Steen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2013
- Posts
- 112
- Reaction score
- 20
- Location
- Weeki Wachee
- Ram Year
- 2016 Big Horn Crew Cab 1500
- Engine
- Hemi 5.7
Guys,
Finished up yesterday installing the Maxtrac 7" Lift for the 2WD on my 2016 Big Horn and just wanted to first and foremost let anyone contemplating this lift to go for it! The ride with the Bilstein's to me is even more comfortable than stock. I was pleasantly surprised with the ride and even more so with the looks.
I'm not going to post another thread on "How To Install". Maxtrac and Auto Customs did a pretty good job on the videos. Between the both of them and common suspension knowledge, you can literally perform the job without reading a single piece of instructions. The Auto Customs video is a tad superior to the Maxtrac video in my opinion. The video links are listed below for reference:
Maxtrac Installation Video
Auto Customs Installation Video
The purpose of this thread is to communicate to anyone that wants to perform this job themselves and save anywhere from $700-$1000 in labor. I wanted to share the tools that I picked up before hand to make the job easier and some even 100% necessary and areas of concern during the install to save you some time.
Here are the items that weren't found in my home garage before I tackled the job, I'm not saying that you absolutely HAVE to have these items.. but if you want to be efficient and safe.. the cost to me was minimal:
Here are some of the obstacles you will face when installing the kit. First, it's really a 2-man job. Get someone to help you for the duration of the install. It not only makes the job easier, but there will be someone there to call 911 if the truck falls on you!! LOL!
Rear Top Shock Bolts:The only thing I didn't have when I started was the stubby 21mm. I had (2) full length wrenches, so I just cut one in half with my metal chop saw. They are also hard to find. No Auto Parts store will have them.. Sears might but didn't check. Best bet is to order online beforehand. A stubby 3/8" rachet with a 21mm shallow well socket will work on the drivers side, but it will not on the passenger side. Save yourself the headache and get the stubby wrench or cut a 21mm in half and use the box end.
Spring Compressors: I read different reviews online and even speaking with Maxtrac directly about this very topic. Some say you needed them, Maxtrac said I didn't. I had a set of external spring compressors, but just to be on the safe side I bought a set of internal compressors and I'm glad I did. On the front of the truck, no matter how much you pivot the Lower Control Arm, the new springs will NEVER seat correctly due to the angle of the LCA. I had to use the Internal Spring Compressor to get these installed. Made the job painless. On the rear, if you are installing the springs without the Maxtrac 1.5" spacer, you could do it without spring compressors. WITH the spacer, you are going to need the external spring compressors.. not much compression.. but you will need it.
Sway Bar End Link:The nut on the Sway Bar End link could be challenging for some without a quality impact wrench. One of mine is rated at 700Ft Lbs so it not only hits hard, but it spins FAST. The design is that this nut is recessed up in the arm, so it's hard to get a 18mm wrench on the nut at all, let alone hold the other end with a 8mm to keep it from spinning. See pic below:
The average DIY'er might fight this all day. The best thing to do is to use a quality impact wrench and hit it at the highest speed in short intervals after soaking it with PB Blaster. It will eventually come all the way out.
Wheel Hub:Make sure then when you are reinstalling the hub onto the new Maxtrac Spindle, that you have the ABS hole in the correct orientation which is the top/front. Pay attention to the way it was before removed from the stock spindle. I forgot about this while reinstalling and had to remove and redo.
Track Bar Drop Down Bracket: This was by far the biggest pain in the ass on the whole job. First and foremost, I read someone installing this kit saying that you don't need to remove the exhaust. Trust me!.. remove the exhaust! It's one bolt! Also don't forget to lower the rear end as far as it will go to give you more room. Getting the holes lined up and drilled was the most time consuming part of the entire job. I bought brand new Cobalt Drill bits for this and it still took a while. Take your time and do it right the first time.
Bilstein Shocks: I'm not sure about the Maxtrac Shocks, but the Bilsteins will have to have the crush sleeves installed and they come with two sets for the rear. Make sure you install the bigger inside diameter of the two or you will not be able to get the stock bolts through the sleeves. You can toss the Bilsteins sleeves (smaller ones). ALSO.. very important that shock body down on all four. I read about a guy who had his installed at a shop and was disappointed on how bouncy the rear was, come to find out the shop installed his rear shocks upside down! LOL. The reason whey they did, is because when installed correctly, the Bilstein logo on the shocks will be upside down. If you are not going to use an Arbor Press, you will probably have to remove the rubber sleeve, install the crush sleeve into the rubber sleeve and then reinstall the complete unit back into the shock. The Arbor Press eliminates those extra steps and can install the crush sleeves right into the shocks.
Hope this helps anyone looking to do the install! Don't forget the beer!!!
Before and After:
Finished up yesterday installing the Maxtrac 7" Lift for the 2WD on my 2016 Big Horn and just wanted to first and foremost let anyone contemplating this lift to go for it! The ride with the Bilstein's to me is even more comfortable than stock. I was pleasantly surprised with the ride and even more so with the looks.
