Inez 4/6 review

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Quicksilver337

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When you install the plates that have notches that help line then up but you are the one who drills the 2 bolt holes in the back, not to mention that there is a little more wiggle room for the bars on the new brackets. Its only about 3/32 out which is with in acceptable range for most alignment shops but my does setup for race cars so he's a perfectionist. Besides i was gonna get cutterups bars no matter what so I don't mind. He'll if it was a chevy that would be stock lol so many of them drive down the road crab walking.

My rear alignment was spot on... weird

didn't read if you installed a relocation bracket along with an adjustable panhard bar?

I placed washers between the relocation brackets and the control arms to prevent movement side to side. Also when you tighten the bolts on the control arms the truck has to be sitting at normal ride height(tires on level surface)
 
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Twistedshadows

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Yes I did the brackets for the control arms and panhard need that came with the kit, I haven't installed any adjustable bars yet but I plan on getting a set from cutter up. No I didn't put washers yes I tightened on ground. But as I said I could have messed up the holes or maybe mine was out before I did the kit. Ether way I don't think its to big a deal and my alignment guy was pretty sure if I just loosened everything tie the axle to a tree pull it and retigthen I could get it right. Well see if any one else chimes in but maybe my trucks the freak lol. I did have to cut my front passenger tie rod to get the front aligned.
 

Quicksilver337

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Yes I did the brackets for the control arms and panhard need that came with the kit, I haven't installed any adjustable bars yet but I plan on getting a set from cutter up. No I didn't put washers yes I tightened on ground. But as I said I could have messed up the holes or maybe mine was out before I did the kit. Ether way I don't think its to big a deal and my alignment guy was pretty sure if I just loosened everything tie the axle to a tree pull it and retigthen I could get it right. Well see if any one else chimes in but maybe my trucks the freak lol. I did have to cut my front passenger tie rod to get the front aligned.

Solution to your problem is an adjustable panhard bar, don't need to change the control arms for adjustable ones. Factory upper and lower control arms work just fine.

ear-Panhard-Bar-2009-2012-Dodge-Ram-1500-4x2-4x4-1.jpg
15542d1376366828-mcgaughys_2_4_44050_installed_pics-bars%5B1%5D.jpg
 
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Twistedshadows

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That was recommended to me also. Was told it would change the toe a little. But I'm not a fan of the factory bushings and when I get around to throwing nitrous on the truck I want to be able to tweak the rear for launchs. Glad to know that what I was told about the panhard was is true tho, I didn't think it would change toe (its actually called thrust on my alignment sheet)
 

ramittome

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Yep, as Quicksilver posted, that's all that's needed to push your axle back over to the proper location. The adjustable rear control arms will help with any front to back movement needed as well. I didn't have to install the bracket as my truck has the 2 piece drive shaft. Not sure if I'm lucky for that or not. Lol! I'd rather the 1 piece.
 
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Twistedshadows

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The one price aluminum one in my rt is a nice piece but it does get noisy at 118 (haven't been over 120 yet) so if the two piece holds together better id rather have that lol.
 

ramittome

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Trade ya. Lol! Idk, just seems like more stuff to go wrong on a 2 piece.
 
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Twistedshadows

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You have to remember that the longer the drive shaft the lower the critical speed (the rpm at which it will vibrate apart no matter the balance or strength) which is why on semi trucks , pickup trucks, and longer sedans they use two peice.

I drive a kw (semi) with a tuned up 600 hp cat pushing 2000 foot pounds of torque and I have never broken a drive shaft but I have knocked the teeth off the gears on 4 diffs

So by having two shorter drive shafts you can have a much much higher rpm with less vibrations. The only draw backs are more weight, the necessity to make sure alignment is perfect, and the weak carrier bearing bushing used on most factory setups. But if you went with solid motor and Tranny mounts and a very strong and stiff carrier bearing bushing then you would have less u joint deflection, could run a ideal u joint angle with shorter shafts for a higher critical speed. Should be just as strong if not stronger then a one piece setup but it is definitely more complex which means a little more work to get right. Even with out changing motor or Tranny mounts just getting a better bushing for the carrier should make a 2 piece just as good as a one piece and you should be able to go a faster speed with less vibration then a longer one piece will have.
 
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Twistedshadows

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So anyways to cap off my last post. You should go with the driveshaft setup that's right for your applications be it steel aluminum carbon fiber one piece or two piece. The strength of the setup is gonna depend of the quality and balance of the shafts with proper u joint angles.
What I plan on doing once I get the nitrous on the truck is setting all my u joint angles and getting the shaft balanced, and while I have the shaft at the drive shaft shop have them check for twist and high speed deflection to see if I should go with a custom piece.
 

DARKNHT

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I have the same kit. I installed the AirLift Durango bags in rear to help out with bottoming out. Still using Pro Comp shocks that came with kit. Looking for better shocks in rear. Those Monroe shocks that you mentioned to tall for the 4/6 drop. They work great for the 2/4 drop. Waiting on reply from the manufacturer for the specs on doetsch lowering shocks. The kit handles great, just looking for a better feel in the rear end of truck.

Can you give me the ProComp rear shock number the kit comes with? I have new Rancho 7000MTs I wanna try to match specs up to the ProComp specs
 

Quicksilver337

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Can you give me the ProComp rear shock number the kit comes with? I have new Rancho 7000MTs I wanna try to match specs up to the ProComp specs

pro comp 919500 Inez ships these with the kit
these fit on 2000 isuzu trooper that works with the Ram 4/6 and 5/7 lowering kit.
I got a set of KYB Gas-a-Just Shocks cross referenced to the trooper KG54308 but haven't installed them yet :crazy:
 

DARKNHT

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pro comp 919500 Inez ships these with the kit

these fit on 2000 isuzu trooper that works with the Ram 4/6 and 5/7 lowering kit.

I got a set of KYB Gas-a-Just Shocks cross referenced to the trooper KG54308 but haven't installed them yet :crazy:



Thanks!


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TylerB

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pro comp 919500 Inez ships these with the kit
these fit on 2000 isuzu trooper that works with the Ram 4/6 and 5/7 lowering kit.
I got a set of KYB Gas-a-Just Shocks cross referenced to the trooper KG54308 but haven't installed them yet :crazy:

Is this front and rear of the Trooper? I was thinking of trying the Bilstein 4600 for mine.
 

Quicksilver337

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Is this front and rear of the Trooper? I was thinking of trying the Bilstein 4600 for mine.
Those are for the rear, for the front you would re-use the factory shocks



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DARKNHT

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What year F150 swaybar links are people going with on the front?
 

DARKNHT

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I called Rancho about the RS999215 (fitment for a 2000 IZUZU Trooper 4WD) shocks they told me it wouldn't work as the mounts don't fit our trucks. Yet the INEZ kit uses the 9/16" mount as well I would assume that the RS999215 has on it. So does the INEZ shocks come with new hardware, or did you re-use the OEM hardware?
 

ramittome

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The rubber piece that comes in the shock is bigger than the bolts on our trucks, so they ship a spacer for it as well.
 
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