Possibly selling my Belltech 2/4" drop springs

I am considering getting the crown suspension 2/3" drop. From what I have read the springs are stiffer.

So if I do in fact get them I will sell my belltech springs. They are the 2" front drop springs and the 4" rear drop springs. They are brand new. Been on the truck for about 5 days.... Haha.

What dont you like about the belltechs?

Avgas said:

What dont you like about the belltechs?

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It is my understanding that the Belltech springs are not stiffer than stock. So you are losing roughly 4" inch of travel and not stiffening the rear springs (not sure if the front are stiffer than stock). So the rear axle is basically sitting on the bump stops.

I am hitting the rear bump stops everyday and that is trying to be very careful. I can not be any more careful with my driving because I will become an obstacle to other vehicles (by slowing down significantly to go over bumps).


I have read that crown springs are 20% stiffer than stock. There are some people on here that have had the BT 2/4 drop then the CS 2/4 drop and have stated that the CS springs perform much better.

So I want to gain an inch of travel in the rear (by going to a 3" drop) and also getting a stiffer spring.

A lot of people run the BT 2/4 and are good with it. I on the other hand am definitely not.

I had lots of space in the rear. By lots I mean like 2-3 inches of space. My front ones were basically riding on them. I only noticed it when going over rail road tracks. Roads here in fl aren't too bad, no rock salt or plows to wreck things.

I'm sad to hear it didn't work out for you.

Which shocks did you use?

cut the bumpstops down some and install airlift 1000 helper bags. Mine only fits on a really hard dip in the road .

2x on the Airlift bags
15lbs made all the difference
Still road close to, or on the rear bump stops but not as jarring and bouncy

adurm said:

I had lots of space in the rear. By lots I mean like 2-3 inches of space. My front ones were basically riding on them. I only noticed it when going over rail road tracks. Roads here in fl aren't too bad, no rock salt or plows to wreck things.

I'm sad to hear it didn't work out for you.

Which shocks did you use?

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I have not measured the actual distance from the bumpstop (rear axle) to the bump stop plate. After DavidRam mentioned they ride super close I took a look and saw it was VERY close. Mind you, the springs are brand new and have not settled yet so they will drop even closer.

I have only hit the fronts one time so far and it was not too bad.
Shocks: Front- Stock Rear- Belltech Street Performance Shock

On a smooth road the truck feels good. It corners very well (I also put a hellwig sway bar on so it is hard to say how much of the cornering improvement is from the actual lowering kit and how much from the sway bar). Though for me as a DD I just can't run these. I live in Houston and the roads are not too great. I mean, yes I drive on areas that are pretty good but I also live in the Galleria (and the roads are kind of ******. Not necessarily pot holes but just drops and dips at expansion joints) I am literally hitting the rear bump stops every time I drive.

At this point I am for sure getting the crown springs based on what I have read. The things I am uncertain of are if I will run a 2/3 drop or a 2/2 drop. I think with the stiffer crown spring in the rear and the increase in 1" suspension travel, it will help keep me off the bump stops much better than the Belltech.

I understand from peoples post that I can cut the rear bump stops but at this point I don't want to put a band-aid (IMO) on the problem (problem being you have a 4" drop and springs that are the same spring rate as stock)

I did benefit by getting the Belltech kit because I got the shorter rear sway bar end-links, panhard relocation bracket and the shorter bump stops (front and rear). I will keep everyone posted. I am going to make a post asking if someone with Crown springs 2/3 can show a picture of their vehicle from the side. So I have a better idea.

razor1 said:

cut the bumpstops down some and install airlift 1000 helper bags. Mine only fits on a really hard dip in the road .

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I thought about getting the bags when I was buying my B/T kit. For whatever reason I did not....

How do you install them? I mean, do you have to have the spring off? Or does the bag deform enough to squeeze it through a coil so you can get it on the inside of the spring without removal?

At this point I guess the install does not matter, as I will get the CS springs and then I could install the bags whenever I did that install.

Stock bump stops?

Sillygoose said:

Stock bump stops?

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No. I have the shorter bumpstops provided in the belltech kit (front and rear).

Ak47bravo said:

I thought about getting the bags when I was buying my B/T kit. For whatever reason I did not....

How do you install them? I mean, do you have to have the spring off? Or does the bag deform enough to squeeze it through a coil so you can get it on the inside of the spring without removal?

At this point I guess the install does not matter, as I will get the CS springs and then I could install the bags whenever I did that install.

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Bags and air lines are definitely easier to install if the springs are out.Warm the bags in the sun or some hot water to make them a little more pliable when stuffing them inside the spring.If you're going to do a manual air set-up,the licence plate bolts make a decent place to run the fittings through and not stick out like a sore thumb when looking at the back of the truck.Run individual lines to each bag,don't tie them together.

Wild one said:

Bags and air lines are definitely easier to install if the springs are out.Warm the bags in the sun or some hot water to make them a little more pliable when stuffing them inside the spring.If you're going to do a manual air set-up,the licence plate bolts make a decent place to run the fittings through and not stick out like a sore thumb when looking at the back of the truck.Run individual lines to each bag,don't tie them together.

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Do you have a picture of your setup?

Ak47bravo said:

Do you have a picture of your setup?

