Alright guys.. BILSTEINS post your pics!!!

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shadowhawk

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If the center nut on shaft isn’t tight you will get a clunk. Also the washer must be UNDER the top strut cap, not under the nut

I'll recheck the center nut on that side. The washers are correct, that much I know.
 

Gordinho80

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Had a similar clunk on my wife’s car when I replaced her front struts. Turned out to be the center nut tightened 100%. It felt right when I did it, but once I took it off and checked, it needed another half turn. That half turn was enough space for the strut to move ever so slightly and clunk
 

shadowhawk

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I'm positive they are under the top hat. There was nothing but the shock mount under the nut. I'm not real thrilled about pulling it all apart again, but I don't want a clunk. It would be great if I could reach the center nut with the shock installed, rather than pull all that out.
 
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shadowhawk

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so, what about aiming headlights after the install? I'm going to guess I would need to do that now, but again after putting rear spacers in, right?
 

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Yep I had to. My headlights were way to high and blinded incoming traffic and yes do it now then again after you put your rear spacers in.


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shadowhawk

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I'm a bit confused. I put the Bils in, set at 2.8. It was my understanding that I'd lift the truck about 3 inches. Well, the front fender measurement at the wheel did go up by ~3 inches but the height I have at the middle of the truck is about the same. Is the only way for that to change is by a body lift?
 

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Tires is what will give you height with a level kit plus your BL
 

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so if I put 35s on it, then I'll get about an inch, plus BL another 1.5 with the zone lift.
 

shadowhawk

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and that was it! The center nut was loose by 1/2-3/4 of a turn. I was able to just remove the fender liner and get my socket on it with a 6mm allen inside. I could tighten it up nice and snug.

I really appreciate having such a great forum to help straighten things out, even if you guys cost me money! I had a forum very similar to this when I had my Porsche; full of knowledge and good people to share it with. I'm glad I have that for the Ram.
 

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i searched and didnt see so forgive me if i am asking same question but with front and rear bilstiens and front set @ 2.75 and 1" block in rear would I need upper control arms? is this 2.75" somehow different geometry-wise than what spacers will do?

this is the kit i am looking at and then 1" spacers added

h t t p s://bilsteinlifts.com/shop/dodge/09-12-dodge-ram-1500/11-15-ram-1500-4wd-bilstein-5100-0-2-75-front-0-1-rear-lift-shocks/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsv_ljJiA2QIVgiSBCh1bzQ5dEAQYASABEgLW7vD_BwE
 
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Outdoors76

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this is the answer I got from bilstien website but if this is the case what UCA would y'all suggest??

Q I have a 2017 ram 1500 quad 4x4. with this kit and 1" spacer (to level/slight lift) do I also need replacement upper control arms?<<< Back to questions
Asked by David on January 30, 2018 09:36
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  1. UCA's are recommended but not require, the benefit of the UCA's is to
    fix the caster when the vehicle is getting aligned and also helps you a
    lot with articulation on the front end.

    Front shocks are height adjustable - the spacer can be needed only for rear
    Dmitry answered on January 30, 2018 10:29
 

JB1

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Outdoors76

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Thanks for your reply. for whatever reason it would not let me keep https as one so i put spaces.

i was looking at the readylift 4" that comes with them but i dont want 35's i have factory 20" with 33's I think 4" is a bit much maybe for factory wheels and tires. ive had a hard time to find pics of that setup.
 

JB1

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There’s nothing wrong with Bilsteins, just price them out separate if you want to save some $$
 

Outdoors76

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There’s nothing wrong with Bilsteins, just price them out separate if you want to save some $$

i cannot find fronts for any cheaper than $99 each. part # (bilstein 24-187367)

i think just fronts set at 2" is sufficient for my needs.
 

shadowhawk

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Amazon- $95 each, plus free shipping with amazon prime
 

Outdoors76

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the only other thing i was thinking is i was apprehensive about buying upper control arms then if it is not a replaceable ball joint having to replace whole arm at that time.

someone told me that the readylift ones were replaceable but i cannot tell. problem is there are way too many options LOL

all i want to do really is level. just looking for the best economical way to do it and not compromise ride quality or cause unnecessary wear and tear on any parts.
 

shadowhawk

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ucas are NOT required, esp if you're not offroading.
 
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