First install of Illicit Fab no cut brackets

Here goes with what I found out so far with the brackets from Illicit fabrication. All totaled, the install after drilling 8, 5/8 inch holes in the factory brackets the install time was about 3 hours. Just a quick tip,the drill bit is about 20 bucks at Home Depot. Now keep in mind I have a friend that has a drive on lift. If you doing this on your back in the driveway or in the garage it might be a little more time and cussing involved. The hardest part out of all of this so far that I've seen is getting the holes drilled, some spots are tight. I have not had time to get up underneath it yet, after it's settled I'll get some measurements to make sure it's squared properly, I hope to do that this weekend. As far as the quality goes the quality pretty doggone good. All the hardware is grade 8. One thing I did realize before installing it is that the Crush spacers need to be 2 and 11/16 inches wide. Mine were a little bit over that and had to have them milled down. My son is a stainless steel fabricator so he
milled them for me. Pretty straightforward installation just take your time. Once I give the truck a little time to settle, I'll give you a better report after that.
One other thing I did measure is the ground clearance at the bottom end of the bracket. 5 1/2 inches of ground clearance between the bottom of the bracket and the street. Any other questions I may have not addressed go ahead and ask me.

Looks good. Have you driven w/ them yet?

only got about 20 miles on it today. Big test is next weekend 400 mile run back and forth across florida. So far so good.

Hope their is a write up on the install by someone or post the instructions that are provided for the no cut kit. My only fear now is drilling into my factory components and it not being squared

only drilling is on the rearend factory arm mounts. The instructions included are dead on for the install. One hole per bracket right up nest to the rearend tube. I can scan my instructions id needed.

So, no cutting at all with these?

No cutting from what I understand. Drilling and possibly have to mill. I have no idea what milling means

Is an alignment going to be recommended? I know it's rear components but since things are corrected now will I need to

no cutting of any type, need to drill (8) 5/8" holes. Alignment possible, unsure at this time. I have not had time to do any measurements yet. Milling is removing metal from a part and to keep it square still. The crush tube ends need to be flat on the ends to correctly meet the other surface flat.

lets see some side profile pics!

of me or the brackets,LOL. I'll get some tomorrow, have to rotate the tires after work .

Don't want to seem dumb, but what do these brackets do?

bgray said:

lets see some side profile pics!

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And Mr gray, what's with you getting rid of your instagram? I enjoyed following your truck and the s10. Also, you sold the 22's yet?

http://www.ramforum.com/f39/light_end_tunnel-94828/ read the first post, everything is there

razor1 said:

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Is that an optical Illusion or is the bottom of that bracket wallered out a bit on both sides of the lower control arm mount, i.e. not parallel?

It is wider at the bottom due to the brackets mounting on the outside of the factory control arm bracket. So you have to use those washers to fill in the gap. Just my observation...

thx quicksilver337, you are correct

Hmmm. That gauge steel looks a bit on the thin side. Upper would be fine, but I can picture tweaking that lower when making 600ft/bs and drag slicks.
Time will tell.

SKWURLZ , I'm this application will not do for what your after. I think about 99% of us have them as daily drivers, so if it fixes the snapping, popping and general overall felling of driving a 1974 Chevette dressed in an R/T jacket we'll be overjoyed.

Quicksilver337 said:

It is wider at the bottom due to the brackets mounting on the outside of the factory control arm bracket. So you have to use those washers to fill in the gap. Just my observation...

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razor1 said:

thx quicksilver337, you are correct

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thank you, are the plates parallel to each other? in your pic they look slightly wider at the bottom

SKWURLZ said:

Hmmm. That gauge steel looks a bit on the thin side. Upper would be fine, but I can picture tweaking that lower when making 600ft/bs and drag slicks.
Time will tell.

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looks like on the "no cut" brackets there are 2 separate assemblies to complete a side or 4 plates total per side(correct me if I'm wrong).............I bet getting thicker stock to plasma or waterjet wouldn't be all that difficult to do