Lowering

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thumperpa

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I've been trying to get as much info on lowering kits before I order one and it seems there are pros and cons to each kit which brings me to my next question. Has anyone used a ground force 2/3 kit and had any issues because there is no relocation bracket for the track bar nor is there any end links with the 2wd kit. I asked GF and was told there kit didn't need anything like that because there kit retains all the factory geometry so is this true or are they full of bs as I'm loving all the info I've retained from you guys on the process of lowering these trucks and all necessary components that are key so I'm looking to you guys once again on the ground force kit. TY
 

DavidRam

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I've been trying to get as much info on lowering kits before I order one and it seems there are pros and cons to each kit which brings me to my next question. Has anyone used a ground force 2/3 kit and had any issues because there is no relocation bracket for the track bar nor is there any end links with the 2wd kit. I asked GF and was told there kit didn't need anything like that because there kit retains all the factory geometry so is this true or are they full of bs as I'm loving all the info I've retained from you guys on the process of lowering these trucks and all necessary components that are key so I'm looking to you guys once again on the ground force kit. TY

I have used a couple of GFs kits, and I would say they are a quality product for sure.
Start with the kit and build on it as needed.
 
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thumperpa

thumperpa

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Ty

I have used a couple of GFs kits, and I would say they are a quality product for sure.
Start with the kit and build on it as needed.

Does the GF really keep the axle in stock position?
Since you've used BT & GF which kit would be the better one to use without the spohn adjustable bars
 

Dubstep Shep

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I've been trying to get as much info on lowering kits before I order one and it seems there are pros and cons to each kit which brings me to my next question. Has anyone used a ground force 2/3 kit and had any issues because there is no relocation bracket for the track bar nor is there any end links with the 2wd kit. I asked GF and was told there kit didn't need anything like that because there kit retains all the factory geometry so is this true or are they full of bs as I'm loving all the info I've retained from you guys on the process of lowering these trucks and all necessary components that are key so I'm looking to you guys once again on the ground force kit. TY

How the hell does a 2/3 drop retain factory geometry? That's a load of ****.
 

DavidRam

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Does the GF really keep the axle in stock position?
Since you've used BT & GF which kit would be the better one to use without the spohn adjustable bars

Nothing is going to stay in the stock position, but it won't move as much as with the BT kit...
 

DavidRam

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How the hell does a 2/3 drop retain factory geometry? That's a load of ****.

Because it's more like a 1.5/2.5... :superhack:

Btw, I am not supporting the claim of factory geometry, but it is definitely not a full 2/3 drop.
 
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Dubstep Shep

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Even at a 1.5/2.5 the geometry will change.
 
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thumperpa

thumperpa

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?

Not sure but I can copy paste the email from GF telling me that there kit retains the factory geometery but I'm not sure just trying to figure everything out as I want to lower my QC and not have to buy the spohn stuff right away but honestly it's starting to look like I will be. And my other concern is cutting the crossmember with the BT kit cause I have a 13 QCRB I sent BT an email as their instructions were not definitive on what trucks will need the cross member cut or not. I haven't been able to track down Mcgaughy's instructions to see if there kit requires any cutting/modification to the crossmember. Thanks again guys
 

DavidRam

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Not sure but I can copy paste the email from GF telling me that there kit retains the factory geometery but I'm not sure just trying to figure everything out as I want to lower my QC and not have to buy the spohn stuff right away but honestly it's starting to look like I will be. And my other concern is cutting the crossmember with the BT kit cause I have a 13 QCRB I sent BT an email as their instructions were not definitive on what trucks will need the cross member cut or not. I haven't been able to track down Mcgaughy's instructions to see if there kit requires any cutting/modification to the crossmember. Thanks again guys

You definitely won't need the Spohn stuff right away with the GF kit...

Even with the BT kit, I know MANY guys who are running just the kit and nothing else with no problems.
 
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thumperpa

thumperpa

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Ty

You definitely won't need the Spohn stuff right away with the GF kit...

Even with the BT kit, I know MANY guys who are running just the kit and nothing else with no problems.

Honestly the BT is what I originally wanted then over a lil time add the hellwig and spohn components. But then I read about cutting the crossmember and I don't want that cause I have some friends at the dodge dealer I go to and as long as I don't cut anything my warranty is good and I bought a 6 yr extended so that's my draw back with the BT
 

Hemi450hp

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I am running the Ground Force 2/3 kit on my crew cab 4wd, and I got a full 2/4 drop out of it. The panhard bar is not parallel to the axle, and the axle is slightly offset to 1 side.

Too many guys are trying to overthink the lowering kits on these trucks. I have hundreds of customers running the regular Belltech Street Performance kit with stock control arms and stock panhard bar. The only part that I consider a necessity with any brand lowering kit is an aftermarket rear swaybar. Not every truck needs this, but the majority of trucks will see almost no wobble at higher speeds with just the regular Belltech 2/4 drop, Hellwig rear swaybar, and stock control arms and panhard bar. Keep it simple and then just build on it from there if you decide you want to get more aggressive with the suspension.
 
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thumperpa

thumperpa

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I am running the Ground Force 2/3 kit on my crew cab 4wd, and I got a full 2/4 drop out of it. The panhard bar is not parallel to the axle, and the axle is slightly offset to 1 side.

