Lifting my truck for Moab - how much with the least power sacrifice?

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SLT617

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I have a 2011 Ram Laramie Longhorn with crew cab, 5'7" bed and the rambox feature. I have a farm and primarily use it to load hay or transport items from the fields. My dad has a 3500 diesel and a 2500 that I use for heavy-duty towing but my ram does just about everything I need.

I also live a few hours from Moab and did Shafer trail last weekend. It was seriously one of the best experiences of my life. The truck handled everything okay, though my side steps scraped 2-3 times on my 40 mile trail ride. Now I'm contemplating getting a lift on my truck but don't want to go overboard. I can get an adjustable ball point hitch for towing but I don't want it so lifted that it becomes impractical for farm use or lose too much horsepower. I also don't plan on driving my truck in aggressive moab climbs where I could flip it or do something stupid.

I basically want to know what is a lift that isn't going to be a lot of work or screw up my truck, but be practical enough to use for work and not lose a lot of power. I know this is going to be based on everyone's opinion/preference but I'd just like to hear some recommendations

Any thoughts from those who have been to Moab as well would be greatly appreciated.
 

PDXRam

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I'd think a 4" BDS lift with added coilovers would do the trick. Most members would probably agree with that. However if you go 4"...might as well go 6". But considering you don't want to lose towing abilities, the first one mentioned would make sense. Icon also makes some legit stuff. Check that out. Good luck!


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Ratket

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Having gone a 6inch lift in the past with 35"s - at the end of the day you are only going to get x amount of clearance from a 35" tire and you will get that much more from a 37" tire. If a 35" tire will fit ur needs and desire than go with a lift that supports a 35" tire. If you want 37"s then then the equation becomes what lift for 37"s- I think the first thing you need to decide on is tire size and not lift size. One more option is trade that 1500 in for a power wagon and you are all set and don't need to worry about off road capabilities and regular life applications cause it will do it all.
 
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SLT617

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Having gone a 6inch lift in the past with 35"s - at the end of the day you are only going to get x amount of clearance from a 35" tire and you will get that much more from a 37" tire. If a 35" tire will fit ur needs and desire than go with a lift that supports a 35" tire. If you want 37"s then then the equation becomes what lift for 37"s- I think the first thing you need to decide on is tire size and not lift size. One more option is trade that 1500 in for a power wagon and you are all set and don't need to worry about off road capabilities and regular life applications cause it will do it all.

You bring up a good point on the tire size... 37's are tempting but I might just go with 35's and a 4 inch lift. No need to trade in my truck just because I got bit by the Moab bug. I like the Laramie Longhorn more than any other model ram offers.
 
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SLT617

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I'd think a 4" BDS lift with added coilovers would do the trick. Most members would probably agree with that. However if you go 4"...might as well go 6". But considering you don't want to lose towing abilities, the first one mentioned would make sense. Icon also makes some legit stuff. Check that out. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I've noticed Combo Lift Kits for a lot cheaper... those are just for lifting the frame but the suspension stays the same, right?

Do I need coilovers for the lift? Those puppies were expensive.
 

14RAM4X4

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for 35s, 4" lift is plenty. There are several ways to get there.

If you're just worried about body damage and don't want to mess with suspension too much, you can go with a 1.5" or 3.0" body lift. Zone makes both. This will raise your rockers for clearance.

You can go 4" lift. Several different companies out there.

to either of these options you can add a simple spring lift to the front with Bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks.

I had a 4" superlift with bilsteins 5100s set at 1.4". It's a fairy economical lift with quality components. The tires are 295/60r20 on stock 20" wheels. I was lucky and didn't have any rub, but those were ATs. MTs with aggressive side walls will likely require a 10mm (1/4") spacer or aftermarket wheels. If you go 35x12.50 you will definitely need less offset & less backspacing.

vqd1fJ.jpg
BOu59q.jpg
 

usaf2006

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Largest tire with least amount of lift! Who doesn't love a good low center of gravity build.
 

14RAM4X4

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Largest tire with least amount of lift! Who doesn't love a good low center of gravity build.

I was contemplating AEV Fenders and 37s on stock suspension.... but dear sweet baby Jesus, they are expensive + the body work.

Instead I went with 3" lift and 37s..... This is a 2500 tho, and you can fit 37s with a level, trimming, and the right backspacing. Hell, people run 35s stock on these things.

YEEip5.jpg
 
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SLT617

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I was contemplating AEV Fenders and 37s on stock suspension.... but dear sweet baby Jesus, they are expensive + the body work.

Instead I went with 3" lift and 37s..... This is a 2500 tho, and you can fit 37s with a level, trimming, and the right backspacing. Hell, people run 35s stock on these things.

YEEip5.jpg

That looks pretty good. How much MPG and power did you lose on that conversion though?
 
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SLT617

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for 35s, 4" lift is plenty. There are several ways to get there.

If you're just worried about body damage and don't want to mess with suspension too much, you can go with a 1.5" or 3.0" body lift. Zone makes both. This will raise your rockers for clearance.

You can go 4" lift. Several different companies out there.

to either of these options you can add a simple spring lift to the front with Bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks.

I had a 4" superlift with bilsteins 5100s set at 1.4". It's a fairy economical lift with quality components. The tires are 295/60r20 on stock 20" wheels. I was lucky and didn't have any rub, but those were ATs. MTs with aggressive side walls will likely require a 10mm (1/4") spacer or aftermarket wheels. If you go 35x12.50 you will definitely need less offset & less backspacing.

vqd1fJ.jpg
BOu59q.jpg

how hard was it to do that lift and how much $$? Did you have handling issues or a death wobble afterward? I think that's the kind of setup I'd go for.
 

