Spoon bars clunking

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SKWURLZ

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I'm still not satisfied with the Top of the line components. If the parts above aren't good enough, then cheaper less expensive ones are downright dangerous.

There are other options, Billet Rod Ends, I could have went full Heims too.

After everything I have thrown at this truck, all the parts, adjustments, etc... The ONLY way to properly fix it on a lowered truck is to modify the link arm mounts on the axle so at ride height they are parallel to the frame. Its the only way to fix the instant center to be within correct operating angles.
 

Dubstep Shep

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I'm still not satisfied with the Top of the line components. If the parts above aren't good enough, then cheaper less expensive ones are downright dangerous.

I wouldn't say the stock arms are dangerous. Maybe if you're drag racing with a ton of power on sticky tires, but there are a ton of really fast cars still running stock arms with rubber bushings. They're less than ideal, though, sure.

After everything I have thrown at this truck, all the parts, adjustments, etc... The ONLY way to properly fix it on a lowered truck is to modify the link arm mounts on the axle so at ride height they are parallel to the frame. Its the only way to fix the instant center to be within correct operating angles.

Well... Yea. That's how suspension geometry works hahaha. The best control arm in the world doesn't do anything to correct the geometry of said arm.
 

Gary's Hemi

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Raising the truck to 3" lowering springs may help a tad w/ the angles & associated problems but still give you a sporty look.
 

SKWURLZ

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Raising the truck to 3" lowering springs may help a tad w/ the angles & associated problems but still give you a sporty look.

Already tried that. I have 3 different spring rates. No change.
 

SKWURLZ

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I wouldn't say the stock arms are dangerous. Maybe if you're drag racing with a ton of power on sticky tires, but there are a ton of really fast cars still running stock arms with rubber bushings. They're less than ideal, though, sure.

Well... Yea. That's how suspension geometry works hahaha. The best control arm in the world doesn't do anything to correct the geometry of said arm.

I don't care about other fast cars. I care about my truck, and potentially coming up with a bolt on solution for every one with a factory linked RAM truck.

Drag racing the truck is fine, stays in a straight line no issues. Its when it gets off camber at 110+ mph on the freeway where **** gets scary.

The mounting locations are the issues, not the arms themselves.
With the current 4" drop, the instant center is almost 2ft under the bottom of the front tire. FOR all the GEN 4 RAM trucks running a 4" rear drop.
 

R/T_Fire

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I'm still not satisfied with the Top of the line components. If the parts above aren't good enough, then cheaper less expensive ones are downright dangerous.

There are other options, Billet Rod Ends, I could have went full Heims too.

After everything I have thrown at this truck, all the parts, adjustments, etc... The ONLY way to properly fix it on a lowered truck is to modify the link arm mounts on the axle so at ride height they are parallel to the frame. Its the only way to fix the instant center to be within correct operating angles.
Parallel link is my plan also. Have you looked into what Matt did to the shop truck?

My plan is similar yours as the use and a properly set up 4 link with a watts link I think is the way to go, but if you are building a dedicated drag track truck back halfing it is ok but there might be some cheaper better options on a 4link set up with factory frame. First step is ditching the oem fuel tank that gets in the way. Fuel cell in the rear or a blazer style tank is needed

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

SKWURLZ

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Parallel link is my plan also. Have you looked into what Matt did to the shop truck?

My plan is similar yours as the use and a properly set up 4 link with a watts link I think is the way to go, but if you are building a dedicated drag track truck back halfing it is ok but there might be some cheaper better options on a 4link set up with factory frame. First step is ditching the oem fuel tank that gets in the way. Fuel cell in the rear or a blazer style tank is needed

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Twisted Metal works has multiple ways to do it, all run parallel 4 link, with Watts link or stout panhard bar. Coilovers or Air Bags. He even keeps the OEM Fuel cell in the factory location, you just lose your spare tire.

My thought was parallel 4 link, with the OEM tank, Watts link, and coilover mounts but with Adjustable Ridetech Air Struts. Best of both worlds.

12394180_945866902174830_558411154_n.jpg
 
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Gary's Hemi

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I have been following that. If they hold up under hard launches at the track I'm going to get a set. The builder claims they will be stronger than the stock brackets
 

SKWURLZ

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I have been following that. If they hold up under hard launches at the track I'm going to get a set. The builder claims they will be stronger than the stock brackets

Thanks for the heads up on this. These look exactly like what I was envisioning in my head. I would think if one was to weld these in, and they're made with the same gauge steel as the factory bracket, strength wouldn't be an issue.

Time to go follow.
 

Dubstep Shep

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Thanks for the heads up on this. These look exactly like what I was envisioning in my head. I would think if one was to weld these in, and they're made with the same gauge steel as the factory bracket, strength wouldn't be an issue.

Time to go follow.

I doubt you even would have to weld them in. That type of bracket is commonplace in the mustang world and they do just fine with the bolt on versions.
 