Too many guys are trying to overthink the lowering kits on these trucks. I have hundreds of customers running the regular Belltech Street Performance kit with stock control arms and stock panhard bar. The only part that I consider a necessity with any brand lowering kit is an aftermarket rear swaybar. Not every truck needs this, but the majority of trucks will see almost no wobble at higher speeds with just the regular Belltech 2/4 drop, Hellwig rear swaybar, and stock control arms and panhard bar. Keep it simple and then just build on it from there if you decide you want to get more aggressive with the suspension.
Do you know if the crossmember needs cut with BT kit on 2013 QCRB 2wd. I'm going to order the kit and other stuff from you kind sir
 

Hemi450hp

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Belltech recommends cutting the crossmember in their instructions, but I know quite a few guys that have slipped that step without ever making contact with the factory crossmember. I don't see that being a problem for you.
 

Milt IV

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Preface - I am speaking of 4x4 only

What I find puzzling is the different amount of drop the GF 2/3 kit is yielding people. You have people like "Hemi450hp" saying he got a full 2/4 drop on his CC. Then I see a thread for a CC that only got about 3" out back and didn't get any drop up front (according to HIS before and after measurements), then I see guys with reg cabs getting not quite 2" up front and not quite 3" out back. I don't think I've seen a truck one that actually got 2"/3" out of the GF 2/3 kit.

These posts/threads and kits I am referring to are all stock kits with no cut springs or anything else. I do think some of it can be attributed to people not knowing how to take proper before and after measurements. ALWAY measure from the bottom of the fender to the center of the axle! This way if you change tires/wheels at the same time you install your kit you are still getting accurate measurements for the suspension changes. I'm amazed at how many post I see with guys measuring from the fender to the ground, then changing tires/wheels to a smaller overall diameter at the same time as the lowering kit and thinking they got more "drop" from the suspension. I also see guys measuring from the fender to the top of the tire and getting the same inaccurate results with a wheel/tire change. It also doesn't help if you take the truck off the lift and measure it right away without even driving around for a bit to let the suspension settle.

I can tell you that my CC 4x4 is at the shop as I type this getting the GF 2/3 kit #9984 installed. I am praying that I get the full 2/4 drop out of the kit but I'm not betting my life on it. I can say that the few guys I've seen say they got the full 2/4 drop seem to be reputable and know their ****, i.e. "Hemi450hp". I'm gonna be disappointed if I paid ~$800 to get 1" up front and 2" out back. I'll be hacking those springs up right quick if that turns out to be the case. Fingers crossed.
 

CMil527

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Preface - I am speaking of 4x4 only

What I find puzzling is the different amount of drop the GF 2/3 kit is yielding people. You have people like "Hemi450hp" saying he got a full 2/4 drop on his CC. Then I see a thread for a CC that only got about 3" out back and didn't get any drop up front (according to HIS before and after measurements), then I see guys with reg cabs getting not quite 2" up front and not quite 3" out back. I don't think I've seen a truck one that actually got 2"/3" out of the GF 2/3 kit.

These posts/threads and kits I am referring to are all stock kits with no cut springs or anything else. I do think some of it can be attributed to people not knowing how to take proper before and after measurements. ALWAY measure from the bottom of the fender to the center of the axle! This way if you change tires/wheels at the same time you install your kit you are still getting accurate measurements for the suspension changes. I'm amazed at how many post I see with guys measuring from the fender to the ground, then changing tires/wheels to a smaller overall diameter at the same time as the lowering kit and thinking they got more "drop" from the suspension. I also see guys measuring from the fender to the top of the tire and getting the same inaccurate results with a wheel/tire change. It also doesn't help if you take the truck off the lift and measure it right away without even driving around for a bit to let the suspension settle.

I can tell you that my CC 4x4 is at the shop as I type this getting the GF 2/3 kit #9984 installed. I am praying that I get the full 2/4 drop out of the kit but I'm not betting my life on it. I can say that the few guys I've seen say they got the full 2/4 drop seem to be reputable and know their ****, i.e. "Hemi450hp". I'm gonna be disappointed if I paid ~$800 to get 1" up front and 2" out back. I'll be hacking those springs up right quick if that turns out to be the case. Fingers crossed.
In for pics!! :favorites13:
 

Dubstep Shep

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I am running the Ground Force 2/3 kit on my crew cab 4wd, and I got a full 2/4 drop out of it. The panhard bar is not parallel to the axle, and the axle is slightly offset to 1 side.

Too many guys are trying to overthink the lowering kits on these trucks. I have hundreds of customers running the regular Belltech Street Performance kit with stock control arms and stock panhard bar. The only part that I consider a necessity with any brand lowering kit is an aftermarket rear swaybar. Not every truck needs this, but the majority of trucks will see almost no wobble at higher speeds with just the regular Belltech 2/4 drop, Hellwig rear swaybar, and stock control arms and panhard bar. Keep it simple and then just build on it from there if you decide you want to get more aggressive with the suspension.

It's not that we're overthinking it, it's that we have high standards lol.
 

Dubstep Shep

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The older I get the lower my standards go... Oh, we are still talking about suspension?! Lol

Bwahaha, that just sucks.

Yea, I've yet to figure out why my Z06 rides more comfortably than my truck even though it's lower, but it's on my to-do list.
 

PassivAggressor

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Bwahaha, that just sucks.

Yea, I've yet to figure out why my Z06 rides more comfortably than my truck even though it's lower, but it's on my to-do list.

Probably because the truck has a solid rear axle and not independent like the Vette.
 
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