Spohn Arms / Inez kit

R/T_Fire said:

So I know that the Spohn arms will no longer be needed with transitioning over to a Inez Kit, but they will still work for fine tuning adjustments.
Is there still interest in the spohn arms out there if I were to sell them and just go back to my stockers with the inez kit? Or did the constant maintenance on them pretty much scare everyone away and made them unsalable?

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charonblk07 said:

Keep in mind that the kit was built on a specific truck at a specific height. Different body styles and possibly different heights/springs will neccessitate adjustable arms. If yo already have the spohn arms I would keep them as it will give you the best possible alignment even with the kit getting everything back into spec, but that's me.

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R/T_Fire said:

That's kinda what I was thinking, but was also thinking of building a set that require a little less maintenance.. one of these days when I have time (I never do) i plan to reset up the motor angle to a more desirable angle of 2-3 degrees and redo the pinion angle and when I do that I will re-tighten the delrin bushings again but set with a torq setting so I have a baseline to compare to when I adjust them again.

I also think the main issue with the Spohn arms isn't the arms but the frame pocket they mount in not being the same width so I may look into that and fab some correct "exact" width alignment spacers.

Edit, I should note that with the frame of the truck level at 0 degree angle, my engine and trans angle is at 6.5 degrees.... puts my pinion angle off so bad that it bows my springs and effects ride and handling. so I either need to correct the trans mount or adjust the spring buckets on the axle.... being that no one else is having this issue I lean to the motors/trans angle being the issue

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charonblk07 said:

I've ended up with Rick's set of rear control arms from Rob (cutterup), the ridiculously heavy set he first built, which should hold up a hell of a lot better than the Spohn arms over the long run since there's no adjustments reuired to the spherical joint.

When I put the 4L80 into I'm going to be looking at adjusting the output angle and trying to get into a better position since the truck's been lowered so much the factoy 5 degrees seems a bit on the high end.

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R/T_Fire said:

How are you looking to get a 4L80 in there? and why not the Nag1? just curious.... I'm still planning on going T-56.... for now

But for now I was just going to modify the trans mount to sit higher at the trans to mount location... not sure how much I need to yet. I will also have to look into those arms but for now I'm thinking just some johhny joints and some DOM tubing.. just need to decide if I should swap over to a true parallel 4 ling while I'm at it or stick with the stock geometry...

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charonblk07 said:

4L80 has adapter plates or bellhousings already built to install directly to the Gen III block and I can either use a manual valve body or run a standalone TCM with a ratchet shifter. The PCM is easy to make happy, it can just be adjusted to manual transmission mode and then it doesn't look for any additional input. A 4L80 TCM can be fine tuned to whatever criteria I want, the Nag1 is not an open TCM with any programming support. Also, a NAG1 swap would be $10-12K, a 4L80 with TCM will be $5-6K for a 1000hp capable trans with torque converter.

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