Recs? Making a 17 Tradesman RCSB 4x4 trail ready

Waiting on delivery of a 2017 Tradesman 1500 4x4 reg cab short box (120" wheelbase).

This may not be possible but I have to ask. Many of these questions have been answered for other cab/bed configs but the Reg Cab Short Bed is a relatively rare combo so I'm compelled to ask.

Coming from a Jeep Rubicon 2-door, had tons of fun on the Class 6 roads but must have a pickup but would love to do some wheeling.

I don't expect to make this truck as capable as a short wheelbase Rubicon on the trails but I'm seeking recommendations on how to make it trail friendly.

The rig:
. 2017 Tradesman 1500 4x4 Reg Cab, Short Box
. 8HP70 8-speed auto trans (no manual )
. 17-inch steelies, 265/70R17 street tires
. 5.7L V8 Hemi
. 3.92 axles
. Anti-spin differential rear axle
. Factory trailer tow setup (mirrors, brake control)

The goal:
. Wheeling on Class 6 trails which were rated as (for Jeeps) stock-friendly or moderate. No hard-core wheeling.
. More clearance and articulation than stock
. Daily-driver friendly. This is my only vehicle.
. Able/safe to tow ~4K lb on street
. More aggressive tire tread (it will see mud, snow and sand even in non-wheeling use)

Philosophies:
. Prefer do it right, do it once, vs. save a few bucks
. prefer function over flash/bling. Don't need an aggressive/blingy truck.
. keep it simple and functional

After reading the stickies and many threads I'm still not sure how much lift can be done before running into issues with parts wear due to height/angles (such as driveshaft, joints, steering components, ball joints, etc.). I'd rather pay more for a "proper" kit that avoids this as much as possible but not sure there is such a thing. Is there?

Love the BFG M/T T/A KM 32" tires that were on the jeep but for wheeling the lower-clearance Ram 1500 I'm thinking might need something bigger (35"). While the BFG is more aggressive it's almost the same size as the stock 265/70R17 (31.6" vs 32").

Cancel that order and get a power wagon lol-

Joking - From the sounds of it you got the 3 most important fun factors-
Hemi
8speed
392"s-
Some with 1/2 ton experience will chime in. Best of luck!! Keep us updated.

On a side. Note Aev launched a Kit -
I know I saw it for a 3/4-1Ton- I didn't look to see if there was a 1/2 ton kit - Lemme check - Nope - I'm not sure who makes "crawler type suspension- I would think a "Long travel" kit would work better than just a regular lift-
Check cjc off road-

Depends on exactly what you want for suspension? Quick responsiveness for rocks or a nice soft ride for woodsy trails. I'm looking at an icon lift. Looks good for woodsy in my opinion nice soft ride. Good up to 3" still with recommended uca change. Good for daily. Or you can go big with a 4 or 6" still good for daily. Some kits people seem to like better than others. Or you can go pure performance (that's the brand)... but that's probably overkill.


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strangely I have had 3 Sport rcsb 4x4 3:92 Hemi's 2010, 2012, 2014 and the last rcsb 15 R/T. I guess it depends were you reside, have fun with your build and happy trails literally.

If you will be hitting the trails frequently I'd personally get at least a 4" lift, zone or rough country or superlift. Some wheels of choice, I'm sure your aware of the benefits 17s would offer over something bigger for off-road purposes. And then throw on some 35s


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The ifs is what will limit majority of what you're lift options are. I came from a LJ Rubicon previously and couldn't go to an ifs as I just don't like the ride when they're lifted and leveled so I went to a 2500. My suggestion go with a quality lift like Icon to gain travel but without using drop brackets as that'll just hinder your ground clearance. Having a taller lift doesn't mean ground clearance is gained, simply because to maintain driveline angles they drop the front diff. A nice Icon lift will suit your needs and allow you to run a 35 comfortably while gaining ground clearance. Tires id suggest Ridge Grapplers or Toyo RTs. They're a nice dual purpose tire.

If I could go back to my build-instead of the 4 inch zone w/ bilsteins.

I am now looking at upgrading to fox 2.5 coilovers and a body lift. I think 4 with 2.1 Bilsteins is good but I wish I went higher and just spent the money on the 2.5 coilovers. My goal is to create a slightly modified desert racer (45-85 mph on sandy wash-down roads without the vibrations)/ offroad build

Id do BDS 6 Inch lift fox 2.5 coilovers with Reservoirs, Upgrade UCAs

37s- withe 3.92 gears- Id get a hemifever tune or Jay Greene tune.

Side steps- Powersteps with switch on dash to shut off if traveling in water(I love mine)

CAI- with cover SB or Air raid. I have the KN but I fear sucking in water with the open design

Muffler just for sound/fun- 14 inch Magnaflow or similar

Bumper upgrade- Prerunner style to better front end clearance. I am looking at the vengeance now.