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It's not my set-up,it's the way my buddy did his,so no pictures sorry. He originally tied the lines together,but that didn't really pan out,and he ended up running individual lines to each bag. Where he got the idea for running his airline fittings through the licence plate holes ,I couldn't tell you,but it turned out to be a pretty decent spot to have them at least for him it did. With black valve caps on the fittings you didn't even really notice them. I helped him re-run the individual lines,and warming the bags up to make them a little more pliable helps,lol

Ak47bravo said:

No. I have the shorter bumpstops provided in the belltech kit (front and rear).

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did you have to cut out the front bumpstops? and do you know the measurements of the bumpstops i need to replace mine i just did a 2/4 drop and it has the stock bumpstops

damn your streets must be as bad as those right in the heart of Motown (not suburbs) is is possible to put the springs in backwards ie fronts in the rear, rears in front????? My truck sits at 34" at the back wheel well and just about 33 1/2 in the front an I have not had any hits other than once. Keep in mind I am 2 full days of driving north of you so we go from -40F to 90F ie lots of potholes and heave.

Wild one said:

It's not my set-up,it's the way my buddy did his,so no pictures sorry. He originally tied the lines together,but that didn't really pan out,and he ended up running individual lines to each bag. Where he got the idea for running his airline fittings through the licence plate holes ,I couldn't tell you,but it turned out to be a pretty decent spot to have them at least for him it did. With black valve caps on the fittings you didn't even really notice them. I helped him re-run the individual lines,and warming the bags up to make them a little more pliable helps,lol

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Sounds like a pretty cool setup! I will consider that if I end up doing bags. I was thinking about where exactly I would mount the airlines if I were to. This definitely gives me some ideas.

M27 said:

did you have to cut out the front bumpstops? and do you know the measurements of the bumpstops i need to replace mine i just did a 2/4 drop and it has the stock bumpstops

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The front OEM bump stops just pulled out of the metal cup they sit in. Though apparently based on the Belltech instructions you are supposed to grind this cup down. You grind the cup down to expose more of the new bumpstop. The new bumpstop barely sticks out past this metal cup. So it hard has any dampening effect before the control arm makes contact with the metal cup.

I do not have the measurements of the new bumpstops but it is definitely smaller. You really should get them (not sure if you could even just get the front bump stops of not. I thought all the kits came with them).

I did not grind this metal cup off because I misread the Belltech instructions wrong. (I thought it wanted me to use a grinder to remove the oem bump stop out of the cup. I was able to pull it out so I figured... hmm, why the hell would you need to grind this out? It just didn't make sense at the time but I was too frustrated trying to get other stuff done to really figure out what the deal was)

Here is a crappy picture I drew which may help. The reason the new bumpstop has a bolt is to keep the bump stop attached (after you grind down the metal cup that holds the bump stop. I mean, I guess if you did not grind down the entire cup, it could potentially still hold onto the bump stop but perhaps not enough and it would eventually fall out).

THETANK said:

damn your streets must be as bad as those right in the heart of Motown (not suburbs) is is possible to put the springs in backwards ie fronts in the rear, rears in front????? My truck sits at 34" at the back wheel wheel and just about 33 1/2 in the front an I have not had any hits other than once. Keep in mind I am 2 full days of driving north of you so we go from -40F to 90F ie lots of potholes and heave.

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Yea, people have told me ("Oh, well when you are lowered you just have to be careful driving and avoid stuff") Well, there are many places where 1. You can't avoid everything and 2. if you slow down to the point where you would not bottom out you would be a risk to traffic (probably get rear ended because you are going so much slower than traffic).

Definitely installed the front springs up front and rears in back. I do not know if it would be possible to accidentally swap them 1. Because the front springs are much wider (especially at the base of the coil) than the rears and the mounting perch where the fronts sit seems like it would be way too big for the rears to seat properly. Basically you would know something was up if you were trying to install the fronts in the back or vice versa. Amongst the fact that the B/T front springs look similar (in terms of thickness of coils, spacing of coils, width spring, etc.) to the stock springs.

Also if somehow you got the rears in the front you would be sitting on the bump stops I would imagine. The rear springs are so much weaker than the fronts (since the fronts are much thicker to carry the weight of the motor). You would know real quick I would think.

Ak47bravo said:

The front OEM bump stops just pulled out of the metal cup they sit in. Though apparently based on the Belltech instructions you are supposed to grind this cup down. You grind the cup down to expose more of the new bumpstop. The new bumpstop barely sticks out past this metal cup. So it hard has any dampening effect before the control arm makes contact with the metal cup.

I do not have the measurements of the new bumpstops but it is definitely smaller. You really should get them (not sure if you could even just get the front bump stops of not. I thought all the kits came with them).

I did not grind this metal cup off because I misread the Belltech instructions wrong. (I thought it wanted me to use a grinder to remove the oem bump stop out of the cup. I was able to pull it out so I figured... hmm, why the hell would you need to grind this out? It just didn't make sense at the time but I was too frustrated trying to get other stuff done to really figure out what the deal was)

Here is a crappy picture I drew which may help. The reason the new bumpstop has a bolt is to keep the bump stop attached (after you grind down the metal cup that holds the bump stop. I mean, I guess if you did not grind down the entire cup, it could potentially still hold onto the bump stop but perhaps not enough and it would eventually fall out).

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Have you removed the front OEM bumpstop/housing yet or is it still in place?

moregrip said:

Have you removed the front OEM bumpstop/housing yet or is it still in place?

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No, the front bumpstop metal cup housing is still in place. So I barely have any bump stop going past the metal cup housing. So if I bottom out the front hard its going to be brutal (since it will basically be metal on metal).