lowvaluetarget
Senior Member
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2016
- Posts
- 104
- Reaction score
- 44
- Ram Year
- 2014
- Engine
- Hemi 5.7
I had the 'pleasure' of installing my Bilstein's this weekend in the driveway of an apartment. While I was in there, I went ahead and replaced the upper control arms with some Mevotechs. All in all, the install went relatively smoothly.
The initial measurements were 36 1/8th" Front and 39 5/8th" Rear. I set the struts for 2.8" and went ahead and did the rears. I haven't taken after measurements yet, but I love the look. Based on the images I think the rear came up a hair as well.
My truck was originally a Michigan truck (I'm in Texas). The bolts were more rusty than I cared for (especially the strut top plate nut). The truck had 36k when I installed them.
After getting the front driver's side apart, I dicked with the strut for over 2 hours and ended up stripping the 8mm square head (used to counter) on the top of the strut. I ended up taking the strut to a local shop which was able to get everything apart nicely. While they were working on the first strut, I ran home and disassembled the passengers side and had them swap that for me as well. $50 combined.
Reassembling the front end, I was lightly wrenchign down the sway bar link and without much pressure at all, the link bar threads snapped off, nut and all. $100 for parts at the stealership.
Everything else went smoothly and took me about 8 hours with all the extra work and shop travel.
Here are a few things I wish I knew going in.
My truck came out to look perfectly level to me, possibly a slight rake. I plan to put in some TTC springs in the rear for when I pull the boat.
Thanks for all the help in the threads. It definitely made it easier to get this done.
Tires are 275/60/20 BFG KO2's
The initial measurements were 36 1/8th" Front and 39 5/8th" Rear. I set the struts for 2.8" and went ahead and did the rears. I haven't taken after measurements yet, but I love the look. Based on the images I think the rear came up a hair as well.
My truck was originally a Michigan truck (I'm in Texas). The bolts were more rusty than I cared for (especially the strut top plate nut). The truck had 36k when I installed them.
After getting the front driver's side apart, I dicked with the strut for over 2 hours and ended up stripping the 8mm square head (used to counter) on the top of the strut. I ended up taking the strut to a local shop which was able to get everything apart nicely. While they were working on the first strut, I ran home and disassembled the passengers side and had them swap that for me as well. $50 combined.
Reassembling the front end, I was lightly wrenchign down the sway bar link and without much pressure at all, the link bar threads snapped off, nut and all. $100 for parts at the stealership.
Everything else went smoothly and took me about 8 hours with all the extra work and shop travel.
Here are a few things I wish I knew going in.
- Absolutely get an air or electric impact wrench if at all possible. It saved my ass.
- You'll need 2 x 24mm deep sockets for the rear shocks.
- The rear shocks top bolt is tucked TIGHTLY away near bed crossmembers and other verious **** to get in your way. I ended up using a 1/2" socket and a 24mm deep socket snaked up there to counter.
- If you're going to do the strut spring replacement by yourself, an offset wrench is nice (i had it), but a passthrough socket set would be ideal.
My truck came out to look perfectly level to me, possibly a slight rake. I plan to put in some TTC springs in the rear for when I pull the boat.
Thanks for all the help in the threads. It definitely made it easier to get this done.
Tires are 275/60/20 BFG KO2's
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