Lower rear links.

charonblk07 said:

If you have wheel hop, then your control arms are not the problem. All the control arms do is constrain the movement into an arc, they don't restrain movement. If the wheels are hopping then either your shocks or springs aren't doing their job... or you just have crappy tires with poor traction. If the springs are too soft or more likely the shocks aren't damping properly you'll get wheel hop. I'm down 4/6 and I have minimal room between my upper arm bracket and the lower arm, however I'm running the McG's springs and Belltech shocks. I can spin the tires but there is no hopping.

Now, with your lower stance, the OEM upper and lower control arms are holding the axle at an angle which in turn bends the spring rather than cpmpresses it. This is corrected by using the adjustable control arms to bring the pinion angle back into spec which will align the springs as well.

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charonblk07 said:

i didn't cut anything from mine to get 4/6 since i'm a 4wd. I'm using the mcg's spindles and the gf springs up front, and the 2wd 4" springs to bring the back down 6" coupled with the belltech 2wd rear shocks. I have completely removed the bump stop cups and only have a 3/4" progressive bump stop that's just bolted into the frame.

I'm also going to the hellwig air spring shortly so i can have better control over rear ride height.

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BlkRamRt said:

do you have pics of your truck? I want to see how much gap you have. Are you running 22's?

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HOTRODHARLEY said:

The angle of the link bars can cause issues due to the location of instant center. Ideally you want your lower bars to be as close to parallel to the ground as possible. When I say ideally I mean good enough for our low horsepower street trucks. Race cars with 4 links are a whole other animal...

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charonblk07 said:

This is right after the swap before the spings have settled. They've dropped about another 3/8" and you can see the rear is a little high, that's because of it resting on the bump stops. With the bump stop removed I'm sitting +- 1/4" from 32" ground to inner fender.





This is true to a point, and I completely agree about the race car suspension being totally different. For on-road driving, trying to keep the upper and lower bars parallel will give you an infinite instant center, which means you'll have minimal anti-squat and front/rear body roll. If the lower bar is parallel then you have a good starting point to measure everything from.

With just the lowering work I've done, my lower arms are about 3 degrees down, so my instant center is well below the line of thrust, which will push the suspension up and unload it a bit, but a stiffer air spring will cure most of this for track days and I'll probably be coupling this with a dual adjustable shock so I can stiffen the compression on track days.

For the OP, it sounds like you are willing to recalculate the proper placement of the body mounts to realign everything and I'm interested in what you end up doing. I know my solution isn't ideal, it's a bandaid fix to reduce body squat/suspension unloading by using damping instead of elimination. I'm surprised you're having such bad wheel hop given the minimal changes to the rear geometry unless there's a hardware issue.

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HOTRODHARLEY said:

Like I said in my post. The lower bars parallel. Not BOTH. Obviously the upper and lowers parallel is not a proper setup.

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charonblk07 said:

This is right after the swap before the spings have settled. They've dropped about another 3/8" and you can see the rear is a little high, that's because of it resting on the bump stops. With the bump stop removed I'm sitting +- 1/4" from 32" ground to inner fender.

the rig looks good. i see you used projectors in the fogs.

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