I'm not going to post another thread on "How To Install". Maxtrac and Auto Customs did a pretty good job on the videos. Between the both of them and common suspension knowledge, you can literally perform the job without reading a single piece of instructions. The Auto Customs video is a tad superior to the Maxtrac video in my opinion. The video links are listed below for reference:
Maxtrac Installation Video
Auto Customs Installation Video
The purpose of this thread is to communicate to anyone that wants to perform this job themselves and save anywhere from $700-$1000 in labor. I wanted to share the tools that I picked up before hand to make the job easier and some even 100% necessary and areas of concern during the install to save you some time.
Here are the items that weren't found in my home garage before I tackled the job, I'm not saying that you absolutely HAVE to have these items.. but if you want to be efficient and safe.. the cost to me was minimal:
- 1/2 Arbor Press: Makes it easier to press the crush sleeves into the new shocks.
- 48" Wrecking Bar: Makes lowering the lower control arm to remove and reinstall springs easier.
- 6Ton Jack Stands: Not only does (1) stand equal the necessary 3Ton for our trucks, but you also will need the height. Never buy a box that says "3 Ton Jack Stands" and think you will be ok. (1) stand would 1.5Ton which is not enough the truck.
- Wheel Chocks: To chock the front wheels when lifting the rear. Safety First!!
- 21mm Stubby & Full length Combination Wrenches: The Stubby wrench is an absolute necessity in removing the rear top shock bolts.
Here are some of the obstacles you will face when installing the kit. First, it's really a 2-man job. Get someone to help you for the duration of the install. It not only makes the job easier, but there will be someone there to call 911 if the truck falls on you!! LOL!
Rear Top Shock Bolts:The only thing I didn't have when I started was the stubby 21mm. I had (2) full length wrenches, so I just cut one in half with my metal chop saw. They are also hard to find. No Auto Parts store will have them.. Sears might but didn't check. Best bet is to order online beforehand. A stubby 3/8" rachet with a 21mm shallow well socket will work on the drivers side, but it will not on the passenger side. Save yourself the headache and get the stubby wrench or cut a 21mm in half and use the box end.
Spring Compressors: I read different reviews online and even speaking with Maxtrac directly about this very topic. Some say you needed them, Maxtrac said I didn't. I had a set of external spring compressors, but just to be on the safe side I bought a set of internal compressors and I'm glad I did. On the front of the truck, no matter how much you pivot the Lower Control Arm, the new springs will NEVER seat correctly due to the angle of the LCA. I had to use the Internal Spring Compressor to get these installed. Made the job painless. On the rear, if you are installing the springs without the Maxtrac 1.5" spacer, you could do it without spring compressors. WITH the spacer, you are going to need the external spring compressors.. not much compression.. but you will need it.
Sway Bar End Link:The nut on the Sway Bar End link could be challenging for some without a quality impact wrench. One of mine is rated at 700Ft Lbs so it not only hits hard, but it spins FAST. The design is that this nut is recessed up in the arm, so it's hard to get a 18mm wrench on the nut at all, let alone hold the other end with a 8mm to keep it from spinning. See pic below:
The average DIY'er might fight this all day. The best thing to do is to use a quality impact wrench and hit it at the highest speed in short intervals after soaking it with PB Blaster. It will eventually come all the way out.
Wheel Hub:Make sure then when you are reinstalling the hub onto the new Maxtrac Spindle, that you have the ABS hole in the correct orientation which is the top/front. Pay attention to the way it was before removed from the stock spindle. I forgot about this while reinstalling and had to remove and redo.
Track Bar Drop Down Bracket: This was by far the biggest pain in the ass on the whole job. First and foremost, I read someone installing this kit saying that you don't need to remove the exhaust. Trust me!.. remove the exhaust! It's one bolt! Also don't forget to lower the rear end as far as it will go to give you more room. Getting the holes lined up and drilled was the most time consuming part of the entire job. I bought brand new Cobalt Drill bits for this and it still took a while. Take your time and do it right the first time.
Bilstein Shocks: I'm not sure about the Maxtrac Shocks, but the Bilsteins will have to have the crush sleeves installed and they come with two sets for the rear. Make sure you install the bigger inside diameter of the two or you will not be able to get the stock bolts through the sleeves. You can toss the Bilsteins sleeves (smaller ones). ALSO.. very important that shock body down on all four. I read about a guy who had his installed at a shop and was disappointed on how bouncy the rear was, come to find out the shop installed his rear shocks upside down! LOL. The reason whey they did, is because when installed correctly, the Bilstein logo on the shocks will be upside down. If you are not going to use an Arbor Press, you will probably have to remove the rubber sleeve, install the crush sleeve into the rubber sleeve and then reinstall the complete unit back into the shock. The Arbor Press eliminates those extra steps and can install the crush sleeves right into the shocks.
Hope this helps anyone looking to do the install! Don't forget the beer!!!
Before and After:
Last edited:
