Changing my differential fluid

I'm trying to order my differential oil and am having trouble making sure I'm buying the right thing.

Info: 2012 Ram 1500 4x4, lifted with 35's. i have no owners manual because I bought it slightly used so I'm not 100% sure what it recommends. I tow and haul a descent amount and run my tractor to the mountains and back once a month or so, about 180 miles each way. So all that said I need the best thing for my differential that I can get.

I'm looking at Redline 75w140
Other than that I'm not sure what I should buy for the antislip. Anything else I need to know would be great. I can try and measure how much I'm getting out and replace the same amount. I plan on looking up the specs online next but I figured I'd get your advice too. Thanks in advance!

You'll probably get a different answer from everyone who posts to this thread, but this is what I'd recommend...
AMSOIL Severe Gear® 75W-140

owners manual

Can't get anything better then (PAG) ester based fluids in difs, IE Redline. I believe they call for different weights in front then back, check your manual.

95% you wont need anti slip, you only put that it if you have shudder or chatter, I still have yet to hear anyone needing it.

Gear fluids machinelube.

From Link,

Approximate oil change intervals of gear oils at an operating temperature of 176°F (80°C) are:

Mineral oil: 5,000 operating hours
SHC oil: 15,000 operating hours (extension factor 3)
PAG oil: 25,000 operating hours (extension factor 5)

Synthetic oils have a lower friction coefficient than mineral oils in a gearbox and a more favorable viscosity-temperature relationship. This generally permits the use of synthetics at lower viscosity grades and also offers the possibility of reduced oil temperature during operation. In such cases, the life extension factors for oil change intervals of synthetic oils are longer than the values stated above, which refer to identical oil temperature. The following comparison of test results illustrates this advantage. Three lubricants were tested in a splash lubricated worm gear test rig.

Redline = PAG. Only Redline and Motul are committed to esters enough to call themselves ester based fluids. Read the bottom part, your redline fluid change can even last longer then a factor of 5 over mineral oils. Do you have a thermo gun? I would take an operating temp with your factory oil before changing, and then later with your redline change.

Page 676 owners manual, front dif 75w90, back 75w140.

The owners manual says add anti slip, but they aren't considering you will be putting ester based Redline. So likely you will not need it, read the instructions on redlines anti slip, too much slip is bad as well, so they don't want you to add it unless there is chatter, and then and only then add 1 ounce at a time until chatter disappears.

I would catch what I can in an oil container and pour it in a gallon jug, pretty safe way to see what goes back. Ask in Syn thread, I know a couple guys have changed theirs lately, one was a 2012, h395.

Be careful, I believe you will want the straight gl-5 redline gear oil, not the NS gl-5. I would email redline and just get a opinion on which of their oils you should use.


.

I used Redline and I posted up my differential fluid change ....I'll post up a link here as there's a good amount of discussion on the differentials there .



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Here's a link to my differential oil change .


http://www.ramforum.com/showthread.php?p=1276334

Hope this helps !

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Check this out from that machinelube link, man, lol. Esters keep the metal cooler by a lot, plus can last 31 times longer, lol. Why would anyone use anything but esters in gears I have no idea!

The test records show the following oil sump temperatures after 300 operating hours:

Mineral oil: 230°F (110°C)
SHC: 194°F (90°C)
PAG: 167°F (75°C)

The life extension factors of synthetic oils as compared to mineral oil are as follows:

Mineral oil = 1
SHC = 9.5 times longer
PAG = 31 times longer

RLK you used in rear dif?

75W140 GL-5 Gear Oil

not

75W140 NS GL-5 Gear Oil

correct? and you didn't need or add anti slip?

This is what I used in my rear end with the Anti-spin , and I needed NO friction modifiers in mine .



These are screenshots from the link I posted above of my differential oil change .

Hope this helps !

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If these arn't readable , click on my link above , I believe the screenshots water down the image .

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Thanks guys! RLK I did read your post and replys. Thanks for all the help guys. I guess I was more confused over the antislip. I was told by everyone that I absolutely needed it, including my brother in law that had his rear end blow up. The shop where he took it said that having the antislip added to the oil could have saved his differential.

i would use redline myself, but if i couldn't get it, i would use OEM.

Sorry, I'm only doing rear diff at the moment. Front don't get used near as much. Will probably do that over the winter when I have a little more time.

I think I'll do the Redline. Sounds like good stuff. I think I'll just order it on Amazon tonight. I'll post on how it goes.

RLK- where did you get the pump for the gallon jug? That looks handy.

Fishman1113 said:

I think I'll do the Redline. Sounds like good stuff. I think I'll just order it on Amazon tonight. I'll post on how it goes.

RLK- where did you get the pump for the gallon jug? That looks handy.

Click to expand...

I order my Redline products from Jegs.com , seems to be competitive prices.
As far as the pump , I picked it up at Advanced Auto Parts & it works like a champ !

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R.L.K. said:

Here's a link to my differential oil change .


Differential oil change - DODGE RAM FORUM - Dodge Truck Forums

Hope this helps !

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Click to expand...

Thanks for that.... used your write-up as a guide when I changed mine.

I'll ask here too, RLK how much Redline did you use in your rear diff change?


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So I picked up this block magnet. Hoping that it works. I have a wand magnet that I will swab out as much as I can once it drains. Looking forward to seeing how it goes.




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Fishman1113 said:

So I picked up this block magnet. Hoping that it works. I have a wand magnet that I will swab out as much as I can once it drains. Looking forward to seeing how it goes.




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Click to expand...

About 2.5 qts in the rear , and a bit under 2qts in the front .

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