something? Just stare un-amused.

Too much for you?

Don't think you can negotiate a banging deal? Don't mind shipping a car? I know a dealership in Virginia that sells chrysler umbrella vehicles for 6% under invoice (used to be 7%) +$599, period. No stress, no haggle. I shipped a car (not the purchase I mention here) from there to me in Florida, cost me $500. That ate the 7% down to about 6%. Try getting that locally.



You must be my twin. Edmunds also has helpful numbers for negotiation. The dealers always think it is weird when I walk in with my laptop and have my spreadsheet ready.


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Totesmygoats

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You are making it too complicated for most folks simply because all the details you point out are not always available or obvious to the buyer during the negotiation process.

I agree it's somewhat complicated. And a lot of this isn't obvious, but now it should be. Everything I posted is available to anyone. Except that you might not have a dealer willing to sell for at or close to their upfront cost.

Many use online dealers like Dennis Dillon to figure a purchase price from MSRP plus whatever factory incentives they are qualified for.

When I negotiate a purchase I have zero interest in all the numbers between MSRP and purchase price, it is all there to obscure and confuse the purchaser.

See, now, you aren't using my terms. You have zero interest in what numbers? fees? or what the invoice and hold back is? Because you should be interested in all of that. You negotiate 5% under invoice price and then get slammed with a $999 dealer fee, $150 document processing fee, $100 electronic registration fee, 75$ regional advertising fee ETC ETC, well...

As for "purchase price". Are you talking about negotiated sales price, or what you end up buying the car for with rebates and stuff.

I have seen tons of people post what great deals they got, here's this huge number off MSRP, but when you actually look at what they paid, they overpaid. That model just happened to have huge rebates that month (again, think big horns) and they paid way over invoice and could have gotten it for a lot less.

and if they leased, the money factor of their lease.

That's a whole nother thread. I could write something 10x as long on getting a lease. I can calculate them out on paper, last one, so many dealers were just straight up lying during negotiations and refused to give a term sheet during :flipthebird:. When I called them out they got pissed. For instance, some dealers will use the company that gives huge rebates, which offloads sales tax at lease signing, and makes the payments lower, when in the long run you actually pay more. ETC

Yeah, complicated for most, but some of us are just **** about money and appreciate the detail :) One probably needs to figure in how many hours spent finding all the numbers and shopping. Spend 40 hours at $50 an hour, thats $2000 eating into your deal, and time that one could be sitting in a boat fishing. Shop around, look for month or quarter end deals. Buying a new truck once a decade at most can also save some big bucks, if the goal here is to save cash.

But then it is fun looking at the details......

That's true, unless you have some nice fellow who already has all that info and gives it to you :favorites13:




BTW, when I walked into dealers the last time I was shopping a year ago, the first offer was 2% below so called invoice (not including any rebates).

They offered that to you or vise versa? That's pretty nice if that was their first offer.

But, don't forget that statement means nothing without dealers fees fees. A 599 dealer fee is probably 1.5% of a lot of peoples vehicles. I've seen them as high as 999, which is ~2.5%
 

hankRam2015

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First, a pet peeve. Stop telling people you "paid 10% under invoice" while including rebates in that and leaving out important details. This means nothing and is zero indication of how good of a deal you got. Someone who got "5% under invoice" also including rebates might have gotten a much better deal. (more on that later)


Lets define terms:

Negotiated sales price; This is the price of the vehicle you negotiated, before everything else. Before rebates, registration, dealer fees ETC.

MSRP; Retail price, duh.

Invoice; Price of the car and options on the “invoice” this is NOT dealer cost.

Holdback; Profit for the dealer under invoice price, typically it is 3% of MSRP. STILL not what the dealer actually pays.

Rebates; All Chrysler incentives.

CARP; Chrysler affiliate rewards program. Basically it's a code that lets you walk into any dealer and get 1% under invoice without negotiating and limits the dealer fees that can be charged. Note; negotiating does not stop here. Most salespeople will tell you there's no negotiating with CARP, that's 100% ********. CARP works by giving the dealership 2% of the invoice price, it's basically a coupon. So if you just stick with the 1% off, you are buying a car for 1% over invoice. That makes you a chump. No one with any skill at negotiating pays invoice let alone 1% over it. I've taken the entire 2% from dealers by bringing up I have a code after negotiating a sales price under invoice. Where can I get a CARP number? Either be an employee of a company that gets them, or join a charity called tread lightly at their higher levels, they give one out. It's $100 and you can save $800+ with it. No brainer.



Here is a standard invoice sheet, you and see the invoice price, holdback, and CARP (listed as FFP). If you didn't get one of these you can find invoice pricing various places, or on costcos website https://www.costcoauto.com/ and calculate holdback as 3% of MSRP

PShaKxu.png



What should I be aiming for a negotiated sales price?

Well, we already figured out from the above that a dealers base “cost” is a bit over 3% under invoice, this is before they get their sales volume rebates (which is how high volume dealers make their money). We also know that if you have a CARP number, the dealers gets another 2% of the invoice price back as cash. So you should start by aiming for 3% under, and later on drop the CARP bomb to reach 5% BEFORE any rebates. High volume dealers often choose to sell a vehicle for what they purchased it for, choosing to make all their profit of manufacture sales volume incentives.

The trick is to be knowledgeable, KNOW these numbers, KNOW high volume dealers will sell cars for no upfront profit. If the salesman says “I'm losing money” say no, go through the numbers, and watch his eyes gloss over. At this point, you know more than the salesman. If you're at a high volume dealer and the salesman is not budging, tell him you want to talk to the sales manager and explain to him directly, the managers typically fold when they know you know everything. They want that sale to reach their volume incentives. Usually the salesman gets sidelined because he can;t make these decisions and just sits there with his mouth open as the manager agrees to a price he's never seen anyone come close to.

Don't forget about fees. Make sure you know what are legitimate state fees and what are pure dealer profit. My state has battery tire fees and registration, EVERYTHING else is pure profit. My state also happens to make it illegal to overcharge for registration, but check up on them anyway.

When a dealer says “I HAVE to charge this dealer fee” sometimes he's NOT actually lying. Some states if they charge it, they have to charge it to everyone. Make sure you get the full list of fees (on paper) BEFORE you start negotiating. If you want to be a real hard ass, just tell them they can charge the pure profit fees, but you will subtract it from whatever sales price you negotiate, otherwise just work it into what you ask for.

If you have a trade.

If the car is one the dealer will likely sell on the lot, don't take under KBB. If not, expect auction prices (Carmax quotes close to auction prices) My standard tactic is to go to carmax and get an appraisal, bring it with me. They might dare to offer you under that, if they do, walk. If you are ordering a car for later delivery and they wont lock in your trade value, get them to agree in writing that they will match a reappraisal at the time of delivery. If you take a camry to a dodge dealer, expect auction price.



How to share your negotiating achievements. A standardized way to brag.

Simple, tell us what you paid under invoice, BUT, in this way;

-Do not include rebates in your discount.
-Include how much in dealer fees or other profit fees you paid.
-If you had a trade, tell us what you were paid for it and the KBB on it as many are underpaid on their trade, and then they take that amount of the sales price of the car.

So we will use my last purchase as an example.


Invoice = $43,934
Sales price $41,785, +$199 dealer fee = $41,984

That's 4.4% under invoice. (wasn't the best deal but I was in a hurry)

I had a trade, KBB was 20k, I got 20k.

Lets say I only got 19k for my trade. My adjusted discount would be 2% under invoice. Because we would add 1k to the sales price. You don't have to do this, but at least include your trade information so others get the full picture.

This does not include the rebates I got or the free financing. As I said, rebates have nothing to do with how well you negotiated, everyone gets them, and it doesn't effect the dealers thought process one bit. But if you want to brag about the crazy 10k rebate you got for your big horn, feel free. Just include it separate from how much you paid under invoice.

Some final comments.

A lot of dealers will be very resistant to some of these things. Salespeople have no idea that CARP is a flat 2% rebate to the dealer, the sales manager might not even know! Tell them to look up and print out the program redemption instructions, that's where the info is. Be ready to buy and ready to leave. Salespeople don't like the idea of giving you what you want just to have you walk and bounce it off another dealer. Get *everything* in writing, clearly. Some dealers are shady as hell and ARE planning to cheat you. The one thing you didn't get in writing can ruin your entire deal. Use silence to your advantage. Saleman says something that's clearly BS, just stare at him with a arrogant look. Trying to push you into something? Just stare un-amused.

Too much for you?

Don't think you can negotiate a banging deal? Don't mind shipping a car? I know a dealership in Virginia that sells chrysler umbrella vehicles for 6% under invoice (used to be 7%) +$599, period. No stress, no haggle. I shipped a car (not the purchase I mention here) from there to me in Florida, cost me $500. That ate the 7% down to about 6%. Try getting that locally.



Great information sir. Thanks for taking time to post.


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BossHogg

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See, now, you aren't using my terms. You have zero interest in what numbers? fees? or what the invoice and hold back is? Because you should be interested in all of that. You negotiate 5% under invoice price and then get slammed with a $999 dealer fee, $150 document processing fee, $100 electronic registration fee, 75$ regional advertising fee ETC ETC, well...

