Teach Me "The Art Of The Deal".......

Art of the deal is buy it from erica at koons in Virginia, they give 7% off invoice price all day long, no negotiating needed.

Another thing is join tread-lightly and get an affiliate code, you can walk into any dealer and get 1% under invoice no questions asked and the fees are specifically limited.

For the affiliate discount, keep in mind, it is treated as simply a rebate for the dealer. They don't HAVE to sell you the truck for only 1% under invoice. And in fact the way it works is they get cash back equal to 2% under invoice, so if you are able to negotiate 3% under invoice (which you should be able to) you can stack the affiliate on top of that for 5% under invoice. All of this is before rebates. Dealers start to get annoyed when you do this, but they get the same bottom line out of it, so prove to them you know what you're talking about and there's no reason they wont.

Subscribed! Good info here!

I went back and forth with several dealers. I was also looking at the GMC Sierra. The two GMC dealers were pretty unwilling to bargain. I went to Stafford Dodge in Winchester, Marlow in Front Royal and Dulles in Leesburg. I wanted to buy from Stafford in Winchester, but they just could not get a Ram in any other color except grey it seemed like. I wanted red, premium stereo, heated seats, and a few other things. I found one that the dealer in Leesburg had. Sticker was 51ish. I went back in fourth and hoped that Stafford could produce something but in the end they could not. Plus in was tired of going back and fourth between the dealers. In the end I get everything I wanted plus the lifetime warrenty for about 37,500 for a Big Horn. Yes, there were rebates but in the end I was 13,500 below the sticker price and am happy with my purchase. Only issue i see is Stafford the closest dealer giving me a hard time if warrenty work pops up because I didn't buy from them. As a side note I had a 2013 Ram Express that I traded in for a smaller truck. I always regretted that decision. Just saying.

Trooper2 said:

I went back and forth with several dealers. I was also looking at the GMC Sierra. The two GMC dealers were pretty unwilling to bargain. I went to Stafford Dodge in Winchester, Marlow in Front Royal and Dulles in Leesburg. I wanted to buy from Stafford in Winchester, but they just could not get a Ram in any other color except grey it seemed like. I wanted red, premium stereo, heated seats, and a few other things. I found one that the dealer in Leesburg had. Sticker was 51ish. I went back in fourth and hoped that Stafford could produce something but in the end they could not. Plus in was tired of going back and fourth between the dealers. In the end I get everything I wanted plus the lifetime warrenty for about 37,500 for a Big Horn. Yes, there were rebates but in the end I was 13,500 below the sticker price and am happy with my purchase. Only issue i see is Stafford the closest dealer giving me a hard time if warrenty work pops up because I didn't buy from them. As a side note I had a 2013 Ram Express that I traded in for a smaller truck. I always regretted that decision. Just saying.

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They can't deny warranty work just because you bought elsewhere.

MSRP on my truck was 43k and some change. I got 32.5k out the door.
2017 Lonestar silver

I recently bought a 2017 Ram 1500 4x4 Longhorn edition with the 5.7 3.92 8 speed.
Original MSRP was $54,505. With all the discounts I was able to get it at slightly over $41,000 before ttl.

TerraNewf said:

Actually I got a$5000.00 discount and $32000.00 for my trade.

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Well, gotta work harder next time. My SLT was 57k at the dealer. I got them down to 37k, including the sales at the time.

Thats BEFORE my trade in.

I got 20k off a 57k truck, you got 5k off a 70k truck....

I worked my 2016 lone star ecodiesel 4x4 down to 40,500 our the door, just worked with them a bit and then ended up getting 5,500 for my trade that I would’ve been lucky to sell for close to that on Craigslist myself. Just take your time shop around and look at the really big dealers. Some will even pay for your flight and pick you up if your traveling to them


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The discounts you guys are getting is insane! So I'm assuming purchasing new is the better option than purchasing used?

htxdc said:

The discounts you guys are getting is insane! So I'm assuming purchasing new is the better option than purchasing used?

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Yep. Especially if you're financing, since used rates are typically 5% or higher.

Sticker price for mine was $46,000 walked out the door just at $30,000 with 2% in the finance rates. They want to sell these trucks, it’s middle end year too so that helps.


