Wiring my LED bar to my brights

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AKR

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I know there are some other threads on this, but I have yet to find a thread with clear instructions for an idiot such as myself. I've got an Auxbeam 42" 240W LED bar and I'd like to have it come on with my brights. I don't need it to come on without the brights, but it would be nice if the switch would turn them off so the brights can come on without the LED bar. Thanks in advance for any help.

Here's the wire harness:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OHBV4GW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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AustinB

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Ohh fun one.

My first guess would be to tap into the high beams with #7 instead of it going to the battery.

@sbarron would be a good one for this..he has 432 lights in his truck with 23 different combinations of switches.
 

JGBimle

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I've never actually done it but have plans to do it on some different lights. I would think you could use a three position switch. I know Rigid makes a wiring harnes for their backup lights for the purpose of the lights being off at all times when the switch is in the middle, on at all times when the switch is up, and come on with reverse lights when the switch is in the down position. Same concept obviously you'd run the one to the high beams of course. You can buy that wiring harness from their website but I'm sure there's also a schematic out there for this exact wiring setup to do it yourself and save some money.
 

Bobbo

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If I'm reading that right, looks like 7 and 8 are the high current connection for the relay, while 3 and 4 are the low current (switching) connection. You would still attach 7 to positive on the battery, 8 to ground (or negative battery post). You would have 4 tap into the high beam.

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AKR

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If I'm reading that right, looks like 7 and 8 are the high current connection for the relay, while 3 and 4 are the low current (switching) connection. You would still attach 7 to positive on the battery, 8 to ground (or negative battery post). You would have 4 tap into the high beam.

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That's what I was thinking. I've got some Hellas that are tied into my high beams right now. It looks like they're connected near the left high beam. I'm assuming I can just take the wire from the Hella out (I'm getting rid of them) and put #4 in it's place on the brights?
 

txcobowhunter

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I tapped my high beam on the drivers side, and ran it to the control side of a new relay. I then ran the switch leg for my light bar relay through the new relay controlled by the high beam. I have to activate the switch for the light bar, and have the high beams turned on for my light bat to shine. Works great.
 

HemiPower36

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I think he needs someone to really break it down. Moron style. With a step by step guide and photos probably wouldn't hurt.



Ok ok ok you caught me! I am also curious how to do this and the above posts left me scratching my head.
 

AustinB

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I think he needs someone to really break it down. Moron style. With a step by step guide and photos probably wouldn't hurt.



Ok ok ok you caught me! I am also curious how to do this and the above posts left me scratching my head.
I feel like hes saying the same exact thing as me, just more confusing.

In theory, it should work either way. You can tap into the high beams with the switch (high beams have to be on to get power to the switch to open/close the relay)

Or you can tap into the high beams with the power to the relay (#7) (at this point, the switch always has power to open/close the relay...but the relay wont have power to send unless the high beams are on)

Just my understanding of it..

If this is true, then the next question is what would be more convenient? Tapping into the high beams with the #7, since its supposed to go to the + battery in the engine bay anyways...

Or tap in with the switch wire, run it into the cab, then back out to the relay..
 

Bobbo

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I'll try to break it down a bit more.
You can imagine it as this diagram.

"85" on the relay would be 8 on your harness
"30" on the relay would be 7 on your harness
The "supply" wire from the switch is 4 on your harness
The "earth brown" wire from the switch is 3 on your harness
"87" on the relay is 9 on your harness
011f3b8f64b69193c7e29e0292b80b21.gif

Basically the way a relay works is having 2 different circuits running through it. There is a lower amperage "control" circuit and a higher amperage "power" circuit. That way you don't have the high current running through the actual on-off switch. So in order the for relay to give power to the lights, it needs to be turned on by having power applied to the low amperage(control) line. If you have the power from the high beam light feeding the switch (#4 wire on the harness), the only way the auxiliary lights will turn on its when the high beams are turned on and the switch is turned on.

Hopefully that wasn't too confusing...
So you are going to connect;
#7 wire directly to the + battery terminal.
#8 can go either to a ground or to the - battery terminal.
#4 will connect to your high beam light (not sure what color wire that will be)
#3 will connect to a ground
#9 will connect to you new lights

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sbarron

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I think he needs someone to really break it down. Moron style. With a step by step guide and photos probably wouldn't hurt.



Ok ok ok you caught me! I am also curious how to do this and the above posts left me scratching my head.

Now, now... it's only 8 lights and two switches.. in front.

OP - The easiest way to do this is to tap into your OEM high beam circuit behind the driver side headlight. run that wire to the trigger pole (control) as mentioned above. wire the remaining poles on the relay as normal. Here's my build thread with pictures and a wiring diagram. If you have any questions or need it further broken down et me know. YOu'll like having the lights wired this way.

http://www.ramforum.com/f41/led_light_bar_pods_install_behind_grill_bumper-63186/
 
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AKR

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Thanks, everyone, for the replies! I got it all hooked up! My dad talked to someone earlier today and then he bought a 3 way switch. Somehow, when he had the harness in his possession, wires 3 and 4 magically disappeared and he doesn't remember them ever being there, even though I saw them yesterday. :confused:

But he had some extra wire and we made it work. Now, I can use the 3 way and have it come on with the brights, on it's own, or not at all. I'll try to put some pictures up or maybe even a video in a few days and show exactly what we did.
 

Ronan

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Shakin the bush , boss....
 

DiabeticKripple

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I just tapped my power off the high beams on the drivers side, so when I pull the stick back, just my brights come on, but when I push it forward, my brights and light bar come on.

I figured if I was going to be using my high beams, I could use the light bar as well
 

txcobowhunter

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I just tapped my power off the high beams on the drivers side, so when I pull the stick back, just my brights come on, but when I push it forward, my brights and light bar come on.

I figured if I was going to be using my high beams, I could use the light bar as well

That works, but in MO, it's a very good way to get a ticket. And the judge in my county, counts every bulb in the light bar as an extra light. If you have a 50" dual row bar it's gonna be very expensive. The way I have mine set up with being able to use the high beams without the bar, I can turn it on when I'm in an off road condition.
 
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