New Guy from MD - 2003 4.7 4x4

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axshon

Junior Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2016
Posts
10
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7
Ram Year
2003
Engine
4.7
New guy here.

Picked up a pretty cheap 03 Ram 1500 the other day because the rear axle was blown. Not afraid to do a little wrenching so I grabbed it only to find that the rack and pinion was also shot. I got a 9.25 LSD (3.92) and an R&P from a donor 4x4 of the same year with a 5.7 engine. Diff is in, waiting on the arrival of the friction modifier. New PS pump is ready to install along with the new hose, used R&P and moog outer tie rods. Already pulled the 60/40 rear seat from a 2004 with headrests and installed that.

Hoping and praying that's all there is to it. This Christmas project has the wife a little unhappy but I'm psyched to finally be back in a 4x4 after a few years of minivans. All in cost on this is under $5k with 92k on the truck. We looked at new trucks for just long enough to see the price tags before deciding on this for plan B.

Assuming the new diff is good to go the first upgrade I'm planning is an Eaton Truetrac locker and perhaps an ox locker for the 8.25 up front.
 

whetrick1

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2016
Posts
1,311
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Ram Year
2016
Engine
5.7 Hemi
Welcome to the forum form LA (Lower Alabama).


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crewchief

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Dec 9, 2016
Posts
47
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Location
Indiana
Ram Year
2008 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT
Engine
6.7L Turbo Diesel
welcome!!! Lots of great knowledge here. Lots of great people too.

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crewchief

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Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2016
Posts
47
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Location
Indiana
Ram Year
2008 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT
Engine
6.7L Turbo Diesel
welcome to the forum. Indian

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1ATony

Senior Member
Preferred Vendor
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Posts
3,245
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Ram Year
2006
Engine
hemi
Good luck with your new truck. It's great to have you here. Thanks for joining

Tony
 
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axshon

Junior Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2016
Posts
10
Reaction score
7
Ram Year
2003
Engine
4.7
Thanks all. The total turn time for this rig was about 6 weeks. I ended up angering the MD inspection gods who decided I needed upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends on both sides. I did most of the work myself but ended up paying my regular mechanic to finish it up while I took the family on vacation. It was a good thing I did because he ended up finding 3 brake lines that were rusted out and in danger of failing.

So here is all I've done so far:
- Upper ball joints/control arms (moog)
- Lower ball joints (moog)
- Tie rod ends (moog)
- Brake line replacement
- Rear differential (3.92 LSD)
- Power steering pump and high pressure line
- Exhaust mounting bracket repairs
- Removal of window tint
- Replacement of both rear tail light modules
- Thermostat (thank goodness that long bolt didn't break)
- Switch to all synthetics (in process)

All in at this point is about $6,000.

I'll do the trans filter and front diff as soon as it's a bit warmer here. The running board mounts are still present but they are rusted and the running boards themselves are gone. I prefer the truck without so the mounts will be removed soon. The rack and pinion unit is leaking a little bit but I have a replacement along with new dampers. That will wait till spring.

My only complaints about the truck right now are the mileage (12-14), the noise (Flowmaster dual exhaust is not really my game), and the condensation in the top end since I'm driving relatively short distances. Otherwise it's fun and has been purring along for a few hundred miles now. My kids still think it's a monster truck and LOVE it.
 
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