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Lowered Suspension: An Engineering Perspective.


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Originally Posted by moregrip Something maybe worth looking into for those that have the adjustable Spohn arms. I actually like ...


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Old 12-19-2016, 04:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by moregrip View Post
Something maybe worth looking into for those that have the adjustable Spohn arms.

I actually like the Spohn arms quite a bit except for the frequent adjustments and clunking, as many have stated.

My thought was to get an ID measurement of the stock control arm bushing ring, then find a way to machine out the threads/extra material on the one side of the Spohn control arms to either the same ID as the stock control arm where a stock rubber bushing(think Moog replacement) would be pressed in "or" if that ID was to large once the required material was removed, machine a weld-able bushing ring with the requisite OD and the same stock ID/width as a stock control arm ring.

In this case, you would have a serviceable bushing, low NVH, and an adjustable arm.
They're not really anything special.

Adjustable control arms are a pretty straightforward deal.

You can buy threaded, weld on inserts to put on DOM tubing and then just have one right-hand thread and one left-hand thread end to put on. They even make forged ends with poly or rubber to thread into the arms themselves. That's what I'm looking into currently, and depending on how it's done, you may be able to use the same arm with different ends, meaning you could run poly on the same arm as rubber or even solid. That's a big cost reduction in the end.

This place sells the threaded tube inserts: http://www.barnes4wd.com/Tube-Inserts_c_16.html

Here's what I'm talking about with the different ends. This place sells both solid and rubber threaded rod ends, so you could use either.

Pics:

Rubber rod end:


Solid rod end:


Link:
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/builder...d-ends-inserts


I just need to either find someone to weld the ends on the tube or finally pony up and buy a welder.

Originally Posted by moregrip View Post
need some pics of that cut front coil on and off the truck brother!
Sadly, I never took any pictures after I cut the coil. The girlfriend was complaining about me being busy so I finished it as quick as I could and forgot to document it. Whoops lol.

I'll have to pull the coil off to shim it anyways, so I'll get pics then.
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Old 12-26-2016, 11:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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I wish I could find someone around here that could aline my truck right without wanting 2 to 300. It's only leveled in the rear with 22s if I'm going to pay that much I'll wait and drop it all the way down where I want it then pay that's stupid.


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Old 12-27-2016, 05:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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only thing in the rear to align is the pinion angle and thrust angle to make sure everything is centered. Do you have any vibrations at all?


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Old 12-28-2016, 03:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by scotts2012ram View Post
I wish I could find someone around here that could aline my truck right without wanting 2 to 300. It's only leveled in the rear with 22s if I'm going to pay that much I'll wait and drop it all the way down where I want it then pay that's stupid.
Honestly, I just do mine visually. I have a pretty good eye and I'm OCD as hell, so it comes out pretty damn close. Certainly close enough to drive around on for awhile while I mess with things.

Camber is pretty easy to get right. Toe is the most difficult one. Easiest thing to do is get a 2x4 that's long enough to set against the front and back of the front and rear tires. Basically there should be four points of contact, one on the front and rear of the front and rear tires. If the toe is off, then there will only be two or three points where it contancts.

Originally Posted by razor1 View Post
only thing in the rear to align is the pinion angle and thrust angle to make sure everything is centered. Do you have any vibrations at all?
There's also the axle position front to rear and left to right.


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Old 01-03-2017, 08:52 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Pulled my spohn arms apart and cleaned them up, so I'll probably do a write up and add that in sometime this week.


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Old 01-04-2017, 02:25 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Damn. Nice thread. This is interesting as hell.


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Old 01-04-2017, 03:57 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by PassivAggressor View Post
Damn. Nice thread. This is interesting as hell.
Sheeeeeet, I haven't even delved into the math yet.

Still working on the Excel sheet for all that.
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Old 01-05-2017, 09:01 AM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Could you go into detail of the ride quality between the springs?


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Old 01-05-2017, 09:57 AM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by PassivAggressor View Post
Could you go into detail of the ride quality between the springs?
It's tough to say exactly because I'm running such a bastardized system right now that it isn't really a fair comparison. It's close to a 2/4 drop but I still have stock shocks and I can't get the camber out of the front all the way.

Taking all that into account, it rides really, really well. The front springs are a lot stiffer and I've been pleasantly surprised that the stock shocks have held up so well.
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Old 01-05-2017, 10:54 AM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Dubstep Shep View Post
It's tough to say exactly because I'm running such a bastardized system right now that it isn't really a fair comparison. It's close to a 2/4 drop but I still have stock shocks and I can't get the camber out of the front all the way.

Taking all that into account, it rides really, really well. The front springs are a lot stiffer and I've been pleasantly surprised that the stock shocks have held up so well.
Awesome. I had cut a coil off of the stock springs you sent me and a few coils off the rear. It was strange. It rode decently but definitely was stiff. It certainly did not have that bouncy feeling at all.

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
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