Gary's Hemi

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I doubt you even would have to weld them in. That type of bracket is commonplace in the mustang world and they do just fine with the bolt on versions.

I had the brackets on my 06 Mustang GT. Only pulled a 1.7 60' but they held up w/ just being bolted & not welded
 
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SKWURLZ

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Maybe I am missing something from the pictures, but it looks as if the upper OEM mount is cut off, then the replacement bracket installed but with only one bolt....

I would think that could flex, and/or pivot. I do see it "capturing" the bend in the OEM lower bracket, my Thought was small bead welds there, and against the upper Axle tube as well.
 

Dubstep Shep

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Maybe I am missing something from the pictures, but it looks as if the upper OEM mount is cut off, then the replacement bracket installed but with only one bolt....

I would think that could flex, and/or pivot. I do see it "capturing" the bend in the OEM lower bracket, my Thought was small bead welds there, and against the upper Axle tube as well.

Supposedly there's a revised version of the bracket that doesn't involve cutting the top mount off.

Obviously welding it on never hurts though.
 

moregrip

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interested to see/hear driving impressions once they get installed.....looks like the factory 4 link control arms would be closer to parallel to the frame with these brackets vs the current geometry with our lowered trucks
 

SKWURLZ

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interested to see/hear driving impressions once they get installed.....looks like the factory 4 link control arms would be closer to parallel to the frame with these brackets vs the current geometry with our lowered trucks

Yep. The issue when lowering is the arms are no longer parrallel, and actually work against correct handling. Its not generally noticeable until high speeds or high speed off camber situations. Its due to the instant center being way off after lowering.

Changing lanes at 90+ and you hit an uneven road gets my truck unsettled right quick, and you have to back off the throttle to settle her down. Thats not optimal, and I have been chasing the problem with different spring rates, different drops, spohn control Arms, new custom control arms, driveline angles, shocks etc...

If these brackets work, it will save me a few grand, as the only other option is to have an entire new rear link system made from scratch.

When I was looking at trucks, I thought the rear link RAM setup was the best, vs leaf springs. Knowing what I know now, I should have bought a directed injected 2015 GMC Single Cab Shortbed with a 6.2L. It would have been in the weeds and 600rwhp by now, not to mention the wheel options are unlimited... But the GM interiors suck donkey balls, and the Hemi is a damn good motor.
 

J3FF3RSON

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Yep. The issue when lowering is the arms are no longer parrallel, and actually work against correct handling. Its not generally noticeable until high speeds or high speed off camber situations. Its due to the instant center being way off after lowering.

Changing lanes at 90+ and you hit an uneven road gets my truck unsettled right quick, and you have to back off the throttle to settle her down. Thats not optimal, and I have been chasing the problem with different spring rates, different drops, spohn control Arms, new custom control arms, driveline angles, shocks etc...

If these brackets work, it will save me a few grand, as the only other option is to have an entire new rear link system made from scratch.

When I was looking at trucks, I thought the rear link RAM setup was the best, vs leaf springs. Knowing what I know now, I should have bought a directed injected 2015 GMC Single Cab Shortbed with a 6.2L. It would have been in the weeds and 600rwhp by now, not to mention the wheel options are unlimited... But the GM interiors suck donkey balls, and the Hemi is a damn good motor.

I'm hoping these fix the creaking issues I'm having out of my truck over bumps and on uneven surfaces. I pull into a driveway and it sounds like I'm driving some nasty old rust bucket.
 

Dubstep Shep

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When I was looking at trucks, I thought the rear link RAM setup was the best, vs leaf springs. Knowing what I know now, I should have bought a directed injected 2015 GMC Single Cab Shortbed with a 6.2L. It would have been in the weeds and 600rwhp by now, not to mention the wheel options are unlimited... But the GM interiors suck donkey balls, and the Hemi is a damn good motor.

Meh, get a 5.0L F-150, slap a Whipple on it and call it a day. They're already flex fuel so you can run e85 on them and make 600rwhp without having to touch the engine, exhaust, transmission, axle, driveshaft, or anything except the Whipple kit.
 

SKWURLZ

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Meh, get a 5.0L F-150, slap a Whipple on it and call it a day. They're already flex fuel so you can run e85 on them and make 600rwhp without having to touch the engine, exhaust, transmission, axle, driveshaft, or anything except the Whipple kit.

Yeah, not sure if ya heard, but Magnuson/Eaton makes a TVS2650 now. The Whipple units are no longer efficient since the TVS2650 release.

We had a Hellcat here at work, installed the TVS2650, Tune, and made 871 RWHP. We then de-tuned to about 840, took it to the track and ran a 9.93 1/4 mile on the first pass, heat soaked from the staging lanes. We did have it running MS109 race fuel for safety reasons. But it was stock motor, stock fuel pump, Stock exhaust manifolds with cats, and only a Magnuson TVS2650 kit.

Hellcat-2T.jpg


The GM 6.2Di engine with a TVS2300 and fuel upgrade is 600 HP. No need to change anything other than maybe the exhaust.
 
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