leveling my 2016 for 35s?

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boywithatruck

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looking into level kits for my 2016 so i can stuff some 35s under there. found the zone 2in kit that comes with upper control arms for like 520 on there web sight.

had 2 questions

1 im amusing there hasnt been any major changes in the '16 upper ball joints so they still require upper control arms with a level to prevent future issues?

2 it says they have replaceable ball joints that you can get at a local parts store which ones are these cause from what i understand our trucks stock ones are serviced with the arm.
 

brandonjansen

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You'll be far better getting Bilsteins to level your truck rather than a spacer kit. They ride better and are easier on your front suspension and don't require new upper A-arms.

Check out the Guide to Leveling linked in my signature as it will give you a ton more information on this and what the best setup is for your truck.
 

xrsman

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This ^

If you still do want to replace the UCA'S go with Mevotech

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crazy jerry

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i must have seen hundreds of trucks that were supposedly leveled but to me it appears the ass end is sagging 2". ford and chevy seem to be the worst but ive seen plenty of dodges this way also. guy down the street has 2 new chevys with lifts and im sure they are ment to be level but you can see from a mile away the space between fender and tire is much larger in the front. how the hell is this considered level ? then when towing a trailer the front is like 6" higher than the back. i dont get it
 

15RamEXP

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I went with the Bilstein and don't regret it. I am doing the same, having Nitto G2 put on this week, will post a picture when they are on. As mentioned above much better choice then a leveling kit.
 

Hazmatt

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To the guys running 35's on stock wheels with bilsteins. I'm assuming your at 2.8 according to Brandon's thread. Did you install anything else for the 35's uca, spacers? what brand etc?. any rubbing or other issues? Thanks!
 
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brandonjansen

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To the guys running 35's on stock wheels with bilsteins. I'm assuming your at 2.8 according to Brandon's thread. Did you install anything else for the 35's uca, spacers? what brand etc?. any rubbing or other issues? Thanks!

The safe bet is that you will need wheel spacers to run 35x12.5 tires on stock rims. Some guys will tell you that you don't need them but that's because they're running small 35x12.5's that actually measure far smaller that Toyo's or Nitto's 35x12.5's. Motorsport Tech's 10mm hub centric spacers are the ones you want to be looking at for that application.

You can generally get away with Bilsteins at 2.1" running 35's on stock wheels with spacers as well because of the narrow stance. It keeps the turning radius of the wheel smaller which reduces the chance of rubbing.

With Bilsteins you don't need new upper A-arms as the Bilsteins keep the suspension travel within OEM specs and doesn't allow it to overextend like spacer type leveling kits do which is where the ball joint pops out. You just want to be careful during install to ensure you don't put too much stress on the upper ball joint and making it pop then. I recommend unbolting the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint to make sure there's no issue with that.
 

Hazmatt

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alright . good to know. I had the truck on some pretty beat up forest service roads today . I definitely need to get the nose up out of the dirt. My hole was puckering a bit crossing some gully. I thought I was gonna rip the lower air dam right off.
 

chipmaker

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Bils @ 2.1, 35s no spacers, stock arms. 20k miles, lots of 4 wheeling.

DSC_5867_zps580ce855.jpg
 

Hazmatt

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looks awesome what tires?
 
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The safe bet is that you will need wheel spacers to run 35x12.5 tires on stock rims. Some guys will tell you that you don't need them but that's because they're running small 35x12.5's that actually measure far smaller that Toyo's or Nitto's 35x12.5's. Motorsport Tech's 10mm hub centric spacers are the ones you want to be looking at for that application.

You can generally get away with Bilsteins at 2.1" running 35's on stock wheels with spacers as well because of the narrow stance. It keeps the turning radius of the wheel smaller which reduces the chance of rubbing.

With Bilsteins you don't need new upper A-arms as the Bilsteins keep the suspension travel within OEM specs and doesn't allow it to overextend like spacer type leveling kits do which is where the ball joint pops out. You just want to be careful during install to ensure you don't put too much stress on the upper ball joint and making it pop then. I recommend unbolting the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint to make sure there's no issue with that.

How do the BFGoodrich KO2s compare with the Toyos or Nittos regarding diameter size?
It seems like to run 35x12.5s on stock wheels or something without a negative offset you need a spacer of 1.5" or larger?
I want to run either Method NVs (+18 offset, unfortunately standards are backordered a couple of months) or my fall back wheel is the XD Addicts (-12 offset) on 35x12.5 BFG KO2s with bilsteins at 2.8 up front.
 

Csanders1992

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How do the BFGoodrich KO2s compare with the Toyos or Nittos regarding diameter size?

It seems like to run 35x12.5s on stock wheels or something without a negative offset you need a spacer of 1.5" or larger?

I want to run either Method NVs (+18 offset, unfortunately standards are backordered a couple of months) or my fall back wheel is the XD Addicts (-12 offset) on 35x12.5 BFG KO2s with bilsteins at 2.8 up front.



Bfgs usually run on the smaller side. Toyos and nittos are usually bigger


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brandonjansen

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How do the BFGoodrich KO2s compare with the Toyos or Nittos regarding diameter size?
It seems like to run 35x12.5s on stock wheels or something without a negative offset you need a spacer of 1.5" or larger?
I want to run either Method NVs (+18 offset, unfortunately standards are backordered a couple of months) or my fall back wheel is the XD Addicts (-12 offset) on 35x12.5 BFG KO2s with bilsteins at 2.8 up front.

BFG's do run smaller than the Toyo's or Nitto's width wise but the overall diameter will be very similar; likely 34.5" or so when mounted.

The width of the tire on a stock wheel is what triggers the need for spacers or not. 35x12.5's only need 10mm (3/8") spacers to clear the upper A-arm on stock wheels. I recommend Motorsport Tech's spacers. Going larger such as 1.5" spacers with only a leveling kit will actually give you more rubbing issues because of the stance being too wide without enough height.

The +18 offset wheels will need spacers to run most 35x12.5 tires. The -12 offset will fit them no problem. There may be a very minor amount of rubbing on the back of the inner fender but that would be it and it could easily be fixed.
 

Bigge2511

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Can anyone tell me what is the best level kit for my ram 1500. It's a 2016 and I was told the rough country are junk. Which is the best way to level it
 
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Bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks will give you a lift upfront to level out the ride. They are adjustable up to 2.8" which will give you a nice level.
 

brandonjansen

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Can anyone tell me what is the best level kit for my ram 1500. It's a 2016 and I was told the rough country are junk. Which is the best way to level it

Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Front Struts are one of the best options available. I'd suggest reading through the Guide to Leveling linked in my signature for more information on why they're better than a spacer type leveling kit such as Rough Country.
 

chipmaker

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looks awesome what tires?

Mastercraft Coursers 35x12.50. They must be a skinny 12.50 since I didn't need spacers like the experts said I would. I may try BFG KOs next, but it may be awhile, these are wearing well, just a little hum on freeway.
 
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