Spoon bars clunking

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SKWURLZ

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Did you ever see the one DavidRam made? And with your fab skills, have you thought about doing a watts link instead ?

Spare and exhaust is in the way for a proper Watts Link. I am trying to keep all the factory locations on the truck, so it could one day be easily converted back to stock. But yeah, would love to figure out a way to do a Watts Link.
 

R/T_Fire

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Spare and exhaust is in the way for a proper Watts Link. I am trying to keep all the factory locations on the truck, so it could one day be easily converted back to stock. But yeah, would love to figure out a way to do a Watts Link.

Ah, yeah going back to stock makes that difficult. and you can use my truck as a guinea pig on a watts link. Its in my build plans for when I move the fuel tank to the rear. I already don't run a spare..... AAA aka buddy down the street is my spare tire. :roflsquared:
 

SKWURLZ

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My truck was slower on the strip with the spare removed. go figure.
 

razor1

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that extra 30 lbs or so in the back for traction. I keep two 75lb sand snakes over my rear wheel wells in the bed because the roads get slick here in the rain.
 

R/T_Fire

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that extra 30 lbs or so in the back for traction. I keep two 75lb sand snakes over my rear wheel wells in the bed because the roads get slick here in the rain.

Yup, I don't have much for track times to prove it but I seem to get the same wheel spin no matter what. Mine is off mostly cause I'm lazy and never put it back on after exhaust repair and panhard bar install and to measure for a fuel tank back there.

But I do the same during the rainy season here in cali. I put some weight in the bed
 

Ak47bravo

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So I found this video on youtube. It shows one of Spohn's Del-Sphere joints dissembled, then the guy in the video shows how to assemble it.

After he tightens down the joint he aligns the outer piece with a hole on the housing (for a set screw). This prevents the joints threaded retainer ring from loosening or tightening. I have not looked closely at the Del-Sphere joint on my spohn arms (and the one in the video just shows a Del-Sphere joint by itself- not actually on a upper or lower control arm).

My question is this:

1. Do the Spohn arms have this "Set screw" to prevent the joint from loosening.

2. If yes, how the hell is the joint still loosening with a set screw? Unless the set screw works itself out overtime and thus nothing is keeping the threaded retainer ring from loosening.

Go to 3:40 on the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WESL6FV7Uus
 

razor1

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yes, there is a set screw per joint.
The joint is not loosening, it is getting the cup to match the curves of the joint itself. They are trying to match surface curves. joint outside diameter curve to cup inner diameter curve. Basically wearing in the cups to match the joint or ball end.
 

Ak47bravo

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yes, there is a set screw per joint.
The joint is not loosening, it is getting the cup to match the curves of the joint itself. They are trying to match surface curves. joint outside diameter curve to cup inner diameter curve. Basically wearing in the cups to match the joint or ball end.

Ok. That makes sense. Thanks for the info.
 

razor1

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i'm glad I was about 3 sheets to the wind when typing that. Funny it made any sense.
 

SKWURLZ

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So I found this video on youtube. It shows one of Spohn's Del-Sphere joints dissembled, then the guy in the video shows how to assemble it.

After he tightens down the joint he aligns the outer piece with a hole on the housing (for a set screw). This prevents the joints threaded retainer ring from loosening or tightening. I have not looked closely at the Del-Sphere joint on my spohn arms (and the one in the video just shows a Del-Sphere joint by itself- not actually on a upper or lower control arm).

My question is this:

1. Do the Spohn arms have this "Set screw" to prevent the joint from loosening.

2. If yes, how the hell is the joint still loosening with a set screw? Unless the set screw works itself out overtime and thus nothing is keeping the threaded retainer ring from loosening.

Go to 3:40 on the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WESL6FV7Uus

The set screw puts a load on the retaining ring, causing it to become "out of round" Under excessive loads, it oblongs and pops out.

Happened to me twice, set screw was still in original tight position both failures. The entire ring was dislodged and flopping around. the second time it happened, the lock ring was bent/warped. Had to use a BFH and a vice to "flatten it" so I could re-install and drive home.
 

gonzo1968

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I have an older set of CA's with Delrin bushings, what am I to do???
 

razor1

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SKWURLZ, any update on your new setup? I'm about at my limit with these Spohn arms.
 

SKWURLZ

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SKWURLZ, any update on your new setup? I'm about at my limit with these Spohn arms.

Been Swamped with SEMA projects and my other build. Install was pushed out to this weekend. I'll update after I get the pinion angles dialed in.
 

bgray

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I just removed my Spohn arms 5 days ago, cant be any happier! F#CK THOSE ARMS!

I contacted spohn, guy was aware of the noise, and they do not have a resolution for us. I told him thats fine, and i was going to remove the arms and send them to the metal recycler. Utter junk.
 

DavidRam

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Man, it's crazy how much trouble you guys are having with these del-sphere joints...

I still think that simple chromoly bars and quality heims, makes for some damn good control arms, imho... They might even be cheaper than the Sphons, too.


Here is an example of the how simple it could be to diy them:

Choose your length: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/5-8-Inch-Chromoly-Swedged-Tubes,49536.html
$100 for all four

Choose your heims: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chrom...8-Inch-Hole,31954.html?OriginalQuery=91002146
$200 for all eight

Choose your jam nuts: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Search?query=afco+jam+nut
$20 for all eight

$320 approx total.

The above are just examples and NOT the exact parts needed. This is just a rough and general example of how few and simple the parts to make your own control arms...
 
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SKWURLZ

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Man, it's crazy how much trouble you guys are having with these del-sphere joints...

I still think that simple chromoly bars and quality heims, makes for some damn good control arms, imho... They might even be cheaper than the Sphons, too.


Here is an example of the how simple it could be to diy them:

Choose your length: 5/8 Inch Chromoly Swedged Tubes
$100 for all four

Choose your heims: Chromoly Heim Joint Rod Ends, 3/4-16 RH Male, 5/8 Inch Hole
$200 for all eight

Choose your jam nuts: afco jam nut @ Speedway Motors, The Racing and Rodding Specialists
$20 for all eight

$320 approx total.

The above are just examples and NOT the exact parts needed.

Those are Junk Heims, and 1" tube is way too small IMHO for our trucks.
I used 1" threaded Johnny Joints.
My customs arms, using 1.75" Chromoly, and 1" Threaded Johnny Joints was over $800 just in material.
 
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DavidRam

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Those are Junk Heims, and 1" tube is way too small IMHO for our trucks.
I used 1" threaded Johnny Joints.
My customs arms, using 1.75" Chromoly, and 1" Threaded Johnny Joints was over $800 just in material.

Did you read the part about "example"? I have used those heims and they aren't junk at all...
Besides the Spohns aren't a whole lot less than your $800s, either.

Edit: the Spohn bars are about $600 plus shipping, and iirc they are 1.5" mild steel DOM...
 
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SKWURLZ

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Did you read the part about "example"? I have used those heims and they aren't junk at all...
Besides the Spohns aren't a whole lot less than your $800s, either.

Edit: the Spohn bars are about $600 plus shipping, and iirc they are 1.5" mild steel DOM...

I read the part about example, and I felt you provided a really bad example, as the parts you called out are way undersized for this application.

What you describe would be akin to using M6 bolts in place of M12 Bolts.

Ive also had bad experience with anything other than FK or Aurora Rod Ends (heims) Everything else is not safe for suspension parts, unless you need it for a shift linkage on a Harley. I also don't think heims are the proper parts for this application either, unless its for a race car use only. They are noisy, and susceptible to contamination.

I'll post up when I have more user data on the BAMF Control Arms I built.
 
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