Ratket

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1500"s don't get a death wobble- as long as it is all installed correctly and aligned right you are all good
 

14RAM4X4

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how hard was it to do that lift and how much $$? Did you have handling issues or a death wobble afterward? I think that's the kind of setup I'd go for.

I hit a coupon deal and got the lift for just under $1200 delivered with 3" rear springs. I had the Bilsteins already or it's like another $200 or so. Going with a 4" lift is pretty permanent. Most require you to cut the lower control arm mounts. You install a diff drop cradle, front drive shaft spacer, new steering knuckles, etc. It's pretty involved. I would say a weekends worth of work if you have all the right tools and an extra set of hands.

I had no issues afterwards. Other than the standard suspension creeks and groans when coming to a stop or taking some turns on uneven surfaces. But that's been the norm on every lift I've ever had... from 84 chevy blazer, 03 f150, 08 Jeep Wrangler Unl, Ram 1500, and even on my 2500 now.

Whatever you decide, post up some pics.


btw, if you're doing some good off roading and want some rocker protection, the best looking one I found with the highest ground clearance were Randy Ellis Designs. They are $840 and you can upgrade them with a step.

I'm still debating getting them, but I don't offroad anymore so it'd be more cosmetic than functional....
 

HTX

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I have the RC 3" lift. I was able to fit 35" Terra Grapplers under the truck as well. Its only $500 and installed in 4 hours. No cutting, drilling, or any of that. My axel ground clearance increased by an inch, my front bumper increased by 4.5 rear bumper 1.75, and the center-high by 3.

Understand though, this lift is a combination of spacers and UCA's; it utilizes stock suspension components. Meaning that it will not add any performance gains (other than ground clearance) such as better handling or longer travel like some of the other $2000-$3000 4" kits will do. I only bring this up because I have no idea what you're hoping to accomplish on the trails.
 

Daldridge

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I am shocked that nobody has corrected on him on that you don't lose horsepower from lifting.
 

Ratket

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Maybe he's gonna run stick tire size.. so he wouldn't loose horse power. He's not gonna loose that much going from factory to 35"s. If he's got the 8 speed he prolly won't even notice it much. Not like he's racing from from one side of the farm to the other lol. Most who have lifted are still happy with the power they have on tap. Now 37"s is a different story lol
 

Daldridge

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Maybe he's gonna run stick tire size.. so he wouldn't loose horse power. He's not gonna loose that much going from factory to 35"s. If he's got the 8 speed he prolly won't even notice it much. Not like he's racing from from one side of the farm to the other lol. Most who have lifted are still happy with the power they have on tap. Now 37"s is a different story lol

Why is this one of the most common misconceptions with lifting a vehicle? Your engine does not make less power because you lifted your vehicle. Different dynamics and aspects of the vehicle change, but the amount of torque and horsepower your engine is producing is not affected by anything related to the actual lifting of a vehicle and running a larger tire. Does it present a bigger load to the engine? Yes, but the engine still produces the same amount of power.
 

Ratket

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...Going from a " stock size tire like 31"s to a 37 " will affect the amount of power put to the ground though. I've seen a truck dunno with 35"s.. the. Dyno with a challenger take off and the difference was about 75hp.
Sorry but only hp Tq ratings I care about are at the wheels- because once I take possession of a vehicle - that's the only way I can measure power.
 

BigBlackHorn

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for 35s, 4" lift is plenty. There are several ways to get there.



If you're just worried about body damage and don't want to mess with suspension too much, you can go with a 1.5" or 3.0" body lift. Zone makes both. This will raise your rockers for clearance.



You can go 4" lift. Several different companies out there.



to either of these options you can add a simple spring lift to the front with Bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks.



I had a 4" superlift with bilsteins 5100s set at 1.4". It's a fairy economical lift with quality components. The tires are 295/60r20 on stock 20" wheels. I was lucky and didn't have any rub, but those were ATs. MTs with aggressive side walls will likely require a 10mm (1/4") spacer or aftermarket wheels. If you go 35x12.50 you will definitely need less offset & less backspacing.



vqd1fJ.jpg

BOu59q.jpg



The black ram you posted pictures of, how much lift is that and what size tires?
That's a real clean truck and looks about where I want mine to be.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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SLT617

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I have the RC 3" lift. I was able to fit 35" Terra Grapplers under the truck as well. Its only $500 and installed in 4 hours. No cutting, drilling, or any of that. My axel ground clearance increased by an inch, my front bumper increased by 4.5 rear bumper 1.75, and the center-high by 3.

Understand though, this lift is a combination of spacers and UCA's; it utilizes stock suspension components. Meaning that it will not add any performance gains (other than ground clearance) such as better handling or longer travel like some of the other $2000-$3000 4" kits will do. I only bring this up because I have no idea what you're hoping to accomplish on the trails.

Yeah, after thinking about this more, I'm not sure I want to get a suspension lift and then get buyers remorse knowing that I can't go back to stock. Plus it can bring in more suspension problems and prematurely wear the engine and other components.

My truck handled the Moab trails pretty well and i only had my side rails skid a few times, other than that it was fine. I also don't plan on doing crazy climbs and run the risk of rolling it. An RC 3" leveling kit will give me just a little bit more clearance and make the ride look a lot better. Leveling kits don't change the mpg much either from what I've read, don't mess with suspension as much, and you can always go back.

I'll probably go to 35s but stock doesn't look bad with a leveling kit either. I think I'll level it first and drive with stock for a bit and if I feel like it, I'll jump to 35s.
 
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