Fender Flare left some marks. (Help)

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Orion

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Just took off my fender flares today, they left some marks around where the flare use to sit, they aren't super deep but noticeable. Is there any way I can get rid of these marks? I'd really had to have screwed up my paint with these. I used some Scratch Remover buffing stuff and it made the marks lighter but they didnt go away completely, I haven't had the flares on that long.​
 

Ferro

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You should be able to buff that out.
 

WillO

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You should be able to buff that out.



Yeah looks to me as though it's just rubbed the clear coat. Try some compound on it

Which flares did you have and did they have the rubber lip on them?
.
 
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Orion

Orion

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Yeah looks to me as though it's just rubbed the clear coat. Try some compound on it

Which flares did you have and did they have the rubber lip on them?
.

They were some off amazon, E-Autogrill, they did but they still left those marks. What kinda compound you recommend?
 

WillO

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They were some off amazon, E-Autogrill, they did but they still left those marks. What kinda compound you recommend?



I have used meguiars perfect compound with success in the past, but any good compound should be good.

I always do the rubbing of the compound with a cotton cloth (assures that the compound cuts into the clear coat rather than absorbing into a towel) then buff off with microfiber

I have the same color truck as yours and managed to make some deep cat scratches disappear, I made the cats disappear too not too long after.
 

The Hulk

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You may be able to get it out. I used some clear vinyl under my flares to prevent this happening.

You could try some rubbing compound. A body shop might be the easiest way to make it look better, they will let you know your options.
 
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Orion

Orion

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You may be able to get it out. I used some clear vinyl under my flares to prevent this happening.

You could try some rubbing compound. A body shop might be the easiest way to make it look better, they will let you know your options.

Heres some better pics i took this morning. The stuff i used last night made it a little better.

https://imgur.com/a/u81JX
 
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Orion

Orion

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Bump -- any help appreciated.

Pictures for context:

hoGzFjq.jpg
P9WjTj0.jpg
 

Alaskanpeeps

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I've had great luck with scratch doctor. And ur going to need a high speed buffer. Elbow grease Isn't going to get that out. IMO good luck


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Orion

Orion

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I've had great luck with scratch doctor. And ur going to need a high speed buffer. Elbow grease Isn't going to get that out. IMO good luck


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I just called it quits, lined off the scratch with 3m tape so it wont cut any deeper. Oh well.
 

XXSNOTRODXX

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Older post I know. But figured I would give my .02 . That looks like a SUPER easy buff job and I wouldn't even be worried about it. When the time comes to tackle it this is what I would do. If they are just surface scratches (which they look to be) I would use a 3000 grit trizact 3M pad. Soak it in a bowl of water with a couple drops of rubbing alcohol and a drop or 2 of dish soap for a few minutes. wet the area you want to work on. lightly sand on it with the 3M pad for a few seconds and then squeegee off any excess water. You should be able to get an idea of the uniformity of the surface and know if you need to sand more/ how much effort is required. It is really hard to sand to much with the technique, you would have to be pushing really hard or sanding for 10 minutes straight or grinding on a body line to burn through your clear coat. People just get scared of the idea of doing it themselves and hearing sand/paint in the same sentence will send them for the hills lol.

After that you can move on to buffing...small areas you can get away with by hand but if you get into a big area a variable speed buffer will definitely make the job go faster and easier. If you do by hand use a microfiber towel. If you buff use a light cut foam egg carton pad. Buff at around 2000-2400 rpm's for your initial cut. Then when you see the shine coming on (only takes a couple of pass's when using my trizact method) you can drop the rpm's down to around 1200 and do a few slower lighter passes.

As for rubbing compound I love using the Meguiars products!. I prefer their tan bottled Mirror glaze products. very little goes a very long way!. Once you are done I would follow it up with a rinse and a nice Meguiars paste wax and I guarantee your paint will look better than brand new!.

It might sound like a big chore but I have done TONS of jobs with this exact method have never had 1 complaint. And I must be doing something right since my 72 Plymouth Duster I restored and did this way landed in Mopar Muscle Magazine. With the job your are looking at doing I could typically do all 4 wheel wells from start to finish in about a half hour. So like I said, It sounds like a big job but it really isnt that bad.

Sorry for the long winded response but I figure maybe you would still be interested in some info or maybe someone else that stumbles across this thread.
 

XXSNOTRODXX

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Proof is in the pudding. some before and after pictures of the orange peel I had to contend with on the entire car and what it looked like after wet sanding/buffing
 

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