As for "purchase price". Are you talking about negotiated sales price, or what you end up buying the car for with rebates and stuff.

I should have been more clear. I don't care about the dealer fees, I simply offer or negotiate a purchase price (knowing license, title, and sales tax will be the only additions) and tell the dealer to backfill their line item fees, these are the numbers I don't care about.

My example, when I negotiated the purchase price of my 2015 Longhorn I knew what I could buy it for from Dillon. I got the factory incentive list from Dillon and knew what I qualified for. With this information, I was able to have a local dealer who said they would compete for my business give me the price I wanted, and I got it plus an additional $500 that I missed but the dealer didn't.

Invoice price, employee price, hold back, etc, made no difference to me. Only MSRP and the list of factory incentives. I knew what Dillon would sell the vehicle for and I knew Dillon's prices are not negotiable so the best I could hope for is a price match. And I did it without spending an afternoon sitting across from a salesperson.
 

ColdCase

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There seems to be more and more large dealers willing to price match Dillan now days.
 
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Totesmygoats

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Invoice price, employee price, hold back, etc, made no difference to me. Only MSRP and the list of factory incentives. I knew what Dillon would sell the vehicle for and I knew Dillon's prices are not negotiable so the best I could hope for is a price match.

I mean I have no idea what dillons is, but basically you're saying all you know is you got as good a deal as some other dealership... That's not saying much.

47,740 according to Costco


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K, so clearly the price you mentioned earlier was after rebates, I have no idea what restates that includes. You have to give all the information.
 

Mineralram

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my last 3 trucks have been purchased under the friends and family program which is dealer cost minus any rebates. Its the best way to go know adays plus its a bonus when you know the dealership owner

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MADDOG

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Dillon = Dennis Dillon, Inc. based out of Idaho. They offer prices based on their factory direct pricing program with several manufacturers.

Their prices are very aggressive and normally can't be matched by local dealers who don't move the volume that Dillon does.
 

ColdCase

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my last 3 trucks have been purchased under the friends and family program which is dealer cost minus any rebates. Its the best way to go know adays plus its a bonus when you know the dealership owner

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I used Friends and Family on several cars, loved the no haggle, and the deal was great unless the dealer was giving a car away. When shopping for the 2016 RAM, however, I found dealers were offering better deals just walking off the street, did not need to be friends. I was able to save a ton of $$ by just shopping around a bit. But if you don't want to haggle or live in an area with few and far between dealers, the Friends and Family deal is decent.
 

AFMoulton

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I used Friends and Family on several cars, loved the no haggle, and the deal was great unless the dealer was giving a car away. When shopping for the 2016 RAM, however, I found dealers were offering better deals just walking off the street, did not need to be friends. I was able to save a ton of $$ by just shopping around a bit. But if you don't want to haggle or live in an area with few and far between dealers, the Friends and Family deal is decent.



How does one get said friends and family deal?


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Mineralram

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5.7 Hemi
not sure how friends and family work between USA and Canada. When i traded my 2015 ram crew sport hemi which had 65,000 on it i got $29,800 plus tax fur my trade. This time around i bought a 2017 laramie crew hemi under friends and family as the incentives were amazing $8500.00 cashback plus $1500.00 loyalty and free mopar step bars under the mobility program. In my opinion theres nothing better than getting 10,000 off dealer cost and dealer has to prove there cost hy showing the invoice which i also had to signoff on. i usually trade my trucks ever 2-1/2 years due to high trade value and the fact i own my own business.

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BossHogg

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2014
Posts
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Location
Oakland Township, Michigan
Ram Year
2015
Engine
6.7L Cummins
I mean I have no idea what dillons is, but basically you're saying all you know is you got as good a deal as some other dealership... That's not saying much.

Wow, that was a little mean spirited. You make a thread opening about purchasing a vehicle for the lowest pricing and you never bothered to research how to buy a RAM?

Dennis Dillon sells their inventory below employee pricing. Using their pricing you can make a deal in minutes instead of hours of pouring through a sea of numbers like you suggested. To each there own but I have other things to do besides pouring through hold back numbers, invoice pricing, and fees with a salesperson which in the end, means nothing.

The typical discount from MSRP at Dillon is just over 19% from MSRP plus tax, registration, licensing, and $250 Dillon charges for the documentation fee.

My last RAM purchase, the truck MSRPed for $70,000.00 even, the invoice was $63,096, hold back $2,450, Employee pricing was $60,016, friends and family $62,540. My purchase price was $56,551 (which included $1,500 in factory incentives) plus tax, license, and title. Made the deal in less than an hour and nine weeks later picked the truck up.

So, still want to hold that line, I didn't say much?
 
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