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Sticker for my 2017 Big Horn was $43640. I got the spray in bedliner and chrome side bars added on and walked out paying $36k including TTL. No trade in, financed for the additional discount and then paid it off in one payment. First time buying a brand new vehicle so I probably could have done a little better but I was satisfied.

Hello Guys,

My method.

Go to ram or car Mfg website build the vehicle you want to buy, then print summary.

Go to truer.com and enter the info for your build. This gives you price of what the same car sells for in your area. If you have true car dealer near by and like the price buy from them no haggling and your done.

If you don't like true care price, print the best price to take with you to the dealer.

So armed with ram summary price and the true car price to use as leverage, but don NOT show car dealer any information at this point.

Find car on the lot that closest matches what you built if you need to drive it home. Take it for test drive.

once back at dealer tell them your interested in the vehicle and ask to speak direct to sales manager because you don't play game of running back and forth to sales manager to haggle price. Your time is worth money!

Once you meet sales Mgr tell him to pull dealer invoice,some may be reluctant but insist.

Start negotiations from dealer invoice not window sticker. make sure you get all rebates and incentives your entitled to.

If they won't get close to the price of true car or better and they say they can't get you the price then show them your leverage.

I normally can get a car with the dealer only making the factory hold back money which is 200 -500 depending on model.

The car dealers in my area know me now and I don't have to haggle anymore,they know they will not make much if any profit from my deal but they more than make up by other people paying full window sticker plus .

I hope his helps,good luck!


Deals can be made wholesale to wholesale or retail to retail.

I don't claim to be the best negotiator, but what I do is completely ignore all the TTL and other fees, payment, down, and trade. If I have a trade then I'll start low and tell them I want OTD price to be my trade and a certain dollar amount. I don't care how they figure it on the sales form, but that's what it needs to be.

I think it's hard to know exactly what the absolute bottom should be, but there are plenty of research tools online to help figure it out. Know fair trade value and be patient and willing to walk out as others have said. I don't really have a problem with the dealership making money, just that they don't need to make it all from me.

I have 800+ fico score and arrange my own financing. And yes, the finance/final person you see is a snake. They will push their high profit warranties and service contracts. This Tradesman I bought had an agreed on OTD price, but the finance guy said that doesn't include title and license fees, so I had to straighten him out on that with the salesman coming in to tell him the deal. Then he acted like they were just giving those fees away! I'm like, no, you made plenty of money or the sales manager wouldn't have said yes to it.

It can be an easy deal if you do the research and cut the BS out by talking only in terms of the OTD price, trade or not. You need to be realistic, but they start high, so what's wrong with starting really low?

Dupe

Dupe

Always talk to the fleet manager. They want to move volume and are slightly less concerned about maximizing profit on each car. Wait until the end of the month, quarter, year. Locate a vehicle you want, Call dealerships that have it and if you find a good fleet manager they will bottom line it quickly. Make sure you do you homework on all the incentives. Negotiate everything on the phone, be willing to walk away and once you have an agreement go down and test drive the truck before you buy it.
My truck was 72k msrp, got it for 58k. 2018 bought at the end of last month. Probably could do a bit better this month or end of the year.

Remember at the end of the month, quarter, year they are eyeing their bonuses for hitting a certain number. Don't bother talking to them in the first 3 weeks of any month.



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When I was shopping for my '14, I could not get any dealer (visited 3) to move anywhere on the truck price other than what it came down after my Chrysler affiliate number and the regularly offered incentives.

What they really varied on was what I got for my trade.

What does you OTD price look like compared to True car?

I was thousands less than truecar. True car is good for finding the dealers that will negotiate.

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My few tips:

- They won't give you the best price until you commit and tell them you're willing to sign if they get to the price you want (verbal commitment, you can still walk)
- If negotiating based on bi-weekly/monthly payments, Give them a number, and negotiate on a higher trim level. This works for two reasons:
1. Typically dealerships always get to within 10-20$ of your number and say its the lowest they can go, this is when you drop a trim level (to the one you want) and all of a sudden it either at or under the payments you want
2. You end up with the higher trim level because you hold out long enough and get a good price

- Bring your own pen, sit there and "really think" about the prce and just keep saying "I dont know, I don't think I can do that, I really need to be at $***"


I did this and got my $65k sticker priced Ram Sport for $43 all in with tax and interest on my payments