This is right after the swap before the spings have settled. They've dropped about another 3/8" and you can see the rear is a little high, that's because of it resting on the bump stops. With the bump stop removed I'm sitting +- 1/4" from 32" ground to inner fender.
This is true to a point, and I completely agree about the race car suspension being totally different. For on-road driving, trying to keep the upper and lower bars parallel will give you an infinite instant center, which means you'll have minimal anti-squat and front/rear body roll. If the lower bar is parallel then you have a good starting point to measure everything from.
With just the lowering work I've done, my lower arms are about 3 degrees down, so my instant center is well below the line of thrust, which will push the suspension up and unload it a bit, but a stiffer air spring will cure most of this for track days and I'll probably be coupling this with a dual adjustable shock so I can stiffen the compression on track days.
For the OP, it sounds like you are willing to recalculate the proper placement of the body mounts to realign everything and I'm interested in what you end up doing. I know my solution isn't ideal, it's a bandaid fix to reduce body squat/suspension unloading by using damping instead of elimination. I'm surprised you're having such bad wheel hop given the minimal changes to the rear geometry unless there's a hardware issue.