2016 50k miles starter or battery issues

I have a 2016 with 50k miles.
Last weekend I was working in flower beds and played the radio in the truck while I was doing it, truck wouldn't crank so it was no big deal. Neighbor jumped me.

This week I have noticed that at random times when starting the truck the battery sounded weak. Like it just took a little longer than normal to start.

This evening the truck wouldn't start. I figured it was the battery. Got it started drove to AutoZone pulled the battery. Battery tests good.

Put the battery in the truck, test the whole system and it says starter is bad.

1. Am I correct the starter isn't covered under powertrain warranty?
2. How much of a PITA is this gonna be to change on a 4x4?

TIA

Also, without the truck running you can't shift it in neutral to push it outta the way to get a vehicle to jump it! UGHH technology

Would be quite a coincidence if the starter went out the same time you drained your battery. I would think the battery is the issue regardless of the test.

huntergreen said:

Would be quite a coincidence if the starter went out the same time you drained your battery. I would think the battery is the issue regardless of the test.

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Exactly what I am thinking. Then the cheapest battery autozone had was $199 dollars so it gave me pause.

reb0957 said:

I have a 2016 with 50k miles.
Last weekend I was working in flower beds and played the radio in the truck while I was doing it, truck wouldn't crank so it was no big deal. Neighbor jumped me.

This week I have noticed that at random times when starting the truck the battery sounded weak. Like it just took a little longer than normal to start.

This evening the truck wouldn't start. I figured it was the battery. Got it started drove to AutoZone pulled the battery. Battery tests good.

Put the battery in the truck, test the whole system and it says starter is bad.

1. Am I correct the starter isn't covered under powertrain warranty?
2. How much of a PITA is this gonna be to change on a 4x4?

TIA

Also, without the truck running you can't shift it in neutral to push it outta the way to get a vehicle to jump it! UGHH technology

Click to expand...

FYI, you can pop the tranny into neutral by popping the cover just above the emergency brake lever ( not the pedal ). There is a strap you pull and it puts the tranny into neutral.

Google it for pics / better visuals than what i just gave you.

noupf said:

FYI, you can pop the tranny into neutral by popping the cover just above the emergency brake lever ( not the pedal ). There is a strap you pull and it puts the tranny into neutral.

Google it for pics / better visuals than what i just gave you.

Click to expand...

Thanks I didn't find that in the owners manual

I'm thinking battery. I had the same issue. Played the stereo longer than I should have. Had to jump start and after that, it would not have the juice to even crank over. About 2 1/2 year old oem battery. No symptoms of issues prior and after a 75 mile drive for recharge, no worky! But, autozone did confirm a dead cell. I'm no expert here, but the last time I had a failed starter was in my 63 VW bug. Seems odd a starter would fail so early, but anything is possible! **** is made to break (planned obsolescence), keeps the revenue streaming!!!

Go to a salvage yard...most of them have used batteries. You can at least get a battery thats probably good (and a heck of alot cheaper) and try it out before replacing the starter. Just a thought.

Yeah don't pay $200 bucks for that battery. You can go just about anywhere & get a cheaper one than that. Hell the factory Mopar Battery is probably a few bucks cheaper than that. Wal Mart Battery's are built by some name brand vendor but don't recall who off the top of my head.

68PowerWagon said:

Yeah don't pay $200 bucks for that battery. You can go just about anywhere & get a cheaper one than that. Hell the factory Mopar Battery is probably a few bucks cheaper than that. Wal Mart Battery's are built by some name brand vendor but don't recall who off the top of my head.

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I would like to know where you found a cheaper price because when I had to change mine it cost me $180.

Here is a little update.
Went to Oreilly's, same test same outcome. 305 amps from starter failed.
Went to Pep Boys, Different type tool 310 amps bad starter.

Hmm... Oreilly was cheaper bought starter. Changed starter. First couple of starts didn't sound right then started fine.
Brought old starter to Oreilly. Checked out good but then again there was no load.
get in truck push button, it attempts to start fails reattempted to start started. service shift selector and service 4x4 come up on screen.
Get Oreilly to pull code. Only code it pulls up is P1DD2 and trans light is on.
Any ideas?

reb0957 said:

Here is a little update.
Went to Oreilly's, same test same outcome. 305 amps from starter failed.
Went to Pep Boys, Different type tool 310 amps bad starter.

Hmm... Oreilly was cheaper bought starter. Changed starter. First couple of starts didn't sound right then started fine.
Brought old starter to Oreilly. Checked out good but then again there was no load.
get in truck push button, it attempts to start fails reattempted to start started. service shift selector and service 4x4 come up on screen.
Get Oreilly to pull code. Only code it pulls up is P1DD2 and trans light is on.
Any ideas?

Click to expand...

Unplug the battery for a few minutes?

Dangulo said:

Unplug the battery for a few minutes?

Click to expand...

It has been unplugged at every store and was unplugged installing the starter

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Well, I woke up Sunday morning and go! Dead Freaking Battery. Changed the damn battery and all was good with the world.
3 different places with the battery in and out the truck it tested good 6 different times.
So far, no trouble and the service shifter stopped popping up!
UGHHH!

A bad cell can test fine sometimes and be complete garbage the next minute. Glad you got it fixed, but the batteries in these rigs are picky.

That $199 battery at Autozone comes with a 3 year free replacement AND 3 year pro-rated after that, not bad. Just went thru this with my 2016, battery bad after just 18 months....

reb0957 said:

Here is a little update.
Went to Oreilly's, same test same outcome. 305 amps from starter failed.
Went to Pep Boys, Different type tool 310 amps bad starter.

Hmm... Oreilly was cheaper bought starter. Changed starter. First couple of starts didn't sound right then started fine.
Brought old starter to Oreilly. Checked out good but then again there was no load.
get in truck push button, it attempts to start fails reattempted to start started. service shift selector and service 4x4 come up on screen.
Get Oreilly to pull code. Only code it pulls up is P1DD2 and trans light is on.
Any ideas?

Click to expand...

P1DD2 is Torque Request Signal Denied. It's a result of a bad camshaft position sensor. OEM part# is 5149054AC. The rest of the lights are a result of the systems this sensor's signals effect down the line. The part is $18+/- and takes 15 mins to change. If you plan on doing your own maint., I'd highly recommend spending the $20 on AlldataDIY for the yearly subscription. It's a godsend when working/troubleshooting these trucks.

Here is some info on the sensor:

The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) (2) is located below the generator on the timing chain / case cover (1) on the right/front side of engine.

The CMP sensor is used in conjunction with the crankshaft position sensor to differentiate between fuel injection and spark events. It is also used to synchronize the fuel injectors with their respective cylinders. The sensor generates electrical pulses. These pulses (signals) are sent to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM will then determine crankshaft position from both the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor.

The tonewheel is located at the front of the camshaft (2). As the tonewheel rotates, notches (3) pass through the sync signal generator.

When the cam gear is rotating, the sensor will detect the notches. Input voltage from the sensor to the PCM will then switch from a low (approximately 0.3 volts) to a high (approximately 5 volts). When the sensor detects a notch has passed, the input voltage switches back low to approximately 0.3 volts.

Unfortunately, Cam/Crank Variation Relearn procedure must be performed using the scan tool anytime there has been a repair/replacement made to a powertrain system, for example: flywheel, valvetrain, camshaft and/or crankshaft sensors or components. This should fall under powertrain warranty. Hope this helps.

reb0957 said:

Thanks I didn't find that in the owners manual

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On my 2014 it's on page 672 under the heading "MANUAL PARK RELEASE"

-K