Andrew09HEMI said:

The ifs is what will limit majority of what you're lift options are. I came from a LJ Rubicon previously and couldn't go to an ifs as I just don't like the ride when they're lifted and leveled so I went to a 2500. My suggestion go with a quality lift like Icon to gain travel but without using drop brackets as that'll just hinder your ground clearance. Having a taller lift doesn't mean ground clearance is gained, simply because to maintain driveline angles they drop the front diff. A nice Icon lift will suit your needs and allow you to run a 35 comfortably while gaining ground clearance. Tires id suggest Ridge Grapplers or Toyo RTs. They're a nice dual purpose tire.

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Gaining ground clearance at the frame is achieved with the lift. It's the same thing with jeep or 2500. Bigger tires is the only way to achieve lift at the axle, even on a ifs. If you'll be using 4x4 a lot off-road you want the best cv angles possible


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Csanders1992 said:

Gaining ground clearance at the frame is achieved with the lift. It's the same thing with jeep or 2500. Bigger tires is the only way to achieve lift at the axle, even on a ifs. If you'll be using 4x4 a lot off-road you want the best cv angles possible


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The frame is hardly a point of concern on these trucks, not neearly as much as the front diff assembly since that is the lowest point on a 1500 and even a 2500. Which is my point about a lift like RC or Zone, you'll hit that front diff cross member constantly. That's why in my opinion a mild ifs lift would be best for what he describes. The frame could be 10 ft off the ground but the diffs are the lowest point which is more important

I've done a **** ton of wheeling in Jeeps. It's more important to have the frame as low as possible while gaining the most ground clearance on the rest of low hanging parts like diffs, transmissions and transfer cases.

Andrew09HEMI said:

The frame is hardly a point of concern on these trucks, not neearly as much as the front diff assembly since that is the lowest point on a 1500 and even a 2500. Which is my point about a lift like RC or Zone, you'll hit that front diff cross member constantly. That's why in my opinion a mild ifs lift would be best for what he describes. The frame could be 10 ft off the ground but the diffs are the lowest point which is more important

I've done a **** ton of wheeling in Jeeps. It's more important to have the frame as low as possible while gaining the most ground clearance on the rest of low hanging parts like diffs, transmissions and transfer cases.

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Jeeps are totally different. With a jeep it's best to keep center of gravity low. But on a truck with longer wheel base high centering becomes a major concern. Also a trucks approach and departure angles are less than a jeeps.
I have done a lot of wheeling in trucks, both with leveling kits and with real lifts. I'll take the real lift every single time in the woods


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Nothing wrong with your preference and if he were a long wheel base truck I'd be inclined to agree, but he's a regular cab short box is a few inches longer than a JKU so I can't see needing a huge lift. Also he mentioned mild trails, getting high centered isn't an issue for what he's describing. We can agree to disagree on our preferences I guess cause there's no right or wrong here

Just traded in a 2015 express reg cab short bed 4x4 3.92 and anti slip pro comp 6" and 35 toyo mts no new uca's had about a inch and half rake hardly noticeable on the reg cab. Wheeled jeep trails in Az with it with no problems. Was able to go most places my son could in his Jku sport. Gas mileage is not the greatest got 12 -13 mostly in town driving. Ride wasn't bad on the street little rough on the trails air down

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Ratket said:

Cancel that order and get a power wagon lol

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Yeah considered it! But I'm downsizing from a 2500 Cummins, so can't justify another 3/4 ton, and as great as the Power Wagon seems, the long wheel base just doesn't work for me (if Power Wagon was available in a reg cab short bed, I'd be right on it, problem solved! As long as they had a manual tranny...)

Thanks for the AEV/CJC recs, will check them out.

jgallo2448 said:

Just traded in a 2015 express reg cab short bed 4x4 3.92 and anti slip pro comp 6" and 35 toyo mts no new uca's had about a inch and half rake hardly noticeable on the reg cab. Wheeled jeep trails in Az with it with no problems. Was able to go most places my son could in his Jku sport. Gas mileage is not the greatest got 12 -13 mostly in town driving. Ride wasn't bad on the street little rough on the trails air down

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This all sounds SO good. Okay except 12-13 mpg, ha.

A lot of great responses here, thanks I appreciate it. Coming from a Rubicon and a 2500 Cummins this is a big downgrade for me but I'm hopeful (and confident) that the Reg Cab Short Bed Hemi 3.92 configuration is a great starting point. I'll keep it stock and do lots of research until I'm ready.

Looking forward to the build! I love reg cab short boxs! Also to note, the power wagon did come in a regular cab medium box when they first came out but they're hard to come by!