5w-30 instead of 5w-20??

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Fergeson

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Have been reading that a lot of members are running 5w-30 instead of 5w-20 lately, some with MDS still on and some not... Was wondering what the heavier 5w-30 does for the truck with MDS still on? any problems?
 

SyN

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No issues with the MDS here. Though I Never expected any.

Don't be brainwashed into thinking a 30Wt is a heavy or thick oil! 20wt is just really Thin! Then look at the 16Wt Oils! Resembles H2O!
:big_banana_Dance:

That's All I'm going to Say About That!
Spend a day or 2 reading the Synthetic Oil Thread!
 
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Sir John

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Oh ****....the flood gate has been opened!! :popcorn:
 

jslowell

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Have been reading that a lot of members are running 5w-30 instead of 5w-20 lately, some with MDS still on and some not... Was wondering what the heavier 5w-30 does for the truck with MDS still on? any problems?

I had myoil changed at Sun Devil Auto in Sun City West, AZ. They put 5w30 conventional Valvoline in with a new filter. After a few miles, the check engine light came on. I took it to another garage. They read the code. It would seem that there is a snesor that checks the oil. If the incorrect oil is put in your engine, this sensor will react to it and turn the 'Check Engine' light on. Bazaar. I had never heard of that but Dodge says that it is true.
 

RampantJourneys

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After doing a lot of reading on this subject for my new-to-me Ram 1500, I decided to bring 5W-30 synthetic oil when I took my truck in to have the oil changed at the dealership who allows me to provide my own oil and filter.

What I didn't know, is that there is a "cam phaser" in the 5.7L HEMI which relates to valve timing. Using the improper weight of oil *can potentially* impact it and cause the computer to throw a fault code if you don't use 5W-20.

The dealership also told me I would more than likely be just fine running 5W-30 in it, but they wanted to make sure I was at least aware of the fault code possibility.

I decided to switch to 5W-20 just to be on the safe side. I don't need to be doing anything to actively encourage malfunction indicators lights.

All-in-all, 5W-30 is probably just fine. But 5W-20 is better for this "cam phaser."

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LeesEvoX

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After doing a lot of reading on this subject for my new-to-me Ram 1500, I decided to bring 5W-30 synthetic oil when I took my truck in to have the oil changed at the dealership who allows me to provide my own oil and filter.

What I didn't know, is that there is a "cam phaser" in the 5.7L HEMI which relates to valve timing. Using the improper weight of oil *can potentially* impact it and cause the computer to throw a fault code if you don't use 5W-20.

The dealership also told me I would more than likely be just fine running 5W-30 in it, but they wanted to make sure I was at least aware of the fault code possibility.

I decided to switch to 5W-20 just to be on the safe side. I don't need to be doing anything to actively encourage malfunction indicators lights.

All-in-all, 5W-30 is probably just fine. But 5W-20 is better for this "cam phaser."

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Lol pretty sure FCA told EVERYONE this years. And years ago.

Its complete ******** my friend. Your truck will last longer running on a 5w30 oil.

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Kap1

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I've ran 5-30 redline in my hemi for about a year now and no cel and my engine is probably most sensitive of all. It likes 5-30 and sounds more smooth on it.

In my case, Best thing is that before 5-20 used to disappear or burn and I had to keep adding about 1qt every 3 months, the 5-30 doesn't go anywhere and stays at full mark throughout my 9k oil change interval.
 

Burla

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Kap is back, where you been hiding? Your tick still there? If so give us a number on how it is one to ten compared to before?
 

tidefan1967

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2000 plus miles on Redline 5w30 and not the first CEL, not the first tick and not a drop used. Being that it’s thicker than the machine oil that they recommend I drive it easy for the first mile or so just for peace of mind. If you have any doubts whatsoever run some cheaper 5w30 like PYB 5w30 for like 3K to see for yourself first before stepping up to the big leagues. I am absolutely going to run this for 9000 miles before changing it out.
 

chrisbh17

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Not sure Id go 9K miles right off the bat (even with Redline) but after 5 or 6K Id think about sampling some and sending off for a UOA.

My truck is currently at 7K miles, I will be installing some RedLine in the next couple weeks and will run it at least until the Spring. But at 10K miles I will take a sample and send off for the trucks first UOA. I figure 10K miles is a good baseline for future UOA readings, and it will let me know how much life the RL has left in it at that point.

My miles per year are so low I could technically probably go for yearly changes, but Im interested to see what effect winter has on the oil (short trips, engine doesnt always get up to 200F+, etc)
 

Burla

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90% of my mileage is short trips, when we travel we take the wife's car as it gets twice the mileage and is a comfortable vehicle. Never an issue with moisture in my 3 uoa's. As stated, if there ever was to be an issue, a single long run at operating temps cures it. But I've never even seen an issue in all the uoa's I've seen on it.
 

tidefan1967

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Not sure Id go 9K miles right off the bat (even with Redline) but after 5 or 6K Id think about sampling some and sending off for a UOA.

My truck is currently at 7K miles, I will be installing some RedLine in the next couple weeks and will run it at least until the Spring. But at 10K miles I will take a sample and send off for the trucks first UOA. I figure 10K miles is a good baseline for future UOA readings, and it will let me know how much life the RL has left in it at that point.

My miles per year are so low I could technically probably go for yearly changes, but Im interested to see what effect winter has on the oil (short trips, engine doesnt always get up to 200F+, etc)
I’ve seen quite a few 9K mile UOAs on here(RLKs last at 9557 miles was the kicker) for me not to mention it never really gets cold here, hell its still pushing 90* here in October. Hell I honestly believe you could run the OLM down to zero every time without issue on this stuff.
 

Arth

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I switched to redline 5w-30 about 5k or so ago and I am due to change this week.

I took a video of my engine running and wow it's really quiet. I don't have a video of this engine on 5w-20 but I do of another and the difference is noticeable.
 

chrisbh17

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Thats actually great to hear. It at least leaves me a little leeway if I get lazy.

At least during the normal factory warranty Im not sure I would go yearly (mostly just to get the truck into the dealer so they have a record of doing something to it) but after that Id probably extend the OCIs if I stick with RL.
 

69GWC

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19k on my truck with 5w30 and right now a mix of 10w30 and 5w30.
Plus people have been running 0w40, this to thick of oil is government BS for fuel mileage and they dont care about how long your motor last running that thin ass oil.

Why dont they have you run 5w20 in the 6.4 , or the 5.7 in the 2500s because its to thin to protect it then you have the Eco diesels blowing up running to thin of oil and FCAs fix is yeap thicker oil.
 

Burla

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I switched to redline 5w-30 about 5k or so ago and I am due to change this week.

I took a video of my engine running and wow it's really quiet. I don't have a video of this engine on 5w-20 but I do of another and the difference is noticeable.

Thanks for letting us know, we have lost so many testimonials that would be very helpful for guys considering running the ester/pao stuff. I think we are way past "if" redline works, the facts are the only group that is questionable is guys that change with high mileage vehicles, but even those guys have good numbers of success. When you use science to make a choice on what oil you run, funny how that **** works out for ya?
 
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